DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Extra 0-996
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-260
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
child-child-child-woman-woman-woman
US 9/10½-11/12½-13½- 5/6½-7½/9-9½/11
EU 26/28-29/31-32/34- 35/37-38/40-41/43

Materials: DROPS Fabel from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 106, red
50 g for all sizes in color no 200, gray.
50 g for all sizes in color no 100, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.7. Pattern is worked in stockinette st.

PATTERN 1:
1 st red, * 1 st off white, 1 st red *, repeat from *-*.

HEEL DECREASE:
Row 1 (= RS): K until 6-6-6-6-8-9 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): P until 6-6-6-6-8-9 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): K until 5-5-5-5-7-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): P until 5-5-5-5-7-8 sts remain, slip next st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 st less before every dec until 11-11-13-13-15-17 sts remain on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 48-48-60-60-66-66 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with red.
Work in stockinette st for 2 cm / 3/4''.
Work next round as follows: K 2 tog, 1 YO. K 2 round. Then work pattern and measure piece from here. NOTE! Pattern is different in the different sizes.

Size 9/10½-11/12½-13½ (EU 26/28-29/31-32/34):
Work A.3 (= 6 sts) 1 time vertically = 8-8-10 times in width AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 8-8-10 sts = 40-40-50 sts.

Size 5/6½-7½/9-9½/11 (EU 35/37-38/40-41/43):
Work A.1 (= 6 sts) 1 time vertically = 10-11-11 times in width. Then work A.2 (= 6 sts) 1 time vertically = 10-11-11 times in width – AT THE SAME TIME on last round in A.2 dec 6 sts evenly = 54-60-60 sts. Then work 1 round with red. Work A.3 (= 6 sts) 1 time vertically = 9-10-10 times in width AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 4-0-0 sts = 50-60-60 sts.

All sizes: Work A.4 (= 10 sts) 1 time vertically = 4-4-5-5-6-6 times in width AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 0-0-2-2-0-0 sts = 40-40-48-48-60-60 sts. Work A.5, work to arrow for your size (= 4 sts) = 10-10-12-12-15-15 times in width AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 1-1-0-0-6-3 sts = 39-39-48-48-54-57 sts. Work A.6 (= 3 sts) 1 time vertically = 13-13-16-16-18-19 times in width.
Work 1 round red AT THE SAME TIME inc 3-3-2-2-2-3 sts evenly = 42-42-50-50-56-60 sts. Piece measures approx. 10-11-11-17-17-17 cm / 4"-4½"-4½"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4".
Now keep the first 21-21-23-23-29-33 sts on needle for heel. Slip the remaining 21-21-27-27-27-27 sts on 1 stitch holder = on top of foot.
Work PATTERN 1 – see explanation above - back and forth over heel sts for 4½-5-5-5-5½-6 cm / 1 3/4"-2-"-2"-2"-2 1/4"-2½".
Insert a marker, measure piece from here. Continue pattern 1 AT THE SAME TIME dec for heel - SEE HEEL DECREASE.
After heel dec, pick up 12-13-13-13-14-16 sts on each side of heel and slip the 21-21-27-27-27-27 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 56-58-66-66-70-76 sts.
Insert a marker on each side of the 21-21-27-27-27-27 sts on top of foot. Work next round as follows: Continue pattern 1 over heel as before (= 35-37-39-39-43-49 sts), 1 st off white, A.7 (= 6 sts) over the next 19-19-25-25-25-25 sts (NOTE: Finish with first st in diagram so pattern is the same in both sides), finish with 1 st off white AT THE SAME TIME dec in each side as follows: K the last 2 sts before the 21-21-27-27-27-27 sts on top of foot twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), and K the first 2 sts after the 21-21-27-27-27-27 sts on top of foot tog. Dec like this every other round 5-5-9-8-8-7 times in total = 46-48-48-50-54-62 sts.
Continue until piece measures 13-14-16-18-19-21 cm / 5"-5½"-6 1/4"-7"-7½"-8 1/4" from marker on heel (= 4-4-4-5-5-6 cm / 1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2"-2½" remain).
Insert 1 marker in each side so that there are 21-21-27-27-27-27 sts on top of foot and 25-27-21-23-27-35 sts under foot. Continue working pattern 1 over all sts while at the same time dec for toes on each side of both markers.
Dec as follows before 1 K st and marker: K 2 tog with red.
Dec as follows after marker and 1 K st with red: K 2 twisted tog.
Repeat dec in each side every other round 5-5-5-8-8-10 times in total and the every round 4-4-4-1-1-0 times = 10-12-12-14-18-22 sts remain on needle.
On next round K 2 tog around
with red = 5-6-6-7-9-11 sts.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Fold the cast-on edge at the top of sock, where the row with eyelet holes was worked.
Loosely fasten the edge.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = red
symbols = gray
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Svanhild Juliussen wrote:

Det gjelder avfellinga. Det står :Fell slik før 1 m rett og merket: 2 m rett sammen med rødt. Fell slik etter merket og 1 m rett med rødt: 2 vridd rett sammen. Nå klarer ikke mitt hode å få dette til å stemme :-) Håper jeg kan få hjelp av dere

08.12.2021 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Svanhild, du tager ind med rødt på hver side af den hvide maske, så den hvide løber som en retmaske på hver side af foden :)

08.12.2021 - 08:25

country flag Elodie Diongre wrote:

Bonjour, je suis en train de tricoter ces chaussettes en taille 29/31, j'ai tricoté 1 fois A3, et il me reste bien 40 mailles après les 8 diminutions, par contre , pour A4, vous dites qu'il faut diminuer de 2 mailles et vous mettez qu'il reste donc 40 mailles... Ce ne serait pas 38 mailles ? Merci d'avance

04.12.2019 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Diongre, la taille 29/31 est la 2ème taille, après A.3, on diminue 8 m = il reste 40 m, puis on tricote A.4 mais sans diminuer au dernier tour = 40 m, on va diminuer ensuite 1 m au dernier tour de A.5 = 39 m. Bon tricot!

04.12.2019 - 08:46

country flag Berit wrote:

Man strickt ja von oben nach unten!

18.08.2016 - 18:38

country flag Daniela Knauer wrote:

Christmas Stampede Warum werden die Hirsche in der Strickanleitung falsch herum abgebildet?

18.08.2016 - 16:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hallo Daniela, weil die Socken von oben nach unten gestrickt werden. Sonst würden die Hirsche am Socken auf dem Kopf stehen.

18.08.2016 - 18:59

country flag Kim wrote:

Carolyn, I had the same problem until I realized the K2 meant knit two rounds after the eyelet row. I am finding that 66 stitches is quite tight on my leg - hard to pull over my heel. I am going to try it with 72 inches and then add 2 to the deer pattern. Hopefully, that will work out.

20.11.2015 - 17:49

country flag Ruth wrote:

Jeg strikker disse nå i den nest største størrelsen, men det ser ut som de blir veldig trange rundt ankelen og foten? Noen andre med samme erfaring?

23.10.2015 - 14:34

country flag Carolyn wrote:

In working this pattern for Size 7 1/2/9 it seems the casting on 66 stitches is incorrect. When working the eyelet row 66 is not divisible by 4. So when I get to the last k2 tog yo k2, I can only k2 tog. which then leaves me with 65 stitches. What am I doing wrong?

09.02.2015 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carolyn, you will work the eyelet row over 2 sts: work K2 tog, YO around over the 66 sts (ie a total of 33 times). Happy knitting!

10.02.2015 - 09:03

Pat Reddy wrote:

If my pattern calls for 3mm needles can I use fable please

13.11.2014 - 23:41

DROPS Design answered:

See below - These socks are worked in DROPS Fabel, remember to check your tension and keep it all the work. Happy knitting!

14.11.2014 - 14:35

Pat Reddy wrote:

How would the fable yarn work if my pattern calls for a 3 mm needles please

13.11.2014 - 23:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Reddy, tension to this pattern is 26 sts x 34 rows in st st = 10 x 10 cm, recommanded needle size is only a guide, make a swatch and check your tension, you may have to change to larger needles (if you get too many sts on 10 cm) or to smaller needles (if you get too few sts). Happy knitting!

14.11.2014 - 14:34

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Trés trés joli.merci aux créatrices !

14.12.2013 - 09:58