DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 95-4
Size: XS/S – S - M – L- XL – XXL

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no. 3620, red
50-50-50-100-100-100 g colour no. 2916, dark lime
50-50-100-100-100-100 g colour no. 4050, light purple
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no. 2917, light turquoise
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no. 2923, yellow
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour no. 2915, orange
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no. 2921, cerise

DROPS pointed needle size 5mm and 4.5mm
DROPS crochet hook size 6mm

Accessories: cotton wool for buttons

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows on needles size 5mm with double thread in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Knitting tips: It is important to keep to the knitting tension, especially length-wise. If this proves difficult, you may adjust this by knitting 1 less/extra row of the stripes.

Stripe pattern back and front pieces:
10-11-11-12-12-13 rows yellow + orange
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows orange + cerise
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows orange + red
10-11-11-12-12-13 rows red + cerise
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows cerise + light purple
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows light purple + light turquoise
10-11-11-12-12-13 rows light turquoise + dark lime
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows dark lime + yellow
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows yellow + cerise
10-11-11-12-12-13 rows cerise + red
10-10-11-11-12-12 rows orange + cerise

Stripe pattern sleeves:
11-11-11-12-12-12 rows yellow + orange
12-12-12-12-12-12 rows orange + cerise
11-11-11-11-11-11 rows orange + red
12-12-12-12-12-12 rows red + cerise
11-11-11-11-11-11 rows cerise + light purple
12-12-12-12-12-12 rows light purple + light turquoise
11-11-11-11-11-11 rows light turquoise + dark lime
12-12-12-12-12-12 rows dark lime + yellow
11-11-11-11-11-11 rows yellow + cerise
11-11-11-12-12-12 rows red + cerise
11-11-11-11-11-11 rows orange + cerise

Back piece:
Cast on 66-73-80-89-98-107 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side – all seam sts are knitted in garter sts) on needles size 5 with 2 threads orange. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Now knit stripe pattern (see above), at the same time knitting “window” pattern as follows (1st row = right side): 1 seam st, knit 4-4-4-5-6-7, *purl 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts, knit 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts*, repeat from *-* and finish with purl 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts and knit 4-4-4-5-6-7, 1 seam st. Continue pattern like this with knitted sts over knitted sts and purled sts over purled sts. When you change colours in stripes, knit over purled sts and purl over knitted sts and continue like this so that you create a “window” pattern.
Increases at side: At the same time when piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st each side on every 5-5-6-8-8-9 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 74-81-88-95-104-113 sts – knit or purl the increases sts according to the window they fit into, i.e. the outermost window each side becomes bigger.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 32-33-35-36-38-39 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-4-6 times and 1 st 3-3-4-2-2-2 times = 58-65-66-67-72-73 sts. Continue in pattern as before with 1 seam st each side. When piece measures 48-50-53-55-58-60 cm cast off the middle 16-19-20-21-22-23 sts for neck and dec 1 st on each neck side on next row = 20-22-22-22-24-24 sts left on each shoulder. After the last stripe piece measures approx 50-52-55-57-60-62 cm, cast off.

Left front piece:
Cast on 38-42-46-51-56-61 sts (incl 1 seam st each side) on needle size 5mm and 2 thread orange. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Now knit stripe pattern as described for front and back pieces and “window” pattern as described for back piece. Start as follows from the side (1st row = right side): 1 seam st, knit 4-4-4-5-6-7 sts, *purl 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts, knit 8-9-10-11-12-13 sts*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 seam st towards mid front. Continue pattern as described for back piece to create a “window” pattern.
Increases at side: At the same time when piece measures 10 cm inc as described for back piece.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 32-33-35-36-38-39 cm cast off for armhole as described for back piece. Continue the pattern with 1 seam st each side.
Neck: At the same time when piece measures 39-41-43-44-46-48 cm (i.e. in the middle of the third but last stripe) cast off 6-8-9-10-11-12 sts towards mid front for neck and dec to shape the neck line on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 4 times = 20-22-22-22-24-24 sts left on shoulder. After the last stripe piece measures approx 50-52-55-57-60-62 cm, cast off.

Right front piece:
Cast on and knit as left front piece, but mirrored. Additionally, make a pocket as follows: When 1 row left in the 4th stripe (1 thread red + 1 thread cerise), knit next row as follows from the wrong side, i,e, from the side: 1 seam st, knit 6-6-6-7-8-9 sts (as you have now inc 2 sts at side), purl 2-3-4-5-6-7, cast off the next 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts for pocket opening, purl 2-3-4-5-6-7 sts, knit 8-9-10-11-12-13 and 1 seam st. Put piece aside and knit the pocket lining.

Pocket lining:
Cast on 20-21-22-23-24-25 sts using needle size 5mm and 1 thread red and 1 thread cerise. Knit 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm stocking sts and put sts on needle on front piece where you cast off for pocket opening.
Continue as before over all sts (remember to change colour after the pocket).

Sleeve:
Cast on 54-59-59-63-68-68 sts (inclusive of 1 seam st each side) on needles size 5mm with 2 threads orange. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Knit stripe pattern as described for sleeves (see above), at the same time knitting Rib as follows (1st row = right side):
Size XS: 1 seam st, purl 4, *knit 8, purl 10*, repeat from *-* and finish with knit 8, purl 4 and 1 seam st.
Size S + M: 1 seam st, purl 4, *knit 9, purl 11*, repeat from *-* and finish with knit 9, purl 4 and 1 seam st.
Size L: 1 seam st, purl 4, knit 8, purl 13, knit 11, purl 13, knit 8, purl 4 and 1 seam st
Size XL + XXL: 1 seam st, purl 5, knit 8, purl 14, knit 12, purl 14, knit 8, purl 5 and 1 seam st
After 2 rows dec 1 st in all purl-sections(seen from the right side). Repeat the dec after 3 rows = 46-51-51-55-60-60 sts. Continue the Rib until after the 3rd stripe and now knit “window” pattern as described for back and front pieces. At the same time when sleeve measures 18-18-19-19-19-20 cm inc 1 st each side on every 7-9-5-4-5-3 cm a total of 5-4-6-7-6-8 times = 56-59-63-69-72-76 sts – incorporate new sts into the window at sides. When sleeve measures 49-48-47-47-46-45 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3-4-4-4 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-3-4 times, then 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 56-56-56-57-57-57 cm. Now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row, sleeve measures approx 57-57-57-58-58-58 cm.

Assembly:
Sew shoulders seams.

Front border:
Pick up 67-76-76-85-85-85 sts (multiple of 9 + 4) along left front piece with needle size 4.5 mm and 1 thread red + a thread cerise. Note! If you pick up less/more sts you need to adjust number of sts to the above on first row). Knit 1 row from wrong side and knit 1 row from right side.
Now continue in Rib as follows (1st row = wrong side): knit 4, *purl 5, knit 4*, repeat from *-* and finish with purl 5 and knit 4. Knit Rib with knit over knit and purl over purl, but with the 4 outermost sts each side in garter sts on all rows. When Rib measures 3.5 cm cast off loosely. Repeat along right front piece, but after 1.5 cm make 4 to 5 button holes evenly distributed on row as follows: cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row. NB! Place top buttonhole approx 1 cm from neckline and bottom buttonhole approx 2 cm from edge.

Neck:
Pick up approx 70-90 sts round the neck on circular needle 4.5mm with 1 thread red and 1 thread cerise. Knit 4 rows garter sts (1st row = wrong side) and cast off from the wrong side.
Crochet border: Using crochet hook size 6 and 4 threads red crochet a border round the neckline as follows: 1 dc in first st, *1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-*. Crochet a similar border at the top of pocket opening.

Buttons:
Crochet 5 or 6 (i.e. one extra for pocket) using crochet hook size 6mm and 1 thread red + 1 thread cerise as follows: 2 ch, 6 dc in the first of the 2 ch just crochet, finish with 1 sl st in first dc (= 1st round)
2nd round: 1 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc in first dc, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc, skip 1 dc, 2 dc in next dc, skip the last dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round
3rd round: 1 ch, 2 dc in each dc and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round (= 12 dc)
4th round: 1 ch, 1 dc in every other dc and finish with 1 sl st in dc from beginning of round (= 6 dc).
Put cotton wool in button covers, sew round the opening and pull tight.

Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams within 1 seam st. Sew pocket lining to wrong side of front piece. Sew on buttons (one on pocket for decoration).

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Betina Johansen wrote:

Kan I hjælpe mig med at sætte andre farver sammen end de rødlige? Gerne blå nuancer

25.06.2018 - 13:00

DROPS Design wrote:

Hola Cristina, tu duda con respecto a los nombres de las lanas es comprensible. Pero no te preocupes, lo que realmente es importante es que escribas el número del código tal cual aparece en nuestro muestrario. Saludos afectuosos!!

01.03.2010 - 17:51

country flag Cristina wrote:

Tengo un problema con este patrón: el color 2923 yellow en realidad se llama goldenrod y es ocre. El color cerise (cereza) 2921 en realidad es fucsia y se llama pink. Temo que si hago un encargo de lana los colores que envíen resulten distintos al modelo. ¿Hay algún problema con la gama de colores?

01.03.2010 - 13:12

country flag wrote:

desværre her mangler det 50 gr i alle str.

20.04.2006 - 12:43

country flag karen hansen wrote:

Er ved at strikke denne dejlige trøje men 50 g rødt er ikke nok?

17.04.2006 - 19:03

country flag Karina aus Deutschland wrote:

Die Jacke ist einfach wunderbar. Dieses Modell würde ich stricken, wenn es eine deutsche Anleitung gibt. Danke für die tollen Ideen auf Ihrer Seite

11.02.2006 - 19:23

Elin wrote:

Jättefin! =)

07.02.2006 - 14:31

country flag Line Vågan wrote:

Hei Finnes det et merserisert bomullsgarn med tilsvarende farger(som Alpaca) denne jakken kan strikkes i. Hvilken dato kommer oppskriften på nett? Mvh Line

25.01.2006 - 13:47

Anna wrote:

underbara färger

18.01.2006 - 20:42

Malou wrote:

Härlig med många färger.

17.01.2006 - 15:43