DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 123-24
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-019
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Size:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes color no 3112, powder pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 14 sc x 20 rounds = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS LIGHT WOODEN BUTTON NO 501: 4 pcs for all sizes.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on round/row with ch 1. Replace first dc on round/row with ch 3. Finish each round/row with 1 sl st in 1st/3rd ch from beg of round, (in 1st/3rd ch from beg of previous row when working back and forth).

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2.
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FOOT:
Beg with the toe. Crochet with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Nepal.
ROUND 1: Ch 3 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 2: 5-5-6 sc in ring – See CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 10-10-12 sc.
ROUND 4: *1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc*, repeat from *-* to end = 15-15-18 sc.
ROUND 5-7: 1 sc in each sc.
ROUND 8: *1 sc in first sc, 1 sc in 2nd sc and 2 sc in 3rd sc*, repeat from *-* to end = 20-20-24 sc.
ROUND 9: *1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, and 2 sc in 4th sc*, repeat from *-* to end = 25-25-30 sc.
ROUND 10: *1 sc in each of the first 4 sc, and 2 sc in 5th sc*, repeat from *-* to end = 30-30-36 sc.
Continue with 1 sc in each sc until piece measures 6-6-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2 3/4". Now continue in M.1 in the round. Work M.1A, then repeat M.1B and finish with 1 sl st in st from beg of round. Continue like this until piece measures approx 11-13-14 cm / 4½"-5"-5½".

HEEL:
Now divide piece and continue back and forth from mid upper foot in M.2, work M.2A, then repeat M.2B and finish with M.2C. When the slipper measures approx 22-24-27 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10½" place it flat and crochet tog mid back with a row of sc through both layers. Cut and fasten thread.

LEG:
RIGHT SLIPPER:
Crochet 1 row of sc round the opening of slipper (beg mid front). When you are back at the beg ch 12 (for flap), turn and work 1 sc in each of these ch. Now continue back and forth with 1 sc in each sc until leg measures 8 cm / 3''. Cut and fasten thread.
LEFT SLIPPER: Beg with ch 12, then work 1 row of sc round the opening (beg mid front). When you are back at the beg turn and work 1 sc in each sc and 1 sc in each ch. Now continue back and forth with 1 sc in each sc until leg measures 8 cm / 3''. Cut and fasten thread.

Sew 2 decorative buttons through both layers on the flap.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = sc
symbols = work 1 dc, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook.
symbols = ch
symbols = sl st
symbols = dc
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Akira wrote:

Wenn man mit der Ferse fertig ist wie geht das weiter Wo setze ich genau an Häkel ich nicht gleich die Öffnung für den schaft Das mit der Bearbeitung für den schaft versteh ich nicht ganz

24.11.2020 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Akira, dieses Video zeigt am 1.55 wie man den Schaft häkelt - hier sollen Sie aber dazu 12 Luftmaschen am Ende der 1. Reihe häkeln, dh nicht in Runden dann wie im Video weiterhäkeln. Hoffentlich kann es Ihnen weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.11.2020 - 07:46

country flag Adriana Guerra wrote:

Pagina genial

15.04.2019 - 02:37

country flag Kelsey wrote:

Hi there.... if I didn't want the slippers to be that hole-y could I just continue to single crochet all the way up the foot? Are there any special steps I should follow to do that?

17.09.2018 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kelsey, you can continue with single crochets if you rather like to, just continue adjusting to the length/number of rows required for your size. Happy crocheting!

17.09.2018 - 17:39

Susan wrote:

My daughter bought her wool while on holiday so there is no hope of her going back to shop in America to ask about pattern. She is new to diagram patterns having only used worded patterns before. The M1 /M2 part has got her foxed. Not very good for her.

01.04.2018 - 23:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susan, you can always contact your DROPS store, even per mail or on social medias (see their profile). Whenw working diagram, each symbol is the key to one stitch/group of st. Start reading diagrams from the bottom corner on the right side towards the left from RS and from the left towards the right from WS. Happy crocheting!

03.04.2018 - 08:55

country flag Marlies Monster wrote:

Begrijp ik het goed dat je bij patroon m1a eerst 2x een tour met vaste moet haken en daarna een tour met noem maar even twee samen gestelde stokjes.

13.10.2017 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Marlies, Bij telpatroon M.1 is de eerste toer (dus niet de eerste 2 toeren), een toer met vasten. (= P.s.: De eerste vaste op de toer wordt vervangen door een losse (zie 'informatie voor het haken' bovenaan het patroon), deze wordt in het telptroon aangegeven met een verticaal streepje.

04.11.2017 - 14:19

country flag Johanne Elise Reianes wrote:

Hei! Jeg har problemer med og forstå diagrammet, og jeg ser jeg ikke er alene. Kan dere legge ut en bedre forklaring? I diagrammet er det en stav i slutten av første runde med st sammen, det kan vel ikke være riktig, denne står alene single st? Og i andre omg med staver sammen er det en single st som kommer hver tredje sammenhekling, slik ser det ikke ut på bildet.. Der er det to og to staver sammen rundt hele...

10.05.2016 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Johanne. Som jeg forstaar det saa hekler du staver sammen men 1 lm mellem hver og den sidste single stav er til afslutning paa omg. (og kun der).

13.05.2016 - 12:24

Salima wrote:

How we do drops by video please and thanks

09.12.2015 - 09:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Salima, the video below shows how to work the slipper - but remember to follow the pattern at the same time, video is only showing technique and construction. Happy crocheting!

09.12.2015 - 10:12

country flag Sara wrote:

Hej! Har tittat på det här mönstret ett tag nu och har äntligen bestämt mig för att börja virka. Mitt problem är att jag har hittat ett garn som kräver en virknål i storlek 5 mm. Om jag följer beskrivningen, hur mycket kommer resultatet påverkas??

26.09.2015 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej För att få rätt storlek på dessa tofflor krävs denna stickfasthet: "DROPS VIRKNÅL NR 4 – eller den virknål du måste ha för att få 14 fm x 20 v på 10 x 10 cm." Gör en provlapp för att se så du får dessa mått. Lycka till!

30.09.2015 - 11:16

Jessica wrote:

What does the 5-5-6 mean and to see crochet info? I replace the 5 with part one of crochet info? Anyone know?

19.05.2015 - 03:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jessica, this pattern is written in 3 sizes. In first 2 sizes you will crochet 5 sts in ch-ring, in largest size you will crochet 6 sts in ch-ring. Depending on your size follow first, 2nd or 3rd number. Happy crocheting!

19.05.2015 - 08:29

country flag Virginia Glynn wrote:

Where can I go to find help with this pattern. I've try to do this pattern but confused on how to read your diagram please help I would really like to do this for my daughter. I did not buy the yarn from a yarn shop for I live in Oklahoma and the nearest yarn shop is 2 hours away so I can't go to a yarn shop to ask if you can write out the diagram for me maybe I can understand this is very confusing thank you

15.12.2014 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Glynn, in the diagram each st/group of sts is represented by a symbol (see under diagram text), read diagram starting at the bottom corner on the right side and work towards the left every round (M.1) - or when working in rows, read RS rows from right to the left and WS rows from left to the right. You can get our yarns here in the USA, and then contact them by mail when you need assistance with a pattern. Happy crocheting!

15.12.2014 - 17:31