DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 102-45
DROPS design: Pattern X-001-h
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Size: XS - S - M
The measures of the dog:
Chest width: approx 28/32 – 40/44 – 48/52 cm
Back length: approx 24 – 32 - 40 cm
Examples of sizes of dogs: XS = Chihuahua, S = Bichon Frise, M = Cocker Spaniel

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-150-250 g colour no. 11, deep red.

Or use
DROPS Nepal from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-150-250 g colour no 2920, orange

DROPS double pointed needle and short (40 cm) circular needle size 4.5 mm – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS Crochet hook size 4 mm.
DROPS buttons no. 535 or 629: 4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Pets Dog Sweatersrib
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Increasing tips: Inc. inside the 2 garter sts each side. Inc. as follows: pick up 1 st from previous row incorporate the sts into the Rib as going along.
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Coat:
Knit the coat round on double pointed needles from the neck and down – switch to circular needle when enough stitches have been increased. Divide piece for top and bottom piece and work back and forth. Cast on 40-55-70 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with DROPS Alaska or DROPS Nepal. Knit Rib = K3 / P2 for 4-6-8 cm. On the next row inc. all the 3 K sts to 4 K sts in the Rib = 48-66-84 sts. When the piece measures 6-9-12 cm split the work as follows for the forelegs: Put the first 10-16-22 sts on a thread or a stich holder – make sure to have 4 K sts at beg and end of thread or stitch holder.

Top piece:
= 38-50-62 sts. Complete knitting back and forth on double pointed needles. Continue the Rib with 2 garter sts each side – at the same time inc. 1 st each side on every other row – see increasing tips a total of 16-12-18 times = 50-74-98 sts (the piece measures approx. 11-19-27 cm). Continue the Rib until the piece measures a total of 12-20-28 cm. Then cast off for 1 button hole each side as follows: Cast off the mid 2 K sts in the outermost K part of the Rib and on the returning row cast on 2 new sts at the same place. Repeat when the piece measures 16-25-34 cm. When the piece measures a total of 20-28-37 cm cast off 3 sts each side on every other row a total of 5-7-9 times = 20-32-44 sts. Then cast off the remaining sts when the piece measures approx. 24-34-44 cm (incl. of the neck).

Bottom piece:
Put sts from thread or stitch holder back on needle, in addition pick up 2 sts each side of the back of the garter sts knitted on the top piece = 14-20-26 sts. Knit Rib back and forth with 2 garter sts each side . Cast off when the bottom piece measures approx. 12-17-23 cm. Sew 4 buttons onto the bottom piece, 2 each side so they fit with the button holes at the top piece.

TIPS: Try the coat on the dog, if it is too wide sew only 2 buttons at the middle of the bottom piece and button up both side of the top piece on to the same button.

Crochet edge:
Crochet with hook size 4 mm along the casting off edge at the top piece as follows: Join the yarn with 1 sl st, crochet 1 ch, skip approx. ½-1 cm, * 1 dc, crochet 1 ch and skip approx. ½-1 cm * crochet from *-* to the end of the row, finish with 1 dc – make sure that the crochet row is not too tight/loose; – make sure this row is not too tight. Turn piece, *crochet 4 ch, skip over approx. 1 cm, 1 dc around/ in next chain/dc*, crochet from *-* to the end of the row, finish with 1 dc in the first sl st from previous row. Cut and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.11.2023
The pattern has been reviewed and rephrased.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Jocelyne Martin wrote:

Allô, si je comprends bien, la partie du ventre doit avoir au moins 17 cm de longueur pour le modèle XS étant donné que la deuxième série de boutonnière est à 16 cm de longueur. L’indication de 12 cm de hauteur avant de rabattre est donc en erreur selon ce que je comprends sinon on ne peut coudre les boutons pour correspondre à la 2e série de boutonnière. Merci.

10.03.2024 - 04:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Martin, les 12 cm du côté ventre sont mesurés sans la première partie, autrement dit sans le col, juste la partie tricotée en allers et retours. Bon tricot!

11.03.2024 - 08:40

country flag C Laroche wrote:

Si mes chiens ont 35 cm & 37 cm de tour de poitrail. Quel grandeur devrais-je faire 28/32 cm ou bien 40/44 cm ??

28.12.2023 - 00:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Laroche, vous pouvez peut-être essayer la 2ème taille, et ajuster l'emplacement des boutons pour resserrer si besoin (les côtes ne seront alors pas trop étirées). Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 09:27

country flag Georgina Richard wrote:

Bonjour j’aimerais faire un pull pour yorkchire 2kilos en commansans par l’encolure et avec la laine 🧶fine de 27 m : 10 cm igor🐾🐾 vous remercie pour son futur pull

21.12.2023 - 19:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Richard, retrouvez tous nos modèles en taille XS ici, peut-être que l'un d'eux pourra vous inspirer. Bon tricot!

22.12.2023 - 08:19

country flag Frau Pfefferminz wrote:

Ich habe 2 Chihuahua , einer ist sehr Klein ,der andere etwas propper. Also habe ich den Pulli 2mal gestrickt 1mal xs und 1x S und beide sitzen Phänomenal ,ich bin begeistert.Die Anleitung ist sehr verständlich, leicht nach zu stricken.

30.11.2023 - 01:07

country flag LE LONG Bernawette wrote:

Bonjour Je me suis inpirèe du modèle 102-45 pour mon chien chihuahua de 3 KILO. J en ai composé une vidéo dans laquelle je site votre nom. Puis je l utiliser ? Merci d avance

31.10.2022 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le Long, tout à fait, toutefois, vous devez mentionner qu'il s'agit de notre modèle et mettre le lien des explications sur notre site dans votre description; vous ne pouvez pas reproduire/recopier le modèle original en ligne, autrement dit les explications complètes + les diagrammes ne peuvent être dans la vidéo. Vous ne pouvez pas utiliser nos modèles pour promouvoir d'autres marques de laine/d'aiguilles/de boutons + les infos du copyright en bas de page. Taguez nous sur les réseaux pour que l'on puisse voir votre vidéo. Bon tricot!

31.10.2022 - 16:10

country flag Corinne EUSTACHE wrote:

Bonjour et tout d'abord merci pour ce joli modèle. Il me semble qu'il y a une erreur sur le tuto en français : ce n'est pas 1 mais 2 mailles qu'il faut rabattre pour faire une boutonnière et en remonter deux ensuite au rang suivant au même emplacement, comme indiqué...et il me semble aussi que ce serait plus simple d'écrire qu'il fautplacer cette boutonnière à 3 mailles du bord, à moins que je ne me trompe ...Bien cordialement.

21.09.2021 - 15:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Eustache, la correction de la boutonnière a été faite, merci pour votre retour. Ces boutonnières se font dans la 1ère section en maille endroit de chaque côté (1 x au début + 1 x à la fin = 2 boutonnières sur le même rang). Bon tricot!

23.09.2021 - 09:03

country flag Bernadette Gendebien wrote:

Je voudrais trouver un modèle qui se tricote à deux aiguilles

12.02.2021 - 08:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gendebien, vous trouverez ici, tous nos modèles pour animaux, - d'autre part, cette leçon vous donnera quelques explications sur les aiguilles circulaires. Bon tricot!

12.02.2021 - 11:35

country flag Janette Kruegel wrote:

In the top section is there a mistake? It says: see increasing tip a total of 16-12-18 times But I think it’s supposed to say 12-16-18. Otherwise the math doesn’t work out. I’m making the smallest size and was confused here

15.10.2020 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kruegel, there is a typo in the English pattern you are supposed to increase 6 times and not 16 times, thanks for your feedback, pattern will be edited (= 38 sts + 6x2 sts= 50 sts). Happy knitting!

16.10.2020 - 08:42

country flag Petra Lang wrote:

Ich würde gern für meinen kleinen Mischling stricken, leider passt keines der vorgegeben Maße. Hals 25 cm, Bauch 35 cm, Rücken 37 cm. Wie viel Wolle brauche ich da? Die Anleitung versuche ich dann entsprechend anzupassen

13.10.2019 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Lang, die neuen Garnmenge wird also von den Änderungen abhängen, Ihr DROPS Laden kann Ihnen gerne damit weiterhelfen, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.10.2019 - 10:27

Sharon wrote:

I don't understand placement of buttonhole. I have 2 purl stitches either end of row. How many stitches do I knit across row. And how many stitches do I cast off to create button hole

25.08.2018 - 00:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Sharon, You work 1buttonhole on each side of the piece, casting off the middle 2 stitches in the outermost knitted section on each side. On the next row, cast on 2 new stitches over the cast off stitches. Happy knitting!

25.08.2018 - 07:55