DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 7-5
DROPS Retro 1980-1993

Size: S/M – M/L

Materials: DROPS Alaska from Garnstudio
1000-1100 g, colour no 02, off-white

DROPS pointed needles size 3 and 5.5 mm - or size needed to get 15 sts in moss st = width 10 cm, and 1 cable + 1 bobble pattern repeat + 1 cable = approx width 26 cm. DROPS buttons, 6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Double moss st: Row 1: *K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Row 2: K over K and P over P. Row 3: K over P and P over K. Row 4: K over K and P over P. Repeat row 1-4.

Cable pattern: Worked on 12 sts.
Row 1-3: P2, K8, P2.
Row 4: P2, slip 4 sts on cable needle behind piece, K4, K4 from cable needle, P2.
Row 5-10: P2, K8, P2.
Repeat row 1 – 10.

Bobble pattern: Worked on 21 sts.
Row 1, and all rows from RS: P all sts.
Row 2, WS: work 3 sts in 1 st (= K1, P1, K1), P4, * 3 sts in 1 st, P1 *, repeat from *-* 6 times, P3, 3 sts in 1 st.
Row 4: P3 tog (these sts are also P tog), 3 sts in 1 st, P3, * P3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *repeat from *-* 5 times, P3 tog, P3, 3 sts in 1 st, P3 tog.
Row 6: 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st, P3, *K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 4 times, K3 tog, P3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st, K 3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st.
Row 8: * K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st*, repeat from *-* 2 times, P3, * K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 3 times, K3 tog, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K 3 tog *, repeat from *-* 2 times.
Row 10: * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 2 times, 3 sts in 1 st, P3, *K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 2 times, K3 tog, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 2 times, 3 sts in 1 st.
Row 12: * K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 3 times, P3, K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog, P3, *3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 3 times.
Row 14: * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 3 times, P3, 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st, P3, *K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 3 times.
Row 16: * K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 2 times, K3 tog, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 2 times, 3 sts in 1 st, P3, *K3 tog, 3 sts in1 st *, repeat from *-* 2 times, K3 tog.
Row 18: * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 2 times, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 3 times, 3 sts in 1 st, P3, *K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 2 times.
Row 20: K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st, K3tog, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 4 times, K3 tog, P3, K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog.
Row 22: 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K3 tog *, repeat from *-* 5 times, 3 sts in 1 st, P3, K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st.
Repeat row 4 to 23.
--------------------------

Back piece:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 86-90 sts on needle size 3 mm and work 5 cm rib. Change to needle size 5.5 mm and P 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 24-30 sts evenly = 110-120 sts. Now continue in pattern from RS as follows: 5-7 moss sts, 12 cable sts, 21 bobble pattern sts, 12 cable sts, 10-16 moss sts, 12 cable sts, 21 bobble pattern sts, 12 cable sts, 5-7 moss sts. Continue in pattern like this.
When piece measures 71 cm cast off the middle 16-18 sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 1 st 1-2 times. Cast off remaining 43-46 sts on shoulder when piece measures 73 cm.
Right front piece: Cast on 46-48 sts on needle size 3 mm and work 5 cm rib. Change to needle size 5.5 mm and P 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 9-12 sts evenly = 55-60 sts. Continue in pattern as follows from RS: 5-7 moss sts, 12 cable sts, 21 bobble pattern sts, 12 cable sts, 5-8 moss sts. Continue in pattern like this.
When piece measures 67 cm cast off to shape the neckline towards mid front on every other row: 8-10 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times. Cast off remaining 43-46 sts on shoulder when piece measures 73 cm.

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Cast on 40-42 sts on needle size 3 mm and work 5 cm rib. Change to needle size 5.5 mm, P 1 row from WS, at the same time inc 15-13 sts evenly = 55 sts. Continue in pattern from RS as follows: 5 moss sts, 12 cable sts, 21 bobble pattern sts, 12 cable sts, 5 moss sts. At the same time inc 1 st each side on every 3rd and 4th row alternately 23 times = 101 sts. Cast off when piece measures 47-45 cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams. Pick up approx 122 sts along left front piece on needle size 3 mm and work 3 cm rib, cast off. Repeat along right front piece, but after 1 cm make 6 buttonholes evenly distributed. 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Cast off when rib measures 3 cm. Pick up approx 90 sts round neckline and work 2 cm rib, cast off. Set in sleeves and sew side and sleeve seams. Sew on buttons.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 10.06.2014
under Cable pattern (was missing P2):
Row 4: P2, slip 4 sts on cable need)le behind piece, K4, K4 from cable needle, P2.
Updated online: 02.01.2023
Bobble pattern: Row 8: * K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st*, repeat from *-* 2 times,....
Updated online: 09.01.2023
Boble pattern: Row 8: K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st*, repeat from *-* 2 times, P3, * K3 tog, 3 sts in 1 st *, repeat from *-* 3 times, K3 tog, P3, * 3 sts in 1 st, K 3 tog *, repeat from *-* 2 times.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 7-5

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, Ce modèle ne propose de diagramme à la fin des explications, pour réaliser les différents points texturés de ce veste. Est-ce normal et est-ce que c'est possible de les obtenir par mail par exemple ou rajouter dans le cadre des corrections lorsqu'on a constaté une erreur dans les explications ? Merci.

19.02.2024 - 09:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, c'est un modèle publié il y a de nombreuses années, et à cette époque, les diagrammes étaient moins systématiques, autrement dit, nous n'avons que les explications écrites ; suivez-les pas à pas, vous pouvez par ex vous entraîner sur un échantillon au préalable si besoin. Et si vous avez une question, n'hésitez pas à utiliser cet espace. Bon tricot!

19.02.2024 - 15:15

country flag Steffi Cook wrote:

I've just unravelled this project for the third time. I can't seem to make the bobble pattern work... I'm committed to trying again. Could you confirm that the bobble pattern is correct? Thank you.

20.11.2023 - 19:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cook, bobble pattern is correct, note that the number of stitches will be different depending on the rows, so that you can get helped with markers to mark the different pattern and be sure you are doing right. Happy knitting!

21.11.2023 - 08:54

country flag Steffi Cook wrote:

Cable pattern - should that not be in stocking stitch when you’re looking at the finished article? The pattern says row 1-3 p2 k8 p2, but should row 2 not be k2, p8, k2? Thank you

17.11.2023 - 07:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Cook, correct, you will work the cable as follows, seen from RS: P2, K8, P2 and from WS: K2, P8, K2. Happy knitting!

17.11.2023 - 08:44

country flag Leloup Irma wrote:

Mon commentaire est trop long alors je signale qu il y a des erreurs de traduction ligne 6,8,et 20.J ai consulté l original en norvegien et c'est uniquement une alternance de 37m et 35m et non ligne 8 33m comme vous m avez répondu le 23 décembre. C est le point d astrakan

07.01.2023 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Leloup, effectivement, il fallait lire 3 m env au lieu de 2 m env, correction faite, merci pour votre retour. Bonne continuation!

09.01.2023 - 12:01

country flag Irma Leloup wrote:

Bonjour, j ai enfin compris la nope( bien plus facile que la nope française) . Par contre tjs un problème avec la ligne 8 où je trouve 34m alors qu il doit y avoir 33m. On écrit r 8: * 3m ens à l' end,tricoter 3 fois la même m, répéter de *_* 2 fois, où se trouve le deuxième asterix?.. je pense que la différence de calcul se trouve dans cette partie...Sinon en résumé je trouve 37,35,35,34?,37,35,37,35,37,33,37.Pourriez vous me confirmer tt ceci,merci bcp et bonne fin d année.

26.12.2022 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Leloup, effectivement, il manquait cette astérisque là: * 3 m ens à l'end, tricoter 3 fois la même m*, répéter de *-* 2 fois, - la correction a été faite, merci. Votre décompte est juste. Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 09:09

country flag Leloup Irma wrote:

Tjs en difficulté pour faire des nopes et la boutique Kalidou me renvoie vers vous.Une fois créé les 3 mailles dans une maille faut il retourner l ouvrage plusieurs fois et tricoter les 3 mailles à l envers et l endroit et terminer la nope en la fermant pour ravoir une seule maille.Qd je suis exactement les explications à la fin du rang 2 par exemple j ai 37 mailles mais aucune nope.merci de votre réponse

23.12.2022 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Leloup, les nopes sont formées en tricotant les mailles alternativement 3 fois au 1er rang sur l'envers puis en tricotant ces 3 m ensemble au rang suivant sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 08:44

country flag Rikke wrote:

Hej, Når man strikker snoningsmønsteret skal de 2 første og 2 sidste masker så altid strikkes vrang, så det bliver rillestrik? Eller skal man strikke dem vrang på retsiden og ret på vrangsiden?

27.09.2021 - 13:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Rikke. Vrang fra både retten og vrangen, Da kommer fletten bedre frem :) mvh DROPS Design

28.09.2021 - 14:52

country flag Inez wrote:

Hallo, ik heb al veel patronen gemaakt van Drops. Graag wil ik ook de oudere patronen maken, zoals deze. De oudere patronen zijn er alleen in kleine maten. Kunnen die worden aangepast?

10.04.2021 - 19:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inez,

Helaas zijn deze er inderdaad alleen in kleinere maten en het ligt ook niet in de planning om deze aan te passen. Hopelijk kun je een leuk patroon vinden uit de nieuwere modellen of eventueel de maten aanpassen door meer steken op te zetten.

11.04.2021 - 13:30

country flag Sandra wrote:

There are errors for the bobble pattern- row 6 p3tog should read p3.row8 p2 should read p3 and row 20 after repeat *4 times k3 tog should read 3 sts in 1. I made these changes and it worked as I was short stitches and diamond was not centred. I also found cable in ss worked better. Hope that helps other knitters

04.02.2021 - 00:20

country flag Clara wrote:

Hej, Jag förstår inte vilka varv som är räta och vilka som är aviga. På flätmönstret ser det ut som att de jämna varven stickas från rätsidan eftersom att det är på dem som man använder sig av hjälpstickan, men på bubbelmönstret ser det ut som att de ojämna varven är de som stickas från rätsidan. Så hur är det tänkt?

03.01.2021 - 16:51