NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
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Crochet info: Replace first dc on every row with dc with 1 ch and first dtr on every row with dtr with 4 ch.
Finish every row with dc with 1 dc in 4th ch from beg of previous row and every row with dtr with 1 dtr in first ch from beg of previous row.
Pattern: * 1 row dc, 1 row dtr *, repeat from *-* - Note: crochet in each dc/dtr from previous row and not in between them.
Front band: Work front band as follows from mid front:
On rows with dtr: 4 dtr, 1 ch, 1 dtr.
On rows with dc: 6 dc.
Pleats: Work pleats as follows:
Pleat to the left: Fold the 4 skipped dtr to the left behind piece. Work dc on row to pleat, now work 2 dc through all 3 layers.
Pleat to the right: Fold the 4 skipped dtr to the right behind piece. Work dc on row to 2 dtr before pleat, now work 2 dc through all 3 layers.
Increasing tip: Inc 1 dc/dtr at side by working 1 extra dc/dtr in second but last dc.
Decreasing tip: Note: Only dec on rows with dtr.
Dec as follows at beg of row: Replace 1 dtr with 1 sl st.
Dec as follows at the end of row: Turn piece when no of dtr to be dec remain and work return row.
Jacket: Worked back and forth from mid front. See Crochet info! Crochet 208-233-253-278-308-333 ch (includes 4 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Silke-Tweed and 1 thread Alpaca (= 2 threads).
Work first row as follows: Work 1 dtr in 5th ch from hook, and continue as follows: * skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*, but in the last repeat skip 1 ch and work 1 dtr in each of the last 2 ch = 164-184-200-220-244-264 dtr.
Turn piece and continue in Pattern - see above – with 6 dtr/dc on front bands each side – see above. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures approx 15 cm – adjust so that next row is a row with dc – continue as follows: 6 dc (front band), 9-9-7-7-9-9 dc, skip 4 dtr, * 6 dc, skip 4 dtr *, repeat from *-* a total of 13-15-17-19-21-23 times, finish with 9-9-7-7-9-9 dc and 6 dc (front band).
Work next row as follows – with dc: 6 dc (front band), 9-9-7-7-9-9 dc, * Pleat to the left (= 2 dc) – see explanation above - 4 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-7-8-9-10-11 times, work Pleat to the left and finish with 2 dc , continue with * Pleat to the right (= 2 dc) – see explanation above - 4 dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 6-7-8-9-10-11 times, finish with Pleat to the right, 9-9-7-7-9-9 dc and 6 dc (front band) = 108-120-128-140-156-168 dc. Now work 3 rows with dc in all sts. Divide the piece and complete each piece separately.
Right front piece: Work dc in the first 30-33-35-38-42-45 dc on row, turn piece and work dc on return row. Now continue in Pattern and front band as before. When piece measures 20 cm inc 1 dtr/dc at side – see Increasing tip. Repeat the inc when piece measures 35 cm = 32-35-37-40-44-47 dtr/dc. When piece measures approx 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm dec for armhole at side at the end of every row with dtr – see Decreasing tip: 3 dtr 1 time, 2 dtr 0-1-2-2-3-4 times and 1 dtr 1-1-1-3-5-5 times = 28-29-29-30-30-31 dtr. When piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm – adjust so that the last row is a row with dtr – do not work the outermost 13-14-14-14-14-14 dtr at side (= shoulder) = 15-15-15-16-16-17 dtr on collar. Continue in Pattern and front band as before. When collar measures 9-9-9-10-10-11 cm from shoulder, cut the thread.
Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored. Beg with dc from the side on the last 30-33-35-38-42-45 dc on row.
Back piece: Work dc on the remaining 48-54-58-64-72-78 dc. Turn piece and work 1 more row with dc. Now continue in Pattern. When piece measures 18 and 23 cm (different measurements to front pieces in order not to create a notch) inc each side as described for front piece = 52-58-62-68-76-82 dtr/dc. When piece measures approx 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm dec for armhole each side as described for front piece = 44-46-46-48-48-50 dtr/dc. When piece measures approx 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm (only 1 row with dc + 1 row with dtr left, adjust to front piece) work 1 row dc on 13-14-14-14-14-14 dtr each side only (do not work the middle 18-18-18-20-20-22 dtr = neckline). Work 1 row with dtr and cut the thread, piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.
Sleeve: Crochet 38-38-40-40-43-45 ch (includes 4 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 5 mm and 1 thread Silke-Tweed and 1 thread Alpaca (= 2 threads).
Work first row as follows: 1 dtr in 5th ch from hook, * skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-*. Note: for size S, M and XXL finish row with 1 dtr in each of the last 2 ch (instead of the last 4 ch) = 28-28-30-30-32-34 dtr. Turn piece. Continue in Pattern as described for body piece. When piece measures 10 cm inc 1 dc/dtr each side by working 1 extra dc/dtr in the last but one dc/dtr each side on every 7-5-5-3.5-3.5-3 cm a total of 6-8-8-10-10-11 times = 40-44-46-50-52-56 dc/dtr. When piece measures 48-47-47-46-44-43 cm – less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder - dec for sleeve cap each side on every row with dtr – see Decreasing tip: 5 dtr 2 times, then 2 dtr each side until piece measures approx 56-56-57-57-58-58 cm, cut the thread.
Assembly: Sew shoulder seams, edge to edge with neat sts. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seam, edge to edge with neat sts. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline.
Border: Crochet a border round the entire opening and round sleeve edges on crochet hook size 5 mm with 1 thread Vivaldi as follows: *1 dc, 1 ch, skip approx 0.5 cm *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Sew on buttons to left front piece, the lower button approx 20 cm from bottom edge, and the rest with approx 6-7 cm between each. Button buttons in crochet border.