DROPS Polaris
DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
from 5.65 $ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 151-45
DROPS design: Pattern no po-069
Yarn group F
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Measurements:
Length: approx. 103 cm / 40½"
Width: approx. 73 cm / 28 3/4"

Materials:
DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio
900 g color no 05, taupe

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 12 mm/ O – or size needed to get 6 dc x 4 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
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DROPS Polaris
DROPS Polaris
100% Wool
from 5.65 $ /100g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 50.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

CROCHET TIP:
Rug can be worked longer or shorter by beg with fewer or more ch. (There must be at least 1 dc in the middle.) Subtract or add 6 ch for every 10 cm / 4'' you want to make the rug longer or shorter. Fan edge must be adjusted to no of dc around the edge, make sure that there is one fan i each corner.

PATTERN:
Diagram A.1 shows an illustration on how the rug is inc in the corners.
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RUG:

Beg with ch-row and then work in the round.
Ch 24 on hook size 12 mm/O with taupe. Read CROCHET INFO and CROCHET TIP! Turn piece and work back in ch-row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, work 1 dc in each of the next 20 ch. Work ch 3, rotate piece and work 1 sl st on the underside of the previous dc worked. Now round beg here = 21 dc with 2 ch-spaces (one in each end).

ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in each of the 21 dc from beg, ch 3, 3 dc in first ch-space from beg, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the 21 dc on the other side of beg, ch 3, 3 dc in the second ch-space from beg, 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 dc and 4 ch-space.

ROUND 2: Work * 1 dc in every dc until ch-space from previous round, 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-space *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 64 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 3: Work * 1 dc in every dc until ch-space from previous round, 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-space *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, finish with 1 dc in every dc and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 80 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 4: Work 1 dc, [* 1 ch, skip 1 dc and work 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until last dc before ch-space, work 1 ch and 1 dc in last dc. Work 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in ch-space. Work 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, repeat from *-* until next ch-space ]. Repeat from [-] 3 more times. And repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 88 sts and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 5: * Work 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in every ch until ch-space from previous round, work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-space *. Repeat from *-* 3 more times and work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 104 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 6: Work * 1 dc in every dc until ch-space from previous round, 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-space *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, finish with 1 dc in every dc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 120 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 7: Work 1 dc, [* 1 ch, skip 1 dc and work 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until last dc before ch-space, 1 ch and 1 dc in last dc. Work 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in ch-space. Work 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch,, repeat from *-* until next ch-space ]. Repeat from [-] 3 more times. And repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 128 sts and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 8: * Work 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in every ch until ch-space from previous round, work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-space *. Repeat from *-* 3 more times and work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 144 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 9: Work * 1 dc in every dc until ch-space, in ch-space work 2 dc, 3 ch and 2 dc. Repeat from *-* 3 more times and finish with 1 dc in every dc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 160 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 10: Work 1 dc, [* 1 ch, skip 1 dc and work 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* until last dc before ch-space, 1 ch and 1 dc in last dc. Work 1 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc in ch-space. Work 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, repeat from *-* until next ch-space ]. Repeat from [-] 3 more times. And repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 168 sts and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 11: * Work 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in every ch until ch-space from previous round, work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in ch-space *. Repeat from *-* 3 more times and work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 184 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 12: Work * 1 dc in every dc until ch-space, in ch-space work 2 dc, 3 ch and 2 dc. Repeat from *-* 3 more times and finish with 1 dc in every dc the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 200 dc and 4 ch-spaces.

ROUND 13: After 12th round there are 200 dc and 4 ch-spaces on round, 59 dc on each long side and 41 dc on each short side. Cut the yarn and beg working a fan edge in one of the ch-spaces that form a corner before a long side as follows: [Work 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-space, work ch 2, skip 4 dc, * in next dc work 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, work ch 2, skip 6 dc *, repeat from *-* 6 more times, in next dc work 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, work ch 2, skip 5 dc until next ch-space = 9 fans. Work 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-space, work ch 2, skip 5 dc, * in next dc work 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, work ch 2, skip 5 dc *, repeat from *-* 5 more times] = 7 fans. Repeat from [-] 1 more time and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. A total of 32 fans around the entire rug.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.10.2016
Correction in ROUND 4, 7 and 10 on how to work before and after ch-space.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dc in dc below
symbols = dc in ch-space
symbols = ch
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Justyna wrote:

Proszę o nagranie instruktażowego filmu od pierwszego oczka łańcuszka do momentu, w którym wzór się powtarza. Jestem początkującą dziewiarką a bardzo chciałabym zrealizować kilka projektów ze strony DROPs i muszę się nauczyć rozumienia słownictwa stosowanego w objaśnieniach. Będę ogromnie wdzięczna i z radością zrealizuję moje pomysły na sweterki i inne ciekawe propozycje ze strony garnstudio. pozdrawiam serdecznie Justyna Morawska

04.03.2024 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Justyno, cieszymy się, że podobają Ci się nasze wzory. Na początek radzę zapoznać się z zakładkami, które znajdują się na górze wzoru: czyli Instrukcje video i Kursy. Tam znajdziesz podstawowe informacje dotyczące zastosowanych we wzorze ściegów, jak czytać schematy itd. Następnie zacznij pracę nad wzorem, w jak pojawią się pytania, śmiało je zadawaj. Powodzenia!

05.03.2024 - 15:59

country flag Flo wrote:

Super je l'ai fait feutrer il est génial tous les reliefs aparaissent

13.01.2021 - 13:45

country flag Jutta Bergmann wrote:

Vielen lieben dank für dir die Antwort und ich wünsche ihnen noch einen wunderschönen Tag

15.06.2020 - 09:06

country flag Jutta Bergmann wrote:

Hallöchen, kann ich diesen Teppich auch mit weiteren Reihen vergrößern und passt dann auch noch dementsprechend der Muschelrand, vielen lieben Dank und liebe Grüße

13.06.2020 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Bergmann, den Teppich können Sie gerne mit weiteren Reihen vergrößern - den Muschelrand sollen Sie dann entsprechend anpassen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.06.2020 - 08:48

country flag Dorte Buus wrote:

Hej. Hvis jeg vælger at lave tæppet i eskimo, står der at jeg skal bruge 2 tråde, men hvis jeg ser på vægt og løbelængde, passer 3 tråede bedre. Polaris 100 gr 36 m dvs 150 gr må være 54 m. Eskimo 50 gr 50 m. Det vil sige 3 nøgler giver 50 m og den korrekte vægt eller er jeg gal på den ?? Vh Dorte

05.11.2019 - 09:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Dorte, ja hvis det er vægten du er ude efter... Men for at få hæklefastheden til at stemme med den i opskriften, så er det nok med dobbelt tråd DROPS Eskimo for at få 6 st x 4 rækker på 10x10 cm. Prøv at lave en lille hækleprøve først :)

05.11.2019 - 10:37

country flag Hengie Hengelmann wrote:

Tapis très sympa à réaliser et en peu de temps réchauffe agréablement une maison campagnarde ou un chalet il m'a fallu 12 pelotes de polaris et non 9 comme indiqué pour le crocheter

06.06.2018 - 15:55

country flag Hengie wrote:

Bonjour, pour le 4eme rang il y a contradiction entre les explications et le diagramme qui indique qu'on doit avoir 2 ml et 2 b dans l'arceau ce qui porte le nombre de mailles à 96 ...si on ne fait pas les ml on a bien 88 mailles mais alors le rang 7 ne tombe pas juste...franchement je ne comprends rien et je suis bloquée. ..merci

01.06.2018 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Hengie, au 4ème tour, on a 1 bride, 3 ml, 1 bride dans l'arceau de 3 ml du tour précédent - comme l'indique les explications et comme le montre le diagramme (= 2ème symbole = 1 bride dans l'arceau, le 1er symbole = 1 bride dans la bride du rang précédent (soit la 1ère bride avant l'arceau et la 1ère bride après l'arceau). Bon crochet!

01.06.2018 - 15:59

country flag Annatjie Olivier wrote:

If I want to make the rug double the length (206cm),how many chains do I need to start with?

23.05.2018 - 21:18

country flag Kati wrote:

Miten kerrokselle 4 saadaan 88 silmukkaa? Tulee väkisin 96, jos jossain ei 'kavenneta' hyppäämällä silmukoita yli? Vastaus täytyy piillä kohdassa 'kjs-kaarta edeltävään pylvääseen asti' mutta yrityksistä huolimatta saan aina 96 silmukkaa.

19.02.2016 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! On vaikea sanoa mikä kohta on mennyt väärin. Voit kuitenkin tuoda työn lähimpään DROPS jälleenmyyjäliikkeeseen tai lähimpään käsityöliikkeeseesi. DROPS jälleenmyyjät auttavat sinua mielellään paikan päällä.

14.03.2016 - 14:11

country flag Diane wrote:

Je suis attentivement les explications et j'arrive toujours à 96 mailles après le 4e tour, alors que devrais en avoir 88.

14.01.2016 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Diane, répétez bien les parties entre crochets, vous devez avoir dans chaque arceau 1B,3 ml, 1B aux 4 coins. Bon crochet!

14.01.2016 - 19:11