DROPS Ull-Flamé
DROPS Ull-Flamé
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 12-13
DROPS design: Modell nr M-007-bn
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HAT:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years
Materials: DROPS Ull-Flamé from Garnstudio,
50-50-50 g color no 20, black/white
and use: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio,
50-50-50 g color no 53, dark gray
DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm and 8 mm/US 2or3 and 11.


SCARF
Size: approx 14x120 - 16x140 - 19x160 cm / 5½"x47" - 6 1/4"x55" - 7½"x63"
Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio,
200-200-250 g color no 02, off white
DROPS straight needles size 6 mm/US 10.

MITTENS:
Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years
Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g color no 01, off-white
50-50-50 g color no 05, black
DROPS double pointed needles no 3 mm/US 2or3


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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Ull-Flamé
DROPS Ull-Flamé
100% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.60 $ /50g

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
HAT:
Gauge: 11 sts x 15rows on needles size 8 mm / US 11 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat *-*

Hat: Cast on 104-114-124 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm/US 2or3 and Karisma. Work rib for 12 cm/4 3/4", change to Ull-Flamé and double pointed needles size 8 mm/US 11. Continue in stockinette st - at the same time on 1st round K2 tog around = 52-57-62 sts. On next round dec 2 sts evenly = 50-55-60 sts.
When hat measure 14,5-15-15,5 cm/5 3/4"-6"-6 1/4" place 5 markers around with 10-11-12 sts between each marker. Now dec on right side of all markers by K2 tog, on every 4th round a total of 3-3-3 times and then on every other round a total of 3-4-5 times = 20 sts left on needle.On next round K2 tog around, cut the yarn, pull yarn through rem sts, pull tight and fasten.
Hat measure approx 25-27-29 cm/9 3/4"-10½"-11½" in height.
Fold up rib edge.






SCARF:
Gauge: 14 sts x 28 rows on needles size 6 mm / US 10 in Fishermans rib = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Fishermans rib:
1st row (RS): K1 edge st, * K1, 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to purl*, repeat *-* until 2 sts rem on needle, end with K1 and K1 edge st.
2nd row (WS): K1 edge st, * 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to purl, K next st and yo tog *, repeat *-* until 2 sts rem on row, end with 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to purl and K1 edge st.
3rd row (RS): K1 edge st, * K next st and yo tog, 1 yo, slip 1 st as if to purl *, repeat *-* until 2 sts rem on row, end with K next st and yo tog and K1 edge st.
Repeat row 2-3.

Scarf: Loosely cast on 19-23-27 sts needles size 6 mm / US 10 with off white Alaska . Work fishermans rib - see explanation above.
When work measure 120-140-160 cm /47"-55"-63" bind off loosely.



MITTENS:

Knitting gauge: 23 sts x 32 row on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.3, work all of the pattern in stockinette sts.

Decrease tips:
Dec as follows before the marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after the marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

Mitten:
Cast on 44-48-52 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with black and work Rib as follows: 7 rounds in black, 1 round in off white, 2 rounds in black, 1 round in off white, 2 rounds in black, 1 round in off white 2 rounds in black.
K 1 round in black at the same time dec 4 sts evenly = 40-44-48 sts.
Now measure from here onwards!
Continue in stockinette as follows:
1 round in black, 1 round in off white and 1 round in black.
Work the next round as follows:
diagram M.2 (= 5 sts), diagram M.1 – Beg. at the arrow for the size you wish (= 15-17-19 sts, after M.1 continue with black), M.2 (= 5 sts) and then M.3 over 15-17-19 sts.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of M.2 at one side (= thumb gusset).
Continue to inc.1 sts each side of the gusset on every other round: 4-5-5 times = 9-11-11 thumb sts – incorporate new sts into M.3 as going along (Make sure the pattern is the same on the thumb as it is in the palm of the hand).
When the piece measures 4-5-6 cm / 1½''-2''-2 3/8'' put the thumb sts on a stitch holder and on the next round cast on 1 new st behind the thumb sts = 40-44-48 sts – continue with M.2 at the side above the thumb.
When the piece measures 9,5-12-15 cm / 3 3/4"-4 3/4"-6" insert 1 marker in the middle of M.2 each side. Continue to dec. 1 st each side of the markers on every round – see dec tips: 8-9-10 times = 8 sts left on needle.
Cut the yarn, pull through remaining sts and sew tight.
The total gloves measures approx. 17-20-23 cm / 6 3/4"-8"-9".

Thumb:
Put 9-11-11 sts from the holder back on needle and pick up addition 3-5-5 sts behind the thumb = 12-16-16 sts.
Work diagram M.3 – continue so the pattern continues from where sts were put on stitch holder.
When the thumb measures 3,5-4,5-5,5 cm / 1 1/4"-1 3/4"-2 1/4" K2 tog around.
Cut the yarn, pull through remaining sts and sew tight.

Make another mitten, but mirrored.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = black
symbols = off white
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Ingebeth Melhus wrote:

Tommelen er alt for trang til 12-13 år. Jeg la opp 22masker.

27.02.2024 - 19:44

country flag Caroline wrote:

Bonjour, J'essaye de tricoter les moufles en jacquard en taille 3-5 ans. J'ai tricoté les côtes avec des aiguilles numéro 3. Il n'est pas écrit de passer aux aiguilles 2,5 quand on commence le jersey. Est-ce une erreur ? Merci.

22.01.2021 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Caroline, en fait, on n'a pas besoin d'aiguilles 2,5 pour les moufles, elles ont été retirées des fournitures, merci pour votre retour. Les moufles se tricotent entièrement avec les aiguilles 3. Bon tricot!

22.01.2021 - 16:06

country flag Selina wrote:

In der Anleitung steht Ich soll in der Mitte von M2 einen Makierungsfaden anbringen, verstanden. Dann weiter auf beiden Seiten alle R abketten : 1M 8 Mal =8M. Den Teil verstehe ich nicht. Wird nicht wie beim Socken Stricken zusammengestrickt? Lg aus Berlin

17.12.2020 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Selina, also ja die Abnahmen werden beidseitig von den mittleren Maschen von M. 2 gestrickt, dh 2 maschen rechts zusammen mit Natur, die mittelre Masche wie in M.2, 1 M abheben, 1 re, die abgehobene M darüber ziehen mit natur. und so bei den 2 Markierungen = 4 M werden pro Runde abgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.12.2020 - 17:15

country flag Selam wrote:

How do I do this= "Insert 1 marker in the middle of M.2 at one side (= thumb gusset). Continue to inc.1 sts each side of the gusset on every other round: 4-5-5 times = 9-11-11 thumb sts – incorporate new sts into M.3 as going along (Make sure the pattern is the same on the thumb as it is in the palm of the hand)." if I start at m2 from 5 it will increase to 7 sts how do I incorporate it to M3 when M1 comes next? ? please help!

13.01.2019 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Selam, you increase after the first sts in off white, and before the last st in off white = on each side of the middle sts. The sts in each end are black, the 2 sts either side of the middle sts are white (black circle). So you inc 1 sts on each side of the middle sts and then work these 3 sts in M.3 leaving 1 black and 1 white sts in each side. So only the middle st and the increases are worked in M.3. Happy knitting!

14.01.2019 - 11:45

country flag Selam wrote:

How do I do this= "Insert 1 marker in the middle of M.2 at one side (= thumb gusset). Continue to inc.1 sts each side of the gusset on every other round: 4-5-5 times = 9-11-11 thumb sts – incorporate new sts into M.3 as going along (Make sure the pattern is the same on the thumb as it is in the palm of the hand)." if I start at m2 from 5 it will increas to 7 sts how do I incorporate it to M3 when M1 comes next? ? please help!

09.01.2019 - 22:18

country flag Maja Lauritsen wrote:

Forstår ikke opskriften. Når man begynder mønster M2. Derefter M1= start ved pilen for ønsket str. efter M1 strikkes der færdig med sort. ???? øhhh er det så ikke M3 over 15-17-19 masker. (det sorte indgår vel i M1 afhængig af str?) og derefter udtagning til tommeltot. Midt i M2 skal der tages ud på hver side af tommelfingermaske. forstår jeg godt men skal jeg så strikke en halv M1? Syns billedet viser et fint M2 mønster hele vejen op. Kan jeg simpelthen ikke fatte.

24.11.2018 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maja. Den informasjonen refererer til når M.1 er ferdig i høyden. alstå når mønsteret er ferdig strikket, fortsettes med sort til ferdige mål. Du strikker slik: M.2, M.1, M.2, M.3, der M.2 er sidene av votten, M.1 er mønsteret oppå hånden og M.3 er mønsteret inni hånden. God fornøyelse.

26.11.2018 - 12:00

country flag Inger Lill Jenssen wrote:

Skjønner ikke dette med tommel, Sett 1 merketråd midt i M.2 i den ene siden (= tommel-m). Videre økes det på hver side av tommel-m på hver 2.omg: 1 m 4-5-5 ganger = 9-11-11 tommel-m - de økte m strikkes inn i M.3 fortløpende (det skal være samme mnst på tommelen som inni hånden). Når arb måler 4-5-6 cm settes tommel-m på 1 tråd og på neste omg legges det opp 1 ny m bak disse m = 40-44-48 m på p - fortsett med M.2 oppover i siden over tommelen. Hvordan skal jeg gjøre dette?

09.11.2013 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Her ser du hvordan:

Knitted thumb on a mitten from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

12.11.2013 - 10:05

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

Det stämmer att det blir ojämnt mönster på M.3 men det har att göra med att du måste passa in de maskor som du ökar in i M.3, se förklaring på mönster.

20.06.2011 - 13:25

country flag Caroline wrote:

Jag stickar vantarna i storlek 3/5 år. Men mönsterna och maskerna passar inte ihop. Framsidan är 5m plus 15m plus 5 m bred, det återstår 15m för baksidan mönster M3 men M3 är bara 4m bred. Och då blir det ett ojämt mönster över 15m. Jättetaksam för en förklaring. Tack!

10.06.2011 - 13:25

country flag Victoria wrote:

Jag förstår inte hur man ska göra tummen så att mönstret blir som det ska. Jättetacksam för tips och en mer utförlig förklaring av hur man ska göra.

24.11.2006 - 13:23