DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Seaman

Knitted men's jumper in DROPS Alaska or DROPS Big Merino with pattern and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-812
DROPS design: Pattern no X-382
Yarn group C
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Size: XS/S - M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
Colour no 49, light brown:
650-750-800-900-950 g
Colour no 02, off white:
200-200-200-250-250 g

Or use:
DROPS Big Merino from Garnstudio
Colour no 05, mocca
650-750-800-900-950 g
Colour no 01, off white
200-200-200-250-250 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.30£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 to M.3 – diagrams are worked in stocking st.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 171-201-231-258-288 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with light brown Alaska. Work rib = K 1/P 2 for 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 27-33-39-42-48 sts evenly = 144-168-192-216-240 sts. Then work diagram M.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures approx. 25-27-30-33-35 cm - adjust so that at least 2 rounds have been worked after 1 round with dots - work diagram M.2. After diagram M.2, work 3 rounds with light brown before working 23 rounds with diagram M.1. After diagram M.1, work diagram M.3, then work with light brown until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-49-50-52-53 cm, work next round as follows: Cast off 3-4-4-5-5 sts for armhole, work 22-27-32-37-42 sts, cast off 23-23-25-25-27 sts for neck, work 22-27-32-37-42 sts, cast off 5-7-7-9-9 sts for armhole, work 67-77-89-99-111 sts (= back piece), cast off the last 2-3-3-4-4 sts for armhole. Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 67-77-89-99-111 sts. Continue pattern as explained above. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 0-2-3-3-3 times = 67-69-73-79-81 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 66-68-71-74-76 cm, cast off the middle 21-21-23-23-25 sts for neck. Now finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 22-23-24-27-27 sts remain on the shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-73-76-78 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 22-27-32-37-42 sts. Cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 22-23-24-27-27 sts. Cast off when piece measures approx. 68-70-73-76-78 cm - NOTE: Cast off on same row in pattern as on back piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Cast on 51-54-57-57-57 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with light brown. Work rib = K 1/P 2 for 5 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-11-12-12-12 sts evenly = 41-43-45-45-45 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and a marker in the middle st on round (= mid on top of sleeve). Then work diagram M.1 – st marked with arrow in diagram should be st with marker mid on top of sleeve - count out towards the side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-7-9-9-10 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 5-4½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 10-11-14-16-18 times = 61-65-73-77-81 sts – work the inc sts in pattern. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 47 cm in all sizes – adjust so that at least 2 rounds have been worked after 1 round with dots - work diagram M.2 until finished measurements (st marked with arrow in diagram should be st with marker mid on top of sleeve - count out towards the side). When piece measures 56-54-52-50-48 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width), cast off 5-7-7-9-9 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. st with marker and 2-3-3-4-4 sts on each side of this st). Then continue back and forth on needle until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 2-3-3-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 61 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 62 cm in all sizes.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SHAWL COLLAR:
Start mid front on the left side of sts cast off for neck. Knit up on circular needle size 4 mm with light brown: 34 to 42 sts up to shoulder, then knit up 24 to 28 sts in back of neck and finally 34 to 42 sts down along left side of neck dec = 92 to 112 sts. (Do not knit up sts at the front of neck where sts were cast off.)
K 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 123-129-138-144-150 sts. Then work rib as follows (from RS): 1 edge st which is worked K on all rows, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st which is worked K on all rows. Continue rib like this until collar measures approx. 6 cm. Now inc 1 st in each of the middle 12 K-sections, seen from RS (= back of neck) = 135-141-150-156-162 sts. Continue to work until collar measures approx. 11-11-13-13-15 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P. Place the collar double (right side over left side) at the bottom of neck opening and sew it to the neck line through both layers.
Sew in sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = light brown
symbols = off white
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Deborah wrote:

In binding off the sleeve cap (xxxl size). "AT THE SAME TIME bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of every row in each side: 2 sts 2-3-3-4 times. " Is this a TOTAL of 4 rows or is it a two row repeat and therefore a total of 8 rows?

14.11.2023 - 05:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Deborah, Each bind off is worked on both sides before moving on to the next one. So, as you say, a total of 8 rows. Happy knitting!

14.11.2023 - 06:30

country flag Cathy Browning wrote:

Regarding armhole bind off. On the initial row I am binding off I am ending with 3 bind off stitches. That leaves me bound off if the middle of armhole. How do I then start to work the back if I am still half way in the middle of armhole?

18.01.2022 - 02:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Cathy, Cut and fasten the strand, then begin on the back piece. Happy knitting!

18.01.2022 - 08:10

country flag Cathy wrote:

I should have been more clear on my question. My question relates to the pattern at neck area. Not sure when to stop and start the chart with a crew neck jumper. I will try to find one with a pattern and a crew neck and attempt to follow those instructions. Thank you so much for getting back to me previously :)

26.12.2021 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathy, you need to skip the separation for the neck in the front and continue working until 8 cm remain in the front before reaching the final measurements, which is when the round neck would begin. Happy knitting!

31.12.2021 - 19:50

country flag Cathy Browning wrote:

Is there a way to change the collar of this jumper to crew neck instead of shawl while maintaining the pattern?

22.12.2021 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cathy, in that case, you shouldn't bind off for the neck in the front; you should continue working over these stitches. Then you would need to make the necessary changes to make a round neck; you can see such jumpers in the Men's jumper section. Happy knitting!

25.12.2021 - 19:27

country flag Zsuzsa wrote:

Thanks so much for the additional descriptions in the comments, it helped me a lot. Just a side note: I had also more than one remaining yarn ball. And I knitted the L/XL size, and the sleeve was too long for my boyfriend, so I had to cut about ~10 cm.

13.06.2021 - 17:14

country flag Sandra wrote:

Begrijp niet helemaal welke naalden waarvoor nodig zijn... Mouwboord, rondbreinaald 4 mm, welke lengte moet dit zijn? Rest van de mouw, 5 mm, wanneer gebruik je naalden zonder knop en wanneer rondbreinaald? En hoe lang is die rondbreinaald voor de mouw dan? Waar zijn breinaalden zonder kop, 4 mm dan voor bedoeld?

29.09.2020 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sandra,

Voor de boordsteek heb je 4 mm nodig en voor tricotsteek heb je 5 mm nodig. Zelf gebruik ik altijd een rondbreinaald, zowel voor de mouw als voor de panden, maar je kunt ook sokkenbreinaalden (naalden zonder knop) nemen, zodat je met 4 naalden de mouwen kunt breien. Het is maar net wat je zelf het handigst vindt.

10.10.2020 - 11:39

country flag Anne Maurer wrote:

Wird beim Modell seaman M1 39cm gestrickt oder beinhalten diese 30cm das Bündchen?

01.08.2019 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, die 30 cm beinhalten das Bündchen, es werden also 30 cm ab dem Anschlag gemessen. Die Maßangaben beziehen sich in der Regel auf die Gesamtlänge. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken! :-)

02.08.2019 - 09:22

country flag Gisele wrote:

Is there a tutorial on how to start knitting this shawl collar?

11.01.2019 - 04:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gisele, there is no tutorial to this shawl, start picking the sts on the right side of front piece (beg on the bottom of neckline, just after the last st cast off for neck mid on front piece), then pick up the sts along neck on back piece and down along the left side of front piece to the first st cast off for neck on mid front. Work then back and forth in rib, increasing in the P- sections (see previous answers). Happy knitting!

11.01.2019 - 09:40

country flag Gisele wrote:

Am I increasing 12 sts in each of the back 12 sts at the back of the neck?

10.01.2019 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gisele, you are increasing a total of 12 sts = 1 stitch in each of the middle 12 purl-sections on mid back of the neck. Happy knitting!

11.01.2019 - 09:11

country flag Gisele wrote:

My only her question is to clarify the “increase 1 sts in each of the middle 12 k sections”. Can you please explain more how to do that. Thank you!

10.01.2019 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gisele, to make the collar wider on the back on neck, you will increase 1 stitch in each of the 12 P2-sections on mid back on collar and will then work as before K1, P2 over the first and last sts and P3 in the middle 12 purl sections of the rib. This video shows how to increase a stitch in a Purl-section. Happy knnitting!

11.01.2019 - 09:09