DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 109-49
Size:
Scarf: appr. 18 x 85 cm [7” x 33½”]
Hat: One-size

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
300 g color no 01, off-white

DROPS crochet hook size 8 mm [L/11] – or size needed to obtain 9 tr = width 10 cm [4”]

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HAT
Crochet tip: Always replace first sc on round with 1 ch, first dc with 3 ch and first tr with 4 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in first sc/dc/tr on round.

Decreasing tip: Dec 1 sc as follows:
Work 1 sc without pulling thread through sts (= 2 sts on hook). Work next sc and now pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.

HAT
Work 3 ch on hook size 8 mm [L/11] with Snow and form a ring with a sl st.
See Crochet tip!
Round 1: 5 sc in ring.
Round 2: 2 dc in each sc = 10 dc.
Round 3: 4 ch (= 1 tr) + 1 ch + 1 tr in first dc, 5 ch, * skip 1 dc, 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr in next dc, 5 ch *, repeat from *-*, finish round with skipping the last dc, 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Round 4: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, in all 1-ch-loops from previous round work 6 tr (= 1 shell) and in all 5-ch-loops from previous round work 1 sc – crochet this sc through dc from round 2 as well - *, finish round with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 5 tr-groups (= 5 shells).
Round 5: 4 ch (= 1 tr), * 7 ch, skip shell, 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr in sc between 2 shells *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 7 ch, 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr + 1 ch in the last sc and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Round 6: Work sl st to the middle of the first ch-loop, * 1 sc in the middle of 7-ch-loop – crochet this sc down between tr from shell on round 4 as well - 6 tr in the first ch-loop, 1 sc in the middle of the 3 tr, 6 tr in the second 1-ch-loop *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Round 7: 9 ch, * skip shell, 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr in sc between 2 shells, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 tr + 1 ch in the last sc and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Round 8: Work sl sts to the middle of ch-loop, in all 5-ch-loops work 1 sc in the middle of loop – crochet this sc through stitch from round 6 as well -, and in all 1-ch-loops work 6 tr. Finish round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (= 10 shells).
Round 9: 10 ch, * skip shell, 1 tr + 1 ch + 1 tr in sc between 2 shells, 6 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 tr + 1 ch in the last sc and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Round 10: Work sl sts to the middle of ch-loop. In all 6-ch-loops work 1 sc in the middle of loop - crochet this sc down between tr in shell from round 8 as well - and in all 1-ch-loops work 6 tr, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round.
Round 11: 1 c in each tr from previous round = 60 sc.
Round 12: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc tog – see Decreasing tip! *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
Round 13: 1 sc in each sc.
Round 14: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
Round 15 to 17: 1 sc in each sc, cut the thread.

SCARF
Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2.

Scarf: Worked in 2 pieces, sewn tog in the middle afterwards.

First piece: Crochet 18 loose ch with Snow (includes 1 ch to turn with) on crochet hook size 8 mm [L/11].
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, skip 1 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch, 3 sc in next sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch, skip 2 ch, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch, 3 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch, skip 1 ch, 1 sc in the last ch = 17 sc.
Now continue in M.1 until piece measures approx 28 cm [11”] – adjust to a full repeat – and then work M.2. After M.2 piece measures approx 42 cm [16½”].

Second piece: Like first piece until piece measures approx 17 cm [6 ¾”]. Now divide piece in the centre (creating an oblong hole to put the other piece through). Work row to the centre = 9 sts, turn piece, and work rows back and forth on these 9 sts for 10 cm [4”], cut the tread. Repeat on the other side. Hole now measaures 10 cm [4”]. Work 1 row on all sts (= 18 sts) and now work M.2 as described for first piece.

Assembly: Sew tog the 2 pieces mid back, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc
symbols = sc in ch-loop from previous row and through 4th tr from shell 2 rows below – see Fig. 1.
symbols = sl st
symbols = tr
symbols = shell: work 7 tr in the same ch
symbols = this row is explained in pattern, beg on row 2.
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Laroche wrote:

Bonjour, Pour l'écharpe j'ai terminé M1 et M2 et je suis arrivée à la 2e partie où il est indiqué de reprendre la 1re partie. On peut donc fermer la 1re partie déjà crochetée ? Et reprendré tout à zéro pour la 2e partie ? Merci d'avance.

16.03.2023 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Laroche, pour la 2ème partie, crochetez comme pour la 1ère partie, vous assemblerez ensuite les chainettes de base ensemble au milieu de l'écharpe; vous pouvez aussi crocheter directement dans les mailles en l'air de la 1ère partie pour éviter une couture. On procède ainsi pour que les extrémités (M.2) de l'écharpe soient identiques. Bon crochet!

17.03.2023 - 08:41

country flag Hannah Pitt wrote:

I’m stuck on round 8 - is it right that I need to do the dc into a stitch on round 6 or does it mean 7? If so, which stitch? Is there a video to help with more than just rounds 1-6? Thanks in advance

02.01.2023 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pitt, correct, you have to insert the crochet in the stitch 2 rounds below, ie the dc should be worked in the 4th treble from round 6 = in the middle of the shell. Ie as you crocheted the dc on round 6 in the treble from round 4 (see time code 13:30 in the video). Happy crocheting!

03.01.2023 - 09:19

country flag Patty wrote:

Hello. I just made the hat and would love to make the scarf. Im just having a little issue with M2. I dont see where you start or how many chains to to start it. I know M.2 is the second piece right?Thank for your help.

30.11.2020 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patty, the scarf is worked in two parts sewn together on mid back, you first crochet the first piece casting on 18 ch and work 17sc (US-Terms) then work M.1 until piece measures 28 cm and work then M.2 until piece measures 42 cm in total, work then the 2nd piece the same way except you will divide piece into 2 parts and work them spearate for 10 cm, and then finish 2nd piece as 1st piece and sew both pieces together. Happy crocheting!

01.12.2020 - 09:01

country flag Capelle wrote:

Bonjour , je suis nouvelle et aimerait crocheter cette belle écharpe ..et pas le bonnet . Combien de pelotes akaska faut il commander ? Il est indiqué la quantité pour les deux ouvrages , merci pour vos explications. Superbe site et fils de très belle qualité.

03.11.2019 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Capelle, nous avons ici uniquement la quantité pour l'ensemble et pas pour chaque pièce. Utilisez notre convertisseur pour connaître la quantité nécessaire en Alaska (on prendra le fil Alaska en double pour avoir la même tension qu'1 fil Eskimo). Bon crochet!

04.11.2019 - 16:49

country flag Shelly Stephens wrote:

I need help on Rd 6. Is there a chart or diagram I can see.

26.12.2018 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shelly, look at this video, hopefully it will helps you. Happy crocheting!

29.12.2018 - 19:14

country flag Gillet Françoise wrote:

Je vous remercie de votre réponse aussi rapide .Ce site est vraiment sérieux et offre tant de joyaux plus jolis les uns que les aures.Je recommence les rangs du béret et merci encore.

17.07.2017 - 15:23

country flag Françoise Gillet wrote:

Bonjour; J'aimerais vraiment faire ce bonnet et je ne comprens pas les rangs suivants la suite de la vidéo (rangs 7,8,9 etc) auriez vous un diagramme pour faire le bonnet ? je vous remercie

17.07.2017 - 07:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gillet, suivez attentivement les explications des rangs 7 à 9, on va répéter les rangs 5 et 6 mais avec un nombre de mailles en l'air différent et plus de coquilles à chaque fois. Bon crochet!

17.07.2017 - 09:46

country flag I Lugt-Brom wrote:

Ik ben bezig met dit patroon maar loop vast. Want t/m de 4e toer gaat t prima. Maar vanaf toer 5 loopt t patroon fout. Als je dan haakt wat er staat verdubbelt t aantal mosseltjes. En wanneer je dan bij toer 8 komt heb ik 20 mosseltjes en geen 10 zoals t patroon aangeeft. Dus kom je op teveel uit. Kunt u mij aub helpen? Heb het al zeker 5 keer gelezen en herlezen en uitgehaald. Vr gr Irma

25.11.2015 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Beste Irma. Ik heb de eerste 8 toeren gehaakt en ik krijg wel 10 mosseltjes. In toer 8 haak je 1 dstk+1 l+ 1 dstk in elke v = 10 keer 1-l-boogje = 10 mosseltjes na toer 8

02.12.2015 - 14:52

country flag Nuria wrote:

Aun siguiendo el patrón no consigo a partir de la 4 vuelta que me quede bien. He seguido todas las explicaciones pero se me queda como un gorro , no como la preciosa boina de la foto. Y, no es la primera vuestra que hago..... Un saludo y gracias

12.11.2015 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Nuria, para que la boina tenga la caída necesaria y no se asemeje a un gorro debes cuidar mucho la tensión de los pts. Se me ocurre que puedas estar trabajándolos muy prietos. Comprueba que la tensión es la indicada y prueba a trabajar más flojo.

15.11.2015 - 10:40

country flag Nadège ZAFFINO wrote:

Bonjour , j'essai de faire le bonnet du modèle DROPS 109-49 et malheureusement je suis bloqué sur le 4ème tour pourrais je avoir un schéma du bonnet ? Ou une vidéo explicative ? Ou n'importe quoi qui puisse me débloquer car ce modèle me plait vraiment et je souhaite réellement le réussir .... Merci par avance de votre aide ! Cordialement . Nadège

20.03.2015 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Zaffino, au 4ème tour du bonnet, crochetez 1 mc dans le 1er arceau puis 1 coquille de 6 DB (crochetez 6 DB dans la même maille) dans chaque arceau d'1ml du tour précédent (= entre les 2 DB du tour 3), et entre chaque coquille, crochetez 1 ms mais en piquant dans la B du 2ème rang (en prenant en même temps l'arceau de 5 ml du tour 3). Bon crochet!

20.03.2015 - 16:29