DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 141-40
DROPS design: Pattern no u-671
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm /
31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm /
21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 64, gray purple

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2.5 - for garter st and rib.

DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTON NO 534: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K sts on all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside A.4/A.6. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before A.6: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after A.4: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

BUTTONHOLES:
Bind off for buttonholes on right band.
1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 16, 22 and 28 cm /
6¼", 8¾" and 11"
SIZE M: 16, 23 and 29 cm /
6¼", 9" and 11 3/8"
SIZE L: 17, 23 and 30 cm /
6¾", 9" and 11¾"
SIZE XL: 18, 24 and 31 cm /
7", 9½" and 12¼"
SIZE XXL: 18, 25 and 32 cm /
7", 9¾" and 12½"
SIZE XXXL: 19, 26 and 33 cm /
7½", 10¼" and 13"
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 86-94-102-114-126-138 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Karisma. K 10 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above.
Work next row as follows (from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, K 25-29-33-39-45-51, K 34 sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 8 sts evenly over these sts, K 25-29-33-39-45-51 and 1 edge st in garter st = 94-102-110-122-134-146 sts.
Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6, work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, P 25-29-33-39-45-51, A.1 (= 42 sts), P 25-29-33-39-45-51 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue with A.1 and in stockinette st over 25-29-33-39-45-51 sts and 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec 1 st in each side, repeat dec every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' 3 more times = 86-94-102-114-126-138 sts.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with A.2 over sts in A.1.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm / 8'', inc 1 st in each side, repeat inc every 5-5½-5½-6-6½-6½ cm / 2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/8"-2½"-2½" 3 more times = 94-102-110-122-134-146 sts.
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', bind off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-4-5-6-8 times and 1 st 2-3-4-4-7-8 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts.
When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'', dec 8 sts evenly over the middle 42 sts = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts.
On next row from RS work as follows: 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts in stockinette st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* over the next 48 sts, P 2, 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts in stockinette st.
When piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm / 20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8'', bind off the middle 34 sts = 17-18-19-20-21-22 sts remain on each shoulder.
Finish each shoulder separately.
Continue with 9-10-11-12-13-14 sts in stockinette st, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 1 and 1 st in garter st towards the neck, bind off with K over K and P over P when piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 49-53-57-63-69-75 sts (includes 1 edge st in the side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Karisma.
Work as follows – from RS: A.3 (= 14 sts), work in garter st over the last 35-39-43-49-55-61 sts.
Continue this pattern until A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically = 51-55-59-65-71-77 sts.
Switch to needles size 4 mm / US 6. Now work as follows from RS: A.4 (= 16 sts), stockinette st over the last 34-38-42-48-54-60 sts, 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue this pattern upwards, when piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec in the side as on back piece = 47-51-55-61-67-73 sts.
When piece measures 16-16-17-18-18-19 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7"-7½", beg bind off for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
When piece measures 20 cm / 8'', inc in the side as on back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8'', dec 1 st towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every cm / ½'' 22 more times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', bind off and dec for armhole in the side as on back piece.
After all bind offs dec for armhole and neck are done, there are 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts on needle.
When piece measures approx. 53-55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½'', dec 2 sts evenly over the cable in A.4 = 17-18-19-20-21-22 sts remain on needle.
On next row bind off with K over K and P over P.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Instead of A.3 and A.4 work A.5 and A.6. Do not bind off for buttonholes.

ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Pick up 90-94-98-102-106-110 sts on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 along the armhole. K 1 row from WS, then work rib K 2/P 2 with 1 edge st in each side.
Continue until sleeve edge measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

POCKET:
Cast on 16 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Karisma. Work according to A.6, bind off when piece measures 11 cm / 4½". Pick up approx. 23 sts inside last P st from A.6.
Work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
Bind off when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' in total. Knit another pocket. Sew pockets on to the middle of front pieces, directly above the ridges in garter st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, P 1 from cable needle
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (56)

country flag Céspedes wrote:

Apres avoir tricoter A.1 et A.2, dois ke continuar avec A.2?

05.11.2023 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Céspedes, tout à fait, quand A.1 est terminé, vous tricotez A.2 et vous répétez A.2 en hauteur jusqu'à la fin. Bon tricot!

06.11.2023 - 08:45

country flag Lillan I Bradley wrote:

Hello, I have received an email answer from you to my last question regarding pattern 141-40. Unfortunately, I did NOT understand what I was told i.e., "garter" stich & "stocking" stich, etc. The patterns A3 through A6 refer to KNIT/PURL stitches on right side and wrong side. Would you be so kind and read my question again and, hopefully,, I'll receive a different answer. Thank you very much!

22.06.2023 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bradley, I'm sorry, I might have misunderstood your question then; A.5 and A.6 is just a mirrored pattern from A.3 and A.4; work the stitches the same way as explained in the diagram key: the white squares are knitted from RS and purled from WS and the dots are purled from RS and knitted from WS. If it doesn't help, please try to reword your question as it is misunderstood. Thanks for your comprehension.

23.06.2023 - 07:42

country flag Lillan wrote:

Hello, the store in California where I used to buy your yarn and ask questions when needed, has closed down:( I now order yarn from Woolwarehouse in UK. Since they knit differently, I have to ask your web site again: Drops 141-40 Sarah's Delight; LEFT SIDE Pattern A.5, after knitting the pattern from right side, the last two stiches 13 &14 then show two KNIT sts rather than ONE knit & one purl like in the right front piece??? Thank you very much for your response :) Lillan

22.06.2023 - 00:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lillan, the 13rd stitch in A.5/A.6 is a stocking stitch and the last stitch is worked in garter stitch; as the 1st stitch in A..3 was worked in garter stitch and the 2nd stitch in A.3 was a stocking stitch. This 14th/1st stitch is knitted from RS and knitted from WS.Can this help or did I misunderstand your question?

22.06.2023 - 10:07

country flag Lillan Bradley wrote:

After reading all the English answers re: right front piece with cable, I am still not understanding the following: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 33cm (XL) dec 1 stitch TOWARDS MID FRONT??? repeat decrease every cm 22 more times. Also: READ DECREASE TIP: Dec as follows AFTER A4.....??? Hope this makes sense and thanks for your reply. Lillan

12.06.2023 - 03:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bradley, when piece measures 33 cm you will start decreasing for neck, on right front piece you will decrease after A.4 (as explained under decrease tip), ie work the A.4 stitches, then slip 1 as if to K, K1 and psso. Repeat this decrease 22 more times on every 1 cm (decrease from RS only). Happy knitting!

12.06.2023 - 09:12

country flag Barbara wrote:

Pattern 140-141. On the right front how many stitches should remain after decreasing on the front. I have to work 43 rows (22 times) if decreasing one stitch every half inch on right side only. I need to know how many stitches before I start the armhole bind off.

12.07.2022 - 08:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, after the decreases on back piece, there are 47-51-55-61-67-73 sts, then after cast off/decreases for armhole and neck , there are 19-20-21-22-23-24 sts left and before casting off, there are 17-18-19-20-21-22 sts left. Happy knitting!

12.07.2022 - 09:02

country flag Barbara wrote:

Pattern number 141-40 Sarah's delight vest The decrease for armhole on the back is causing some problems for me. The pattern says to decrease 3sts on the next two rows=6sts. 2sts six times=12 and 1sts x7 =7sts. A total of 25 stitches are decreased. I am doing the XXL and need to end up 84 its. Please help.

05.07.2022 - 22:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Barbara, You have 110 stitches before starting the armholes. You cast off on both sides: 3 stitches x 1 = 6, 2 sts x 4 = 16 and 1 st x 4 = 8. You have then cast off a total of 30 sts which leaves you with 80 sts. Happy knitting!

06.07.2022 - 06:57

country flag Barbara wrote:

I have completed the back of pattern u-671 up to row 79. My question is do I now complete A3 It is hard to see from the photograph as the model has long hair which obscures the view of the upper back. I am anxious to complete this project so an early replay would be appreciated.

04.07.2022 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, when you have worked the whole diagram A.1, work now A.2 and repeat A.2 over A.1 (as shown in diagram = the 3 cables over 6 sts). Happy knitting!

04.07.2022 - 16:22

country flag Monica Ahlin wrote:

När man stickat bakstycket med diagram A1s alla varv, skall man sedan sticka diagram A2 6 varv och sedan upprepa dessa 6 varv hela vägen upp?

30.03.2022 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Monica. Ja det stämmer. Mvh DROPS Design

31.03.2022 - 08:09

country flag Brandi wrote:

Hello again. Earlier I had asked for help on the back piece for size xl. This was your answer: Dear Brandi, for size XL, you should cast off on BOTH SIDES 3 stitches 2 times = 6, 2 stitches 5 times = 10, and 1 stitch 4 times = 4, 6+10+4 = 10 stitches x 2 = so you cast off 20 stitch all together. 122-20= 82 stitch is the number of stitches you should end up with. Happy Stitching! The problem here is that 122-20 does not equal 82 it equals 102. Still needing help with the numbers. Thanks

04.08.2021 - 07:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Brandi, it looks like there was a small mistake in the previous answer, you will decrease 20 sts on each side (= 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 5 times and 1 st 4 times), ie 40 sts in total = 102-40=82 sts remain. Happy knitting!

04.08.2021 - 07:59

country flag Brandi wrote:

Currently working the back piece decreases for the armholes. When looking at the stitch counts for size xl it says I will start with 122 sts and end with 82 sts. When I counted the decreases it didn’t add up correctly. I’m sure I’m missing something. Please advise. Thank you

03.08.2021 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Brandi, for size XL, you should cast off on BOTH SIDES 3 stitches 2 times = 6, 2 stitches 5 times = 10, and 1 stitch 4 times = 4, 6+10+4 = 10 stitches x 2 = so you cast off 20 stitch all together. 122-20= 82 stitch is the number of stitches you should end up with. Happy Stitching!

04.08.2021 - 04:44