DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale

Jonas

Set of knitted jacket, pants, helmet hat and socks with Nordic pattern, for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS Baby 19-32
DROPS design: Pattern no BM-026-by-BM-027-by-BM-028-by-BM-029-by
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JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 48-56-62 (70-76) cm / 19"-22"-24 3/8" (27½"-30")
Full length: 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11''-11 3/4''-13 3/8'' (15''-16½'')

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-150-150 (150-200) g color no 02, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 11, ice blue
50 g for all sizes color no 12, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 2.5 mm/US 1 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') size 2 mm/US 0 - for rib.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTON, no 503: 6-6-6 (7-7) pcs..
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PANTS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Around waist: 48-50-54 (56-58) cm / 19"-19 3/4"-21 1/4" (22"-22 3/4")
Full length: 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4")

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 02, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 11, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 2.5 mm/US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') size 2 mm/ US 0 – for rib.
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HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: approx 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / 16''-17''-18'' (19''-20'').

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 11, ice blue
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 02, off-white
50-50-50 (50-50) g color no 12, light blue

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm / 24" and 16") size 2.5 mm/US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 40 cm / 24" and 16") size 2 mm/US 0 – for rib.
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'')

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 02, off-white.
50 g for all sizes color no 11, ice blue.
50 g for all sizes color no 12, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1 – or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2 mm/ US 0 – for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.5. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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JACKET:

BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 153-177-201 (223-245) sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with ice blue. Work 1 row rib, K1/P1 with K1 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see above - each side towards mid front (as seen from RS). Change to off-white and continue in rib. When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-30-36 (40-44) sts evenly = 129-147-165 (183-201) sts. Insert a marker 33-37-42 (46-51) sts in from each side = 63-73-81 (91-99) sts between markers on back piece. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side towards mid front – NOTE: work last but one st on needle like first st in M.1 to make pattern identical both sides of mid front. After M.1 continue in M.2 with 1 edge st in garter st each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx 15-17-20 (23-26) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-8" (9"-10 1/4") - adjust to at least 2 rows after a row with dots in pattern - work M.3 (remember to work the last but one st on needle like first st in M.3 to make pattern identical both sides of mid front). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-27) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" (9½"-10 5/8") divide piece by markers for armhole and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 63-73-81 (91-99) sts. Cast on 1 new st each side (= edge st for seam) = 65-75-83 (93-101) sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter st each side. After M.3 work M.4 with 1 edge st in garter st each side – NOTE: the arrow in M.4 marks the middle of back piece, count sts towards the side from here to see where to beg in M.4. After M.4 complete piece in ice blue. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-41) cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-13" (14½"-16 1/8") bind off the middle 23-25-27 (27-29) sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 2 sts on neckline on next row = 19-23-26 (31-34) sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11''-11 3/4''-13 3/8'' (15''-16½'').

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-37-42 (46-51) sts. Cast on 1 new st towards armhole (= edge st for seam) = 34-38-43 (47-52) sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st in garter st each side. After M.3 work M.4 with 1 edge st in garter st each side – NOTE: adjust the pattern to make it look neat towards mid front, there should be 1 st in light blue mid front after edge st and before 1 off-white square or cross. After M.4 complete piece in ice blue.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24-26-29 (33-36) cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11 3/8" (13"-14 1/4") slip 9-9-10 (11-12) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2-2-2 (1-1) times and 1 st 2-2-3 (3-4) times = 19-23-26 (31-34) sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 28-30-34 (38-42) cm / 11''-11 3/4''-13 3/8'' (15''-16½'').

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round.
Cast on 48-50-56 (58-64) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm/US 0 with ice blue. Work 1 round rib, K1/P1, change to off-white and continue in rib. When piece measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 11-13-13 (15-15) sts evenly = 37-37-43 (43-49) sts.
READ THE REST OF SLEEVE SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Work M.1 – adjust to the middle, see arrow in diagram. After M.1 continue in M.2 (adjust to the middle, see arrow) until piece measures approx 16-16-18 (23-26) cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7" (9"-10 1/4") – adjust to at least 2 rows after 1 row with dots in pattern. Now work M.5 (adjust to the middle, see arrow) – if necessary complete piece in ice blue after M.5 to reach final measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5-6-6 (7-7) cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" (2 3/4"-2 3/4") inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat the inc a total of 11-13-13 (15-15) times as follows:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS + 12/18 MONTHS + 2 YEARS: on every 4th round
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: on every 3rd round
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: on every 5th round
= 59-63-69 (73-79) sts – incorporate inc sts in pattern as you go along.
When piece measures approx 19-19-21 (26-29) cm / 7½"-7½"-8 1/4" (10 1/4"-11 3/8") (M.5 is now finished and there may be a few rounds of ice blue) bind off loosely.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

LEFT FRONT BAND:
Pick up approx 75-83-93 (105-115) sts (divisible by 2 + 1 st) along left front piece on needle size 2 mm/US 0 with off-white. Work rib, K1/P1 with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st each side (as seen from RS). When front band measures 2 cm / 3/4'' bind off with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT FRONT BAND:
Like left front band but after 1 cm / 3/8'' make 5-5-5 (6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed – place bottom buttonhole approx 1.5 cm / ½" from bottom edge and the top one approx 4 cm / 1½'' from neckline (the last buttonhole is made on neckline).
1 BUTTONHOLE = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row.

NECKLINE:
Pick up from RS approx 87 to 117 sts round neckline - includes sts on stitch holders at front and also pick up on front bands (no of sts divisible by 2 + 1 st) on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with off-white. Work rib, K1/P1 with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st each side towards mid front (as seen from RS). AT THE SAME TIME after 1 cm / 3/8'' make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on front band. When neck measures 2 cm / 3/4'', change to ice blue, work 1 row rib and bind off with K over K and P over P.
Set in sleeves inside 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons.

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PANTS:

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.

DECREASING TIP: Beg 2 sts before marker and work sts as follows: K2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
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PANTS:
Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 142-150-160 (166-172) sts on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with ice blue – beg of round = mid back. Work 1 round rib, K1/P1, change to off-white and continue in rib. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.
K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-18-22 (22-22) sts evenly = 126-132-138 (144-150) sts.

ELEVATION MID BACK: Now continue in M.2 at the same time work elevation mid back as follows: work 10-11-11 (12-12) sts from beg of round, turn piece (to avoid a hole slip first st as if to K and tighten thread). Work 20-22-22 (24-24) sts and turn piece. Work 30-33-33 (36-36) sts and turn piece. Work 40-44-44 (48-48) sts and turn piece. Continue like this by working a further 10-11-11 (12-12) sts before each turn another 8 times (= 12 shortened rows in total). Now continue in M.2 in the round on all sts.

INC: When piece measures 13-16-17 (18-19) cm / 5 1/8"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" (7"-7½") from the waist (measured mid front) insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 63-66-69 (72-75) sts (to mark mid front and mid back). Now inc 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 inc sts per round) on every 3rd round a total of 6 times = 150-156-162 (168-174) sts. After the last inc piece measures approx 18-21-22 (23-24) cm / 7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" (9"-9½") from the waist (measured mid front).

LEG:
Work 75-78-81 (84-87) sts - beg mid back and slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder. Continue in the round with M.2 as before - insert a marker on the inside of leg = beg of round. Now dec 1 st each side of marker – see DECREASING TIP - a total of 14-13-12 (11-10) times as follows:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: on every 2nd and 3rd round alternately
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: on every 4th and 5th round alternately
SIZE 2 YEARS: on every 6th and 7th round alternately
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: on every 9th and 10th round alternately
= 47-52-57 (62-67) sts.
When piece measures approx 27-33-36 (42-49) cm / 10 5/8"-13"-14 1/4" (16½"-19 1/4") from the waist - adjust to after 2 rounds after a round with dots in pattern - work M.1 – beg at the top of diagram and see arrow marking the middle of round (= outside of leg). After M.1 change to off-white and double pointed needles size 2 mm/US 0. K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 11-12-13 (16-17) sts evenly = 58-64-70 (78-84) sts. Continue in rib, K1/P1 until piece measures 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4") from the waist (rib now measures approx 5-5-6 (6-6) cm / 2"-2"-2 3/8" (2 3/8"-2 3/8")), change to ice blue, work 1 round rib and bind off loosely in rib.
Knit the other leg in the same way.

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HAT:

PATTERN: See diagram M.7. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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HAT:
Worked in the round first, from bottom edge towards the top, and then completed back and forth on needle. Round beg mid back.

LOOSELY cast on 220-244-256 (280-288) sts on circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 with off-white and work 1 round rib K1/P1. Change to ice blue and continue in rib. When rib measures 3-3-3 (4-4) cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8'' (1½''-1½'') change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1. Work 1 round stockinette st with ice blue, AT THE SAME TIME dec 52-52-64 (64-72) sts evenly = 168-192-192 (216-216) sts. Now work M.7. After M.7 there are 154-176-176 (198-198) sts on needle, continue in the round in ice blue stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd round after M.7 dec 14-16-16 (18-18) sts evenly – i.e. K tog every 10th and 11 th st, BUT make sure dec sit over dec from last round in M.7. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4 times – NOTE: for every dec work 1 less stockinette st between each dec on round = 98-112-112 (126-126) sts on needle and piece measures approx 10-10-10 (11-11) cm / 4"-4"-4" (4 3/8"-4 3/8"). Work 2 rounds stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on second round dec 8-18-16 (26-22) sts evenly = 90-94-96 (100-104) sts. Change to circular needle size 2 mm/US 0 and work rib, K1/P1, until rib measures 2.5-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm / 7/8"-7/8"-7/8" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"). Now continue back and forth on needle and work next ROW from mid back as follows: work rib as before on the first 35-36-37 (38-39) sts, slip the next 21-23-23 (25-27) sts on a stitch holder (without working the sts) = mid front. Change back to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1, turn piece and P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME inc 26-32-34 (44-50) sts evenly = 95-103-107 (119-127) sts on needle.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work next row as follows from RS:
1 edge st in garter st, * K1/P3 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain and finish with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue in rib like this back and forth on needle. When piece measures 11-12-13 (14-15) cm / 4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8'' (5½''-6'') slip the middle 31-31-35 (39-39) sts on a stitch holder for the middle piece of hat.
K 1 row from RS, K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS on the outermost 32-36-36 (40-44) sts on one side of piece, then bind off in K sts from WS.
Repeat on the other side of piece.
Slip the 31-31-35 (39-39) sts from stitch holder back on needle and continue in rib with K1 and 1 edge st in garter st each side (as seen from RS) until middle piece measures 11-12-12 (14-15) cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" (5½"-6") from where sts were slipped on stitch holder. Work 2 rows garter st and bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew middle piece to each side piece with neat sts inside 1 edge st each side.
RIB BORDER ROUND FRONT OPENING: Pick up approx 120 to 160 sts (divisible by 2) round the opening (includes sts from stitch holder at front) on circular needle size 2 mm with ice blue. Work rib, K1/P1, in the round until rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', bind off LOOSELY with K over K and P over P. Fold rib double towards WS and fasten with neat sts.


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SOCKS:

DECREASING TIP (applies to mid back on leg):
Dec 1 st each side of the 3 middle sts mid back (= K1 + P1 + K1) by P2 tog.

PATTERN: See diagram M.6. The pattern is worked in stockinette st.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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SOCK:
With off-white and double pointed needles size 2 mm/US 0 cast on 58-66-72 (78-82) sts. Work 1 round rib, K1/P1, change to ice blue and continue in rib. When piece measures 2-3-4 (5-6) cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1½" (2"-2 3/8") dec 2 sts mid back – see DECREASING TIP! Repeat the dec on every 2 cm / 3/4'' a total of 5 times = 48-56-62 (68-72) sts.
When rib measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5 1/8''-5½'') change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1. Work 1 round stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-10-16 (16-20) sts evenly = 42-46-46 (52-52) sts.
Work 1 round stockinette st on all sts. Now slip the first 16-17-17 (19-19) sts and the last 16-17-17 (19-19) sts on round on separate stitch holders = 10-12-12 (14-14) sts left on needle for middle piece.
Work 4-5-5.5 (7-8) cm / 1½"-2"-2 1/4" (2 3/4"-3 1/8") stockinette st on these sts. Now slip sts from stitch holders back on needle, AT THE SAME TIME pick up 11-13-15 (18-22) sts each side of middle piece = 64-72-76 (88-96) sts.
Cut the thread and now beg round mid back.
Work 1-2-4 (5-7) rounds stockinette st in the round on all sts with ice blue. Continue in M.6 - NOTE: for size 12/18 months there will be 2 identical repeats of M.6 mid back. After M.6 work 1 round stockinette st with ice blue, then P 1 round on all sts and now bind off all sts except the 10-12-12 (14-14) sts from middle piece. Continue in GARTER ST - see above - back and forth on these sts for sole. When sole measures 10-11-12 (14-16) cm / 4''-4 3/8''-4¾'' (5½''-6¼'') bind off. Sew sole to the sock with neat sts.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.09.2010
BODY PIECE:... When rib measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm / 1½"-1½"-1½" (2"-2") change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 and K 1 row from RS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 24-30-36 (40-44) sts evenly = 129-147-165 (183-201) sts.
Updated online: 12.12.2022
Correction in M.1 and M.2

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = ice blue
symbols = light blue
symbols = K2 tog with ice blue
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Pia Persson wrote:

Hej, Stickar mössan; när man kommer till halsresåren; strl 40/42, minska 8 m till =90 m. sticka resår i 2,5 cm. nästa v stickas så här från mitt bak: sticka över de 35 m , sätt följ 21 m på 1 tråd (utan att stickas), vänd och sticka samtidigt som det ökas 26 m= 95 m. Hur får ni ihop den matematiken? Gör gärna en video så man ser.

07.02.2021 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Du har 90m från början och sätter 21 m på en tråd + att du ökar 26 m. 90-21+26=95m. Mvh DROPS Design

08.02.2021 - 07:51

country flag Deni wrote:

I'm knitting socks size 12/18 months.I've worked 5.5 cm stocking st on middle piece but I don't understand how to slip sts back on needle and at the same time pick up sts from the middle part.Than it says work 4 rounds stocking st in the round-does it mean actually working in the round?

26.10.2020 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deni, work the middle 12 sts on needle (top of foot), pick up sts along the left side of the mid top of foot, work stitches from threads, pick up sts along the right side of mid top of foot, join and continue in the round (= first of the 4 rounds in stocking stitch). Happy knitting!

26.10.2020 - 12:27

country flag Benyó Nóra wrote:

A sapka leírását hol találom?

13.10.2019 - 16:53

country flag Andy wrote:

The pattern itself is nice as long as you make sure to line up your polka dots. You kind of have to keep an eye on it. Create a chart for the decreases as well. But the suggested yarn left me very disappointed. It is spun very loosely and will stretch enormously the second you get it wet for blocking. It ruined this piece for me.

02.02.2019 - 18:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Andy, BabyMerino has to be worked rather tight than loose (see informations on its shadecard) and read more about Merino care here. Happy knitting!

04.02.2019 - 14:41

country flag Marine wrote:

J'ai fait mon échantillon en aller-retour, pensez-vous qu'il y ait une incidence avec le fait que le modèle se tricote en rond ? Merci

17.10.2017 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marine, essayez de conserver la même tension quand vous tricotez en rond, et ainsi, tout sera juste. Bon tricot!

17.10.2017 - 15:48

country flag Marine wrote:

Pourriez-vous me dire combien de cm doit faire la circonférence au niveau des côtes avec les 220 mailles ? Merci de votre réponse

17.10.2017 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marine, je suis désolée, nous n'avons pas cette mesure, mais si votre échantillon en jersey est juste, votre ouvrage aura les bonnes dimensions. Bon tricot!

17.10.2017 - 13:57

country flag Marine wrote:

Bonjour, Lorsque j'ai monté 220 mailles pour la collerette sur des aiguilles circulaires de 40 cm de long et que j'ai tricoté 2 cm de côtes, la circonférence de mon tricot mesure environ 40/ 45cm alors que pour 220 mailles il devrait faire beaucoup plus ! Mon échantillon fait 26 mailles, que se passe-t-il, je ne comprends pas ! Merci de votre aide

16.10.2017 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marine, les 220 mailles se tricotent d'abord en côtes 1/1 ce qui va resserrer la circonférence, après les côtes, vous diminuez 52 m, vous tricotez M.7 et ses diminutions au dernier rang, il vous restera 154 m. Si votre échantillon est juste, continuez simplement. Bon tricot!

17.10.2017 - 09:29

country flag Geray wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. Je veux savoir combien mesure le tour de la collerette en bas, au niveau des épaules car il n'y a pas de schéma où cela est indiqué afin de savoir si mon tricot correspond bien. Merci

11.10.2017 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Madame Geray, avec un échantillon de 26 m = 10 cm en jersey, le bas de la cagoule mesurera environ 65 cm (sur 168 m jersey dans M.7). Bon tricot!

11.10.2017 - 13:48

country flag Geray wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai bien compris qu'il faut partir avec 220 mailles pour la taille 1/3 mois, mais j'aimerais savoir combien mesure la largeur de la collerette épaules à épaules au niveau des côtes 1/1 quand elle est réalisée ? Merci d'avance

10.10.2017 - 18:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Geray, les côtes 1/1 mesurent 3 cm + M.7, on arrive à environ 10 cm + 2 tours jersey et on va tricoter en côtes pour le cou. Bon tricot!

11.10.2017 - 08:54

country flag Geray wrote:

Je suis en train de réaliser la taille 1/3 mois. Merci

09.10.2017 - 19:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Geray, en taille 1/3 mois, vous commencez avec 220 m pour le bas de la cagoule. Bon tricot!

10.10.2017 - 09:25