DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 80-23
Pullover:

Sizes: XS - S/M - M/L - XL - XXL
Finished measurements: 90-102-114-126-138 cm
[35 3/8" - 40 1/8" - 44 7/8" - 49 5/8" - 54 3/8"]

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
600-650-750-800-850 gr nr 01, natural

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] and 9 mm [US 13] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PULLOVER:

Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Front: Cast on 49-55-61-67-73 sts on smaller needles. Knit rib as follows
Row 1 (right side):
Size XS: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 2 times, K 3, P 5, K 7, P 5, K 3, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 2 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size S/M: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, P 5, K 7, P 5, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size M/L: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, K 3, P 5, K 7, P 5, K 3, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, P 5, K 7, P 5, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, K 3, P 5, K 7, P 5, K 3, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side):
Size XS: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 2 times, P 3, K 5, P 7, K 5, P 3, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 2 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size S/M: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, K 5, P 7, K 5, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size M/L: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, P 3, K 5, P 7, K 5, P 3, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, K 5, P 7, K 5, * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Size XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, P 3, K 5, P 7, K 5, P 3, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - * 4 times, K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
After 6 rows rib change to larger needles and establish pattern as follows: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), 15-18-21-24-27 sts stockinette st, P 5, then inc 3 sts in the K 7 in the center – inc by pulling up a st from previous the row every other st and knit (= K 10), P 5, 15-18-21-24-27 sts stockinette st and K1 (edge st knit in garter st). There are now 52-58-64-70-76 sts. Continue with stockinette st and Pattern 1 over the center 20 sts to finished measurements. Note: the 1st row of Pattern 1 is a wrong side row. When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times and 1 st 1-3-2-4-4 times = 46-48-50-52-54 sts. When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59 cm put the center 20 sts on a st holder for the neck. Then dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 1-1-2-2-2 times = 12-13-13-14-15 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Back: Cast on 47-53-59-65-71 sts on smaller needles and knit rib as follows:
Row 1 (right side):
Sizes XS, M/L and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), and begin with P 3, end with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Sizes S/M and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), and start with K 3, end with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side):
Sizes XS, M/L and XXL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), and begin with K 3, end with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Sizes S/M and XL: K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), and start with P 3, end with K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
After 6 rows rib change to larger needles and stockinette st over all sts. Bind off for armholes as on front = 41-43-45-47-49 sts. When the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63 cm bind off the center 15-15-17-17-17 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 12-13-13-14-15 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 26-26-32-32-32 sts on smaller needles and knit rib, keeping 1 st at each side in garter st, for 8 cm. Change to larger needles and stockinette st, and inc 1 st at each side every 6.5-5-7-5.5-4 cm a total of 7-8-6-7-8 times = 40-42-44-46-48 sts. When sleeve measures 49-47-45-43-41 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 0-0-0-3-4 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 54 cm. Bind off the remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew right shoulder.
Collar: Pick up 53 or 59 sts around the neck (incl. sts on st holder) on larger needles and knit as follows: the 20 sts at center front continue in Pattern and the remaining sts knit in rib so that there will be K 3 at each side of Pattern. When the collar measures approx. 14 cm (you need at least 5 rows stockinette st over the last cable at center front) K 2 tog across the 10 sts over the cable = 48 or 54 sts. On the next row bind off all sts in rib.
Sew left shoulder and up along the collar.
Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance.





GARTER STITCH PILLOW IN SNOW:

Measurement: 45 x 45 cm [17.75" x 17.75"]
The pillow can be knit with 1 or 2 strands. If you knit with 1 strand follow the numbers before ( ), if you knit with 2 strands follow the numbers inside ( ).

Materials: Garnstudio SNOW from Garnstudio
350 (450) gr nr 01, natural

DROPS 9 mm [US 13] (12 mm [US 17]) needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

5 DROPS Light wood button, nr 502

Gauge:
1 strand: 10 sts x 20 rows in garter st on smaller needles = 10x 10 cm.
2 strands: 7 sts x 16 rows in garter st on larger needles = 10 x 10 cm

Pillow: Cast on loosely 43 (31) sts on appropriate needles with 1 (2) strands. Knit garter st.
If you do not want the flap, bind off when the piece measures 84 cm.
If you want the flap, continue until the piece measures 98 cm, then make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed (1 buttonhole = K 2 tog and yo, on the next row, twist and knit the yo so the buttonhole will not be too large. Knit 4 rows garter st after the buttonholes and then bind off.

Assembly:
Pillow without flap: Fold pillow in half and sew side seams. Insert pillow form and sew top seam, then sew on 5 buttons as decoration 8 cm below top seam.
Pillow with flap: Fold the bottom 84 cm of pillow in half (flap = approx. 16 cm), sew side seams. Fold flap over pillow, and sew on buttons to match up with the buttonholes.





PILLOW IN ULL-FLAMÉ AND SNOW:

Measurement: 45 x 45 cm [17.75" x 17.75"]

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
250 gr nr 03, brown
and use: DROPS ULL-FLAMÉ from Garnstudio
250 gr nr 19, camel

DROPS 12 mm [US 17] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 7 mm [US K] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

2 DROPS Light wood button, nr 502

Gauge: 7 sts x 11 rows with 1 strand Snow + 1 strand Ull-Flamé in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pillow: Cast on loosely 31 sts with 1 strand of each yarn. Knit garter st for 4 rows, then knit stockinette st until the piece measures 98 cm, then knit 4 rows garter st and bind off. Fold bottom 84 cm in half and sew side seams. The flap measures approx. 16 cm.

Button loops: Crochet 1 buttonhole loop at each side of flap with 1 strand of each yarn. 1 loop = start with 1 sc in 2nd st from edge, ch 4, skip over 1 st (in from st with sc) and fasten with a sl st in the next st. Repeat at other side of flap.

Tassels: Make 2 tassels. 1 tassel = 10 strands of each yarn 30 cm long. Ch 14 ch with 1 strand of each yarn. Fold strands of yarn over the ch and make tassel. Fasten ch with a sl st 6 ch from hook. Sew the ch-band to the top of each side of pillow. Fasten 1 tassel on the other side. Sew on buttons.





CABLED PILLOW IN ALASKA:

Finished measurement: 50 x 50 cm [19.75" x 19.75"]

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
500 gr nr 02, natural

DROPS 5 mm [US 8] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

6 DROPS wood buttons nr 511

Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Pillow: Cast on 86 sts and knit 2 rows garter st, increasing 24 sts evenly distributed over the center 58 sts on the 2nd row = 110 sts. Establish pattern on the next row as follows; K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st), 12 sts in Pattern 3, Pattern 2 (82 sts), 12 sts in Pattern 3, and K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st). Continue in pattern as established until the piece measures 45 cm, then knit 2 rows garter st over all sts (= folding edge), decreasing 24 sts evenly distributed over the center 62 sts on the 1st row = 86 sts. Then knit Pattern 3 over all sts keeping 2 sts in garter st at each side. When the piece measures 90 cm place a marker. When the piece measures 102 cm make 6 buttonholes as follows: K 2 (edge sts in garter st), 5 sts in Pattern 3, bind off 2 sts for buttonhole, * 12 sts in Pattern 3, bind off 2 sts for buttonhole *, repeat from * - * 5 times, 7 sts remain, 5 sts in Pattern 3 and K 2 (edge sts in garter st). Cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row, and then knit Pattern 3 over all sts, keeping 2 edge sts in garter st at each side until the piece measures 104 cm. Knit 2 rows garter st and bind off. The piece measures approx. 105 cm. Fold piece at garter st rows and at the marker so that the
buttonholes are on the outside of the pillow. Sew
side seams using 1 edge st at each side as seam allowance, and sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, P from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, K from wrong side
symbols = Put 5 sts on 1 cable needle in front of work, K 5, K 5 from cable needle.
symbols = knit from right side, P from wrong side (pillow)
symbols = purl from right side, K from wrong side
symbols = put 1 st on cable needle in back of work, K 3, P 1 from cable needle.
symbols = put 3 sts on cable needle in front of work, P 1, K 3 from cable needle.
symbols = put 1 st on cable needle in back of work, K 3, P 1 from cable needle.
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Phyllis M Gulliver wrote:

I am doing the White Bliss pattern. i don't understand why the instructions for the back is written like it is. i have knitted for many many years . usually when back and front are knitted seperate it gives full details if its different. on this pattern it says start out with pearl 3 to knit 1 . so do one just assume its exactly like the front or is it p3 k3 all the way across to k1. needs more explaination

24.11.2023 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Phyllis, you just need to work the rib as explained in the upper part of the pattern, in rib, but not as the front piece. That is, you work k3, p3 and they just state whether you start purling or knitting, so as to match the stitches from the front piece. The front is explained in more detail because it includes the stitches for the cables, which aren't worked in the back piece. Happy knitting!

26.11.2023 - 19:21

country flag Diane wrote:

Bonjour dans le modele 80-23 pour la manche rabattre 1x4ms 2x2ms 0x1m puis 2m jusqu'à 54cm que veut dire le (puis 2m jusqu'a54cm. merci beaucoup.

20.08.2020 - 01:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, quand vous avez rabattu au début de chaque rang de chaque côté 1 fois 4 m et 2 fois 2 m (si pas de fois 1 m dans votre taille), rabattez maintenant au début de chaque rang de chaque côté 2 mailles jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 54 cm de hauteur totale, veillez juste à bien rabattre 2 m autant de fois de chaque côté. Rabattez ensuite les mailles restantes au rang suivant sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

20.08.2020 - 10:09

country flag Zabeth wrote:

La torsade se croise bien tous les 16 rangs? Le diagramme montre le motif sur l’endroit, c'est noté dans les explications. Si les rangs envers ne sont pas notés sur le diagramme, cela veut-il dire que la torsade se fait tous les 32 rangs?!

09.09.2018 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zabeth, les torsades de M.1 se croisent bien tous les 16 rangs, tous les rangs figurent dans le diagramme, ceux sur l'endroit aussi bien que ceux sur l'envers, tels qu'on les voit sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

11.09.2018 - 08:34

country flag Zabeth wrote:

Bonjour, Est-il possible de le tricoter en rond? Apparemment il semblerait que oui. Mais que fait-on des mailles lisières? Faut-il les garder ou les supprimer? Dans l'attente de votre réponse, je vous remercie.

08.09.2018 - 17:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zabeth, vous pouvez tricoter le bas du dos et du devant en rond jusqu'aux emmanchures, montez le nombre de mailles indiqué moins les 2 m lis du dos et du devant (= -4 m au total), mais gardez ensuite les m lisières pour les coutures des manches (emmanchures). Bon tricot!

11.09.2018 - 08:11

country flag Sven wrote:

M3 finns under ärmen på diagrammet för tröjan.

09.08.2016 - 17:41

country flag Veronika Munkvold wrote:

Hei. Viser til oppskrift "Puter med fletter i Alaska", hvor det refereres til diag M.2 og M.3. Hvor finner jeg .3? Veronika

09.08.2016 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Du hittar M.3 längst till höger, vid sidan av målskissen. Lycka till!

11.08.2016 - 10:40

country flag Jennie wrote:

Hej! Jag undrar om ni har en tydligare helhetsbild på kuddarna? Framförallt kudde med flätor. Skulle vilja se hur mönstret ser ut i sin helhet. Tacksam för svar

15.10.2013 - 21:57

DROPS Design answered:

Det har vi tyvärr inte, du får klara dig med diagrammet. Lycka till!

17.10.2013 - 12:27

France Joly wrote:

Confort au foyer. Voilà le nom que m'inspire ce chandail

29.09.2013 - 04:16

country flag Caroline wrote:

Have just finished this, a very lovely jumper, very pleased with it

23.06.2013 - 18:27

country flag Cactusjoe wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai commencé ce modèle avec une autre couleur (n°10) que je trouve simple et chic à la fois. Cependant, je veux savoir si la maille lisière en point mousse est valable pour tout l'ouvrage ou quand on a fait les diminutions des emmanchures on continue en maille lisière normal? Merci pour la réponse

26.11.2012 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cactusjoe, vous tricotez 1 m lis au point mousse de chaque côté jusqu'à la fin. Bon tricot !

26.11.2012 - 11:48