DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Magic Ride

DROPS jacket in garter st in ”Fabel” with shawl collar, curved front pieces and turns. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS 125-36
DROPS design: Pattern no FA-127
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 520, brown mix

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – for border

DROPS SHELL BUTTON W/HOLE no 525: 2 pcs. for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

TURNS: Work turns to create the curved front pieces as follows:
Row 1: Work 48-54-60-66-72-78 sts, turn piece.
Row 2: Work return row.
Row 3: Work 45-51-57-63-69-75 sts, turn piece.
Row 4: Work return row.
Row 5: Work 42-48-54-60-66-72 sts, turn piece.
Row 6: Work return row.
Row 7: Work 39-45-51-57-63-69 sts, turn piece.
Row 8: Work return row.
Continue like this with 3 sts less before each turn until you have knitted back and forth on only the first 6 sts.
Now work 2 rows on all sts.
There are now 32-36-40-44-48-52 rows garter st on the outside and 2 rows garter st on the inside. Repeat from Row 1 a total of 5 times.
The curve now measures approx 33-38-42-46-50-54 cm on the outside and 1 cm on the inside.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 88-98-108-120-134-148 sts on needle size 3 mm with Fabel and work GARTER ST – see above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 3 cm inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 2.5 cm a total of 5 times = 98-108-118-130-144-158 sts. When piece measures 15 cm cast off for armhole at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-3-4-4-7-10 times and 1 st 2-2-4-5-5-5 times = 84-86-88-92-94-96 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm cast off the middle 24-26-28-32-34-36 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 29 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm.

RIGHT EDGE PIECE:
MAKE ALL MEASUREMENTS ON THE SHORT SIDE! Cast on 51-57-63-69-75-81 sts on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work garter st. When piece measures 18-20-22-25-28-31 cm work TURNS with start from RS – see above. When all the turns are completed continue in garter st on all sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! When piece measures 3 cm inc 1 st towards front edge, and repeat the inc on every 3.5 cm a total of 10 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm inc at the side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece (cast off for armhole on the shortest side) = 59-61-63-65-65-65 sts. Continue in garter st until piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm. On next row from WS cast off 29 sts at the side for shoulder, work remaining sts on row = 30-32-34-36-36-36 sts left for collar. Continue with shortened rows on collar sts as follows – from RS: * back and forth on the first 15-16-17-18-18-18 sts, back and forth on all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx 7-8-8-9-9-10 cm where shortest (measured from shoulder). Cast off.

LEFT EDGE PIECE:
Like right piece, but mirrored. Work turns with start from WS.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 56-58-60-62-64-68 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Fabel and work garter st. When piece measures 3 cm continue in stocking st. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 3-2.5-2-1.5-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 13-15-17-20-22-23 times = 82-88-94-102-108-114 sts. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-44 cm - NOTE: Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- cast off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 5 times, 1 st 1-2-4-6-9-12 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-56-57-57-58-58 cm, cast off 3 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts of. Piece measures approx 57-57-58-58-59-59 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew cast on row of edge pieces tog mid back and sew them to bottom edge of back piece. Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew under arm seams and side seams in inside 1 edge st. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline.

CROCHET BORDER: Crochet a border round the opening of jacket with crochet hook size 3 mm as follows: 1 dc, * 2 ch, skip approx ½ cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
Sew buttons on left front piece, approx 2 and 10 cm over the turns and use crochet border as buttonholes.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.11.2010
TURNS: ....
Continue like this with 3 sts less before each turn until you have knitted back and forth on only the first 6 sts.
Now work 2 rows on all sts.
There are now 32-36-40-44-48-52 rows garter st on the outside and 2 rows garter st on the inside.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (94)

country flag Annelise Sørensen wrote:

Jeg vil gerne købe 10 ngl af fabel print nr 520 kan ikke finde det nogen steder kan man bestille hos jer mvh Annelise Sørensen

01.12.2022 - 13:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annelise, DROPS Fabel 520 er desværre udgået, du kan se det aktuelle farvekort her: DROPS Farvekort

01.12.2022 - 13:51

country flag Lisa Christmas wrote:

How many grams of yarn will I need for the sleeves in size small for Magic Ride? Total yarn requirement is 400 g for small size. Thank you...

25.07.2019 - 03:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Christmas, we do not have the yarn requirements for each piece of the pattern, only whole yarn requirement. Happy knitting!

06.08.2019 - 10:07

country flag Lisa Christmas wrote:

Hello, How should the "edge stitch" be worked on the sleeve section? I found several versions online but not sure which would be best. Thank you for your assistance.

13.06.2019 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Christmas, since you are working the sleeves in stocking stitch, you can work the edge stitches also in stocking stitch, or depending on how you are used to sew your pieces, with 1 edge st in garter st on each side. Happy knitting!

13.06.2019 - 16:31

country flag Lisa Christmas wrote:

Are the "finished measurements" taken before or after blocking? Thank you.

24.05.2019 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lisa, the measurements given on the schematics are given slightly blocked (that is rinsed, and pat into shape, no strong blocking - pulling hard, pins, etc- required). Happy crafting!

25.05.2019 - 10:15

country flag Lina wrote:

Hej. Jag håller just nu på att sticka framstycket men förstår inte riktigt hur kan ska göra med ökningarna? Ska man öka 1 maska 10 gånger på den kanten som ska vara längst fram? Med 3.5 cm mellanrum. Och samtidigt öka 1 maska på båda kanterna 5 gånger? Med 2.5 cm mellanrum? I så fall får jag en ökning på 20 maskor, men jag behöver öka med 26 maskor för att antalet maskor ska stämma överens efter avkastning för armhålet? Lite förvirrad, tack för hjälpen

10.02.2019 - 21:51

country flag Anita wrote:

Dann hätte ich noch eine Frage zum Kragen.Ich finde,die Schönheit der Jacke macht viel der Kragen aus.Mich verunsichert jetzt:bis der Kragen von der Schulter aus 10 cm misst.Das kann nie und nimmer ein so schöner grösser Kragen wie auf dem Foto werden!Wie kann ich den Kragen grösser stricken?

16.10.2018 - 11:18

country flag Anita wrote:

Ich möchte die Jacke länger.Soll ich einfach am Rückenteil, da wo die Rundungen dann angesetzt werden noch beliebige Reihen gerade hochstricken,oder ist das die falsche Stelle? Also in der Zeichnung an der gestrichelten Linie

16.10.2018 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anita, leider können wir nicht jede unsere Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, aber gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden damit helfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.10.2018 - 15:32

country flag Ina Winkler wrote:

Ich muss mich Ricardas Kommentar anschließen: Ich habe die Jacke in Gr. S gestrickt und der Kragen ist viel kürzer als auf dem Foto. So wirkt die Jacke ganz anders, eher wie ein braver Blazer. Das ist so garnicht das, was ich wollte. Wirklich schade!

01.07.2018 - 10:23

country flag VERMANDÉ wrote:

Comment faire le col je ne trouve pas les explications sur le modèle je suis en court de réalisation de ce très beau modèle pour le Noël de ma petite belle fille bien à vous

24.11.2016 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vermandé, le col se tricote à la fin de chacune des bordure, ex sous la bordure devant droit, quand vous avez rabattu les 29 m pour l'épaule, il reste 30-36 m pour le col, continuez en rangs raccourcis sur ces mailles pendant 7-10 cm. Bon tricot!

24.11.2016 - 16:09

country flag Federica wrote:

Buonasera, nella ripetizione dei ferri accorciati, ad ogni serie, (5 in tutto), si devono ripetere anche i 2 ferri su tutte le maglie? Grazie cordiali saluti

23.09.2016 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Federica. Sì, ad ogni ripetizione vanno ripetuti anche i due ferri su tutte le m. Buon lavoro!

23.09.2016 - 19:07