DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 89-6
DROPS design: Pattern no W-011-bn

Size: 5/7 - 8/10 - 12/14 years
In cm: 110/122 - 128/140 - 152/164
Length mid front: approx. 44 - 52 - 62 cm
Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
100-150-150 g colour no 27, peach
100-100-150 g colour no 26, dark beige
100-100-100 g colour no 01, apricot
50-100-100 g colour no 06, shocking pink
50-50-100 g colour no 33, medium pink
50-50-50 g colour no 20, light pink

DROPS Crochet hook size 5 mm.

Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide
4 tr-groups in width and 7 rows vertically on hook size 5 mm = approx. 10 x 10 cm.

NOTE: Because of different crochet techniques the crochet tension can vary from person to person, therefore use a higher or lower hook size to get this tension.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Stripe pattern: See diagram M.1 - 1 row in diagram = 1 round.

Crochet info (applies to tip mid front and mid back): Inc tr-group = 3 tr, 1 ch, 3 tr in same ch-space.

Crochet tip: At every colour change fasten yarn ends while working next round, to avoid many yarn ends when finished.

Poncho: The piece is worked in the round from neck down. Read CROCHET TIP!
Crochet 88-98-108 ch on hook size 5 mm with shocking pink (ch-row should measure approx. 54-57-61 cm) and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
Round 1: Work 1 dc in every ch on round and finish with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round = 88-98-108 dc.
Then work as explained below while at the same time working stripes according to M.1 - beg at the bottom of diagram.
Round 2: Beg in one side (= shoulder) as follows: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4 times in total (= 4-4-5 tr-groups), in next dc work 3 tr, 1 ch (= tip mid front), in next dc work 3 tr, 1 ch, skip 2 dc, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 8-9-10 times in total, in next dc work 3 tr, 1 ch (= tip mid back), in next dc work 3 tr, 1 ch, skip 2 dc, * 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, 1 ch, skip 2 dc *, repeat from *-* 4-5-5 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 8-9-10 tr-groups between each tip. Finish with 1 sl st in each of the first 2 tr and 1 sl st in first ch-space.
Round 3: Read crochet info! 3 ch, 2 tr in same ch-space, 1 ch, * 3 tr in next ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4 times in total, work one inc tr-group in ch-space in the tip mid front, 1 ch, * 3 tr in next ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 9-10-11 times in total, work one inc tr-group in ch-space in the tip mid back, 1 ch, * 3 tr in next ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 5-6-6 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 9-10-11 tr-groups between every tip.
From round 4 until finished measurements: Continue to work as explained above while at the same time working 1 inc tr-group in each tip on every round (i.e. there is 1 tr-group more between each tip for every round).
When piece measures approx. 32-37-44 cm from neck and down along shoulder (= approx. 22-26-31 rounds) - or to desired length - fasten off. Piece measures approx. 44-52-62 cm from neck and down mid front.
________________________________________


Flower:

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
Some left-over yarn colour no 02, medium pink

DROPS Crochet hook size 3 mm.

Work 4 ch on hook size 3 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
Round 1: 6 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Round 2: 1 dc in first dc, * 3 ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round = 6 ch-spaces.
Round 3: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
Round 4: Turn piece, * work 1 dc in dc from 2nd round (work on the back of the flower leaves around sts from previous round, tighten yarn), 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.
Round 5: 1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 1 dc, 1 ch, 5 tr, 1 ch and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first ch at beg of round.
Round 6: Turn piece, * work 1 dc in dc from 2nd round (work on the back of the 2 flower leaves around sts from previous round, tighten yarn), 7 ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total and finish with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.
Round 7: 1 ch, continue to work as follows in every ch-space: 1 dc, 1 ch, 1 tr, 5 dtr, 1 tr, 1 ch and 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.

Fasten off - sew some sequins on the flower. Fasten the flower mid front in neck on poncho (or use a safety pin).

Diagram

symbols = no 06, shocking pink
symbols = no 1, apricot
symbols = no 27, peach
symbols = no 26, beige
symbols = no 20, light pink
symbols = no 33, pink
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (62)

country flag Carmen Jones wrote:

The pattern for little girls poncho I not sure when it says 4-4-5 what does it mean

06.03.2024 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Carmen, The series of numbers corresponds to the 3 different sizes, so if you are working size 5/7 years you always work according to the first number in each series. Happy crafting!

07.03.2024 - 07:07

country flag Marité wrote:

Bonjour, est-ce possible d'avoir le diagramme du poncho ? Merci

28.12.2021 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marité, il n'est pas disponible. Comment crocheter des rayures façon "granny" vous trouverez ICI. Bon crochet!

29.12.2021 - 15:31

country flag Anna wrote:

Non mi è chiaro se l'altezza del lavoro va presa dalla punta in basso alla spalla o dalla punta in alto a quella in basso. Per il cambio colore con uncinetto il vostro video mostra di girare il lavoro ma le istruzioni di questo lavoro non dicono di girarlo. Avete altro video che spiega?

26.09.2021 - 18:17

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna. la prima misura è quella dal collo alla fine delle spalla .Buon lavoro!

26.09.2021 - 21:11

country flag Trudi Thompson wrote:

I can\'t manage to get it to download the centimeter to inch version

10.04.2020 - 20:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Thompson, our patterns can only be printed, launch printing clicking on the icon "print" and use a virtual printer to save them as a .pdf file. Happy crocheting!

14.04.2020 - 10:49

country flag Drea wrote:

Ik wil heel graag deze poncho voor mezelf haken. Ben al 2x mee begonnen met 118 losse in het begin. Ik heb het na een een paar toer verder aangepast maar ligt niet mooi in de nek... Het steekt een soort van op. Hoe kan ik het beste beginnen/ waar moet ik het patroo aanpassen? Ik ben klein van stuk 1.55. Graag uw hulp!

09.03.2020 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Drea,

Helaas is het voor ons niet mogelijk om patronen naar persoonlijke wensen aan te passen, maar je zou kunnen proberen om naderhand een extra afwerkrand in de hals te breien waarbij je steken verdeeld mindert, zodat je halslijn platter komt te liggen.

10.03.2020 - 20:02

country flag Anne Lykholt wrote:

Hej, Jeg forstår ikke omg 6 på blomsten. Der står ‘vend arbejdet og hækl 1 fm i fm fra 2. omg’ men 2. omg er jo ‘langt’ væk, og jeg kan ikke få fat i tråden, så langt nede. Jeg har tjekket jeres videoer, men ikke fundet en på blomsten, kan I ikke lave en video?

14.02.2020 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne, Vi skal skrive blomsten på ønskelisten. Men så længe kan du vælge en af de søde blomster vi har video på: hæklede blomster

18.02.2020 - 09:21

country flag Lynn wrote:

Hi. Thank you very much for this pattern. I have just finished making 1 for my daughter, age 12-14, but now when she puts it on the neck area is very big. It sits very wide on her shoulders. What can i do to close it? Thank you.

24.11.2019 - 00:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kynn, you can always put a tie in the upper row, and have her to tie it. You can also crochet an edge , being careful to evenly decrease some stitches, untl it fits her shoulders. I hope you can solve the issue.

24.11.2019 - 13:27

country flag Itria Manca wrote:

Salve e possibile averle misure in centimetri del poncho per Eta 8.10 anni?

14.10.2019 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Itria. Per la taglia 8/10 anni, il poncho misura 52 cm dal collo alla punta in basso sul davanti. Buon lavoro!

14.10.2019 - 14:40

country flag B Rogers wrote:

After I started the pattern and finished 4 rows the poncho didn't get bigger even after adding 2 stitches per row. I went to a different pattern after that. Why didn't it get bigger after the neckline.

09.09.2019 - 02:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Rogers, you should work on each tip (-mid front + mid back): 3dc,1ch,3dc in each of the middle ch-space, this way, you should get a tip on mid front and mid back, as on the photo. Happy crocheting!

09.09.2019 - 11:54

country flag Lorna wrote:

Hi. Where abouts on the poncho do you do your colour changes? Thanks

28.08.2019 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorna, the stripes are worked following diagram M.1 (see at the bottom of the written pattern). Happy crocheting!

28.08.2019 - 12:28