DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cozy Cuddle

Crochet set of striped jacket and slippers in DROPS Snow. Sizes baby and children from 1 month to 4 years.

DROPS Baby 14-25
JACKET and BOOTIES:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio

JACKET:
150-200-200(250-250) g colour no 01, off-white
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 31, light mint
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 37, mint-mix
50 g for all sizes in the following colours:
no 13, camel, 23 dark beige +
Girl: no 30, baby pink and no 36, rose-mix
Boy: no 12, ice blue and no 21 jeans blue

DROPS Crochet Hook size 9 mm

DROPS wooden button, no 512, 4-4-4 (5-5) pcs


BOOTIES:
100-100-100 (100-100) g colour no 01, off-white
DROPS Crochet Hook size 7 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Crochet Gauge: Width of 4 tr-groups and 4 rows using crochet hook size 9 mm = 10 x 10 cm

Stripes: See diagram M.1. 1 row in diagram = 1 row of tr’s.

Crochet info 1: At the beginning of each row of tr’s replace the 1st tr with 3 ch, and finish each row with 1 tr in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row.

Crochet info 2: 1 tr-group = 2 tr in same st. ½ tr-group = 3 ch (equals 1 tr)


Back piece: Read Crochet info 1. Crochet 31-34-40 (43-46) ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) using Snow 01 and crochet hook size 9 mm. Crochet stripes after M.1 as follows:
1st row: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, *skip 2 ch, 2 tr in next ch*, repeat from *-* = 10-11-13 (14-15) tr-groups on row, turn the piece
2nd row: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr between the first 2 tr-groups from previous row (crochet at top of st and not round the whole st), *2 tr between the next 2 tr-groups*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 tr at the top of the last tr = 1 tr (3 ch) + 10-11-13 (14-15) tr-groups on row – see Crochet info 2.
Repeat 2nd row.

When piece measures approx 20-23-23 (27-30) cm inc for sleeves each side as follows: Cut the yarn. Crochet 16-19-19 (25-28) ch, crochet as before over the back piece, at the end of row crochet 16-19-19 (25-28) ch. Turn the piece and crochet as explained for 1st row so that the pattern continues as before = 1 tr (3 ch) + 20-23-25 (30-33) tr-groups on row.
When piece measures 30-33-36 (40-45) cm cut the thread.

Left front piece: Crochet 16-16-19 (22-22) ch (incl 3 ch to turn with) using Snow 01 and crochet hook size 9 mm. Crochet stripes after M.1 and tr-groups as described for back piee = 1 tr (3 ch) +5-5-6 (7-7) tr groups after 2nd row.
When piece measures approx 20-23-23 (27-30) cm inc for sleeve at side as described for back piece. Continue pattern as before = 1 tr (3 ch) + 10-11-12 (15-16) tr-groups on row. When piece measures 30-33-36 (40-45) cm cut the thread.

Right front piece: Crochet as left front piece, but mirrored.
Cuffs: Crochet 2 rows of tr along sleeve edge using Snow 01 = approx 1 tr (3 ch) + 8-8-10 (10-11) tr on row.
Front edge: Crochet 1 row of tr-groups along the front edge of both front pieces using Snow 01 = approx 12-13-14 (16-18) tr-groups.

Assembly: Sew shoulder/sleeve seams – start at sleeve edge and work towards neckline – leave 5-5 tr-groups mid back for neck opening. Sew underarm and side seams.

Hood: Use Snow 01. Crochet 1 dc in 1st st, 3 ch, approx 13-14-15 (16-17) tr-groups round neckline as described for jacket. Continue with tr-groups until hood measures approx 22-24-26 (29-30) cm, cut the thread. Fold hood double and sew top seam with neat sts.
Sew on buttons on left front piece – the top one approx 1-2 cm from neckline and the bottom one approx 10-12 cm from lower edge.

BOOTIES:
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm

Crochet Gauge: Width of 10 dc and 11 rows using crochet hook size 7 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet info 1: At the beginning of each row of dc’s replace the 1st dc with 1 ch, and finish each row with 1 dc in ch from beginning of previous row.

Crochet the bootie in one piece and sew seams mid front and mid back. Crochet 7-8-9 (10-11) ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) using crochet hook size 7 mm and Snow 01. Crochet rows – read Crochet Info 1 – start in 2nd ch from hook. = 7-8-9 (10-11) dc on row. When piece measures 7-8-9 (10-10) cm inc at one side for foot by crocheting 3-3-3 (404) new ch and continue with dc in all sts = 10-11-12 (14-15) dc. When piece measures 15-18-21 (24-26) cm cast off the 3-3-3 (4-4) foot sts by turning the piece just before these sts. Continue with dc over the remaining 7-8-9 (10-11) dc until piece measures 22-26-30 (34-36) cm.

Assembly: Fold bootie double and sew seam mid back and mid front with neat sts – leave an opening of approx 5-6-7 (8-8) cm at the top mid front. Crochet the other bootie.

Pompon: Make 2 small pompons with a diameter of approx 3 cm and attach to top of each bootie.

BLANKET: see pattern 14-21

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.10.2010
When piece measures approx 20-23-23 (27-30) cm inc for sleeves each side as follows: Cut the yarn. Crochet 16-19-19 (25-28) ch, crochet as before over the back piece, at the end of row crochet 16-19-19 (25-28) ch. Turn the piece and crochet as explained for 1st row so that the pattern continues as before = 1 tr (3 ch) + 20-23-25 (30-33) tr-groups on row.
Updated online: 05.05.2015
under HOOD (tr-groups, not only tr):
Hood: Use Snow 01. Crochet 1 dc in 1st st, 3 ch, approx 13-14-15 (16-17) tr-groups round neckline as described for jacket.

Diagram

symbols = off-white no 01
symbols = camel no 13
symbols = light mint no 31
symbols = mint-mix no 37
symbols = rose-mix/jeans blue no 36/21
symbols = baby pink/ice blue no 30/12
symbols = dark beige no 23
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (98)

country flag Sue wrote:

Is there a pattern the same made with 8 ply yarn and a smaller 5 crochet hook. Thanks 😃

05.01.2024 - 13:22

DROPS Design answered:

See previous answer - one of the links could help. Happy crocheting!

05.01.2024 - 15:41

country flag Sue wrote:

Can this pattern be modified with 8 ply yarn and a smaller 4 or 5 hook. Thanks😃

05.01.2024 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sue, this pattern is worked with a bulky yarn, you would have to adapt the pattern to your own tension. Please find all our crocheted jackets for babies here and for kids here. Happy crocheting!

05.01.2024 - 15:41

country flag Emilie wrote:

Rebonjour, et merci pour votre réponse rapide! Il me semble que dans les vidéos , les rayures sont faites avec 2 rangs de la même couleur. Ici on change de couleur à la fin de chaque rang, si j’ai bien compris: alors les fils doivent traverser l’ouvrage, est-ce que vous voyez ce que je veux dire? Comment puis-je faire pour ne pas les couper dans ce cas là ? Merci beaucoup

19.10.2022 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Émilie, on peut effectivement couper le fil dans ce cas-là, ou bien utiliser la technique de cette vidéo qui va permettre de ne pas couper, mais de la faire suivre en hauteur, vous crochèterez ainsi alternativement ou successivement sur l'endroit/sur l'envers, du côté où se trouve le fil dont vous avez besoin. Bon crochet!

20.10.2022 - 09:42

country flag Emilie wrote:

Bonjour, J’aimerais savoir s’il faut couper les fils à chaque changement de couleur ou s’il est possible de faire autrement ? Merci beaucoup, je trouve ce modèle superbe !

19.10.2022 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Émilie et merci :) Vous pouvez faire suivre les fils pour éviter d'avoir à les couper (et d'avoir trop de fils à rentrer) - retrouvez ici quelques astuces supplémentaires. Bon crochet!

19.10.2022 - 16:19

country flag Sheila Eastman wrote:

I do not understand at all how to do the sleeves. What does it mean to crochet over the back piece?Why are you making 2 separate chains? This is very badly explained!You can see that many are confused about the sleeves. I'll have to make up my own solution.

02.07.2022 - 03:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sheila, for the sleeve you cast on and make a chain of 16...28 chain stitches (depending on the size). Now continue working by inserting the hook in the stitch in the back and work according to the pattern. Continue working on the back until finishing the row. When you are at the end of the row, cast on and make a chain of 16...28 stitches (depending on the size). Turn the work and work as explained in the first row on the back. Here is a video on how to cast on the stitches after the back: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=30&lang=en. Happy crocheting!

02.07.2022 - 16:11

country flag Shikk wrote:

Hi, I made it past the sleevs thanks to reading the comments but I cannot for the life of me work out the left front peace. Anyone want to explain? I feel like I'm having brain block.

23.06.2021 - 00:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shikk, can you be more specific, in what exactly you cannot work ut in the front piece ? Happy Crafting.

23.06.2021 - 01:54

country flag Mary wrote:

I was confused at first about the stitches but printed the pattern in english and figured it out. Now I finished the back and I am confused about the sleeves. It says cast on new stitches for sleeves? Do I do the sleeves separate and sew them on at the end? Or do I crochet them on to each side of sweater. I have been crocheting a long time and this pattern is very confusing. I have made lots of baby sweaters but the way this pattern is written I just don't get it. Thanks Mary

24.01.2021 - 02:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, sleeves will be crocheted at each side of the back piece as follows (you should cut the yarn when stated), then crochet new chains for the first sleeve, work the stitches on back piece just as before (as if you wouldn't have cut the yarn and crochet chains before), and crochet new chains at the end of the row for 2nd sleeve. Turn piece and now work as before over all stitches: you have now the new stitches for the sleeves on each side (piece is now looking like a T). Happy crocheting!

25.01.2021 - 09:24

country flag Mary wrote:

Does tr mean treble stitch or Double crochet stitch? In the US treble is different for double and is 9mm crochet hook your size or american size. The chart is unclear to me. Thank you Mary

23.01.2021 - 00:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, make sure you are printed the correct English pattern, ie this jacket is worked with double crochet (US-crochet) / treble crochets (Uk-English) - read more about diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

25.01.2021 - 08:30

country flag Anna wrote:

Bonjour, doit-on crocheter la partie poignet en cercle en assemblant l'avant et l'arrière? Et quelle partie concerne la bordure avant? Tout le pourtour des avants? juste le côté boutons? ou ailleurs? Sur le modèle il me semble qu'une bordure parcours la partie bouton jusqu'au capuchon. Oour les explications du capuchon viennent après les paragraphe "poignet"... Merci d'avance!

23.11.2020 - 22:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anna, vous pouvez faire la bordure des poignets après assemblage ainsi vous pourrez la faire en rond, sans couper le fil. La bordure des devant se fait seulement le long de chaque devant, mais vous pouvez la prolonger autour de la capuche pour un résultat plus "fluide". Bon crochet!

24.11.2020 - 09:40

country flag Sofia wrote:

Found the pattern to this model, nr 14/25 Cozy Cuddle, on this web page: crochetdesignsfree1.blogspot.com/2016/02/shelter-in-crochet-for-children-step-by.html?m=1 Stolen pattern or Ok?

01.03.2020 - 18:35