DROPS 150-38
DROPS design: Pattern no la-017
Yarn group A
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Size: approx. 65 cm / 25½'' measured at the back of neck and down along mid st.

Materials: DROPS LACE from Garnstudio
100 g color no 0501, light gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – NOTE: Read about gauge below.

GAUGE:
The shawl is to be soaked and blocked/stretched to size afterwards so the gauge is not that important but to get a sense of whether you are working too loose/tight, work a test on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 in stockinette st and get approx. 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

LACE PATTERN:
Row 1-7: K from RS, K from WS
Row 8 (from WS): * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-*.
Row 9-12: K from RS, K from WS
Repeat these 12 rows upwards.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. Inc 4 sts (1 st in each side, 2 sts in the middle) on every row from RS as follows: 3 sts in garter st, 1 YO, work until st with marker (= mid st), 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st), 1 YO, work until 3 sts remain on row, 1 YO, 3 sts in garter st. On next row (from WS) K all sts incl YOs.
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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. The shawl is worked from mid back and down.
Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lace. Insert 1 marker in 4th st (= mid st) and move it upwards in mid st when working. Work 1st row as follows (= RS): 3 sts in GARTER ST - read explanation above, 1 YO, K 1 (= mid st with marker), 1 YO, 3 sts in garter st = 9 sts.
Then work LACE PATTERN with 3 sts in garter st each side while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts on every row from RS - Read INCREASE TIP!
Continue inc until there are 229 sts on the needle.
Piece measures approx. 37 cm / 14½'' measured in knitting direction from cast-on edge to needle.
Now work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, A.1, A.2 over the next 108 sts, work until 2 sts remain before mid st, work A.3, 1 st in garter st (= mid st), A.1, A.2 over the next 108 sts until 5 sts remain, work A.3 and 3 sts in garter st.
Continue to work according to A.1/A.2/A.3 until diagrams have been worked 4 times in total vertically.
Every time A.1/A.2/A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there is room for 2 more repetitions of A.2 between A.1 and A.3 on each side of mid st - AT THE SAME TIME on last row of last repetition (= WS) inc 8 sts evenly by working 2 sts in 1 st = 301 sts.
Work 2 ridges in garter st over all sts (remember inc as before in each side and in the middle), there are 309 sts on the needle, bind off.

LACE EDGE:
Cast on 8 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lace. Work back and forth according to A.4, AT THE SAME TIME work edge tog with shawl – beg at the top of shawl and fasten edge along left diagonal side down to tip.
Knit edge to shawl as follows - on every row from RS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from shawl with right needle, work first st from left needle (1st st in A.4), pass the new st over, work the rest of row.
When lace edge has been worked all the way down to tip of shawl, work in garter st over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st at beg of every row from WS, continue in garter st until all sts have been bound off.

Repeat along the right side of shawl but now work according to A.5. Knit edge to shawl as follows - on every row from WS: Pick up the outermost st in front loop from shawl with right needle, work first st from left needle (1st st in A.5), pass the new st over, work the rest of row.
Sew tog bind off edge on A.4 and A.5 at the bottom of tip.

BLOCKING:
Place the shawl in lukewarm water until it is soaking wet. Carefully squeeze the water out of the shawl - do not twist the shawl - then roll the shawl in a towel and squeeze to remove more water - the shawl will now only be moist.
Place the shawl on a carpet or mattress - carefully stretch it out to size and fasten it with pins. NOTE: 1 pin in the outer st in each side of shawl, along the 2 diagonal sides, insert 1 pin in the middle of every repetition and 1 pin in mid st (= bottom of tip on shawl), lightly pull at every needle so that the edge is shaped into small tips. Leave shawl to dry like this.
Repeat the process when the shawl has been washed.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = K from WS
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1,
psso
symbols = bind off 1 st
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Annette wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, ganz herzlichen Dank, das war meine Frage.

05.08.2021 - 16:22

country flag Annette wrote:

Ich befinde mich noch ganz am Anfang, außerhalb der Diagramme. Die 1. bis 12. Reihe wird immer wiederholt. Und die 8. Reihe davon verstehe ich nicht, weil die Maschenanzahl am Ende der Reihe nicht passt.

04.08.2021 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annette, bei der 8. Reihe im Lochmuster haben Sie 25 Maschen auf der Nadel, die werden so gestrickt: 3 M kraus rechts, (2 M rechts zusammen, 1 Umschlag), von (bis) wiederholen bis 4 M übrig sind, 1 M recht (so wird das Muster symmetrisch) und 3 M kraus rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.08.2021 - 09:00

country flag Annette wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team,\r\nich meinte die 8. Rückreihe in der 2 M zusammen und ein Umschlag im Wechsel gestrickt werden soll.\r\nWenn ich mit 3 M Kraus rechts beginne, so fehlen mir am Ende der Reihe Maschen, um mit 3 M Kraus rechts zu enden. Wenn ich die Anleitung missverstanden habe und direkt am Beginn der Reihe mit 2 M zusammen, 1 U beginne, so komme ich am Ende der Reihe wieder nicht auf eine passende Maschenanzahl.

04.08.2021 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annette, mit "8. Rückreihe", meinen Sie die 8. Reihe in A1-A.3, die eine Rückreihe ist (und die 8. vom Diagramme)? Bei der letzte Reihe in A.3 haben Sie 6 M, bei der letzten Reihe in jedem A.2 haben Sie 4 M und bei der letzten Reihe in A.1 haben Sie 5 Maschen (= ungerade Maschenanzahl). Bei der nächsten Reihe stricken Sie A.1 (= 1 M), dann A.2 über die 4 nächsten M (die früher A.1 waren), A.2 wie zuvor, A.2 über die ersten 4 M von dem vorrigen A.3 und die 2 nächsten M wie in A.3. Kann es Ihnen helfen?

04.08.2021 - 16:12

country flag Annette wrote:

Mit Reihe 8 komme ich nicht klar. Werden zunächst 3 M kraus rechts gestrickt, oder direkt 2 M rechts zusammen? Bei beiden Varianten kommt das Muster am Ende der Reihe nicht hin. Vielen Dank!

03.08.2021 - 20:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annette, welche Reihe 8 meinen Sie hier ? im A.1-A.3? die 8. Reihe in diese Diagramme sind Rückreihen und werden Links gestrickt, die Umschläge (Lochmuster) und Zunahmen (A.1 + A.3) werden nur bei den Rückreihen gestrickt. A.1-A.3 werden so (bei Hinreihen) gestrickt; 3 M kraus rechts, A.1, A.2 wiederholen, A.3, 1 M kraus recht (Mittlere Masche), A.1, A.2 wiederholen, A.3, 3 M kraus rechts. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

04.08.2021 - 07:27

country flag Lisbeth Overgaard wrote:

Hvor er Diagrammet?

15.03.2021 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lisbeth, Drops har midlertidige problemer med å laste opp bilder på nettsidene, men håper at dette blir løst snart. Da finner du diagrammet på bunnen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

16.03.2021 - 08:09

country flag Maria wrote:

Dziękuję za odpowiedź. Jeśli chodzi o liczbę oczek na koniec, po pierwsze co innego wynika z odpowiedzi DROPS Desing do innych osób (pytanie - czy oczek po obu stronach oczka środkowego powinno być 154? Odpowiedź - 150), po drugie motyw brzegu ma 12 rzędów, więc 6 razy należy go dołączyć do szala.

26.09.2019 - 22:15

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario, wzór został aktualizowany. Po wykonaniu 2 ściągaczy francuskich jest łącznie 309 o., czyli 154 o. z każdej strony oczka środkowego. Pozdrawiamy!

30.09.2019 - 16:09

country flag Maria wrote:

Hi, I'm lost in number of stiches. After last repetition of A1-A3 there is 146 stiches on both sides of the marker, plus 4 stiches I shoul add in the last row. After I'm supposed to make 2 ridges in garter stitch, still adding stiches in the middle and on the sides. It makes 309 stiches and not 301... to attache the edge motif I need number of stiches divisible by 6...

25.09.2019 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario. Po przerobieniu 2 ściągaczy francuskich po zakończeniu schematów A.1-A.3 powinnaś mieć 309 oczek. Nie widzę żadnej informacji w opisie, że liczba oczek powinna być podzielna przez 6. Może przydało by się video jak dołączać ażurowy brzeg do szala? Pozdrawiamy

26.09.2019 - 18:02

country flag Lisa wrote:

Und in einer der vorherigen Antworten heißt es, man müsse auf jeder Seite der Mittelmasche 150 M haben, ich habe aber 154 M, denn in den letzten zwei Krausrippen sollte doch auch noch zugenommen werden, oder nicht? Vielen Dank vorab :-)

04.03.2019 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, ja genau Maschenanzahl stimmt, Sie wiederholen dann A.4 insegamt 25 Mal und dann bei der letzten Rapport von A.4 wenn alle Maschen vom Tuch zusammen mit der Bordüre gestrickt sind, stricken Sie kraus rechts über alle Maschen, und gleichzeitig ketten Sie 1 M am Anfang jeder Rückreihe ab bis alle Maschen der Bordüre abgekettet sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.03.2019 - 09:37

country flag Lisa wrote:

Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort, genau so ist es ja auch in der Anleitung beschrieben, und die verstehe ich eben nicht ;-)... Das Video startet auch leider nicht am Anfang, wo wahrscheinlich mein Denkfehler liegt. Muss ich in der ersten Reihe nur die erste Masche verbinden? An welcher Stelle verbinde ich denn die zweite Masche?

04.03.2019 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, am Anfang jeder Hinreihe fassen Sie 1 M vom Tuch auf, und diese Masche wird dann mit der 1. M von der Bordüre abgenommen, und so weiter stricken, dh bei der Rückreihe stricken Sie das Diagram wie gezeigt (links nach rechts) und am Anfang jeder Hinreihe 1 M vom Tuch auffassen und mit der 1. M von der Bordure abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.03.2019 - 09:32

country flag Lisa wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, das ist mein erstes Tuch und ich konnte der Anleitung bis zur Bordüre auch gut folgen, aber an dieser verzweifle ich noch :-( ... Gibt es vielleicht ein Video, in dem man den Anfang sehen kann? Ich verstehe die Anweisung nicht, wie der Rand mit der Bordüre verbunden werden soll.

04.03.2019 - 15:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Lisa, in diesem Video wird es gezeigt, wie Sie die Bordüre und dem Tuch zusammenstricken, dh in jeder Hinreihe fassen Sie 1 M vom Tuch auf, die erste M der linken Nadel (Bordüre/A.4) stricken, und die aufgefassene Masche über die gestrickte Maschen überziehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.03.2019 - 16:22