DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Hanna

DROPS Cardigan, headband and socks in Karisma Superwash with stars and colorful borders.

DROPS 52-1
CARDIGAN:

Sizes: Small (Medium-Large)
Finished Measurements: 114 (122-130) cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
500 (550-600) g col. 53, coal gray
200 (200-250) g col. 01, natural white
50 (50-50) g col. 36, bottle green
50 (50-100) g col. 48, wine red
50 (100-100) g col. 52, mustard
50 (50-50) g col. 11, orange

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

7 DROPS tin buttons

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch.
The arrows on the Pattern 1/Pattern 4 and Pattern 2 charts indicate where to begin for different sizes. Pattern 3 is identical for all sizes.

Border: Knit 3 cm stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge, measure the work from here), 3 cm stockinette stitch.

Body: Cast on 255 (271-291) sts (including 1 edge st at each side) on smaller circular needles with coal gray and knit the border back and forth on the needle. Change to larger circular needles; join, increasing 3 sts at the center front - these sts + 2 edge sts (= 5 sts) are for the steek and are not knitted into the pattern = 253 (269-289) sts + 5 steek sts. Place a marker at one side of the steek sts. Start Pattern 1 at the arrow on the chart after the 5 steek sts at the center front. After Pattern 1 knit Pattern 2 - start at the arrow on the chart after the 5 steek sts at the center front. When the work measures 34 (33-41) cm, work 126 (134-144) sts for the front, cast on 5 sts for the armhole steek, work 127 (135-145) sts for the back, cast on 5 sts for the armhole steek. The steek sts are not knitted into the pattern.
Front = 126 (134-144) sts + 5 center steek sts, back = 127 (135-145) sts. When the work measures 52 (52-60) cm, bind off the center 28 (30-30) sts + 5 steek sts in the front for the neck. Knit the work back and forth on needle. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times. At the same time, when the work measures approximately 54 (54-62) cm (if necessary, adjust to obtain a half or whole repeat of Pattern 2 - approximately 5 cm of the work remains), knit Pattern 3. At the same time, when the work measures 57 (57-65) cm, bind off the center back 39 (41-41) sts for the neck and then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 3, the work measures approximately 59 (59-67) cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 50 (52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles with coal gray and knit border. Change to larger needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit Pattern 1 and inc 1 st each side of marker 30 (31-31) times:
Size S: every 4th row
Sizes M + L: alternately every 3rd and every 4th row
= 110 (114-114) sts. After Pattern 1 repeat Pattern 4 to finished dimensions. When the work measures 47 (46-46) cm, knit 2 cm reverse stockinette stitch for a seam allowance over the cut edge on the body, bind off.

Assembly: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and at the center front. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 st from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 st from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and at the center front. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approximately 110-120 sts along the left front on smaller needles with coal gray and knit border, bind off. Repeat along the right front, but after 1 cm make 7 buttonholes evenly distributed on the row (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row). Remember to make corresponding buttonholes on the folding edge. Fold the edge over double against the wrong side and sew. Pick up approximately 100-116 sts around the neck on smaller needles with coal gray and knit 2.5 cm stockinette stitch, change to natural and knit 1 row stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), knit 1 row stockinette stitch, change back to coal gray and knit 2.5 cm stockinette stitch, bind off. Sew the sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: sew alternately a stitch in the last row on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a stitch on the body after the machine seam. Turn the cardigan inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand. Fold all edges over against the wrong side and sew. Sew on the buttons.




HEADBAND:

Sizes: Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Circumferance: 52 - 57 cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
50 (50) g col. 53, coal gray
+ the remaining pattern colors left over from sweater

DROPS 3 mm double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 23 sts & 32 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch.

Headband: Cast on 120-132 sts with coal gray; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 19 rows stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), work Pattern 5, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), knit 2 rows stockinette stitch with coal gray, bind off. Sew cast-on and bind-off edges together.




SOCKS:

Sizes: European shoe sizes 38-41 (41-44)
total length: 58 (65) cm
foot length: 23 (26) cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
250 (300) g col. 53, coal gray
50 (50) g col. 01, natural
+ the remaining pattern colors left over from sweater

DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch.

Rib: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from * - *.

Sock: Cast on 72 (84) sts on smaller double pointed needles with coal gray; join and place a marker at the join (this is the center back). Knit 14 (16) cm rib. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit 2 rows stockinette stitch. Knit Pattern 6, then knit Pattern 7. When the work measures 30 (32) cm begin decreasing for the leg. Dec 1 st each side of the marker (before the marker: slip 1, knit 1, psso; after the marker: K 2 tog) every 5th (4th) row 12 (14) times in all = 48 (56) sts. When the work measures 50 (56) cm put the center 24 (28) sts in front on a stitch holder and knit the rest with coal gray. Then knit 5 (6) cm stockinette stitch (for the heel) over the 24 (28) center sts in the back and then turn the heel:
1st row (right side): Knit until 8 (9) sts remain on needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
2nd row (wrong side): Purl until 8 (9) sts remain on needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
3rd row (right side): Knit until 7 (8) sts remain on needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
4th row (wrong side): Purl until 7 (8) sts remain on needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
5th row (right side): Knit until 6 (7) sts remain on needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
6th row (wrong side): Purl until 6 (7) sts remain on needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
7th row (right side): Knit until 5 (6) sts remain on needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
8th row (wrong side): Purl until 5 (6) sts remain on needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
Continue in this manner, working 1 less stitch before decreasing every other row, until 12 (14) sts remain.

Then pick up 12 (13) sts on either side of the heel and distribute all sts evenly on 4 needles = 60 (70) sts. Put a marker on either side of the uppermost 24 (28) sts. Dec 1 st before the marker before the 24 (28) sts and 1 st after the marker after the 24 (28) sts every other row 6 times in all = 48 (58) sts. Make the decreases as follows: Before the marker: K 2 tog. After the marker: slip 1, knit 1 st, psso. Knit until the foot measures approximately 19 (21.5) cm. Put a marker on either side of the foot and bind off for the toe on either side of the marker as follows: K 2 tog before the marker and K 2 tog after the marker, repeat 3 times every other row = 36 (46) sts, then 7 (9) times on every row = 8 (6) sts. Pull together remaining sts and fasten well.

Diagram

symbols = dark gray
symbols = off-white
symbols = bottle green
symbols = dark red
symbols = mustard
symbols = orange
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Linda wrote:

I'd love to make this beautiful sweater, but the only pattern chart I'm able to find online is quite blurry. Is there any way you could post a sharper image of this pattern? It's quite hard for me to read. Thank you!

07.08.2021 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, unfortunately we do not have anothier version of the charts. Happy Stitching!

08.08.2021 - 23:01

country flag Lianne wrote:

Ik heb de mouwen af, dat klopt precies! Nu heb ik de zoom gebreid van voor- en rugpand, 291 steken. Nu staat er dat ik er 5 bij moet doen voor de knipbies, dat snap ik, 5 extra tricotsteken die geen deel uitmaken van het patroon, maar nu staan er 289 steken plus 5, terwijl ik er 291 op te staan heb, dat snap ik niet. Met vriendelijke groeten Lianne en nog bedankt voor de vorige uitleg, heel duidelijk!

08.07.2021 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lianne,

Bij de 291 zitten 2 kantsteken, daarnaast zet je nog 3 steken op. Deze 3 steken + de 2 kantsteken worden later opengeknipt.

08.07.2021 - 18:06

country flag Lianne wrote:

De kantsteken die jullie noemen in de 5 extra steken welke je later open gaat knippen, brei je de kantssteek zo: de eerste recht afhalen, de laatste averecht breien? Ik ben anders bang dat het niet goed gaat met het openknippen dat heb ik nog nooit gedaan.

22.06.2021 - 09:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lianne,

Je kan gewoon de 5 extra steken opzetten en deze in tricotsteek breien. In de video hieronder wordt dat ook op die manier gedaan en je kunt meteen zien hoe het werkt met open knippen en naaien.

24.06.2021 - 10:38

country flag Colinda André wrote:

Prachtig patroon, lijkt me superleuk om aan te beginnen! Maar het telpatroon is erg onscherp, waardoor slecht leesbaar, de symbolen zijn niet goed te onderscheiden. Ik durf het dus eigenlijk niet aan. Kunnen jullie een scherpere afbeelding maken?

16.10.2020 - 10:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Colinda,

Helaas kan ik je geen scherpe afbeelding sturen op dit moment. Dit is een wat ouder patroon en helaas met een wat mindere weergave. Je kunt de afbeelding van het telpatroon wel downloaden met de rechter muisknop en inzoomen in je foto-programma op je computer. Misschien helpt dat. (Er worden wel regelmatig oudere patronen van ons bijgewerkt met betere telpatronen, maar ik kan helaas niet zeggen of en wanneer dat met deze gebeurt, dus daar heb je nu even niks aan...)

25.10.2020 - 19:55

country flag DROPS Design NL wrote:

Hoi Marga. Ja, je moet de knoopsgat weer breien. Je moet voor 7 knoopsgaten afkanten met een gelijkmatige afstand. Je mag dan ook het eerste knoopsgat maken in het halsboord boven de overige knoopsgaten. Het hangt vanaf wat je het mooiste/handigste vindt. Succes verder. Gr. Tine

05.04.2009 - 20:00

country flag Marga Rijskamp wrote:

Nog een vraag: op de foto zit er in de boord langs de hals ook een knoopsgat dit staat niet in de beschrijving ?

04.04.2009 - 10:19

country flag Marga Rijskamp wrote:

Moet je in de zoom langs het voorpand de knoopsgaten ook 2 keer breien (want je vouwt de zoom dubbel, anders wil de knoop er toch niet door ??)

04.04.2009 - 10:15