DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Green Leaf

Knitted jacket with hood, jumpsuit and tube socks in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes for baby and children, 1 month to 4 years.

DROPS Baby 14-3
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Jacket: 200-200-250 (250-300) g color no 7300, lime

Jumpsuit: 150-150-200 (200-250) g color no 7300, lime

Socks: 50-50-50 (100-100) g color no 7300, lime

DROPS circular needle, pointed needles and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2

DROPS wooden button no 513: 8-9-9- (9-9) pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 6.75 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.00CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 26 sts x 34 rows on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or 2 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter sts: Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front band from the right side as follows: bind off 3rd st from the edge, on next row make a yo. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 6, 11 and 16 cm / 2 3/8",4 3/8",6 1/4"
Size 6/9 months: 6, 10, 15 and 19 cm / 2 3/8",4",6",7½"
Size 12/18 months: 6, 11, 16 and 21 cm / 2 3/8",4 3/8",6 1/4",8 1/4"
Size 2 years: 7, 13, 18 and 23 cm / 2 3/4",5 1/8",7",9"
Size 3/4 years: 7, 13, 19 and 25 cm / 2 3/4",5 1/8",7½",9 3/4"
Note! Also make a buttonhole on neckband.

JACKET:
Back piece: Cast on 62-70-78 (86-94) sts (includes 1 edge st each side, worked in garter sts throughout) with Alpaca on pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and knit 6 rows garter sts. Now work diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side.
When piece measures 16-17-19 (20-22) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7½'' (8''-8¾'') bind off for armhole in beg of each row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2 (1-3) times and 1 st 3 times = 46-54-62 (70-70) sts.
Continue M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 25-27-30 (32-35) cm / 9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/4" (12½"-13 3/4") bind off the middle 22-24-26 (30-30) sts for neck work each side separately.
Dec 1 st on next row towards neckline = 11-14-17 (19-19) sts left on each shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures approx 26-28-31 (33-36) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13"-14 1/4") – make sure to bind off after a whole pattern repeat.

Right front: Cast on 38-38-46 (46-54) sts (includes 1 edge st at side and 5 front band sts towards mid front) with Alpaca on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2.
Knit 6 rows garter sts. Work next row as follows from the right side: 5 edge sts in garter st, diagram M.1 over the next 32-32-40 (40-48) sts and finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
Continue the pattern – remember buttonholes, see above.
When piece measures 16-17-19 (20-22) cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7½'' (8''-8¾'') bind off for armhole at side as described for back piece = 30-30-38 (38-42) sts.
Continue M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st towards armhole.
When piece measures 21-23-26 (28-30) cm / 8 1/4"-9"-10 1/4" (11"-11 3/4") bind off 11-8-13 (11-15) sts towards mid front for neck and then bind off to shape the neckline in beg of every row starting from neck: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 11-14-17 (19-19) sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures approx 26-28-31 (33-36) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13"-14 1/4" – make sure to bind off after a whole pattern repeat.

Left front: Cast on and knit as right front, but mirrored. Note, no buttonholes!
Make sure to work pattern mirrored.

Sleeve: Cast on 42-42-42 (50-50) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) with Alpaca on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and work 3 cm / 1 1/8'' garter sts.
Then work diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st each side.
When piece measures 6-6-6 (8-8) cm / 2½"-2½"-2½" (3"-3") inc 1 st each side, repeat on every 3-2-1.5 (2-2) cm / 1 1/8"-3/4"-½" (3/4"-3/4") a total of 4-6-8 (8-10) times = 50-54-58 (66-70) sts – incorporate new sts in pattern as you go along.
When piece measures 18-18-20 (25-29) cm / 7"-7"-8" (9 3/4"-11 3/8") bind off for sleeve cap in beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2 (2-3) times, 1 st 4-3-2 (2-2) times and 2 sts each side until piece measures 21-22-24 (29-33) cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9½" (11 3/8"-13"). Now bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and then bind off remaining sts, piece measures 22-23-25 (30-34) cm / 8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4" (11 3/4"-13 3/8").

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams

Neck: Pick up approx 70 to 90 sts round the neck (also over front bands) with Alpaca and needle size 2.5 mm / US 1 or2. Knit 4 rows garter sts, at the same time making a buttonhole after the first row above the other buttonholes on front band. Note! If opting for no hood, bind off now from wrong side.
Sew sleeve seams within 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 edge st.
Sew on buttons.

Hood: Continue as follows: Knit 1 row, at the same time casting on 12 new sts each side towards mid front and inc evenly to 112-117-123 (128-133) sts.
Continue in garter sts back and forth over all sts.
Bind off when hood measures approx 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4" (10 5/8"-11"). Fold double and sew seam at top of hood.
Fold the outermost 12 sts towards right side and attach at bottom to front and back pieces.



JUMPSUIT:
Garter sts (in the round on double pointed needles): K 1st round, P 2nd round
Garter sts (back and forth): Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips: All dec are done from the right side.
After 4 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.
Before 4 garter sts: K2 tog.

Left leg: Cast on 36-42-48 (52-58) sts with Alpaca using double pointed needles size 2.5 mm/US 1or2 and work 4 cm / 1½'' garter sts.
Work next row as follows: work stockinette sts, at the same time inc 10 sts evenly on round = 46-52-58 (62-68) sts.
Insert a marker on the inner side of the leg when piece measures 1 cm / 3/8'' from the garter sts.
Now inc 1 st on each side of the marker, and repeat on every 2-2-3 (3-4) round a total of 14-15-16 (18-19) times = 74-82-90 (98-106) sts.
When piece measures 14-17-20 (25-30) cm / 5½"-6 3/4"-8" (9 3/4"-11 3/4"), working back and forth on needles from marker on inner side of leg (= slid, which makes it easier to put both legs in on the same circular needle afterwards).
Cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 76-84-92 (100-108) sts.
When piece measures 18-21-24 (29-34) cm / 7"-8 1/4"-9½" (11 3/8"-13 3/8") bind off 2 sts each side, bind off in beg of next 2 rows = 72-80-88 (96-104) sts.
Put the piece aside and work the other leg.

Right leg: As left leg.

Body: Put both legs in on the same circular needle = 144-160-176 (192-208) sts and insert markers mid front and mid back. Now dec 1 st on each side of the marker mid front, repeat on every other round a total of 6 times = 132-148-164 (180-196) sts.
Insert a marker each side = 33-37-41 (45-49) sts between all 4 markers.
When piece measures 41-49-56 (66-74) cm / 16 1/8"-19 1/4"-22" (26"-29 1/8") purl 1 round, knit 2 rounds, purl 1 round and knit 2 rounds.
Then bind off 6 sts each side for armhole (= 3 sts on each side of markers at sides) and finish front and back pieces separately.

Front: = 60-68-76 (84-92) sts. Work diagram M.1 with 4 sts each side in garter sts. At the same time, bind off 1 st for armholes in beg of each row – see decreasing tips: 8 times each side = 44-52-60 (68-76) sts.
Continue M.1 with 4 sts each side in garter sts.
When piece measures 48-57-65 (75-84) cm / 19"-22½"-25½" (29½"-33") bind off the middle 8-12-12 (16-16) sts for neck and work each side separately. Continue bind off for neck in beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 11-13-17 (19-23) sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 53-62-70 (81-90) cm / 21"-24 3/8"-27½" (32"-35½").

Back: = 60-68-76 (84-92) sts. Work M.1 and bind off for armhole as described for front piece. When piece measures 51-60-68 (79-88) cm / 20"-23 5/8"-26 3/4" (31"-34 5/8") bind off the middle 16-20-20 (24-24) for neck and work each side separately. Continue bind off for neck in beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time = 11-13-17 (19-23) sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 53-62-70 (81-90) cm / 21"-24 3/8"-27½" (32"-35½").

Assembly:
Neck: Pick up approx 45-65 sts from the right side along neckline on front piece with Alpaca and needle size 2.5mm/US 1or2. Knit 6 rows garter sts back and forth on needle and then bind off from wrong side. Pick up approx 30-40 sts with Alpaca and needle size 2.5mm/US 1 or2 along neckline on back piece and knit 6 rows garter sts. Bind off from wrong side.

Button band: Pick up 14-16-20 (22-25) sts from the right side along right shoulder on front piece and knit 3 rows garter sts. Knit next row as follows from the right side: Knit 2 sts, bind off 2 sts, knit 6-8-12 (14-18) sts, bind off 2 sts and knit 2 sts.
Cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on next row.
Bind off from the wrong side when edge measures 2 cm / 3/4''.
Repeat on left shoulder.
Pick up 14-16-20 (22-25) sts from the right side along right shoulder on back piece and knit 2 cm / 3/4'' garter sts. Bind off from wrong side. Repeat on left shoulder.
Sew slit together on inner side of both legs up to the bound off sts and sew the opening between legs from mid front to mid back.
Sew on buttons on both shoulders on back piece.



SOCKS:
Foot length: approx 10-11-12 (14-15) cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4" (5½"-6")

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 44-48-52 (56-60) sts with Alpaca and double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 or2. Work 2 cm / 3/4'' rib.
Then work 1 round, shifting the rib 1 st to the left as follows: over (K2, P2) it will be (P1, K2, P1). *Work 3 rounds with K over K and P over P, on 4th round shift the rib 1 st to the left*, repeat from *-* until piece measures 18-19-20 (22-23) cm / 7"-7½"-8" (8 3/4"-9").
On next round P2 tog all purled sts.
Work 2 rounds with K over K and P over P.
Work 1 round while K2 tog all knitted sts.
Work 2 rounds with K over K and P over P.
Work 1 round while K2 tog around = 11-12-13 (14-15) sts.
Cut the yarn and pull through the remaining sts, sew away the yarn end.
The sock measures approx 20-21-22 (24-26) cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" (9½"-10 1/4").

SOFT TOY: see pattern 14-30
BLANKET: see pattern 14-19

Diagram

symbols = knit from RS, purl from WS
symbols = purl from RS, knit from WS
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Liina Kaev wrote:

Kas kapuutsile tuleb lisaks olemasolevale 90 s luua 133 s või peab kokku olema 133?

02.03.2022 - 22:51

country flag Nora wrote:

Hola no entiendo cundo voy rematar la sisa remato 6 puntos en cada extremo y los demas puntos de la espalda y frente los dejo en espera? Pra hacer el frente y la espalda

19.11.2021 - 05:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Nora, se cierran 6 pts a cada lado (3 en la parte del delantero y 3 en la parte de la espalda). Luego, cada parte se trabjaa por separado. Por ejemplo se dejan los puntos del delantero en espera y se trabaja la espalda y luego se recogen los puntos del delantero y se trabajan estos.

21.11.2021 - 19:33

country flag Nora wrote:

En la pierna cuando se empieza a tejer de ida y vuelta cuantos cm se tejen más talla 2 años

07.11.2021 - 20:34

country flag Robin Cook wrote:

Is the jacket body worked in 1 pc? If so, why do you cast off at the BEGINNING of the rows for the armhole openings?

09.08.2021 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Robin, no, the jacket is knitted in pieces, the pattern tells you to knit the back, and the two sides separately. Happy Knitting!

10.08.2021 - 03:59

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Petite information, concernant les devant. Ils sont trop larges, monter 33 mailles au lieu de 38 mailles. Le nombre de mailles des morceaux sont bons.

25.03.2021 - 22:39

country flag Gisele wrote:

Are you still shipping orders to the United States?

24.03.2020 - 18:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gisele, please contact our DROPS stores here for any further informations because of the special circumstances. Happy knitting!

24.03.2020 - 18:11

country flag Roberta wrote:

Sto facendo il maglioncino ma no ho capito come vanno fatti gli aumenti all'inizio del cappuccio. Vanno distribuiti tutti nel primo ferro o fatti uno alla volta lateralmente? (non mi riferisco ai 12 punti da aumentare su ogni lato ma ai rimanenti aumenti). Vi ringrazio molto

03.04.2019 - 00:30

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Roberta. Gli aumenti vanno distribuiti tutti nel primo ferro. Buon lavoro!

03.04.2019 - 06:50

country flag Kaidi wrote:

Kampsuni käeaugu kahanduste osas ei klapi kordade arv allesjäävate silmuste arvuga. Originaalmustri keelest ma küll aru ei saanud, kuid numbrite järgi on seal seljaosa 2 silma kahandused 1-1-1(1-3) korda, mis sobib kirjasolevate allesjäävate silmuste arvuga.

16.01.2018 - 13:11

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Scusatemi, capisco che rischio di diventare noiosa, ma ho fatto tanti vostri modelli e non ho mai avuto tanti dubbi...Sto lavorando il davanti e voi dite di eseguire 4 asole, ma nella foto ci sono 5 bottoni di cui in effetti l'ultimo andrebbe a chiudere sotto il collo! Sono confusa..scusate ancora e grazie!!

08.07.2017 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lelletta. Quando lavora il davanti, apre 4 asole come indicato. Sotto il paragrafo Confezione, trova indicato di aprire la quinta asola dopo il primo ferro del bordo intorno al collo. Buon lavoro!

08.07.2017 - 07:30

country flag Lelletta wrote:

Scusatemi sono ancora io.....mi spiegate cosa significa: Aggiustare dopo un diamante intero????

04.07.2017 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Lelletta. Sarebbe un quadrato intero del motivo. Quindi dopo aver lavorato 4 ferri con 4 m dir/4 m rov. Buon lavoro!

06.07.2017 - 07:42