DROPS Baby 2-3
Size: 3 – 6/9 -12/18 -24 months

Materials: DROPS Alpaca, from Garnstudio

The whole set:
200-200-250-250 g color no 2917, mint
100-100-100-100 g color no 2919, dark mint
200-200-250-250 g, yellow
50-50-50-50 g color no 3140, pink
50-50-50-50 g color no 6250, blue

Jacket only:
100-100-150-150 g color no 2917, mint
50-50-50-50 g, yellow
50-50-50-50 g color no 3140, pink
50-50-50-50 g color no 6250, blue

Pants only:
150-150-200-200 g,yellow
+ a remnant mint

Hat only:
100-100-150-150 g color no 2917, mint
50-50-50-50 g color no 2919, dark mint
Mittens or socks only:
50-50-50-50 g color no 2919, dark mint

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

DROPS buttons, 5 pcs

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the RS.

Front and back piece:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 120-132-144-158 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with mint and work 3-3-3-4 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, at the same time inc 3-3-3-13 sts evenly on round = 123-135-147-171 sts. When piece measures 4-4-4.5-4.5 cm continue in M.1 with 1 edge st each side. After M.1 continue in M.2.
When piece measures 15-16-19-20 cm work next row as follows from RS: 29-32-35-41 sts of M.2 = front piece, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 57-63-69-81 sts of M.2 = back piece, bind off 4 sts for armhole, 29-32-35-41 sts of M.2 = front piece.
Now complete front and back pieces separately.

Front piece: = 29-32-35-41 sts.
Continue in pattern.
Bind off to shape the armhole on every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times = 25-28-31-37 sts.
When piece measures 18-20-23-26 cm continue in M.3 and then complete piece in mint. At the same time when piece measures 22-24-28-30 cm bind off to shape the neckline on every other row: 5-6-8-9 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times.
bind off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-35 cm.

Back piece: = 57-63-69-81 sts.
Bind off to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 49-55-61-73 sts.
When piece measures 24-27-31-33 cm bind off the middle 21-23-27-29 sts for neck and dec 2 sts on neckline on next row. Bind off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-35 cm.

Sleeve:
Cast on 38-40-40-42 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with mint and work 2-2-3-3 cm Rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, at the same time inc 2-4-8-10 sts evenly on round = 40-44-48-52 sts.
When piece measures 3-3-4-4 cm continue in M.1 – make sure to place a pattern repeat mid upper sleeve. After M.1 complete piece in M.2.
At the same time after Rib, inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 9-9-10-10 times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 4th round
Size 6/9 months: on every 5th round
Size 12/18 + 24 months: on every 5th and 6th round alternately
= 58-62-68-72 sts.
When piece measures 15-19-21-23 cm bind off 4 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 5 sts 3 times. Bind off when sleeve measures 18-22-24-25 cm.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 70-80 sts along left front piece on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with mint and work 3 cm / 1'' Rib.
Repeat along right front piece but after 1 cm / 3/8'' make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row. Pick up 90-100 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with mint and work 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib, bind off. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.
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PANTS:

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Right leg:
Cast on 60-70-70-80 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with mint and knit 6-8-8-8 cm of M.5, but after 2 rounds change to yellow.
After M.5 change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and continue in M.6, at the same time inc 16-10-14-8 sts evenly on first round = 76-80-84-88 sts.
When piece measures 16-18-21-25 cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam.
When piece measures 18-20-23-27 cm bind off 3 sts each side = 72-76-80-84 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Left leg: like right leg.

Pants: Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle and inc 1 st each side on both legs = 146-154-162-170 sts.
Now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every 3rd round: 1 st 4 times, at the same time dec mid front on every 3rd round on both sides of the middle 2 sts: 2 sts 5 times as follows: K2 tog into back of st, K2 middle sts, K2 tog = 144-152-160-168 sts.
When piece measures 35-39-44-49 cm change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5, at the same time dec evenly on first round to 136-140-150-160 sts.
Work 2 cm / 3/4'' stockinette st, P 1 round, 2 cm / 3/4'' stockinette st, bind off. Fold edge double and fasten. Insert a string.
Sew tog split on inside of legs
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HAT:
Head circumference: 42-45-45-50 cm

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 210-220-230-240 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with mint and work 1.5-1.5-2.5-2.5 cm stockinette st, change to dark mint and work 2 rounds stockinette st, P 1 round (= folding edge, measure piece from here), 1.5-1.5-2.5-2.5 cm stockinette st.
Change back to mint, at the same time inc 6-8-10-12 sts evenly on round = 216-228-240-252 sts. Continue in M.4, at the same time K tog the first 2 sts in M.4 a total of 6 times as follows: size 3 months: on every 3rd round, size 6/9 months: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately, size 12/18 months: on every 4th round, size 24 months: on every 4th and 5th round alternately = 108-114-120-126 sts.
When piece measures 9-10-11-12 cm work 1 round in stockinette st, at the same time dec 14-16-12-10 sts evenly = 94-98-108-116 sts. Change to needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work 4-4-5-5 cm Rib. Change back to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, at the same time inc 0-2-4-8 sts evenly = 94-100-112-124 sts. Now put 12-14-16-16 sts mid front on a thread and continue for hood back and forth on needle. Work stockinette st, at the same time dec towards mid front on every other row: 2 sts twice, then on every 3rd row: 1 st 3 times = 68-72-82-94 sts.
When piece measures 10-11-12-13 cm from Rib bind off 23-24-27-31 sts each side. Continue in stockinette st on the middle 22-24-28-32 sts for 9-10-11-12 cm, bind off.
Sew hat tog at top.
Pick up approx 110-136 sts round opening on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with mint and work 2 cm / 3/4'' Rib. Fold edge double at bottom and fasten.
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SOCKS:
Foot length: 10-11-12-14 cm

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 in stockinette sts = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

The sock is worked in the round. Cast on 34-36-36-38 sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with dark mint and work 1.5 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and stockinette st.
When piece measures 7-8-8-9 cm work 3 cm / 1'' stockinette st back and forth on 18 sts mid back for heel.
Heel decreases:
Row 1 (= RS): K12, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece,
Row 2: slip 1 st as if to P, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece,
Row 3: slip 1 st as if to K, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece,
Row 4: slip 1 st as if to P, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece,
Row 5: slip 1 st as if to K, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece,
Row 6: slip 1 st as if to P, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn the piece,
Row 7: K2 tog, K8, K2 tog into back of st
= 10 sts left on heel. Pick up 7-7-8-8 sts on each side of heel = 40-42-44-46 sts. Now dec 1 st on every round on both sides of the upper 16-18-18-20 sts a total of 4-4-5-5 times = 32-34-34-36 sts.
When foot measures 7-8-9-11 cm insert a marker each side. Now dec 1 st on each side of markers (4 dec per round) on every other round a total of 4-4-5-5 times and then on every round twice.
Cut the thread, pull though remaining sts and fasten.
_____________________________________________________

MITTENS:
Hand length: 9-10-11-12 cm.

DROPS double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm / US 1.5 and 2.5

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 34-34-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with dark mint and work 6 cm / 2 3/8'' Rib.
Change to needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and continue in stockinette st, at the same time inc 0-4-2-4 sts evenly = 34-38-38-40 sts.
When piece measures 12-13-13-15 cm insert a marker each side and dec on both sides of markers on every and every other round alternately: 1 st 7-7-8-8 times = 6-6-6-8 sts.
Cut thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.02.2024
Pattern has been updated. Correction armholes in each side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = pink
symbols = blue
symbols = mint
symbols = mint, P
symbols = yellow
symbols = yellow, P
symbols = Put 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Copla wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas vos calculs pour les diminutions des devants, si on a 32 m et qu'on rabat 1 fois 2 et 1 fois 1, il ne reste pas 28 m

01.02.2024 - 13:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Copla, les explications des emmanchures ont été corrigées, il faut en fait diminuer 2 x 1 m (et pas seulement 1 x), merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

02.02.2024 - 09:51

country flag May wrote:

Kan dere forklare litt bedre hvordan det felles til tå? Jeg har bare strikket "voksensokker", der det felles i sidene ; spiss tå. Jeg skjønner ingenting av forklaringen i denne oppskriften

13.12.2021 - 19:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hei May. Dette er en gml oppskrift og forklaringen var litt annerledes da. Men se om du skjønner det litt bedre med denne teksten: ...Når foten måler 7-8 (9-11) cm (fra hellfellingens start), sett 1 merketråd i hver side av foten. Nå felles det 1 maske på hver side av merketråden (4 fellinger pr omg) . Fell slik: 1 maske på hver side av merketråden x 4-4 (5-5) ganger på hver 2.pinne og 1 maske på hver side av merketråden x 2 på hver pinne. Trekk tråden dobbelt gjennom de siste m og sy til. mvh DROPS Design

14.12.2021 - 13:02

country flag Susanna wrote:

Luvan,stickar man den fram och tillbaka eller runt?

14.03.2021 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanna. Du börjar att sticka den runt (den nedersta delen) och sedan när man kommer upp till ansiktet sätts maskor på en tråd och arbetet stickas fram och tillbaka. Mvh DROPS Design

17.03.2021 - 07:58

country flag Ursula Pongratz wrote:

Hallo, warm muss bei den Beinen der Hose die Arbeit geteilt werden und was mache ich am Schluss mit der Öffnung?

18.02.2021 - 14:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Pongratz, bei den Beinen werden nach 18-20 (23-27) cm 3 Maschen auf beiden Seiten abgeketet, am Ende der Hose nähen Sie die 6 Maschen zwischen den Beinen (vorne + hinten) zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.04.2021 - 14:27

country flag Lene Lyndrup wrote:

Kan man strikke den i retstrik, eller er målene ikke ens i retstrik og glatstrik ? (Jeg strikker ikke i forskellige farver eller bruger mønsteret, bruger bare modellen :-))

19.07.2020 - 16:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, Der går flere pinde i højden på 10 cm i retstrik, det vil sige at du bruger lidt mere garn, men ellers kan du absolut strikke denne model i retstrik :)

28.07.2020 - 12:27

country flag Kim wrote:

Do you have this pattern for crocheting? I really am bad at knitting.

15.08.2019 - 02:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, this is only a knitted pattern, but you can . Happy crocheting!

15.08.2019 - 10:20

country flag Anne -Dorte Krog Pedersen wrote:

Hej Jeg forstår ikke opskriften på ærmer. Fra :1 m 9-9 (10-10) gange på 3 mnd: hver 4.p 6/9 mnd: hver 5.p 12/18 + 24 mnd: skiftevis hver * 5.og 6.p *. Håber i kan hjælpe mig Med venlig hilsen Anne-Dorte

02.07.2019 - 00:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne-Dorte. Du tar ut 1 m midt under ærmet på hver side af midtm. Størrelse 3 mnd: hver 4. p totalt 9 ganger, størrelse 6/9 mnd: hver 5.p totalt 9 ganger, størrelse 12/18 mnd + 24 mnd: skiftevis hver * 5.og 6.p * totalt 10 ganger. Lycka till!

04.07.2019 - 07:24

country flag Medjbour wrote:

I like this one a lot

08.06.2018 - 20:13

country flag Saara wrote:

Mikä olisi sopiva vastaava lanka tähän ohjeeseen?

05.04.2016 - 20:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei! Lanka-linkin alta löydät Lankaryhmämme. Camelia-lankaa voit korvata esim. DROPS Safran- tai Alpaca-langalla. Nämä langat kuuluvat Lankaryhmään A, joten sieltä löydät muita lankoja, joiden neuletiheys on sama.

08.04.2016 - 16:09