DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Vent de Sable

DROPS jacket in ”Muskat” with double moss st on yoke. Size S to XXXL

DROPS 118-12
DROPS design: Pattern no R-572

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
500-550-650-700-750-850 g colour no 23, beige.

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm – for moss st and garter st
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS no 522: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
DOUBLE MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over K and P over P.
Row 3: * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 4: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.
DECREASING TIP (applies to neckline):
To make neckline neat, slip first st as if to K and pass over next st on all rows with dec from mid front.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 35, 40 and 45 cm.
SIZE M: 35, 41 and 47 cm.
SIZE L: 36, 42 and 48 cm.
SIZE XL: 36, 43 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXL: 37, 44 and 51 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 37, 45 and 53 cm.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 102-112-122-132-142-152 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3.5 mm. Work 4 rows GARTER ST – see above! Change to needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm dec 1 st each side, and repeat the dec on every 4 cm a total of 7 times = 88-98-108-118-128-138 sts. When piece measures 35 cm change to needle size 3.5 mm and complete piece in DOUBLE MOSS ST – see above. When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-2-3-4-6-6 times and 1 st 3-3-5-4-4-4 times = 76-78-80-82-84-88 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm cast off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st at the beg of every row from neckline 2 times = 20-21-21-22-22-24 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 56-61-66-71-76-81 sts (includes 1 edge st at the side and 7 front band sts towards mid front) on needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Work 4 rows garter st. Change to needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st with 7 front band sts in garter st. When piece measures 8 cm dec at the side as described for back piece (1 st 7 times) = 49-54-59-64-69-74 sts. When piece measures 35 cm change to needle size 3.5 mm and complete piece in double moss st with front band in garter st.
When piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 47-49-50-52-53-55 cm cast off for neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 10 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4-4 times and 1 st 7-7-8-8-7-7 times – SEE DECREASING TIP. When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 20-21-21-22-22-24 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above!

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts on needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat. Work 4 rows garter st. Change to needle size 4 mm and continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm inc 1 st each side, and repeat the inc on every 3-2.5-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 13-15-16-17-19-20 times = 72-78-82-86-92-96 sts. When piece measures 48-47-46-45-44-43 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 3-5-6-7-9-10 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 56 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Claude wrote:

Bonjour, je réalise ce modèle taille L ,je termine les manches et je me rends compte que l’emmanchure est trop petite par rapport à l’emmanchure dos et des devants.Pour les manches j’ai bien suivi les explications et commencé les diminutions à 46 cm de hauteur totale ! Merci de me dire à quelle hauteur je dois commencer mes diminutions pour faire coïncider le dos et les devants.

06.09.2021 - 15:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Claude, l'arrondi de la manche doit mesurer 10 cm de hauteur totale en taille L (cf schéma), autrement dit, on commence à 46 cm et la manche mesure 56 cm de hauteur totale, vous devriez avoir suffisamment de mailles tout le long du haut de la manche pour coudre le long de l'emmanchure. Épinglez la manche si besoin avant de la coudre. Bon tricot!

07.09.2021 - 08:54

country flag Suzanne Spencer wrote:

Hello, sorry this is probably a really basic question! When decreasing on the left and right side where the 7 garter stitch button band is, do I decrease after these 7 stitches or decrease at the edge and add another knit stitch at the end of the remaining 6 knit stitches? I hope this makes sense?

01.04.2019 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Spencer, when you have to decrease on the side for front pieces as described for back piece, you will decrease on each front piece only 1 stitch towards the side (not towards the 7 front band sts), ie at the beg of row from RS on left front piece and at the end of row from RS on right front piece = only 7 sts will be decreased (as you decreased 14 sts on back piece). Happy knitting!

02.04.2019 - 09:41

country flag Murielle wrote:

Buongiorno, è tutto molto chiaro tranne come terminare le maniche: non si capisce alla fine quanto maglie rimangono sui ferri (per esempio per la taglia s?). Grazie mille

10.02.2017 - 12:03

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Murielle. L’indicazione è quella di diminuire, per la taglia S, 4 m 1 volta, 2 m 3 volte e 1 m 3 volte, poi 2 m da ciascun lato finché il lavoro non misura 55 cm. Il numero delle diminuzioni dipende dalla sua tensione in verticale. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2017 - 13:42

country flag Chrissie wrote:

Ich fürchte ich bin heute völlig zerstreut beim Lesen... es hat sich mittlerweile alles geklärt, ich hab lediglich nicht richtig gezählt :-D

30.06.2016 - 21:01

country flag Chrissie wrote:

Oh weh, ich habe vor einer halben Stunde eine Frage an Sie gestellt und jetzt festgestellt, dass diese sich garnicht auf dieses sondern auf das MOdell Take it Easy als Pulli bezieht. Könnten sie mir die Frage vllt. dennoch beantworten? Liebe Grüße

30.06.2016 - 20:12

country flag Chrissie wrote:

Hallo, ich bin noch ganz am Anfang der Strickanleitung und frage mich wie der folgende Satz gemeint ist: Diese Zunahmen in jeder 4. Reihe noch weitere ... mal wiederholen. Wenn ich wirklich jede 4. Reihe (ohne diejenige in der ich bereits abgenommen habe) wieder abnehme, dann würde ich einmal von der linken und einmal von der rechten Seite im Wechsel abnehmen (und der 1. Markierer wird zum 8. Markierer und umgekehrt...) Verstehe ich das so richtig? Danke schonmal für die Antwort!!

30.06.2016 - 19:33

country flag Alison McGinnes wrote:

Thank you so much for your help. I think your patterns are fantastic and the speedy response was great. thanks again!

06.02.2013 - 19:10

country flag ALISON MCGINNES wrote:

Hi, I wonder if you can help me. I've been knitting the back of this pattern, started the seed stitch and have decreased for the armholes. I am left with 100 sts not 82 sts (which it should be for the XL size). You have 118 sts then change needles to 3.5's then 3sts 2 times, 2sts 4 times and 1st 4 times ( a total of 18 stitches!!??) 118-18 = 100 sts. Is it a problem with the pattern or am I being a loon? Thanks for your help! Alison

05.02.2013 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Mcginnes, you will dec 3 sts 2 times, 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 4 times both sides = at the beg of every row each ise = 118 sts - (18 sts x 2) = 82 sts. Happy knitting !

06.02.2013 - 11:13

country flag Claudia wrote:

Schöne schlichte Jacke :-)

05.03.2010 - 08:07

Lorena Morales wrote:

De todo gusto, estos diseños tan romanticos, me hacen muy feliz, gracias por crear cosas tan lindas para nosotras las mujeres delicadas y femeninas.

24.02.2010 - 03:19