DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 6-13
Sizes: 0/3-6/9-12/18 months (2-3/4-5/6 years).

CARDIGAN:
Finished measurements: 50-56-62 (70-76-80) cm

Materials: Garnstudio BABY-ULL
(100% superwash merino wool)
50 g./175 m./190 yards
200-200-200 (250-250-250) g. Col. 29, natural with multi-color dots

DROPS 2 mm and 2.5 mm circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

5-5-6 (7-7-7) DROPS wood-buttons (button no. 503).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CARDIGAN

Gauge: 26 sts and 42 rows on larger needle in seed st = 10 x 10 cm .

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts):
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *
Row 2: * P 1, K 1 *
Seed Stitch (on an odd number of sts): All rows: K 1, *P 1, K 1*
Seed Stitch (worked in the round):
Row 1: * knit 1, purl 1 *
Row 2: * knit the purl sts from the previous row and purl the knit sts from the previous row *

Buttonholes: Make buttonholes on the appropriate buttonband (right for girls, left for boys) spaced as follows:
Size 0/3 months: 1-6.5-12-17.5-23 cm

Size 6/9 months: 1-7-13-19-25 cm

Size 12/18 months: 1-6.5-12-18-29 cm

Size 2 years: 1-6.5-11.5-17-22.5-27.5 cm

Size 3/4 years: 1-7-13-19-25-31 cm

Size 5/6 years: 1-7.5-14-20.5-27-33.5 cm

Make buttonholes as follows: Bind off the 4th and 5th sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off st on the next row.

Without shaped armholes:
Body: Instead of binding off for armholes divide the work into 3 parts on the first row of binding-off (back = 1/2 of sts, fronts = each 1/2 of number of sts from the back), knit the work straight up in 3 parts.
Sleeves: At the first binding-off each side of marker (for the sleeve cap) bind off all sts.

Body: Knit the cardigan back and forth on the needles. Cast on 142-158-174 (198-214-222) sts (including 7 edge sts on each side for the buttonbands) on smaller circular needles and knit 4 rows garter st. Remember to make buttonholes on the appropriate buttonband, see instructions above. Change to larger needles and seed st, keeping the 7 sts at each side in garter st for the buttonbands. When the work measures 20-21-24 (28-29-31) cm , knit the next row as follows: 35-39-43 (49-53-55) for the front, bind off 8 sts for the armhole, 56-64-72 (84-92-96) sts for the back, bind off 8 sts for the armhole, 35-39-43 (49-53-55) for the front. Knit the rest of each part separately.

Front: = 35-39-43 (49-53-55) sts. Bind off for armholes every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 (2-3-1) times, 1 st 1-1-1 (2-1-1) times = 29-33-37 (40-43-49) sts. When the work measures 24-26-30 (34-38-41) cm bind off for the neck every other row: 11-13-14 (15-17-17) sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, dec 1 st 1 time. Bind off all sts when the work measures 30-32-36 (41-45-48) cm .

Back: = 56-64-72 (84-92-96) sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 44-52-60 (66-72-84) sts. When the work measures 28-30-34 (39-43-46) cm , bind off the center 14-18-20 (22-26-26) sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time, dec 1 st 1 time. Bind off all sts when the work measures 30-32-36 (41-45-48) cm .

Sleeves: Cast on 40-40-42 (44-44-50) sts on larger double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 4 rows garter st. Then knit seed st to finished dimensions. At the same time, when the work measures 3 cm , inc 1 st each side of marker 6-9-10 (12-20-19) times:
Size 0/3 mos.: every 6th row
Sizes 6/9 mos. + 12/18 mos. + 2 years: alternately every 5th and 6th row
Size 3/4 years: every 4th row
Size 5/6 years: alternately every 3rd and 4th rows
= 52-58-62 (68-84-88) sts. When the work measures 13-16-18 (20-23-27) cm bind off 4 sts each side of marker, and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off for sleeve caps on each side every other row: 3 sts 0-0-1 (1-2-2) times, 2 sts 0-1-1 (1-1-2) times, dec 1 st 11-9-8 (10-8-3) times, bind off 2 sts 0-1-1 (1-1-3) times, 3 sts 1-1-1 (1-2-2) times, bind off all sts. The work measures approx. 19-22-24 (27-30-33) cm .

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 70-90 sts around the neck (not over the buttonband) from the wrong side on smaller needles and knit garter st back and forth on the needles. At the same time inc 1 st on each side edge every 3rd row 3 times. When the collar measures 4.5 cm dec 1 st at each side every 3rd row 3 times, then 1 st every other row 1 time. Bind off 3 sts every other row 1 time, 4 sts every other row 1 time. Bind off all sts. The collar measures approx. 7 cm . Sew on sleeves and buttons.
________________________________________



TROUSER:

Size: 0/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 mos. (2 - 3/4) years
Hip measurement: 57 - 59 - 61 (65 - 65)cm .

Materials: Garnstudio BABY-ULL
(100% superwash merino wool) 50 g
100-150-150 (200-200) g. Col. 02, natural

DROPS 2.5 mm needle, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 26 sts and 52 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm .

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Legs (make two identical): Cast on 64-70-72 (74-78) sts (including 1 st on each side for a seam) and knit garter st. When the work measures 8 cm , inc 1 st on each side (inside the edge sts to maintain a smooth edge for the seam) 7-4-8 (11-12) times:
Sizes 0/3 mos + 12/18 mos + 2 yrs + 3/4 yrs: every 2 cm
Size 6/9 mos: every 4 cm
= 78-78-88 (96-100) sts (including 1 edge st on each side). When the work measures 22-24-27 (31-34) cm , bind off 4 sts on each side = 70-70-80 (88-94) sts. Put the work aside.

Trouser: Put both legs on the same needle = 140-140-160 (176-188) sts. Put a marker between the two pieces for the center front and knit the trouser back and forth on the needles. Inc 1 st on each side for the center back seam. Then inc 1 st at the side edges (center back) and at the same time dec 1 st each side of the center front marker (1 st in from the marker) every 4th row:
Side edges (back): 7-7-7 (7-4) times
Marker (front): 4-2-9 (12-15) times
(Work the center front decreases as follows: before the marker: K 2 tog and after the marker: slip 1, knit 1, psso)
= 146-150-156 (166-166) sts. When the work measures 42-46-51 (56-60) cm dec 26-26-26 (30-30) sts evenly distributed on the next row = 120-124-130 (136-136) sts and knit 3 cm more in garter st, then 3 cm stockinette st for a facing. Bind off all sts.

Assembly: Sew together the legs and the center back of the trouser. Fold the facing over against the wrong side to make a pocket for the elastic and sew. Pull an appropriate length of elastic through. Fold up the legs so that there is a 4 cm cuff.
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HAT
Size: 0/3 - 6/9 (12/18 - 24) mos.

DROPS needle size 2.5 mm , or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge: 26 sts and 52 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm .

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Hat: The hat is worked from one side of the head to the other -- the edge shaping forms points on both sides.
Cast on 33-38 (42-46) sts and knit garter st. Knit 1 row, increasing 1 st on the right side and decreasing 1 st on the left side. Establish pattern as follows:
1st row (right side): K 2, yarn over (yo), knit until 4 sts remain; K 2 tog into back of stitch, K 2.
2nd row (wrong side): Knit across row until you reach the yo from the previous row, knit the yo in the back of the st and then K 2.
Repeat these 2 rows until the work measures 5.5 - 6 (6.5 - 7) cm .
Dec 1 st on the right side and inc 1 st on the left side as follows:
1st row (right side): K 1, sl 1, K 1, psso, knit until 2 sts remain, yo, K 2.
2nd row (wrong side): K 2, K 1 into back of the yo, knit to the end of the row.
Repeat these 2 rows until an additional 5.5 - 6 (6.5 - 7) cm have been worked. Continue in garter st, increasing 1 st on the right side every 4th row and decreasing 1 st on the left side every other row until the work measures 15.5 - 17 (17.5 - 18) cm from the start. This is the center of the hat. Put a marker on each side of the work. Continue to knit the other half - but work all shaping in reverse. Bind off when the work measures 31-34 (35-36) cm .

Assembly: The front is the part of the work which has three whole points and the back is the part of the work which has 2 whole points and 2 half points. Sew the hat together in the back by sewing the first half point against the first half of the first whole point. Then sew the other half of the first whole point to the first half of the second whole point. Then sew the other (second) half of the second whole point to the last half point. Finally, sew the hat together in the center of the back.

I-cord: Cast on 4 sts on double-pointed needles and knit the first row. * Do not turn the work, but bring the yarn behind the work, tighten the yarn and knit the sts again from the right side. * Repeat from * - * until the cord measures 15-15 (16-17) cm , bind off. Knit another cord and sew them onto the wrong side of the points on each side of the hat.
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SOCKS

Sock's foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm


DROPS 2 mm and 2.5 mm needles, or sizes required to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 2.5 mm crochet hook, or size required to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 26 sts and 52 rows on larger needle in garter st = 10 x 10 cm .

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Rib: *knit 1, purl 1*. Repeat from * - *.

Sock: Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on smaller needle and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm rib back and forth on the needles (the edges are the center back). Knit 1 row stockinette st and change to larger needle and at the same time decrease 10-14-8 (12-8) sts evenly distributed across the row = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts. Knit Eyelet Border on the next row from the right side as follows (this is not necessary on larger sizes): *K 2 tog, yarn over *, repeat from * - *. Knit 1 row stockinette st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a stitch holder on each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm in garter st over the center 12-12-14 (18-18) sts.

Put the sts from the stitch holders back on the needles and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the center piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts on needles. Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm garter st over all sts and at the same time, after 2 - 2.5 - 2.5 (3 - 3) cm of garter st, dec 1 st at each side and knit 2 together on each side of the 2 center sts until 3-4-4 (5-5) cm in all have been knit. Bind off and sew the seam under the foot and up along the ribbing with sts. Crochet a chain of approx. 30-35 cm and pull it through the eyelet border.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Hannele wrote:

Tehdäänkö lisäykset ja kavennukset aina työn oikealla puolella?

26.08.2023 - 15:58

DROPS Design answered:

Kaikki lisäykset tehdään työn oikealla puolella. Kun työstä päätetään silmukoita, tämä tehdään aina kerroksen alussa (eli myös nurjalta puolelta).

05.09.2023 - 13:44

country flag Isabelle TURNER wrote:

For the hat, if i decrease 1 st every other row but increase every 4 rows, i am l decreasing more than i am increasing and my hat is getting smaller. can you explain?

21.08.2023 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Turner, yes correct, you will decrease the number of stitches until the half of the hat will be worked, then you work reversed, increasing more than you decrease. In this lesson we show how to work such a hat, this might help you. Happy knitting!

22.08.2023 - 09:20

country flag ANGELA BRITO wrote:

No gorro, após chegar a metade do gorro, repito ao contrário pelo início criando o bico , ou continuo ponto jarreteira liso, diminuindo de 4 em 4 do direito e aumentando 2 em 2 do avesso? Obrigada. Ângela

23.02.2019 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bom dia, Passa a inverter os aumentos e as diminuições, ou seja: na carreira 1, por exemplo: (direito): faz a laçada no fim, e as 2 ms/pts tricotadas juntamente em meia no princípio da carreira. O mesmo se aplica para as carreiras do avesso. Bons tricôs!

27.02.2019 - 12:10

country flag Sabine wrote:

Ich bin gerade dabei die Decke zu Stricken und bin etwas verwirrt was die Abkürzungen angeht: Bei der Musterbeschreibungsteht etwas von 1-12 Ndl.. Müsste es hier nicht 1-12. Reihe heißen? Ich glaube bei den anderen Anleitungen ist das auch der Fall.

11.12.2018 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, ja genau, es sind hier 1.12. bzw 13.24. Reihen gemeint. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

12.12.2018 - 09:16

country flag Inger wrote:

Vad menar ni när det står bålen ?

27.11.2018 - 22:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger. Bolen er kroppen på jakken - altså det som ikke er ermene. Det kalles ofte bol om det strikkes rundt/i 1 del. Om de strikkes hver for seg heter det ofte forstykke og bakstykke. God fornøyelse

28.11.2018 - 09:16

country flag Lene Gregorius wrote:

Ang sokker. Når der står luk 10 masker, er det så fordelt henover hele pinden?

11.03.2018 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, ja det stemmer, du tager 10 masker ind jævnt fordelt på omgangen. God fornøjelse!

14.03.2018 - 16:20

country flag Maya wrote:

Hallo, was für Masse hat diese Babydecke? Ich konnte sie in der Beschreibung nicht finden. Gruss Maya

18.10.2015 - 10:06

DROPS Design answered:

Sie finden die Größe bei der Anleitung für die Decke ganz unten, es ist die letzte Anleitung vor der Maßskizze der Jacke. Die Decke kann in zwei Größen gestrickt werden.

18.10.2015 - 17:33

country flag Angelika Meyer wrote:

Hallo, da ich die Babydecke mit der Karisma-Wolle am Anfang etwas lose gestrickt habe, möchte ich nun wissen, ob ich die Decke am Anfang aufribbeln kann und ggf. 3 Kraus-Rippen und 3 Karo-Muster Reihen neu stricken kann? Sollte ich evtl. die Decke vor der Umhäkelung waschen und (spannen?)? Vielen Dank Angelika

13.10.2015 - 15:27

DROPS Design answered:

Vom Anfang her aufribbeln ist etwas problematisch, das macht der Faden nicht mit. Wenn der Unterschied in der Strickfestigkeit nicht allzu groß ist, können Sie die Decke anschließend vorsichtig waschen und spannen, das würde sich in dem Fall anbieten, auch für die Umhäkelung. Damit können Sie leichte Unterschiede in der Festigkeit ausgleichen.

16.10.2015 - 12:30

country flag Angelika Meyer wrote:

Hallo, nochmal zu Babydecke (6/13). Ich habe inzwischen einige Karomuster gestrickt. Bei mir sieht das aber nicht so schön glatt aus, wie auf dem Bild.Die Übergänge von links und rechts Gestricktem treten sehr deutlich(sehr plastisch-wellig) hervor. Gibt sich das noch, wenn das fertige Stück von der Nadel ist? Soll evtl.feucht gedämpft werden? Und ist auf dem Bild evtl. nicht die Wolle Karisma? Mit freundlichem Gruß Angelika Meyer

12.09.2015 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Der Übergang von glatt rechts zu glatt links tritt in der Regel recht plastisch hervor. Sie können die Decke aber anschließend waschen und in Form ziehen, dann sollte sich das etwas geben. Die Decke ist in Karisma gestrickt, das ist richtig, die Wollmenge ist unten bei der Anleitung angegeben.

12.09.2015 - 20:59

country flag Angelika Meyer wrote:

Hallo, ich bin dabei die Babydecke( 6/13) mit der Karisma Wolle zu stricken. Die Wolle fällt sehr dünn aus und obwohl ich fest stricke, ist die Nadelstärke 3 fast noch zu viel. Meine eigentliche Frage aber ist: Werden die Randmaschen durchgestrickt oder wird z. B. die 1. Masche einer Reihe re abgehoben, damit u.U. der Rand nicht wellt ?. Mit freundlichem Gruß A. Meyer

05.09.2015 - 13:37

DROPS Design answered:

Sie können die Randmaschen kraus rechts stricken, die Randmaschen sind auch in der Anleitung schon in den 3 kraus-re-M, die Sie am Anfang und am Ende stricken, enthalten. Wellen sollte sich dadurch nichts.

08.09.2015 - 14:59