DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 104-31
Size: XS/S – M/L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements at chest: 31½”-37 ¾”-44”-50 3/8”-56½”
Full length: 28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 ¾”-31½’’

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
Color no 04, gray: 800-900-1000-1100-1200 g

DROPS circular needles size 6 mm [US 10] (80 and 40 cm [31½ and 15 3/4’’]) – or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting gauge.

DROPS buffalo horn button, no 536: 5-5-5-6-6 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 15sts 28 rows in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’]

Pattern: See diagram M.1. Diagram is seen from RS. English translations for wording in diagrams are given at the bottom of pattern and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in diagram.

Back and front pieces: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles from mid front. Cast on 142-166-190-214-238 sts (includes 1 front band sts on each side) on needles size 6 mm [US 10] with Alaska. Knit 1 row garter st from WS.
Knit next row as follows: 1 edge sts, Rib = K4 / P4, finish with 4 K and 1 edge sts.
When piece measures 12 cm [4 3/4’’] knit 2 rows garter sts – at the same time dec on 1st row evenly to 122-146-170-194-218 sts. Insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker after 31-37-43-49-55 sts on each side.
Continue as follows seen from RS:
1 edge sts, 4 reverse stockinette, M.1 (= 8 sts), 4 reverse stockinette, * P4 on each row, K8 sts on each row *, repeat from *-* 7-9-11-13-15 times in total, P4 on each row, 4 reverse stockinette, M.1 (= 8 sts), 4 reverse stockinette and 1 edge sts.
When piece measures 48-50-51-53-54 cm [19”-19 ¾”-20”-21”-21 ¼”] inc 1 sts on each side of both marking threads on every other row 7-6-5-4-3 times in total = 150-170-190-210-230 sts – P new for sizes XS/S, XL and XXXL and K for sizes M/L and XXL. When piece measures 53-54-55-56-57 cm [21”-21 ¼”-21 5/8”-22”-22½”] split at marking thread or stitch marker and complete each part separately.

Back piece = 74-84-94-104-114 sts. Continue with P over P and K over K. When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78 cm [27½”-28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 ¾”] bind off middle 28-28-30-30-32 sts for neck = 23-28-32-37-41 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80 cm [28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 ¾”-31½’’].

Left Front piece = 38-43-48-53-58 sts. Continue with pattern as before. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68 cm [23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25 ¼”-26”-26 ¾”] bind off 6-6-7-7-8 sts mid front towards neckline. Continuing bind off at neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 23-28-32-37-41 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 72-74-76-78-80 cm [28 3/8”-29 1/8”-30”-30 ¾”-31½’’].

Right front piece: Knit like left piece but reversed.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Right front Edge: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles. Pick up 100 to 116 sts (dividable with 8 + 4) along right front piece on circular needle size 6 mm [US 10] with Alaska. Knit 1 row garter st from WS.
Knit next row as follows: K 4 sts on each row, Rib = P4/ K4 until 8 sts are left, knit these P4 and K4 on each row. When Rib measures 4 cm [1½’’] bind off for buttonholes 5-5-5-6-6 evenly, place top buttonhole approx 1 cm [3/8”] from edge and bottom buttonhole approx 15 cm [6’’] from bottom edge.
1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row. Continue Rib until it measures 7 cm [2 3/4’’], bind off loosely with K over K and P over P.

Left front Edge: Knit like right, but with no bind off for buttonholes.

Sleeve edge: Pick up 64 to 72 sts (dividable with 8) around armhole on small circular needle size 6 mm [US 10]. P1 round, then knit Rib = K4 / P4 until edge measures 7 cm [2 ¾”]. Bind off loosely K over K and P over P.

Collar: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles. Pick up 124 to 132 sts (also over front edges) on circular needle size 6 mm [US 10] with Alaska. K1 row from WS, next row from RS as follows:
K4 sts, Rib = K4 / P4 until 8 sts remains on row, K 8.
Next row (WS): K4 sts, Rib = P4 / K4 until 8 sts remains on row, P 4 and K 4.
Continue with 4 sts each side in garter and rem sts in established rib. Bind off loosely with K over K and P over P when collar measures 30-30-32-32-34-34 cm [11 ¾”-11 ¾”-12½”-12½”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”].

Pocket: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles.
Cast on 24-24-24-28-28 sts on circular needles size 6 mm [US 10] with Alaska. Knit 1 row from WS. Continue as follows – seen from RS:
P4 sts (reversed stockinette), M.1 (= 8 sts), P4 sts (reversed stockinette st), K4 (stocking st) and P4-4-4-8-8 sts (reversed stockinette st).
Knit until piece measures 13-13-13-15-15 cm [5 1/8”-5 1/8”-5 1/8”-6”-6”-] – at the same time on last row dec 4 sts over cable by knitting 8 sts tog 2 by 2 = 20-20-20-24-24 sts. Continue like before but P4 sts over cables on all rows. Bind off when pocket measures 27-27-27-29-29 cm [10 5/8”-10 5/8”-10 5/8”-11 3/8”-11 3/8”].
Knit 1 more pocket, but opposite, i.e. with cable on other side.
Fold top 7 cm [2 3/4’’] double towards WS and sew onto back of pocket. Sew pockets onto front piece of jacket right over Rib so pattern fits on top of pattern of jacket.

Sew in buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.02.2009
Front- and Back piece:
Continue as follows seen from RS:
1 edge sts, 4 reverse stockinette, M.1 (= 8 sts), 4 reverse stockinette, * P4 on each row, K8 sts on each row *, repeat from *-* 7-9-11-13-15 times in total, P4 on each row, 4 reverse stockinette, M.1 (= 8 sts), 4 reverse stockinette and 1 edge sts.

Pocket: Knit piece back and forth on circular needles.
Cast on 24-24-24-28-28 sts on circular needles size 6 mm [US 10] with Alaska. Knit 1 row from WS. Continue as follows – seen from RS: P4 sts (reversed stockinette), M.1 (= 8 sts), P4 sts (reversed stockinette st), K4 (stocking st) and P4-4-4-8-8 sts (reversed stockinette st).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = Slip 4 sts onto cable needle to front of piece, K 4 K 4 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Katrin Nijkamp wrote:

Hallo, ich würde gern wissen, was "rechte Maschen auf Links" bedeutet. Darunter kann ich mir leider gar nichts vorstellen, besonders wenn man das gleich nach dem Maschenanschlag tun soll, wenn weder rechte noch linke Maschen bereits vorhanden sind. "Rechts auf rechts" bzw. "links auf links" bedeutet, daß eine Art Rippenmuster entsteht? Vielen Dank schonmal für die Hilfe, Gruß Katrin

17.08.2020 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Nijkamp, wenn Sie eine Reihe rechts auf Links beschrieben ist, stricken Sie eine Rückreihe mit nur rechten Maschen - bei dem Diagram stricken Sie die Maschen von dem Zopf glatt rechts = rechts bei den Hinreihen und links bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.08.2020 - 08:39

country flag Angela Scott wrote:

I hate knitting with circular needle can you knit on conventional needles

26.07.2020 - 16:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Angela, We recommend using circular needles as there are so many stitches, they risk falling off the straight needles. Happy knitting!

27.07.2020 - 07:19

country flag Lisa wrote:

Bonjour, J’arrive à l’augmentation d 1 maille de chaque côté sur les 2 marqueurs , 6 fois tous les 2 rangs je n ai pas la totalité de 170 m . Je fais la taille M. j obtiens 158 m . Après bien sûr la diminution auparavant Pour avoir les 146 m . Pouvez vous me dire ce que je dois faire . Merci .

09.02.2020 - 09:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lisa, vous devez augmenter 1 m de chaque côté de chacun des 2 marqueurs, autrement dit, vous allez augmenter 4 mailles à chaque fois, soit 146 m + (6 x 4 augmentations) = 170 m. Bon tricot!

10.02.2020 - 09:08

country flag Rosy wrote:

Bonjour, franchement ce n'est pas sérieux... j'ai déjà cherché dans d'autres modèles mais rien ne correspond. Je ne comprends pas pourquoi un modèle est retiré du jour au lendemain sans prévenir quelques jours avant pour que l'on puisse l'imprimer et le conserver. Je suis extrêmement déçue.

03.02.2020 - 10:57

country flag Rosy wrote:

Je vous joins plus d'informations sur ce modèle que je souhaiterais pouvoir terminer : il est noté Drops Extra 0-51, et le lien que j'avais sauvegardé sur mes favoris et qui fonctionnait très bien ne fonctionne plus, et le modèle est introuvable sur le site . Merci pour votre aide !

31.01.2020 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Rosy, nous sommes au regret de vous informer que ce modèle n'est plus disponible. En espérant que vous trouverez votre bonheur parmi nos nombreux autres modèles disponibles sur notre site, bon tricot!

03.02.2020 - 10:45

country flag Rosy wrote:

Bonjour, je vous écris sur ce modèle car celui que je tricotais a disparu de votre site. C'est un pull col V à côtes chevauchant à la base, violet, en Alaska je crois. j'avais laissé un commentaire regrettant qu'il n'y ait pas de schéma. Je l'avais mis sur mes favoris de mon PC, mais maintenant il m'affiche "erreur 404". Je ne peux pas continuer mon ouvrage sans le modèle. Pouvez-vous m'aider, Je l'ai cherché dans tout votre site en vain... je suis désespérée. Merci !

31.01.2020 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Rosy, il est fort probable que ce modèle soit un modèle ancien qui a été retiré de notre site. Vous trouverez tous nos modèles femme avec encolure V ici. Bon tricot!

03.02.2020 - 09:26

country flag Anne Louise Aamand wrote:

Når den nederste rib er strikket, skal der flere gange på hver pind strikkes “4 m glatstrik med vr ud”. Er det en almindelig vrangmaske? Andre masker strikkes bare “4 m som strikkes vr på hver p”. Jeg har kun strikket 1 pind med snoninger og vil helst ikke fortsætte, før jeg er sikker på det her. Mange hilsner Anne Louise

06.08.2018 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne Louise. Ja det stemmer: 4 masker glattstrikk med vr ut betyr vrangmasker (sett fra retten – rettmasker sett fra vrangen). «4 masker som strikkes vr hver pinne» og «8 masker som strikkes r hver pinne» er det samme som riller, men de er motsatte av hverandre (starter med vrang og starter med rett – sett fra retten) Om du ser nøye på bildet av genseren vil du se dette rillemønsteret. God fornøyelse.

21.08.2018 - 14:13

country flag Marilyn Failla wrote:

Thank you. I did not look at the diagram and was only following the written instructions. It will probably make sense once I do.

17.12.2016 - 20:38

country flag Marilyn Failla wrote:

I am not sure I understand you - Is it possible for you to write your comments into the pattern directions? Thank you.

15.12.2016 - 00:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Failla, if you look at diagram M.1, there are 8 squares in the width and 1 square = 1 st x 1 row - M.1 will be worked over 8 sts. Happy knitting!

15.12.2016 - 09:34

country flag Mariyn Failla wrote:

I am at the point on the back and front pieces after working the Rib 4K/4P and edge stitches, and after knitting the 2 rows garter stitch while decreasing. The instructions now say "1 edge sts, 4 reverse stockinette, M.1 (=8 sts). This is why I am confused because by my count that makes 6 stitches not 8. What am I not understanding? Thank you.

12.12.2016 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Failla, M.1 is worked over 8 sts (= Slip 4 sts onto cable needle to front of piece, K 4 K 4 from cable needle). Happy knitting!

13.12.2016 - 08:53