DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 87-3
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-106-116-126 cm
[34-5/8" - 37.75" - 41.75" - 45-5/8" - 49-5/8"]
Hem: 80-88-98-108-118 cm
[31.5" - 34-5/8" 38-5/8" - 42.5" - 46.5"]

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN,
250-250-300-300-350 g. col. no. 18, natural
and use: DROPS COTTON-VISCOSE,
350-400-400-450-500 g. col. no. 02, natural

DROPS 4.5 mm [US 7] and 5.5 mm [US 9] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 3 mm [US C] crochet hook
Accessories: 1 safety pin, 1 button

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Viscose
DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows on larger needles with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Button band: Knit the button bands as follows:
* K 1 row (right side), P 1 row (wrong side), but the outermost 3 sts at the center front edge K all sts, then K 1 row, P 1 row but the outermost 4 sts at the center front edge K all sts*, repeat * - * to finished measurements.

Increasing tips (for button bands):
Make all incs on right side rows. Inc inside of button bands by making a yo. On the next row, twist and P the yo.

Knitting tips (for neckband):
Bind off inside of button bands on front and inside of 4 sts in garter st on back.
All decs are made on right side. Bind off as follows:
After button bands/4 garter sts: Sl 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso.
Before button bands/4 garter sts: K 2 tog.

Back: Cast on 66-72-80-88-96 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) and knit 2 rows garter st. Change to larger needles and stockinette st. When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st at each side every 10 cm a total of 3 times = 72-78-86-94-102 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 2-2-3-5-6 times = 58-60-62-62-64 sts. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm knit 4 rows garter st over the center 24-26-26-26-28 sts (knit the remaining sts as before). Then bind off the center 16-18-18-18-20 sts for the neck. Continue to dec 1 st at each neck edge every other row 2 times – see knitting tips = 19-19-20-20-20 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Left front: Cast on 22-25-29-33-37 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands).
Read the entire next section before knitting:

Inc at the center front: knit 2 rows garter st at the same time increasing 1 st at the center front on the 1st row – see increasing tips above.
Change to larger needles and continue in stockinette st – see instructions for button bands above.
Then inc 1 st every 4 rows – see increasing tips: 4-5-6-7-8 times, then every other row: 10-9-8-7-6 times.

Side inc: When the piece measures 10 cm inc at the side as on back.

Neck shaping: After all incs at the center front are complete knit 3 rows stockinette st (the button bands are knit as before) – the piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23 cm.
Now dec 1 st at the center front every 4 rows – see knitting tips: 8-10-9-8-10 times, then every 6 rows: 6-5-6-7-6 times. Continue with stockinette st and button bands as before to finished measurements.

Armhole: At the same time when the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cm bind off for armhole at the side as on back.
After all shaping is complete 19-19-20-20-20 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62 cm.

Right front: Cast on and knit the same as the left reversing shaping.

Sleeve: Cast on 51-53-53-55-55 sts on larger needles with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). K 1 row (right side), decreasing 5 sts evenly distributed on the row = 46-48-48-50-50 sts.
Then K 1 row (wrong side row), then continue in stockinette st.
When the piece measures 5 cm dec 5 sts evenly distributed on the row. Repeat dec when the piece measures 10 cm = 36-38-38-40-40 sts.
When the piece measures 16-15-15-16-17 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3.5-3-2.5-2-1.5 cm a total of 9-11-13-14-17 times = 54-60-64-68-74 sts.
When sleeve measures 48-48-47-46-45 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 2-3-2-4-5 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55-56-56-57-57 cm, then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 56-57-57-58-58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve and side seams in one, using edge sts as seam allowance.
Crocheted buttonhole: Crochet on right center front edge at the widest part with 1 strand Cotton Viscose as follows: 1 sc, ch 4, fasten with 1 sc approx. 1 cm below, turn and crochet 5 sc in ch-loop back, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from previous row.
Sew button approx. 8 cm in from the center front of left side at the widest part so that the right front buttonhole matches up.

Crocheted 5-petal blossoms in 3 layers:
1st row: Ch 4 with Cotton Viscose and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
2nd row: 1 sc in the ring, * ch 2, 1 sc *, repeat
* - * a total of 4 times and finish with ch 2 and 1 sl st in first sc at start of row = 5 ch-loops.
3rd row: Ch 1, crochet as follows in first ch-loop:
* 1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc *, repeat * - * in all ch-loops and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row. Finish with ch 1. Turn piece and complete from other side.
4th row: * 1 sc in sc from 2nd row (crochet on the back side around sts from 3rd row, pull yarn tight), ch 4 *, repeat * - * a total of 5 times and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
5th row: Ch 1, crochet as follows in first ch-loop:
* 1 sc, 5 dc, 1 sc *, repeat * - * in all ch-loops and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.6th row: * 1 sc in sc from 4th row (crochet on the back side of the 2 petals around sts from 5th row, pull yarn tight), ch 5 *, repeat * - * a total of 5 times and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
7th row: Ch 1, crochet as follows in first ch-loop:
* 1 sc, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 tc, ch 1, 2 dc, 1 sc *, repeat * - * in all ch-loops and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row.
Cut and fasten yarn. Make a total of 3 flowers in this manner.

Crocheted 5-petal blossoms in 2 layers:
These blossoms are crocheted the same as the 3-layer blossoms but work only rows 1 - 5.
Make a total of 2 flowers in this manner.

Crocheted 5-petal blossoms in 1 layer:
1st row: Ch 4 and join into a ring with 1 sl st.
2nd row: 1 sc in the ring, * ch 3, 1 sc *, repeat
* - * a total of 4 times and finish with ch 3 and 1 sl st in first sc at start of row = 5 ch-loops.
3rd row: Ch 1, crochet in first ch-loop: * 1 sc, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 tc, ch 1, 1 dc, 1 sc *, repeat * - * in all ch-loops and finish with 1 sl st in first sc at start of row. Cut and fasten yarn. Make a total of 2 flowers in this manner.
Fasten a safety pin on the back side of one of the
5-petal/3 layer flowers and use this to close the cardigan. Sew the remaining flowers on left shoulder – see photo for placement.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Wioletta wrote:

Jaką włóczką mogę zastąpić cotton viscose, która już jest wycofana?

21.01.2023 - 20:39

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Wioletta, możesz zastąpić włóczkę Cotton Viscose przez każdą z włóczek z Grupy A. Oczywiście wygląd gotowej robótki będzie nieco inny, to zależy od składu i właściwości poszczególnych włóczek. Pozdrawiamy!

22.01.2023 - 21:48

country flag Callie wrote:

What yarn is suggested to use since the cotton viscose is discontinued? Can the other yarn just be doubled?

22.08.2019 - 06:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Calllie, try our yarn converter to see the alternatives to DROPS Cotton Viscose, for any assistance choosing a new yarn you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

22.08.2019 - 09:40

country flag Pia Nørgaard wrote:

Viscose er udgået og der bliver foreslået Safran... er det så safran+safran ? dvs samme garn, begge 2-trådet der skal strikkes med samtidig ?

14.06.2019 - 12:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Ja du kan sticka denna med 2 trådar Safran istället för 1 tråd Safran och 1 tråd Cotton Viscose. Se bara till att få rätt stickfasthet. Lycka till!

01.07.2019 - 11:55

Gloria Smith wrote:

When sleeve is 57 cm. what is the number of stitches left to cast off?

20.05.2018 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Smith, you will bind off at the beg of each row on each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-3- times and 1 st 3-2 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 56-56 cm (depending on your tension this can take you more or less rows, just make sure you bind off the same number of sts on each side), then bind off 3 sts 1 time at each side and bind off the remaining sts, the sleeve measures approx. 57-57 cm. Happy knitting!

22.05.2018 - 08:50

country flag Gloria Smith wrote:

From Canada. I'm not sure how to work the Back where you cast off stitches each end on knit row after 36 cm (M) and how do I work the middle sts.(26) and then cast off 19 sts for each shoulder after 56 cm.

27.04.2018 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Smith, after 36 cm, bind off at the beginning of each row (= both from RS and from WS): 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 9 sts will be bound off on each side, there were 78 sts - 18 sts = 60 sts remain. After 52 cm bind off the middle 18 sts (after 2 ridges over the middle 26 sts) and continue each shoulder separately binding off 1 st 2 times at the beg of each row from neck. Happy knitting!

30.04.2018 - 11:52

country flag Diane Huff wrote:

It could be called the Rose Cross-over Cardigan

12.01.2018 - 00:43

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Suggestion - I think the flowers should also be in a separate pattern all by themselves, if they are not already. Thank you for all your wonderful, lovely yarns and patterns.

31.07.2017 - 16:31

Peter wrote:

The ugly flowers are made with Cotton Viscose!

05.05.2013 - 15:38

country flag Kelly Tyler wrote:

Why do you only need 350 grams of the safran but 500 grams of the cotton viscose? A quick response would be much appreciated!

05.05.2013 - 00:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tyler, Safran is 160 m for 50 g and Cotton Viscose only 110, that is the reason why you don't need the same amount in balls of both qualities. Happy knitting!

06.05.2013 - 07:50

country flag Fourgeaud wrote:

J'ai fait ce tricot avec 2 fils d'alpaga, et je suis assez déçue, parce que, toutes les mesures étant bonnes par ailleurs, les devants ne sont pas assez larges, et se recouvrent à peine.Y a-t-il une erreur dans le modèle ?

16.06.2012 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fourgeaud, le dos a 72-78-86-94-102 m en largeur pour la mesure indiquée dans le diagramme. Pour le devant, vous montez 22-25-29-33-37 m, puis vous augmentez pour le devant, on monte 22-25-29-33-37 m et on augmente 1 m + 4-5-6-7-8x1 m tous les 4 rangs puis tous les 2 rangs 10-9-8-7-6 x 1 m + sur le côté 3 x 1 m = on a un total de 40-43-47-51-55 m au plus large. Si vous avez l'échantillon exact en largeur et en hauteur, les devants vont donc se chevaucher.

19.06.2012 - 09:45