DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 6.60 $ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Ice Princess

Knitted DROPS head band and shoulder warmer with cables and rib in ”Andes” or ”Snow”.

DROPS 134-24
DROPS design: Pattern no EE-377
Yarn group E
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Size: One-size

Materials: DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
Color no 6295, denim blue:
SHOULDER WARMER: 400 g
HEAD BAND: 100 g

SHOULDER WARMER:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 8 mm/US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm/US 10½ – for rib.

HEAD BAND:
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 6 mm / US 10 - or size needed to get 13 sts x 17 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Andes
DROPS Andes
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 6.60 $ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 for shoulder warmer and diagram M.2 for head band. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS and 1 repetition of pattern.

DECREASE TIP (applies to shoulder warmer):
Dec on each side of P 3, K 2, P 3.
Dec as follows BEFORE P 3: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows AFTER P 3: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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SHOULDER WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.
Cast on 162 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ with Andes. Work as follows (round beg in one side): K 1, * P 3, K 2 *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times (i.e. over 30 sts), P 3, K 5, P 3, K 5, repeat from *-* 13 times (i.e. over 65 sts), P 3, K 5, P 3, K 5, repeat from *-* 6 times (= 30 sts), P 3, K 1. Continue like this for 6 rounds.
Work next round as follows: ** 11 sts in stockinette st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 12 sts in stockinette st, P 3, * K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times, K 1, P 3, repeat from *-* 4 times, K 1, P 3, 12 sts in stockinette st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 11 sts in stockinette st **, all sts on front piece have been worked, repeat from **-** on back piece = 178 sts. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11.
Work next round K over K and P over P - K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Continue to work as follows: ** 11 sts in stockinette st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 12 sts in stockinette st, P 3, diagram M.1, P 3, diagram M.1, P 3, 12 sts in stockinette st, P 3, K 2, P 3, 11 sts in stockinette st **, repeat from **-** 1 more time.
Continue like this upwards. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 15 cm / 6'', dec 1 st on each side of all (P 3, K 2, P 3) - SEE DECREASE TIP = 8 sts dec. Repeat dec every 3rd round a total of 10 times = 98 sts. When piece measures 35 cm / 13 3/4'', switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½. Then continue as before until piece measures 45 cm / 17 3/4''.
Bind off with K over K and P over P.

HEAD BAND:
Worked sideways back and forth on needle.
Cast on 19 sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Andes. Work diagram M.2 until piece measures approx. 48 cm / 19'' - finish after 1 whole repetition. Bind off and sew head band tog edge to edge mid back to avoid a chunky seam.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.02.2012
New chart M.2 has been published

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K on RS, P on WS
symbols = P on RS, K on WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (77)

country flag Florence LARIVIERE wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse, mais dans ce catalogue, il y a un seul pull en Andes et il est fait avec des aiguilles 10 et non 8 comme le modèle que je voudrais faire... Dommage

15.03.2023 - 16:44

country flag Florence wrote:

Bonjour, Quelles sont les mesures de ce chauffe-épaules lorsqu'il est fini ? Il manque le schéma qui est donné d'habitude... Merci pour votre aide

14.03.2023 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, il n'y a effectivement pas de schéma pour ce modèle, si vous hésitez pour trouver votre taille, vous pouvez vous inspirer du schéma des mesures d'un gilet ou d'une veste du même catalogue. Bon tricot!

15.03.2023 - 09:53

country flag Valentina wrote:

Volevo sapere dopo i primi 6 ferri per cambiare la lavorazione per fare gli altri 13 ferri devo lavorare le maglie come si presentano oppure lavorare i rovesci che mi dice anche sui diritti?

30.12.2021 - 19:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina, dopo aver lavorato i primi 6 giri, deve lavorare il giro successivo come indicato. Buon lavoro!

30.12.2021 - 22:07

country flag Tiziana wrote:

Buona sera...sto facendo le diminuzioni 1 m ogni lato come descritto sulle informazioni delle diminuzioni quindi 8 maglie ogni 3 ferri ma negli ultimi 2 ferri delle diminuzioni devo diminuire nelle maglie dello schema 3 rovesci 2 dritto e 3 rovesci? ..perché non ho più maglie a dritto tra questo schema .. grazie

22.01.2021 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Tiziana, provi a ricontare bene le maglie perchè dovrebbero esserci 11 o 12 maglie a maglia rasata ai lati del motivo "3 rovesci, 2 diritti, 3 rovesci" e le diminuzioni vanno lavorate in totale 10 volte. Buon lavoro!

22.01.2021 - 22:14

country flag Martine Verreault wrote:

Je ne trouve pas la laine andes pourriez pourriez-vous s me donner une autre laine semblable merci

12.01.2021 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Verreault, vous trouverez DROPS Andes ici, cliquez sur l'icône verte avec le caddy pour afficher la liste des magasins qui la proposent - utilisez le convertisseur pour voir les alternatives possibles et les quantités correspondantes. Bon tricot!

12.01.2021 - 09:15

country flag Michaëla Camarroque wrote:

Bonsoir, Combien de mailles doit on monter? 162 ou 178??? Les explications ne sont pas claires du tout, les*** sont mal positionnés, ou alors c'est moi qui ne comprends rien. Pouvez vous m'éclairer?

08.10.2020 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Camarroque, vous montez 162 m et tricotez ainsi: 1 m end, *3 m env, 2 m end*, répéter de *-* 6 fois au total (c'est-à-dire sur les 30 m suiv), 3 m env, 5 m end, 3 m env, 5 m end, répéter de *-* 13 fois (c'est-à-dire tricotez les 65 m suiv en côtes 3 m env, 2 m end ), 3 m env, 5 m end, 3 m env, 5 m end, répéter de *-* 6 fois (= tricotez les 30 m suiv en côtes 3 m env, 2 m end), 3 m env, 1 m end = 1+30+3+5+3+5+65+3+5+3+5+30+3+1=162 m. Bon tricot!

09.10.2020 - 07:42

country flag Gourmelen wrote:

Pour faire les torsades on fait bien M1 sur les 89mailles du devant mais si on repete M1 une fois sur les 89 mailles du dos la torsade se trouve aussi dans le dos ou alors je suis le shema sans faire de torsade sur les 89 mailles du dos merci de m aider

03.10.2019 - 08:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjoru Mme Gourmelen, vous répétez les 89 mailles telles qu'elles sont décrites pour le dos et le devant, vous aurez ainsi au milieu devant et au milieu dos: M.1, 3 m env, M.1, le devant et le dos sont identiques. Bon tricot!

03.10.2019 - 09:44

country flag Gourmeln wrote:

Bonjour au moment de faire les 11 mailles je suis un peu perdu je n obtiens que 88 mailles je fais bien 2 fois à la suite 11m 3menv 2 m en 3 env 12 en jersey 3 env puis 2 fois a la suite 1 endroit 1 jeté et aprés je ne sais pas ce que je dois répéter 4 fois merci de bien vouloir m aider car je suis novice dans le tricotet m indiquer que représente **les 2 etoiles et*-* et une etoile un trait et une étoile merci modele chauffe épaule drops 134 24

21.09.2019 - 08:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gourmeln, vous devez répéter 4 fois la partie entre les *, autrement dit 4 fois 1 m end, 1 jeté, vous aurez donc: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté,, puis vous tricotez jusqu'au symbole ** = vous avez tricoté la moitié des mailles, reprenez toute la séquence à partir du premier ** jusqu'au 2ème ** sur les mailles restantes. Bon tricot!

23.09.2019 - 08:32

country flag Laura wrote:

Buona sera, nei 15 cm calcolo anche i primi sei ferri? Grazid

09.03.2019 - 22:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì, nei 15 cm sono compresi i primi 6 ferri. Buon lavoro!

09.03.2019 - 23:40

country flag Laura wrote:

Scusate un dubbio ma lo scalda spalle va lavorato in tondo con i circolari? Se si quando inizio a lavorare il diagramma M1 nel giro di ritorno devo lavorare le maglie come si presentano e poi continuare a seguire lo schema e quindi iniziare la treccia al settimo giro? Spero di essermi spiegata bene.

08.03.2019 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno, lo scaldaspalle è lavorato in tondo dal basso verso l'alto, in tondo. Il diagramma si legge quindi dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra su tutti i giri e sono riportati tutti i giri, per cui le trecce saranno sul 4° e 10°giro. Buon lavoro!

08.03.2019 - 11:32