DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 123-21
DROPS design: Pattern no NE-006
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: One-size

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150 g color no 0100 eco off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 24 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 – for rib.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 - diagram shows 1 pattern repeat from RS. Explanation to the arrows is in the pattern.
--------------------------------------------------------

LEFT GLOVE:
Cast on 48 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Nepal. Work 8 rounds rib, P3/K3 – NOTE: beg with P3. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Continue as follows: P3, M.1 (= 21 sts), * P3, K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times. When you get to the row in diagram marked by the number-1 dec 1 st in each of the 3 middle P-sections on the palm of hand by P2 tog. When you get to the row marked by the number-2 dec 1 st in each of the same 3 P-sections by P2 tog (i.e. only P1 left in these 3 P-sections). After this round there are 34 sts on round. When you get to the row marked with the number-3 continue to K the 15 sts on palm of hand and work M.1 with P3 each side as before. When you get to the row marked with the number-4 inc for thumb gusset. Inc 1 st each side of the last but one st on round (= K-st) by making 1 YO each side of this st. On next round K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Repeat the inc on every other round a total of 5 times – 2 more sts between the 2 YO for each inc. When all inc are complete there are 11 thumb sts and a total of 48 sts on needle. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' from beg of thumb gusset slip the 11 thumb sts on a stitch holder and cast on 1 new st behind these = 38 sts. Complete M.1 – piece now measures approx 2 cm / 3/4'' from where thumb sts were slipped on stitch holder. Slip the first 17 sts on a stitch holder, keep the next 9 sts on needle and slip the last 12 sts on a stitch holder.

LITTLE FINGER = 9 sts, cast on 1 new st towards the hand = 10 sts. Work in the round with K over K and P over P as before – K the new st. When finger measures approx 6 cm / 2 3/8'' K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 5 sts, tighten tog.

HAND: Slip sts from stitch holders back on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7, pick up 2 sts towards little finger = 31 sts. Work 2 rounds with K over K and P over P, K the 2 new sts. Keep the 2 sts picked up towards little finger + 5 sts from upper hand and 4 sts from palm of hand on needle. Slip the remaining 20 sts back on stitch holders.

RING FINGER = 11 sts, Cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holders = 12 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for approx 7.5 cm / 2 7/8'', then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 6 sts, tighten tog.

MIDDLE FINGER: Slip 5 sts from upper hand and 4 sts from palm of hand back on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7, pick up 2 sts towards ring finger and cast on 1 new st towards sts on stitch holder = 12 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for approx 8.5 cm / 3 1/4'', then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 6 sts, tighten tog.

INDEX FINGER: Slip the remaining 11 sts back on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7, and pick up 2 sts towards middle finger = 13 sts. P the 3 sts at the side and K the remaining sts in the round for approx 7 cm / 2¾'', then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 7 sts, tighten tog.

THUMB: Slip the 11 sts over thumb gusset on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and pick up 3 sts in the edge behind these = 14 sts. Work stockinette st in the round for approx 6 cm / 2 3/8'', then K2 tog across the round. Cut the thread and pull it through remaining 7 sts, tighten tog.

RIGHT GLOVE:
Like left glove, but mirrored, i.e. beg rib with K3 instead of P3. After 8 rounds in rib continue as follows: K3/P3 on 24 sts, M.1 and P3. Inc for thumb gusset each side of the 2nd st on round. Work the little finger as follows: Slip the first 12 sts on a stitch holder (= palm of hand), keep the next 9 sts on needle and slip the remaining 17 sts on a stitch holder (= upper hand).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 tog from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2 tog, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 in st on cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2 in next st and K2 from cable needle
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = K2 tog into back of loop
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 123-21

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Marion De Vries wrote:

In de beschrijving staat \"Minder als u aankomt bij pijl nummer-1 in het telpatroon 1 st in iedere van de 3 middelste av-delen op de palm van de hand door 2 st av samen te breien.\". Echter 2 pennen eerder is al begonnen met minderen in het telpatroon. Ook bij pijl-1 staan minderingen in het telpatroon. Als ik die optel hij het aantal van de minderingen op de palm kom ik op 14+4=18. Dan blijven 48-18=30 steken over i.p.v. 34 steken. Begrijp ik het verkeerd?

11.03.2021 - 21:14

country flag Marion wrote:

In de uitleg van het patroon staat "Zet 1 st op een kabelnld en hou deze achter het werk, 2 st recht, 2 st recht in st op kabelnld". Wat wordt bedoeld met 2 st recht in st op kabelnld? Er staat maar 1 st op de kabelnaald.

08.03.2021 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marion,

Er wordt mee bedoeld dat je 2 steken in 1 steek moet breien. Dus je meerdert in 1 steek in de steek van de kabelnaald.

09.03.2021 - 11:57

country flag Rokky wrote:

Thank you for replying I had try it still end up with 45 Sts not 41 you said and how long would I knit before beg the thumb guest because the gloves is long before the thumb begins looking at the picture

07.07.2020 - 00:28

country flag ROKKY wrote:

Hello am trying to knit this pattern but it said on the pattern dec by p 3 to 2 and there 48 when I dec am getting 44 Sts am comfuss or there is a mistake

05.07.2020 - 18:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rokky, you decrease 3 sts (P3 into P2 a total of 3 times) + 4 sts in M.1 (2 sts in row 14 + 2 sts in row with the arrow) = 41 sts. Then you dec the remaining P3 to P1 and 4 more sts will be decreased in M.1 (= 2 on row 26 + 2 on row with the arrow-2) = 34 sts remain. Happy knitting!

06.07.2020 - 09:35

country flag Ida wrote:

Op 7 juni heb ik een vraag gesteld. Nog geen antwoord gehad. Hoe”ang moet ik nog wachten? Groeten, Ida

20.06.2019 - 16:17

country flag Ursula Quach wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, die Mütze ist fertig 😍 danke für die Anleitung. Ich möchte statt Handschuhe lieber, etwas längere, Pulswärmer stricken. Kann ich einfach eine Anleitung aus der Garngruppe C nutzen?

24.03.2018 - 12:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Quach, wenn Sie liber Pulswärmer möchten, können Sie auch die Anleitung der Handschuhen folgen, aber ohne Zunahmen für den Daumen, noch keine Teilung der Maschen für die Finger. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.03.2018 - 10:56

country flag Alison wrote:

Finding the pattern difficult to follow. After the initial rib, when does the grid pattern start? How does the M1 fit in with the number of stitches required? for the left glove, the P3K3 appears to happen in the wrong place, then the M1 no longer fits. Hoping you can help! Alison.

25.12.2015 - 00:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, start reading A.1 from the bottom corner on the right side and on 1st round you work: P3, then work the 21 sts in M.1 and work in rib P3/K3 to the end of round = you start round towards inside of wrist, work top of hand (pattern) and finish with inside of hand. Happy knitting!

02.01.2016 - 13:42

country flag PROVOST wrote:

Bonjour, sur un ouvrage où il faut faire le 1er rang en jersey endroit et le 2eme rang en jersey envers, comment faut il procéder ? merci.

22.01.2015 - 17:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Provost, je n'ai pas trouvé cette indication dans les gants, mais si vous tricotez en rond, 1 tour end puis 1 tour env vous donne une côte mousse (cf vidéo ici). Si vous tricotez en allers et retours, vous aurez ainsi 2 rangs jersey. 1 rang jersey endroit = tricotez les mailles à l'endroit - 1 rang jersey envers = tricotez les mailles à l'envers. Bon tricot!

22.01.2015 - 18:11

country flag PROVOST wrote:

Bonjour, je souhaiterai avoir quelques explications sur le diagramme du modèle des gants. Où sont passées les 1eres mailles du rang de la flèche 1 et du rang du dessous. Est ce des diminutions ? Merci.

22.01.2015 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Provost, on diminue 1 m dans chacune des torsades 5e et 6e symbole en tricotant 2 m ens à l'end, soit notamment 2 rangs avant la flèche 1 et au rang avec la flèche 1. Bon tricot!

22.01.2015 - 18:08

country flag DROPS Deutsch wrote:

Ja, das war ein Übersetzungsfehler. Der Diagrammtext wurde angepasst.

01.02.2012 - 11:57