DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Grey Sunset Sweater

Knitted DROPS jumper with stripes in seed st, raglan and detachable collar in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-44
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-457
Yarn group E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-94-102-112-120-134 cm / 33”-37”-40”-44”-47”-52¾”
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm / 24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’-27½’’-28 3/8’’

Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color no 46, medium gray
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color no 53, light gray
250-300-300-350-400-450 g color no 14, dark gray
100-150-150-150-150-150 g color no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16’’ and 32’’) SIZE 10 mm / US 15 - or size needed to get 9 sts x 15 rows in seed st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16’’ and 32’’) SIZE 9 mm / US 13 - for rib.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of all 4 markers as follows:
Before A.1: K 2 tog.
After A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
NOTE: Work last dec in each side on sleeve as follows:
Slip last st in A.1 (= 1 P st) as if to P, P 1, psso. P the next 2 sts tog (i.e. next st on sleeve and first st in A.1).

STRIPES 1 (applies to body and sleeves):
Stripes are worked in seed st - see explanation in pattern. Work 12-12-14-14-13-13 cm / 4¾”-4¾”-5½”-5½”-5 1/8”-5 1/8” on body and 15-13-14-13-10-9 cm / 6”-5 1/8”-5½”-5 1/8”-4”-3½” on sleeves with color no 14, dark gray. Then work stripes as follows on body and sleeve:

Work 10-10-10-10-11-11 cm / 4”-4”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” with color no 14, dark gray and color no 46, medium gray as follows:
Round 1: Medium gray
Round 2: Dark gray
Repeat round 1 and 2.

Work 10-10-10-10-11-11 cm / 4”-4”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” with color no 46, medium gray

Work 10-10-10-10-11-11 cm / 4”-4”-4”-4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8” with color no 46, medium gray and color no 53, light gray as follows:
Round 1: Light gray
Round 2: Medium gray
Repeat round 1 and 2.

Work 10-11-11-12-12-13 cm / 4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4¾”-4¾”-5 1/8” with color no 53, light gray

Work 10-11-11-12-12-13 cm / 4”-4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4¾”-4¾”-5 1/8” with color no 53, light gray and color no 01, off white as follows:
Round 1: Light gray
Round 2: Off white
Repeat round 1 and 2.

STRIPES 2 (applies to collar):
Stripes are worked in seed st - see explanation in pattern. Work 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4’’-4’’-4 3/8’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’-4¾’’ with color no 53, light gray and color no 01, off white as follows:
Round 1: Light gray
Round 2: Off white
Repeat round 1 and 2.
Then work 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4’’-4’’-4 3/8’’-4 3/8’’-4¾’’-4¾’’ with color no 53, light gray

PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

SEED ST:
Round 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Round 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd round.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle in STRIPES 1 - see explanation above.
Cast on 84-92-100-108-116-128 sts on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with dark gray. P 1, work SEED ST - see explanation above - over the next 41-45-49-53-57-63 sts (= back piece), P 1, and work seed st over the next 41-45-49-53-57-63 sts (= front piece). Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME work Stripes 1.
When piece measures 15 cm / 6’’, dec 1 st on each side of P sts in each side (= 4 dec sts). Repeat dec when piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾’’-10¼’’-10 5/8’’-11’’-11 3/8’’-11¾’’ = 76-84-92-100-108-120 sts. When piece measures 33-33-35-35-37-37 cm / 13”-13”-13¾”-13¾”-14½”-14½”, work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts for armhole, work 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts, bind off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts, bind off the last 3 sts for armhole (= 6 sts bind off in each side). Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Loosely cast on 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts on double pointed needles size 9 mm / US 13 with dark gray and work Stripes 1 AT THE SAME TIME work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 7 cm / 2¾’’. Switch to double pointed needles size 10 mm / US 15 and work 1 round in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 2-2-4-4-6-6 sts evenly = 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts. Work next round as follows: 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts seed st, P 1. Continue pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9 cm / 3½’’, inc 1 st on each side of P sts. Repeat inc every 2 cm / 3/4’’ 9-6-7-5-6-2 more times, then every cm / 3/8” 5-10-8-12-10-16 times in total (= inc 15-17-16-18-17-19 times in total) = 52-56-56-60-60-64 sts. NOTE: Work the inc sts in seed st. Continue to work until piece measures 36-34-35-34-34-33 cm / 14¼”-13 3/8”-13¾”-13 3/8”-13 3/8”-13”. Work next round as follows: bind off 3 sts, work the next 46-50-50-54-54-58 sts, bind off the last 3 sts on round (= 6 sts bind off) = 46-50-50-54-54-58 sts. Put piece aside and Make another sleeve - NOTE: Work reversed, i.e. beg round with P 1 and then work 21-21-23-23-25-25 sts seed st.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 156-172-180-196-204-224 sts - CONTINUE WITH STRIPES 1. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 markers) - insert 1st marker in transition between left sleeve and front piece. Beg at first marker and work as follows from RS: Seed st over the first 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= front piece), A.1 over the next 4 sts (i.e. after 2nd marker), seed st over the next 38-42-42-46-46-50 sts, A.1 (= 4 sts before 3rd marker = right sleeve), seed st over the next 32-36-40-44-48-54 sts (= back piece), A.1 (= 4 sts after 4th marker), seed st over the next 38-42-42-46-46-50 sts, A.1 over the next 4 sts (i.e. before 1st marker = left sleeve). Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on 4th round after body and sleeve have been placed tog, beg dec for RAGLAN - see explanation above. Repeat dec as explained below. NOTE: The dec on body and sleeves are uneven.

SLEEVES:
Dec every 4th row 2-1-1-1-1-0 more times and then every other row 16-19-19-21-21-24 times in total (= 19-21-21-23-23-25 dec in total on each side of A.1 in towards sleeves). NOTE: Work last dec on sleeve as follows:
Slip last st in A.1 (= 1 P st) as if to P, P 1, psso. P the next 2 sts tog (i.e. next st on sleeve and first st in A.1).

BODY:
Dec every 8th row 2-1-0-1-0-0 more times, every 6th row 4-5-5-3-3-0 times in total and then every 4th row 0-1-3-5-7-12 times in total (= 7-8-9-10-11-13 dec in total on each side of A.1 in towards front piece and back piece) = 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts remain on front piece and 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts remain on back piece.
After all dec are done, 52-56-60-64-68-72 sts remain on needle. Cut the yarn.

Now work an elevation in the neck with short rows in seed st as follows:
NOTE! On every turn in the middle of piece slip 1st st, tighten yarn and continue to work: Beg mid back and work 11-12-13-14-15-16 sts, turn, tighten yarn and work 22-24-26-28-30-32 sts. Turn, tighten yarn and work 11-12-13-14-15-16 sts, turn, tighten yarn. Turn and work 1 round (= WS) in the round over all sts until mid back again. Turn piece (i.e. now work from RS).

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 and K 1 round over all 52-56-60-64-68-72 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 8 sts evenly = 44-48-52-56-60-64 sts. Work rib K 2/P 2 until rib measures 2 cm / 3/4’’. Then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

DETACHABLE COLLAR:
Worked in the round on circular needle in seed st. Cast on 51-53-55-57-59-61 sts on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with light gray and work STRIPES 2 (applies to collar) - see explanation above. Bind off when piece measures 20-20-22-22-24-24 cm / 8”-8”-8¾”-8¾”-9½”-9½”.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Lisbeth Lønholdt wrote:

Jeg kan ikke se, at der er noget måleskema efter opskriften på min mobil.

24.10.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisbeth. Målskissen finner du helt nederst på oppskriften. Vi har testen den både på en "vanlig" nettleser og på mobiltelefon. Usikker på hvorfor du ikke ser den, sjekk dine innstillinger/nettleseren. mvh DROPS Design

25.10.2021 - 11:18

country flag Lone wrote:

Kan det være rigtigt at ærmet i den største str. kun skal være 33 cm. Det kommer jo på ingen måde til at passe i striber med kropsstykket. Desuden er der stor forskel på ærmelængderne så den mindste str. er længst.

16.10.2020 - 10:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lone. Ja, oppskriften stemmer. Det er kortere erm mål i de større størrelsene pga bredere skuldervidde, men det er ikke stor forskjell. 3 cm skiller den minste til den største størrelsene på erm lengden. mvh DROPS design

19.10.2020 - 11:47

country flag Lykke Lindemann wrote:

På målskemaet er der 66 cm op til ærmgabet. I selve opskriften, skal man lukke af til ærmgab ved 35 cm, hvordan hænger det sammen? Mvh Lykke

15.03.2019 - 15:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lykke. 66 cm er den totale lengden på plagget. Du feller av til ermhull når bolen måler 35 cm (eller etter ønsket lengde om du vil ha den lenger). God fornøyelse

25.03.2019 - 14:34

Liz Thomas wrote:

Hi I am in Australia and would like to knit this pattern - do you deliver your wool to Australia? Also what ply is your wool. Cheers Liz

17.01.2016 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Thomas, you will find here a list of DROPS store shipping worldwide, please contact them for more informations - you will find here more informations about the thickness of our yarn, your DROPS store will aslo provide you more individual informations when required. Happy knitting!

18.01.2016 - 15:09

country flag Antonella wrote:

Hola! me gustaria saber cual es la talla del sweater que esta usando la modelo. GRACIAS!

13.07.2015 - 03:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Antonella, se trata de la talla M.

15.07.2015 - 09:38

country flag Christine wrote:

Bonjour, ce pull me plait beaucoup mais je constate qu il faut en tout 1 kilo 150 gr de laine ! N est ce pas un peu lourd à porter ?

11.02.2015 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, ce pull est ample et a un grand col, ce qui explique la quantité - vous pouvez remplacer par DROPS Cloud, si vous souhaitez, cf ici - demandez conseil à votre magasin DROPS. Bon tricot!

12.02.2015 - 13:38

country flag Terese wrote:

Hei! Etter timer med prøving får jeg bare ikke dette til å gå opp. i oppskriften står det: Ta siste m i A.1 osv... Men: Hvis jeg begynner med siste m i A1 vil ikke maske nummer2 etter dette være 1 m i A1?! Det vil jo være de 2 rette maskene? Og skal dette gjøres bare foran på venstre skulder og bak på høyre? blir ikke dette skjevt? Synes dette er vanskelig beskrevet... Takk for svar!

29.12.2013 - 14:37

country flag Anneli wrote:

Det står att "sista minskn i varje sida på ärmen görs så här..osv" Menas det att denna minskning ska göras endast på sista minskningsvarvet eller vid varje minskningsvarv? Har fastnat här, tacksam för snabb hjälp! MVH Anneli

20.11.2013 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Ja det är bara på sista minskningsvarvet du gör så. Lycka till!

27.11.2013 - 10:05

country flag Kristin wrote:

Er det riktig at det skal kun strikkes 33 cm på bolen før ermene skal strikkes på? Syntes det så så kort ut.

14.10.2013 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Ja i den mindste størrelse. Men vælg gerne den størrelse på målesitsen som passer dig og din længde!

15.10.2013 - 13:35

country flag Mai-Brit wrote:

Ups - det var striben med lys grå jeg mente - anden sidste stribe.

29.08.2013 - 09:20