DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Black Vanilla

Knitted cardigan with false English rib variation in DROPS Snow, with a crochet edge in DROPS Puddel. size: S-XXL

DROPS 97-23
Size: XS/S – S/M – L – L/XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
850-950-1050-1150-1250 g colour no. 40, Brown mix
and use: DROPS Puddel from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes, colour no. 03, brown
Yarn alternatives and yardage - see page 2

DROPS pointed needles size 9 mm or size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS crochet hook size 8
DROPS buffalo horn button no. 536: 4 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
DROPS Puddel
DROPS Puddel
94% Mohair, 6% Polyester
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 10 sts x 14 rows on needles size 9 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm and 10 sts x 20 rows in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2 The diagrams are seen from the right side. English Translations for the wording in the diagrams are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.
Increasing tips: Inc inside 1 edge st at the centre front edge as follows: Make a yo, on returning row twist and knit the yo (knit into the back of yo instead of the front).
Button hole: Cast off for button holes at the right front edge as follows: Cast off the 4th st from the edge at the centre front and knit 2 sts in the following st.
Cast off for buttonholes when the piece measures:
Size XS/S: 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm
Size S/M: 20, 30, 40 and 50 cm
Size L: 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm
Size L/XL: 20, 31, 42 and 53 cm
Size XXL: 21, 32, 43 and 54 cm

Back piece: Cast on 48-51-57-60-66 sts (incl.1 edge st each side) sts on needles size 9 mm in Snow. Knit 4 rows of garter sts and continue with M.1 with 1 edge st each side – NB: The pattern starts and finishes the same each side. When the piece measures 40-42-44-45-47 cm continue in garter sts until finished. When the piece measures 46-48-50-51-53 cm loosely cast on each side for sleeves on every other row (i.e. at the end of each row): 1 st 3-3-5-6-9 times, 2 sts 7-7-6-5-2 times and 4-4-2-2-3 sts 1 time = 90-93-95-96-98 sts. When the piece measures 71-74-77-79-82 cm cast off the centre 6-7-7-8-8 sts for the neck. Cast off 1 st on the following row each side towards the neck = 41-42-43-43-44 sts left on each shoulder/sleeve. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 73-76-79-81-84 cm

Left front: Cast on 31-34-37-40-43 sts (incl. of 1 edge st at the side and 6 front band sts at the centre front) on needles size 9 mm in Snow. Knit 4 rows of garter sts. Knit the next row as follows from the side (= RS): 1 edge st, M.2 over the following 24-27-30-33-36 sts and finish with 6 sts of garter sts for the front edge (= front band). Continue until the pattern measures 40-42-44-45-47 cm and then finish the piece in garter sts. When the piece measures 46-48-50-51-53 cm loosely cast on for sleeves as done for the back piece = 52-55-56-58-59 sts. At the same time when the piece measures 49-51-53-54-55 cm inc 1 st inside the 1st front band st for the collar – read increasing tips! On the following row knit 2 extra rows of garter sts over the 7 front band sts (do not knit the other sts). Continue in garter sts over all sts at the same time inc at the centre front on every other row: 1 st 6 times. Then inc on every 4th row 1 st 5 times = 64-67-68-70-71 sts. Knit in garter sts until the piece measures 73-76-79-81-84 cm. Cast off the outermost 41-42-43-43-44 shoulder/sleeve sts = 23-25-25-27-27 collar sts left on needle. Continue to knit the collar (to be sewn to back piece afterwards). Knit in garter sts as follows: *2 rows of garter sts over all sts, 2 rows of garter sts but only over the outermost 15-17-17-19-19 sts towards the centre front*, repeat from *-* until the collar measure 4-4.5-4.5-5-5 cm inside towards the nape of the neck – the collar will then measure approx 8-9-9-10-10 cm on the outside. Put remaining sts on a thread.

Right front: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. Remember to cast off for buttonholes – see explanation above.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder and the sleeve seams with invisible mattress sts – see the School of Handcraft on the main pattern front page. Instructions on how to assemble using mattress sts can be found under Knitting Techniques by clicking on Assembly.
Cuff: Pick up 32-35-35-38-38 sts (incl. of 1 edge st each side) at the bottom of the sleeve on needles size 9 mm in Snow. Knit M.1 with an edge st each side for approx 25 cm. Continue to K 1 row from the RS before casting off loosely. Repeat for the bottom of the other sleeve.
Sew the collar sts from threads tog at the centre back from the RS with invisible mattress sts - to avoid a chunky seam. Sew the collar to the neckline at the nape of the neck- Sew in the edge so the seam doesn’t become too chunky. Sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st.
Crochet edge: Crochet an edge where the garter sts begins, around the collar and down the other side on hook size 8 in Puddel as follows: 1 dc in the first st, 3 ch, continue to crochet 1 tr into each row.

Diagram

symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO + slip 1 st as if to K
symbols = From WS: P tog YO and slipped st
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (44)

country flag Despy wrote:

I feel like my questions must be common but they weren't listed in FAQ and all the questions/comments are in other languages, so sorry. Cast on x stitches (incl. 1 edge stitch each side) - what does this mean? Is it just cast on 2 additional stitches or are they being cast on differently?

17.12.2019 - 04:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Despy, the edge stitches are included in the number of stitches to cast on, this mean when it says to cast on 48 sts and work (garter stitch) then pattern M.1, you will work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, M.1 over the next 46 sts, 1 edge st in garter st. Happy knitting!

17.12.2019 - 09:37

country flag Marian Doedens wrote:

Vraag over de kraag. De steken van de voorpanden die over blijven, moeten op een hulpnaald gezet. Moeten die steken van beide panden (voor de kraag) aan elkaar gezet worden? Hoe? Het is me niet duidelijk.

12.03.2019 - 08:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marian,

Bij de voorpanden brei je op een gegeven moment alleen over de steken van de kraag, dus die brei je een stukje langer. De schouders van het voorpand worden aan de schouders van het achterpand genaaid. De uiteinden van de kraag worden aan elkaar genaaid en daarna wordt de kraag aan de ronding van de hals genaaid.

12.03.2019 - 15:14

country flag VU wrote:

Bonjour Madame, J'aime beaucoup ce modèle pour lequel j'ai acheté la laine nécessaire. Cependant je n'arrive pas à tricoter le point fantaisie M1. Pourriez-vous m'aider ou m'indiquer le tutoriel vidéo. Merci infiniment.

01.03.2018 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vu, tricotez M.1 ainsi: rang 1 (sur l'endroit): *1 jeté (= passez le fil devant l'ouvrage), glissez la m suivante à l'end (laissez le fil devant, en tricotant la m suiv à l'end, il va se positionner juste au-dessus de la m glissée), 2 m end*, répétez de *-* et vous terminez par la 1ère m de M.1. Rang 2 (sur l'envers - et non sur l'endroit comme indiqué correction faite)): tricotez ensemble à l'envers le jeté et la maille glissée, *2 m end, tricotez ensemble à l'envers le jeté et la m glissée*, répétez de *-*. Bon tricot!

01.03.2018 - 11:32

country flag Emily wrote:

Vielen Dank😊

07.02.2016 - 14:39

country flag Emily wrote:

Emily Hallo ihr Lieben😊 Puddel gibt es anscheinend nicht mehr? Welche Wolle kann ich stattdessen für den Kragen nehmen? Dass es einbißchen so wie ein Fell aussieht? Das finde ich bei der Jacke das Beste! Vielen Dank im voraus! Eine schöne Woche wünscht euch Emily

01.02.2016 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Sie können stattdessen Alpaca Bouclé verwenden, das hat einen ähnlichen Charakter. Sie nehmen es dann 2-fädig statt einfädig. 1 Knäuel Alpaca Bouclé reicht, auch wenn Sie es doppelfädig verwenden, denn es hat eine größere Lauflänge als Puddel.

03.02.2016 - 14:55

country flag Emliermann wrote:

Hallo ihr Lieben😊 Puddel gibt es anscheinend nicht mehr? Welche Wolle kann ich stattdessen für den Kragen nehmen? Dass es einbißchen so wie ein Fell aussieht? Das finde ich bei der Jacke das Beste! Vielen Dank im voraus! Einen schönen Sonntag wünscht euch Emily

31.01.2016 - 10:46

DROPS Design answered:

Antwort siehe oben! :-)

03.02.2016 - 15:11

country flag M. Wicht wrote:

Hallo, wie kommen Sie auf 14,75 €uro? bei Gröe XS/S sind es schon ca. 40.- €uro. Gruß M. Wicht

04.03.2014 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wicht,entschuldigen Sie den Fehler, wir haben das gleich korrigiert.

11.03.2014 - 07:56

country flag Jajja wrote:

Hej, jag förstår inte virkbeskrivningen längs kragen. "1 fm i första m, 3 lm, sedan virkas det 1 st i varje v." .Vad står "V":et för? Kan jag få en tydligare förklaring? mvh Jajja

03.09.2007 - 14:51

country flag Connie wrote:

Tak for alle de flotte opskrifter. Her i England er alle strikkeopskrifter uforstaelige og det er umuligt at kobe smart garn. Denne opkrift er en af mine favoritter.

30.12.2006 - 13:49

Mona wrote:

*Älskar* den...snygga färger ni har valt dessutom!

08.10.2006 - 22:20