DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 127-38
DROPS design: Pattern no Z-551
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-80-88-98-110-122 cm /
28½-31½"-34½"-38½"-43½"-48"
Full length: 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm /
7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 3112, powder pink:
200-200-200-250-250-250 g
And use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
Color no 03, light pink:
75-75-75-100-100-100 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 19 sts x 38 rows in garter st with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 – for round piece.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.7. The diagram shows the pattern from RS.
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BACK PIECE:
The entire back piece is worked in Garter st, i.e. K all rows.
Cast on 70-78-86-96-106-118 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Work back and forth with 1 edge st in each side.
When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. Continue to bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-3-5-5-7 times and 1 st 1-2-1-1-1-2 times = 60-62-64-66-70-72 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''. Work next row from RS as follows:
Work 30-31-32-33-35-36 sts. Insert a marker, this is now the beg of the round (= mid back of neck) and measures the piece from here.

ROUND PIECE:
See Fig. 1 (X = beg of round). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work the next 30-31-32-33-35-36 sts, while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-6-6 sts evenly = 34-36-37-39-41-42 sts. Then cast on 37-41-42-45-47-47 new sts for armhole edge. Then knit up 5 sts inside the edge st along the side of back piece (2 cm / 3/4'') before the armhole. Then knit up inside 1 st 79-89-96-108-122-131 sts along the cast on edge on back piece (i.e. inc 11-13-12-14-18-15 sts evenly while AT THE SAME TIME knitting up sts, by working 2 sts in 1 st). Then knit up 5 sts inside the edge st along the other side of back piece (2 cm / 3/4'') before the armhole. Then cast on 37-41-42-45-47-47 new sts for armhole edge before working over the last 30-31-32-33-35-36 sts while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-5-5-6-6-6 sts evenly over these sts.
Now there are 231-253-264-286-308-319 sts on needle.
Now work diagram M.1 (= 11 sts) in the round over all sts. When round piece measures 6 cm / 2½'', work M.2 over all sts. When M.2 has been worked 1 time vertically (= 273-299-312-338-364-377 sts), work M.3 (= 13 sts). When round piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm / 4¾''-5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼''-6¾'', work M.4 over all sts. When M.4 has been worked 1 time vertically (= 315-345-360-390-420-435 sts), work M.5 (= 15 sts). When round piece measures 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm / 7''-8''-8¾''-9½''-10¼''-11'', work M.6. When M.6 has been worked 1 time vertically (= 357-391-408-442-476-493 sts), work M.7 (= 17 sts). Continue with M.7 until round piece measures approx. 20-22-24-27-30-33 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 5/8"-11 3/4"-13". Bind off LOOSELY.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Valerie wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprends pas bien comment on passe de M1 à M2 de M3 à M4 etc.. on augmente de deux mailles ? Combien de centimètres de chaque M faut il tricoter ? Merci

25.06.2022 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, vous augmentez effectivement le nombre de mailles dans chaque motif quand vous tricotez M.2, M.4, ou M.6 et vous tricotez les autres diagrammes plusieurs fois en hauteur: 6 cm de M.1, puis 1 x M.2, puis vous tricotez M.3 jusqu'à 12-17 cm de hauteur totale de bordure, puis 1 x M.4, puis vous répétez M.5 jusqu'à ce quel a bordure mesure 18-28 cm, tricotez 1 x M.6 et terminez en répétant M.7. et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

27.06.2022 - 08:15

country flag Kelly wrote:

Can you explain how to start the round piece starting with ‘knit up 5 sets inside the edge st along the cast on edge on back piece 2 cm before the armhole’. And then the rest of the round piece. Even a diagram would be helpful. Thank you.

26.01.2022 - 02:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kelly, you have to pick up these stitches along the 2 cm worked at the bottom of back piece - see chart and Fig.1 below pattern - the dotted line in Fig.1 are the 37-41-42-45-47-47 stitches cast on for armhole. Hope it will help. Happy knitting!

26.01.2022 - 09:06

DC wrote:

Knitted vest & love the result. Added short sleeves to suit my figure type. For the second vest, i cast on provisionally with waste yarn so that i pick up the 'live' stitches later & to allow the invisible 'seam' to be more stretchable. As our figure is different, i redistribute the stitches for more fullness in the front and less flare on the back bodice. I will probably do a third as a present as this is a project you can work on while watching tv. Many thanks for the instructions.

16.12.2013 - 02:13

country flag Suruchi wrote:

Hi This is suruchi iwanted to know can I use cotton yarn for this pattern.Let me know thanks

30.07.2013 - 02:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Suruchi, you will find list of alternative qualities under tab "alternative" but do not forget that using other qualities with other characteristics may give another effect. Do not hesitate to contact your DROPS Store for any help. Happy knitting!

30.07.2013 - 10:04

country flag Siri wrote:

Er det korrekt at det skal være to pinner med vrang i hver mønsterrapport? Jeg synes det blir seende litt rart ut...

11.04.2013 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Siri. Ja, det er helt korrekt.

11.04.2013 - 10:32

country flag Siri wrote:

På en oppskrift som denne — der dere heller ikke oppgir noen str.fasthet på mønsteret (og takk for det, forsåvidt) — hadde det da absolutt vært å foretrekke om dere heller hadde oppgitt antall ganger hvert mønster skulle strikkes i de ulike størrelsene i stedet for cm. Det hadde da også blitt langt mer nøyaktig da hvert mønster neppe er akkurat 1 cm. Antakelig enklere å skrive, også.

11.04.2013 - 06:12

country flag Irene wrote:

In der Anleitung:Am Anfang 70M anschl., dann nach 2 cm auf beiden Seiten je 4 M. abk.(Es bleibt dann nur 62 M). am Anfang jeder R. für das Armloch abk.: 0-0-0-0-1-1 x 3 M., 0-1-3-5-5-7 x 2 M. und 1-2-1-1-1-2 x 1 M. = 60M. Genau das verstehe ich nicht. Ich komme davon aus, dass die 1.Reihe für die größe S dargestellt(oder wird was anderes damit gemeint), aber dann muss insgesammt 12 M abkürzen. Wie komme ich auf die 60 M.

18.02.2013 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Irene, für Größe S gilt jeweils die erste Ziffer, also in diesem Fall 0 x 3 M, 0 x 2 M und 1 x 1 M. Es wird somit bei Größe S nur1 x an beiden Seite 1 m abgekettet. 62 M minus 2 M = 60 M.

19.02.2013 - 09:27

country flag Irene Mascharuf wrote:

Hallo zusammen, ich bin dabei diese Weste zu stricken, aber ich habe ein Problem eine chema zu lesen und zwar die Abkürzung für das Armloch. Wenn Sie mir dabei helfen können, werde ich sehr dankbar. Gruß, Irene

17.02.2013 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Irene, was meinen Sie mit „Abkürzung für das Armloch“?

18.02.2013 - 09:46

country flag Maria wrote:

Hola , me he enamorado de este bolero.Podríais traducirlo al castellano? Muchas gracias.

01.04.2011 - 20:08

country flag Maria wrote:

Por favor, me he enamorado de este bolero.Podríais traducirlo al castellano? Muchas gracias

01.04.2011 - 20:07