DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 86-5
SCARF:

Measurements:
approx. 20 x 120 cm [8" x 47 1/4"]

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
150 gr nr 0100, natural

DROPS 4.5 mm [US 7] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 18 sts x 23 rowswith 2 strands and stockinette = 10 x 10 cm /4 x 4 inches.

Pattern: See chart 1 and 2. The pattern is seen from the right side.

SCARF
Cast on 43 sts with 2 strands of yarn and knit 4 rows garter st. Knit the next row as follows (right side row): K 8, sl 1, K 2 tog, psso, *K 9, sl 1, K 2 tog, psso*, repeat *-* 1 time, then K 8. here are now 37 sts. Purl the next row, but K 3 sts at each side. On the next row knit Pattern 1 over all sts.
When the piece measures approx. 119 cm - adjust to end after a complete repeat, knit Pattern 2 and then bind off loosely.
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GLOVES:
Sizes: (XS/S) M/L

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
(100) 100 gr nr 0100, natural

DROPS 2.5 mm [US 0] double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 25 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See the charts. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Right glove: Cast on (112) 126 sts on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit picot edge as follows: *K7, pass the 6th st, then the 5th st, then the 4th st over the 7th st = 4 sts remain on needles*, repeat from *-* around row = (64) 72 sts. Then knit Pattern 3 – on last rows of the pattern dec (4) 6 sts evenly distributed = (60) 66 sts.
Read the entire next section before knitting.
Pattern: Knit Pattern 4 until the piece measures (11) 12 cm, and then knit Pattern 5, decreasing (14) 12 sts evenly distributed on the first row of Pattern 5 = (46) 54 sts.
After Pattern 5 knit the next row as follows: K (23) 27 sts (= palm), place a marker (= side), K (2) 4 sts, Pattern 6 (19 sts), K (2) 4 sts, place a marker (= side). Continue in pattern as established.
Thumb: On the 2nd row of Pattern 6 (the piece measures approx. (13) 14 cm) inc for thumb: inc 1 st at each side of the 2nd st on row, every other row (5) 6 times = (11) 13 thumb-sts – inc 1 st by pulling up and knitting a st from the previous row.
When the piece measures (18) 20 cm (it is very important that the piece is at least (5) 6 cm long from the beginning of the thumb incs to here) put the (11) 13 thumb-sts on a st holder. Then cast on 1 new st behind the st holder and join = (46) 54 sts, continue the pattern as before.
When the piece measures approx. (22) 23 cm – adjust to end after a complete repeat of Pattern 6 – knit stockinette st over all sts. When the piece measures (23) 24 cm put the first and the last (19) 22 sts on the row on a st holder, then knit the little finger with the (8) 10 sts remaining on needles.
Little finger: Cast on (5) 4 new sts toward sts on st holder = (13) 14 sts, divide sts onto 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. 5-6 cm. Then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.
Put sts on st holder back on needles and pick up 2 sts at little finger = (40) 46 sts; join and knit 3 rows stockinette st over all sts. Put sts on st holders: (20) 23 sts for palm on 1 st holder and (20) 23 sts upper hand on 2nd st holder.
Ring finger: Put (7) 8 sts from each st holder back on needles, cast on 2 new sts toward middle finger = (16) 18 sts. Divide sts onto 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (7) 8 cm. Then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.
Middle finger: Put (6) 7 sts from each st holder on needles, pick up (3) 4 sts at ring finger and cast on 3 new sts toward index finger = (18) 21 sts. Divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (8) 9 cm. Then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.
Index finger: Put the remaining (14) 16 sts on needles, pick up (3) 4 sts at middle finger = (17) 20 sts; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (6) 7 cm. Then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.
Thumb: Put the (11) 13 sts on st holder onto needles and pick up (7) 8 sts behind these sts = (18) 21 sts. Divide sts onto 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st for approx. (5) 6 cm, then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.

Left glove: Knit the same as the right, reversing all shaping. After Pattern 5 knit the next row as follows: K (2) 4 sts, Pattern 6 (19 sts), K (2) 4 sts, place a marker (= side), K (23) 27 sts (= palm), place a marker (= side) and inc for thumb at each side of the next to last st on row.

_______________________________________________________________

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = 1 yo
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Kata wrote:

Onko ohjeessa virhe M2 kohdassa? Ohjeen mukainen silmukankierto tekee reiän (aloituksen aina oikeaa 4 kerrosta) kerroksien väliin, eikä päättelyn jälkeen reuna näytä samalta kuin aloitus. Vaikka päättelee löysästi.

06.10.2022 - 22:09

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour. j'ai tricoté l'écharpe mais le le diagramme M.2 ne correspond pas à la vague tricotée au début. Pouvez-vous me donner les explications pour avoir la même vague au début et à la fin de l'écharpe ? Merci. Cordialement.

02.03.2022 - 17:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, je suis vraiment désolée, nous ne sommes pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chaque modèle à chaque demande, dans ce modèle, on termine par M.2, les 2 extrémités de l'écharpe seront ainsi effectivement légèrement différentes. Bon tricot!

02.03.2022 - 17:46

country flag Gabriella wrote:

Buongiorno, sto terminando la sciarpa. Ho 37 punti e dovrei aumentarli per finire come all'inizio ma non mi trovo perché se diminuisco 2 maglie e ne aumento 2 i punti restano 37. Come faccio a fare l'ondina come all'inizio? Grazie

29.10.2021 - 22:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Gabriella, l'onda si ottiene con la chiusura lenta, le maglie non vanno aumentate. Buon lavoro!

30.10.2021 - 14:17

country flag Oppskrift Drops 86-5 wrote:

Hei. Jeg strikker skjerfet med hullmønster. På slutten av arbeidet strikket jeg diagrammet M.2, men det ble ikke make som begynnelsen av arbeidet, ikke bølge kant. Kan det være noe feil i oppskriften? Er takknemlig for rask tilbakemelding. Mvh Anne-Britt N. Lavik

19.02.2021 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne-Britt, det bør bølge sig når du har lukket maskerne løst af :)

24.02.2021 - 15:43

country flag Louise Robert wrote:

Bonjour je voudrais faire le foulard plus large, au moins un dessin de plus, de combien faut j'augmente de mailles... C'est une multiple de combien ? Merci de me répondre

28.01.2021 - 06:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, montez 12 mailles en plus pour chaque motif (= 10 m) en plus en largeur et tricotez ensuite le 1er rang bien comme indiqué en répétant de *-* autant de fois en plus = vous diminuez 2 m par motif pour créer les pointes, et il restera alors 10 m pour chaque motif + 3 m point mousse de chaque côté + 1 m end en fin de rang pour la symétrie. Bon tricot!

28.01.2021 - 09:57

country flag Linda wrote:

Dank voor uw antwoord op mijn vraag over aanpassing van het sjaalpatroon 86-5. Het is prima gelukt zo !

04.10.2019 - 07:40

country flag Linda wrote:

Ik wil de shawl met patroon 86-5 dubbel of driedubbel zo breed maken. Ho pak ik dat aan? Het patroon klopt niet meer als ik tweemaal of driemaal 43 steken opzet en vervolgens het patroon volg.

30.09.2019 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Linda,

Als je de sjaal 2 keer zo breed wilt hebben, moet je eerst de 3 kantsteken in ribbelsteek aan beide kanten + nog 1 steek van de 43 steken af trekken. Dan kom je op 36 (3 patroonherhalingen van 12 steken in de breedte)

Dus dan zou je 36 x 2 +7 op moeten zetten = 79 steken.

03.10.2019 - 18:49

country flag Linda Bastiaans wrote:

Goedenavond, ik ben de shawl 86-5 aan het breien en mijn vraag hierover is: brei ik alle teruggaande naalden averecht? Alvast dank voor uw antwoord. Linda

30.09.2019 - 18:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Linda,

In het telpatroon zijn steeds de oneven naalden de naalden op de goede kant en de even naalden op de verkeerde kant. (Alle naalden zijn dus aangegeven in de telpatronen. Op de verkeerde kant brei je dus de meeste steken averecht, maar een aantal steken recht (symbool met kruisje)

03.10.2019 - 13:20

country flag Carole wrote:

Bonjour, je suis à finaliser mon écharpe, soit tricoter M2, j’ai fait les rgs 1 et 2 de M2 en point mousse endroit, je suis rendue au 3e qui est identique au Rg 7 de M1, et les 4 et 5 rgs M2 sont à l’endroit. Je suis débutante et mon interrogation est-ce qu’à la fin j’aurai l’effet de vagues comme au début , les jetés du rg 3 font des trous ???. J’ai commencé mon ouvrage sur 43 m et je fini sur 37 est-ce normal.

22.01.2019 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, oui les jetés du 3ème rang de M.2 doivent être tricotés à l'endroit au rang suivant, ils vont former des trous. On commence effectivement avec 43 m et on diminue après les 4 rangs point mousse du début, on tricote ensuite M.1 sur les 37 m restantes jusqu'à ce que l'écharpe mesure 119 cm environ, on tricote M2 et on rabat les mailles. Bon tricot!

22.01.2019 - 16:07

country flag Caroline wrote:

Bonjour, je me demande s'il n'y a pas une erreur pour les gants en taille M/L. Il est écrit qu'il faut monter 116 mailles. Je me demande si ce n'est pas plutôt 126 mailles, car 116 n'est pas un multiple de 7 et je ne vois pas comment on peut arriver à 72 mailles après le rang de picots. Merci pour votre aide.

02.12.2016 - 14:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Caroline, vous avez raison, il faut bien monter 126 m et non 116, le modèle a été corrigé, merci. Bon tricot!

02.12.2016 - 15:46