DROPS Extra 0-763
DROPS design: Pattern no O-303
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-94-104-116-130 cm / 30"-33"-37"-41"-45 3/4"-51"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
Color no 20, light gray: 250-300-300-350-400-400 g

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
200-250-250-250-300-300 g colour no 02, fog

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 8 mm / US 11 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 12 sts x 14 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 7 mm / US 10½ (80 cm / 32'') - for rib.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, no 522: 2 pieces.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.
BUTTONHOLES:
Bind off for buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from the front edge and then make a yo.
Bind off for buttonholes when piece measure:
SIZE S: 36 and 44 cm / 14 1/4" and 17 1/4"
SIZE M: 37 and 45 cm /14½" and 17 3/4"
SIZE L: 38 and 46 cm / 15" and 18"
SIZE XL: 40 and 48 cm / 15 3/4" and 19"
SIZE XXL: 42 and 50 cm / 16½" and 19 3/4"
SIZE XXXL: 44 and 52 cm / 17 1/4" and 20½"

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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 127-139-147-159-179-197 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ with Vienna. P 1 row from WS. Work next row from RS as follows: 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, work rib K 3/P 3 until 14-14-15-15-16-16 sts remain, finish with K 3, 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts in garter st. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', work next row from RS as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11. Work 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts in garter st, work in stockinette st until 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts remain, while AT THE SAME TIME dec 17-21-21-21-25-27 sts evenly, work 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts in garter st = 110-118-126-138-154-170 sts. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 30-32-34-37-41-45 sts in from each side (back piece = 50-54-58-64-72-80 sts). Continue in stockinette st with 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts in garter st towards mid front in each side. The 11-11-12-12-13-13 sts in garter st = front band. Work front band in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 8 cm / 3'', dec 1 st on each side of the marker in each side. Repeat the dec every 7-8-10-11-11-12 cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" a total of 4 times = 94-102-110-122-138-154 sts.
When piece measures 37-37-43-45-47-49 cm / 14½"-14½"-17"-17 3/7"-18½"-19 1/4", inc 1 st on each side of marker.
SIZE S and M: Repeat the inc when piece measures 47 cm / 18½''
Size L-XXXL: Repeat the inc when piece measures 46-48-49-51 and 49-51-51-53 cm / 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20" and 19 1/4"-20"-20"-21"
= 102-110-122-134-150-166 sts.
When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm / 20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''-22'', bind off 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts for armholes in each side (bind off 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts on each side of marker in each side). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
Continue to bind off and dec for armholes at beg of row in each side as follows: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-4-5 times and dec 1 st 1-0-1-1-1-2 times = 40-40-44-46-46-48 sts.
When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'', bind off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to dec 1 st on next row from shoulder = 14-14-15-16-15-16 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Bind off and dec for armhole in the side as on back piece = 25-25-27-28-28-29 sts. Continue in stockinette st and front band in garter st. When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½, bind off the outermost 15-15-15-16-15-16 sts for shoulder = 10-10-12-12-13-13 sts remain for collar. Work rest of row. Then work short rows over band sts as follows: * K back and forth over the outermost 5-5-6-6-6-6 sts, K back and forth over all sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 8-8-9-9-9-9 cm / 3"-3"-3½"-3½"-3½"-3½" at the shortest (measured from the shoulder). Bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 30-36-36-36-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10½. K 1 round. Then work rib K 3/P 3 over all sts. When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-4-4-2-2-0 sts evenly on the round = 30-32-32-34-34-36 sts. Continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker at the beg of the round. When piece measures 8 cm / 3'', inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat the inc every 18-12-9-7-4½-4½ cm / 7"-4 3/4"-3½"-2 3/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4" a total of 3-4-5-6-8-8 times = 36-40-42-46-50-52 sts.
When piece measures 49-49-48-48-45-44 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19"-19"-17 3/4"-17 1/4" - NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width - bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (bind off 3 sts on each side of marker).
Continue working back and forth on the needle while AT THE SAME TIME continuing to bind off for sleeve cap in each side at beg of row as follows in each side: 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 1 st 0-1-2-3-3-4 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm / 21 5/8''-22''-22''-22½''-22½''-22¾''. Bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side before the remaining sts are bound off.
Now piece measures approx. 56-57-57-58-58-59 cm / 22''-22½''-22½''-22¾''-22¾''-23¼''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew collar tog mid back and sew on to back of neck.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.05.2019
Correction - BACK PIECE: 2 sts 0-1-1-2-4-5 times and dec 1 st 1-0-1-1-1-2 times = 40-40-44-46-46-48 sts...Continue to dec 1 st on next row from shoulder = 14-14-15-16-15-16 sts. Correction - FRONT PIECE: Bind off and dec for armhole in the side as on back piece = 25-25-27-28-28-29 sts.... When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31, bind off the outermost 15-15-15-16-15-16 sts for shoulder = 10-10-12-12-13-13 sts

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Mieke wrote:

Bedankt voor de reactie maar ik begrijp het niet goed. Als ik steken toevoeg dan wordt de kraag toch breder maar niet de hals volgens mij ?? Zou ook niet weten hoe ik de extra steken moet minderen richting schouder ?? Graag een reactie

15.09.2022 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Je gaf aan dat je steken toe wilt voegen aan de ribbel, dus bij de kraag. Daarmee wordt het voorpand breder bij het deel van de kraag, dus de kraag zelf ook, die doorloopt naar het achterpand.

24.09.2022 - 12:34

country flag Mieke Kouters wrote:

Hallo, ik ga dit vest breien met 3 draden kid silk. Heb het eerder gebreid met melody en vond toen dat de voorpanden wat breder hadden mogen zijn. Kan ik bv 2 of 3 extra steken aan de ribbel toevoegen aan elke kant? Volgens mij maakt dat verder niets uit voor het patroon. Graag advies. Groet Mieke

12.09.2022 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Ja, dat is een goed idee. Je kan aan beide voorpanden aan de kant van midden voor steken toevoegen. Da hals wordt dan wel breder, dus kijk even of je het extra aantal steken weer wilt minderen richting de schouder om de breedte van de kraag wel hetzelfde te houden.

14.09.2022 - 11:53

country flag Mieke wrote:

Hallo, ik ga dit vest breien met 3 draden kid silk. Heb het eerder gebreid met melody en vond toen dat de voorpanden wat breder hadden mogen zijn. Kan ik bv 2 of 3 extra steken aan de ribbel toevoegen aan elke kant? Volgens mij maakt dat verder niets uit voor het patroon. Graag advies. Groet Mieke

10.09.2022 - 19:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mieke,

Ja, dat zou je kunnen doen. Je maakt dan eigenlijk alleen de kraag wat breder en dit heeft verder geen invloed op het patroon.

02.10.2022 - 16:24

country flag Eileen wrote:

Hello can I use one strand of drops sky and one strand of drops kid silk to obtain the same tension to follow this pattern please?

26.11.2020 - 15:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Eileen, to replace Melody (a yarn of Group D), you'd need: either 2 threads of a yarn from group B (Drops Sky) or, if you work with 1 thread of Sky and 1 of Kid Silk, with the same needle as the one recommended, you can make the garment, but it will have a more open texture. You can read more detailed information in the following section: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=5110&cid=19#question3 Happy knitting!

26.11.2020 - 22:57

country flag Susanne Liebe wrote:

Hvad er strikkefastheden? Kan ikke se den i forklaringen

28.04.2020 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne :) DROPS STRØMPEP OG RUNDP (80 cm) nr 8 – eller det p.nr du skal bruge for at få 12 m x 14 p glatstrik på 10 x 10 cm.

28.04.2020 - 15:15

country flag Manja wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte die Jacke stricken mit der Wolle Melody, in S. Nach den ersten Reihen habe ich gemessen u. das Rückenteil ist viel zu groß, jenseits von den angegebenen cm. Gibt es da eine Korrektur? Danke für die Hilfe! 🤗

17.08.2017 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Manja, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Nach Bündchen werden Sie abnehmen, so daß die Breite stimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.08.2017 - 11:52

country flag Coetma wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour ces précieux conseils. Bonne journée

24.03.2017 - 08:47

country flag Coetma wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse trės rapide. Il me reste une question .....quel type de couture pour fixer le col à l'encolure ?

23.03.2017 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Coetma, vous assemblez les fins de rangs (col) le long des mailles de l'encolure dos, vous pouvez utiliser le même type de couture que pour des manches assemblées au dos et au devant. Bon tricot!

23.03.2017 - 17:19

country flag Coetma wrote:

Bonjour Comment faut il faire pour assembler le col ?

23.03.2017 - 16:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Coetma, Assemblez d'abord entre elles les 2 parties du col (= les 11-13 m (cf taille) tricotées en rangs raccourcis à la fin du devant droit et du devant gauche), puis vous pouvez coudre le col le long de l'encolure dos. Bon tricot!

23.03.2017 - 16:19

country flag Mieke wrote:

Ok bedankt, ik had het verkeerd begrepen maar snap het nu :-)

27.02.2017 - 19:38