DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 99-3
Size: S/M –M/L – XL

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
700-800-900 g colour no. 6205, light blue

DROPS crochet hook size 6 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct crochet tension.

2 buttons – approx 2.5 cm in diameter.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet the jacket according to the explanations for the circle.
Start to cast off for the armholes on the 12-13-14 round.
Crochet 2 rounds according to the explanation for cast off for armholes, then continue to crochet according to explanation for the circle.

Crochet tension: 3 rows in the circle using hook size 6 mm and 2 strands Alpaca measures 6.5 cm. After 5th round the circle measures 20 cm in diameter.

Crochet info: Substitute the first dtr each round with 4 ch. Finish each round with a sl st at beg of round.

Measurement tips: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise the sleeves will be too long when wearing the jacket.
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CIRCLE:
Crochet 4 ch with 2 strands Alpaca and make a ring with a sl st in the first ch.
1st round: Crochet 8 dc around the ring
2nd round: Read crochet info! Crochet 3 dtr in each dc. Finish with a sl st at beg. of round = 24 dtr
3rd round: Crochet 1 dtr, *3 ch, skip 1 dtr, 1 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st at the beg. of round = 12 dtr.
4th round: Crochet 3 dtr in the first dtr *3 ch, skip 3 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 1 dtr and 1 sl st at beg. of round = 36 dtr.
5th round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr and 3 dtr in each ch-loop = 72 dtr. The circle now measures approx. 20 cm in diameter.
6th. round: Crochet 1 dtr in the first dtr, *3 ch, skip 1 dtr, 1 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 1 dtr and a sl st at beg. of round = 36 dtr
7th. round: Crochet 3 dtr in the first dtr,* 2 ch, skip 3 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch, skip 3 ch and a sl st at beg. of round = 108 dtr.
8th round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr and 1 dtr in each ch-loop = 144 dtr.
9th round: Crochet 1 dtr in the first dtr, *3 ch, skip 2 dtr, 1 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch, skip 2 dtr and a sl st at beg. of round = 48 dtr
10th round: Crochet 3 dtr in the first dtr *1 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch and a sl st at beg. of round = 144 dtr.
11th round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr and 1 dtr in each ch-loop = 192 dtr.
Remember to cast off for armholes for size S/M – read cast off explanation for round 12 and 13 below!
12th round: *1 dtr, 3 ch, skip 2 dtr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 64 dtr.
Remember to cast off for armholes for size M/L – read cast off explanation for round 13 and 14 below!
13th round: 3 dtr in the first dtr, *2 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* = 192 dtr.
Remember to cast off for armholes for size XL – read cast off explanation for round 14 and 15 below!
14th round: 1 dtr in each dtr, 1 dtr in each ch-loop = 256 dtr.
15th round: 1 dtr in the first dtr, *3 ch, skip 2 dtr, 1 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 86 dtr.
16th round: 3 dtr in the first dtr, *2 ch, 2 dtr in the next dtr, 2 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 215 dtr.
Repeat round 14, 15 and 16 with inc. until the circle measures 100-110-120 cm in diameter.

CAST OFF for armholes as follows:
Size S/M: Crochet armholes according to round 12 below.
12th round: Crochet 1 dtr, 26 ch, skip over 26 dtr, *1 dtr, 3 ch, skip over 2 dtr*, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times, 1 dtr, 26 ch, skip 26 dtr, *1 dtr, 3 ch, skip 2 dtr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 48 dtr.
13th round: Crochet as follows over the 26 ch’s: *3 dtr, 2 ch*, a total of 8 times. Over the dtr crochet as follows: *3 dtr in each dtr, 2 ch*, repeat from *-* = 192 dtr. Continue on round 14 as explained above.
Size M/L: Crochet arm holes according to round 13 below.
13th round: 3 dtr in the first dtr, 30 ch, skip over (1 dtr and 3 ch) a total of 7 times, 3 dtr in the following dtr, *2 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* a total of 15 times, 30 ch, skip over
(1 dtr and 3 ch) a total of 7 times, *2 ch, 3 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 150 dtr.
14th. round: Crochet as follows over the 30 ch’s: 28 dtr. Over the dtr and the ch-loops crochet as follows: 1 dtr in each dtr, 1 dtr in each ch-loop = 256 dtr. Continue on round 15 as explained above.
Size XL: Crochet the armholes according to round 14 below:
14th round: 34 ch, skip over (3 dtr and 2 ch) a total of 8 times, *1 dtr in each of the next 3 dtr, 1 dtr in the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* a total of 16 times, 34 ch, skip over (3 dtr and 2 ch) a total of 8 times *1 dtr in each of the next dtr, 1 dtr in the next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 192 dtr.
15th round: Crochet as follows over the 34 ch: *1 dtr, 3 ch*, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times. Over dtr crochet as follows: 1 dtr, *3 ch, skip over 2 dtr, 1 dtr in the next dtr*, finish with a dtr in the last dtr = 86 dtr. Continue on round 16 as explained above.

SLEEVES: Crochet the sleeves from the armholes and down with 2 strands Alpaca. Crochet around. Remember the crochet info!
1st round: Crochet 52-60-68 dtr around the armhole from the circle and finish with a sl st in the first dtr from beg. of round.
2nd round: Crochet 1 dtr in the first dtr, *3 ch, skip over 3 dtr, 1 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with: Skip over 3 ch and 1 sl st in the first dtr = 13-15-17 dtr.
3rd round: Crochet 2 dtr in the first dtr, *1 ch, skip over 3 ch, 2 dtr in the next dtr*, repeat from *-* and finish with: 1 ch and 1 sl st in beg. of round = 26-30-34 dtr.
4th round: Crochet 1 dtr in each dtr and 2 dtr around each ch = 52-60-68 dtr.
Repeat 2nd, 3rd and 4th round until the sleeve measures 52-54-56 cm from the armhole – read measurement tips.
Cut and sew the thread.

Crochet edge: Crochet an edge around the circle and at the bottom of the sleeves with 2 strands Alpaca as follows: 1st. round: 1 dtr in the first dtr, *2 ch, skip 1.5 - 2 cm, 1 dtr in the next stitch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch and a sl st in the first dtr.
2nd. round: 2 dtr in the first dtr, *4 ch, 2 dtr in the same dtr, 1 ch, 2 dtr in the next dtr* and finish with 4 ch, 2 dtr in the same dtr, 1 ch and 1 sl st in the first dtr. Cut and sew the thread.

Button cover: Crochet 2 ch with 2 strands Alpaca and then crochet 6 dc in the first of the 2 ch and finish round with a sl st in the first dc (= 1st round).
2nd round: 1 ch, crochet 2 dc in each dc and finish with a sl st at beg. of round (= 12 dc)
3rd + 4th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc and finish with a sl st at beg. of round (= 12 dc).
5th. round: 1 ch, crochet 1 dc in every other dc and finish with a sl st at beg. of round (= 6 dc). Put the button inside the cover, sew around and pull tight.
Try on the jacket and place the buttons in the waist on the left side of the jacket in the penultimate round.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.04.2009
CAST OFF for armholes as follows:
Size S/M: Crochet armholes according to round 12 below.
12th round: Crochet 1 dtr, 26 ch, skip over 26 dtr, *1 dtr, 3 ch, skip over 2 dtr*, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times, 1 dtr, 26 ch, skip 26 dtr, *1 dtr, 3 ch, skip 2 dtr*, repeat from *-* until finish round = 48 dtr.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (501)

country flag Tessa wrote:

Hallo, ik wil graag aan het patroon Moonlight Mist beginnen, maar ik lijk nergens te lezen of ik het werkstuk telkens na elke toer moet keren. Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord.

26.01.2024 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Tessa,

Je hoeft het werk niet te keren na elke toer, dus je breit steeds aan dezelfde kant.

28.01.2024 - 18:40

country flag Dee wrote:

Would like this pattern for a 3 to 4 year old please

20.07.2023 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Dee, please see patterns for childdren no 24-1 or 24-6. They are not the same like the adult one, but with some changes you will get something you like. Happy crocheting!

20.07.2023 - 13:15

country flag Sarah Kennedy wrote:

I like it what you have a written pattern but I would like a video to is there 1 on YouTube and what is it called if you have 1?

26.03.2023 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sarah, you can find all relevant videos for making this pattern under the pattern instructions. We don't have a special video for making this pattern step-by-step. Happy crochetting!

26.03.2023 - 21:55

country flag I Won't Pattern Fi wrote:

I won't pattern for 1 year old and 2 year old please

23.02.2023 - 06:45

country flag Joke Sonneveldt wrote:

Ik ben met het vest bezig en dan moet ik toer 12 doen maar die staat alleen bij de maat s/m en ik wil de maat m/l aanhouden daar staat toer 12 niet bij wat moet ik nu doen gewoon toer 13 bij de maat m/l

13.10.2022 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joke,

Het is inderdaad een beetje verwarrend, maar onder de zin 'Begin nu voor maat S/M met het maken van de armsgaten – lees de uitleg voor toer 12 en 13 hieronder!' staat de 12e toer. Nadat je de 12e toer hebt gehaakt ga je verder met de armsgaten voor maat M/L.

26.10.2022 - 10:07

country flag Hanne wrote:

Er det muligt at få opskriften på dansk

17.08.2022 - 11:38

country flag Rika Bakker wrote:

Hallo, ik ben bezig met de stekenverhouding van het patroon. Bij toer 3 zit ik op 8 cm (ipv 6,5)en bij toer 5 op 16 (ipv 20). Wat houd ik nu aan?

24.05.2022 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rika,

Dan heb je een grotere naald nodig. De stekenverhouding is een beetje verwarrend aangegeven. De 20 cm is namelijk de diameter en de 6,5 cm zijn 3 toeren in de hoogte.

27.05.2022 - 08:55

country flag Ailis Lincoln wrote:

Very nice Jacket I intend to make this, Thank you for Sharing such a pretty Jacket. I'm also going to make a smaller version for my Grand Daughters.

06.02.2022 - 06:23

country flag Dana Anderson wrote:

Round 10 ends with a slip stitch to beginning of round, but from row 11 on, there is no slip stitch tp beginning of round. Does this mean we arwe suposed to be working it as a spiral now, rather than in discreet rounds? If so, then the bind off round starting with the 34 chain (XL size) rather than a treble makes sense, but when you get to the end of that round, the stitch count is off by 1. But if still working in discreet rounds, the 34 chain without treble start makes no sense.

13.01.2022 - 22:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Anderson, see Crochet info at the beginning of the pattern: replace each double treble at the beginning of each round with 4 chains, and finish each round with a slip stitch in the 4th chain from the beg of the round. On round 14, crochet first 4 chains, then the 34 chains for armhole, continue round as explained and end with a slip stitch in the 4th chain at the beg of the round. Happy crocheting!

14.01.2022 - 08:55

country flag Anne-karin Lozowski wrote:

Står man skal bruke 2 tråder. er det da nok med 700 gr i str s

10.11.2021 - 09:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne-Karin, ja opskriften er beregnet ud fra 2 tråde :)

10.11.2021 - 10:01