DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 86-4
Measurements: One-size

Materials: DROPS ALPACA
100 gr nr 0501, light grey

DROPS 3 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge:
24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See the chart. 1 chart = 1 repeat. The pattern is seen from the right side.


Rib: *K 2, P 2 . Repeat *-*

Gloves: Cast on 83 sts evenly distributed on double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Establish pattern as follows: 18 sts rib – start row with P 2 and put a marker between these sts, then knit Pattern (= center of glove), 52 sts rib (start with a P 2). When the piece measures 24 cm K 1 row over all the rib sts (continue Pattern over the pattern sts), decreasing 24 sts evenly distributed over the rib sts = 59 sts.
Now knit rib and Pattern again (begin with P 2) and
measure the work from here.
When the piece measures 2 cm inc for thumb gusset as follows: inc 1 st at each side of the marker, these 2 sts = thumb gusset. Continue to inc 1 st at each side of these 2 sts every other row a total of 6 times = 14 sts in the gusset (knit the increased sts in rib as you go along).
On the next row put these 14 sts + 1 st each side (16 sts) on st holder and cast on 2 new sts behind gusset and join = 57 sts. Place a marker before the 2 new sts for beginning of row.
Continue in rib and Pattern as established. When the piece measures 11 cm inc 1 st over Pattern = 58 sts, then knit rib over all sts.

Knit the next row as follows: 2 sts above gusset, 21 sts, put 11 sts on a st holder for little finger, cast on 1 new st and knit the remaining 24 sts. Join and knit 4 rows over these 48 sts. Put the new st and 16 sts at each side of it on a st holder.
Index finger: knit 15 sts and cast on 1 new st = 16 sts. Join and knit 4 cm rib, bind off.
Middle finger: knit 8 sts from palm, cast on 1 new st, knit 8 sts from upper hand and pick up 3 sts at index finger = 20 sts. Join and knit 4 cm rib, bind off.
Ring finger: knit the last 17 sts from st holder and pick up 3 sts at middle finger = 20 sts. Join and knit 4 cm rib, bind off.
Little finger: knit the 11 sts from st holder and inc 3 sts at ring finger side = 14 sts. Join and knit 4 cm rib, bind off.
Thumb: knit 16 sts from st holder with gusset, pick up 4 sts in sts behind gusset = 20 sts. Join and knit 5 rows rib, bind off.

Knit the other glove om the same way, reversing shaping as follows: Inc for the thumb gusset at the end of the row. Divide for little finger as follows: knit 24 sts, put 11 sts on st holder, cast on 1 st and continue with the 21 sts + 2 sts above gusset.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.09.2016
GLOVES:
....On the next row put these 14 sts + 1 st each side (16 sts) on st holder and cast on 2 new sts behind gusset and join = 57 sts. Place a marker before the 2 new sts for beginning of row.
Continue in rib and Pattern as established. When the piece measures 11 cm inc 1 st over Pattern = 58 sts, then knit rib over all sts.

Knit the next row as follows: 2 sts above gusset, 21 sts, put 11 sts on a st holder for little finger, cast on 1 new st and knit the remaining 24 sts. Join and knit 4 rows over these 48 sts...

Little finger: knit the 11 sts from st holder and inc 3 sts at ring finger side = 14 sts. Join and knit 4 cm rib, bind off.

...Knit the other glove om the same way, reversing shaping as follows: Inc for the thumb gusset at the end of the row. Divide for little finger as follows: knit 24 sts, put 11 sts on st holder, cast on 1 st and continue with the 21 sts + 2 sts above gusset.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Karin wrote:

Der linke Hanschuh hat super geklappt. Nun habe ich ein Problem mit dem rechten Handschuh. Was bedeutet spiegelverkehrt? Bin jetzt nicht mit 2 linken Maschen sondern mit 2 rechten Maschen angefangen. Nun passt es am Daumen nicht mit dem Mustersatz. Ich habe die Abnahme von 24 Maschen gemacht und dann nach Anleitung neben dem M1 zwei linke Maschen gestrickt. Soweit geht das Muster auch auf. Nach dem Keil vom Daumen passt es dann nicht mehr.

29.10.2023 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Karin, beginnen Sie zuerst mit den 52 M Bündchen dann das Diagram dann die letzen Maschen Bündchen. Dann wird es für den Daumen am Ende der Runde zugenommen (anstatt am Anfang). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.10.2023 - 17:48

country flag Angélique Amouret wrote:

Bonjour peut-on adapter ce modèle sur des aiguilles circulaire

13.02.2023 - 15:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Amouret, probablement, mais si vous n'en avez pas l'habitude, il peut être plus sage de tricoter ces mitaines en rond, ce sera plus simple et vous éviterez des coutures disgracieuses et une potentielle surépaisseur. Bon tricot!

13.02.2023 - 15:55

country flag Ninni wrote:

När man har lagt upp 2 maskor bakom tumkilen blir det 4 aviga bredvid varandra i resåren är det meningen?

10.02.2023 - 11:08

country flag Kathleen wrote:

Ik begrijp de stekentelling niet. Je eindigt met 59 steken nadat je geminderd hebt. Dan maak je er 14 extra door te meerderen. Dus 73 steken in totaal. Daarvan zet je er 16 op een hulpdraad voor de duim. Dus blijven er nog 57 steken over op de naald . Als je daar dus nog twee moet bij opzetten, zijn er opnieuw 59 steken op de naald en na 11 cm 60 steken… of moeten die twee nieuw opgezette steken ook naar de hulpdraad? Als dat het geval is, klopt er iets niet met het aantal duimsteken.

21.07.2022 - 15:42

country flag Mariska Van Der Werf wrote:

Er staat: wijsvinger: brei 15 st. Welke steken zijn dit? Je hebt net 17 steken op een hulpdraad gezet en die zijn voor de ringvinger. Dus niet de volgende 15, want ringvinger en wijsvinger zitten niet naast elkaar. Volgens mij ook niet de eerste 15 vanaf "begin van de naald", dan zit ik weer tegen de ringvinger..... 2e vraag. Er staat bij ringvinger brei laatste 17 steken van hulpdraad 2 . Ik heb maar 17 steken op die hulpdraad en zie ook niet eerder dat je stkn van de draad moet breien.

15.10.2021 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mariska,

Naast de steken van de pink, die inmiddels op een hulpdraad staan heb je 1 steek opgezet. Deze nieuwe steek plus 16 steken ernaast zet je op een hulpdraad. Een je zet 16 steken aan de andere kant van de pink op een hulpdraad. (Van deze steken worden straks de ringvinger en de middelvinger gebreid.) Aan de zijde van de duim heb je nu een aantal steken waarmee je verder breit.

16.10.2021 - 13:18

country flag Anette Thorup Pedersen wrote:

Hvad mener I med “2 masker over kilen, 21 m”?

05.09.2020 - 15:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, det er de 2 masker du slog op som strikkes først, så de næste 21 m, og så de næste på en tråd ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!

09.09.2020 - 14:14

country flag Nadia wrote:

Hello, I would like to ask you politely if you could translate this pattern into Italian, as I am totally unable to knit steps that are not in my language 😢 I would be eternally grateful 😊

20.05.2020 - 10:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Nadia. We will translate the pattern into Italian as soon as possibile. Happy knitting!

20.05.2020 - 10:43

country flag Babette wrote:

Bonjour, Comment puis-je tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites ? Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement. Babette

27.10.2019 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Babette, il vous faudra adapter les explications en suivant ces informations. Bon tricot!

04.11.2019 - 12:33

country flag Adam wrote:

Kiedy bedzie wzor po polsku?

12.09.2019 - 20:13

DROPS Design answered:

Witam! Będzie dostępny w przyszłym tygodniu. Dziękujemy za zainteresowanie naszą stroną. Pozdrowienia od DROPS Design!

13.09.2019 - 08:35

country flag Cindy wrote:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée au 11 cm et je ne comprends pas du tout la suite. Pourriez-vous m'aider svp.

28.10.2018 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cindy, à 11 cm, vous augmentez 1 m au-dessus des mailles de M.1 = 58 mailles. Au tour suivant, mettez les mailles de l'auriculaire en attente, montez 1 m au-dessus des m en attente et terminez le tour. Tricotez maintenant 4 tours sur les 48 m et tricote ensuite chaque doigt séparément - en terminant par l'auriculaire (= les m en attente). Bon tricot!

29.10.2018 - 08:20