DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 82-6
DROPS design: Pattern no R-426+R-427
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Top:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 18, white

DROPS Crochet hook size 4.5 mm.

Measurements on chart might look small but the garment will be very elastic and will expand approx. 5-8 cm according to chart when worn.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide.
4.5 ch-spaces in width and 10 rows vertically on hook size 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Front piece: Work 91-103-115-127-139 ch (incl 6 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm with off Muskat.
Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 7th ch from hook, * 5 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* = 15-17-19-21-23 ch-spaces, turn piece. Continue to work as follows: 6 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with), 1 dc around first ch-space, * 5 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and turn piece. Continue like this. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures 15 cm, inc 1 space in each side by working 1 extra ch-space in next to last space in each side = 17-19-21-23-25 ch-spaces.
Armholes: When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm, cast off for armholes as follows:
Size S + M: Work as before until 1 ch-space remains, turn piece, work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, continue with ch-spaces and repeat dec in the other side - or see diagram 1B.

Size L + XL: Follow dec for Size S + M: 1 time, turn piece and work back until 1 ch-space remain, turn piece and continue with ch-spaces and repeat dec in the other side - or see diagram 1C.

Size XXL: Follow dec for Size S + M: 2 times - or see diagram 1D.

2-2-3-3-4 ch-spaces have been dec in each side = 13-15-15-17-17 ch-spaces on row. Continue working as before. When piece measures 36-38-40-42-44 cm, dec for neck as follows: Work 4 ch-space, turn piece, work sl sts until middle of first ch-space and continue with ch-spaces = 3 ch-spaces remain on shoulder. Work as before until piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm. Repeat in the other side of neck.

Back piece: Cast on and work as front piece. Dec for armholes as on front piece and continue until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm. Now dec for neck by working 2 rows over only 3 ch-space on each shoulder (i.e. do not work over the middle 7-9-9-11-11 ch-spaces). Piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58 cm, cut the yarn.

Assembly: Work piece tog on the shoulder as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-space on back piece, 3 ch, 1 dc around first ch-space on front piece, 3 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space on back piece etc.
Work the sides tog the same way.

Neck edge and armhole: Work 1 round htr around the neck and both armholes as follows: * 1 htr in dc, 2 htr around ch-space *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first htr on round.
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Jacket:

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL
Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 18, white

DROPS Crochet hook size 4.5 mm.
DROPS Angular silver buttons no 534: 5 pieces


Crochet tension: Remember hook size is only a guide.
4.5 ch-spaces in width and 10 rows vertically on hook size 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

Back piece: Work 103-115-127-139-151 ch (incl 6 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm with off Muskat. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 7th ch from hook, * 5 ch, skip 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* = 17-19-21-23-25 ch-spaces, turn piece. Continue to work as follows: 6 ch (incl 1 ch to turn with), 1 dc around first ch-space, * 5 ch, 1 dc around next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and turn piece. Continue like this. Remember the crochet tension! When piece measures 15 cm, inc 1 space in each side by working 1 extra ch-space in next to last space in each side = 19-21-23-25-27 ch-spaces.

Armholes: When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34 cm, dec for armholes as follows:
SIZE S: Work as before until 1 ch-space remain, turn piece and continue with ch-spaces and repeat dec in the other side - or see diagram 1A.

SIZE M + L: Work as before until 1 ch-space remains, turn piece, work sl sts until middle of first ch-space, continue with ch-space and repeat dec in the other side - or see diagram 1.B.

SIZE XL: Follow dec for Size M + L: 1 time and then dec for size S: 1 time - or see diagram 1C.

Size XXL: Follow dec for Size M + L: 2 times - or see diagram 1D.

1-2-2-3-4 ch-spaces have been dec in each side = 17-17-19-19-19 ch-spaces on row. Continue working as before. When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54 cm, dec for neck by working 2 rows over only 4-4-5-5-5 ch-spaces on each shoulder (i.e. do not work over the middle 9 ch-spaces). Piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56 cm, cut the yarn.

Right front piece: Work 55-61-67-73-79 ch (incl 6 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm with off Muskat. Then work as on back piece = 9-10-11-12-13 ch-spaces. When piece measures 15 cm, inc 1 ch-space in the side as on back piece = 10-11-12-13-14 ch-spaces. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34 cm, dec for armhole in one side as on back piece = 9-9-10-10-10 ch-spaces. When piece measures 34-36-38-40-42 cm, dec for neck as follows: Follow armhole dec for diagram 1D: 1 time and diagram 1A: 1 time, 5 spaces have been dec and 4-4-5-5-5 spaces remain on shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm, fasten off.

Left front piece: Work as right but reversed.

Sleeve: Work 67-73-73-79-85 ch (incl 6 ch to turn with) on hook size 4.5 mm with off Muskat. Then work as on body = 11-12-12-13-14 ch-spaces. When piece measures 6 cm, inc by working 1 extra ch-space in next to last space in one side, work 5 rows and inc the same way in the other side. Repeat inc in each side 1 more time with 5 rows between each inc = 15-16-16-17-18 ch-spaces on row. Continue to work until piece measures 34-33-31-31-30 cm. Now dec for sleeve cap by working 6-8-10-10-12 row with 1 ch-space less at the end of every row, fasten off. Piece measures approx. 40-41-41-41-42 cm.

Assembly: Crochet the jacket tog on the shoulder as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-space on back piece, 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch-space on front piece, 3 ch, 1 dc around first ch-space on back piece etc.
Work the sleeves and side seams tog the same way. Then work the sleeves in the same way.

Neck: Work 2 rows with dc around the neck - work approx. 3 dc in every ch-space - adjust to avoid a loose or tight edge.

Left band: Work 4 rows with dc up along left front piece (also over neck edge) - there should be approx. 3 dc in every ch-space = approx. 102 to 126 dc, turn every row with 1 ch.

Right band: Work as left but after 2nd row work 5 buttonholes evenly on band. Bottom buttonhole should be approx. 10 cm from bottom edge, and top hole 2 sts from the top. 1 buttonhole = 2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next st. On next row work 2 dc around ch.

Sew on buttons.

Diagram

symbols = ch 1
symbols = 1 dc in ch-loop
symbols = 1 sl st
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (89)

country flag Marlies Van Dijk wrote:

Er staat het volgende beschreven: De afmetingen op de schematekening kunnen klein lijken, maar de kleding wordt erg elastisch en zal zich ca 5-8 cm rekken in vergelijking met de schematekening. Betekent dit dat de kleding dus 5-8 cm wijder wordt dan op de schema tekening staat?

17.03.2024 - 14:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marlies,

Ja, dat klopt inderdaad. Je kan de afmetingen zoals beschreven in het patroon en bij de maattekening aanhouden. Bij het dragen rekt het ietwat uit en komen de maten overeen met standaard confectiematen.

17.03.2024 - 18:59

country flag Susan Mortensen wrote:

Hejsa. Er det muligt at få at vide hvad opskriften er deleligt med? Prøvede nemlig at hækle den største størrelse, men den var for lille.

09.11.2023 - 21:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susan, Hvis du har hæklefastheden som står i opskriften så får du målene som du finder i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)

10.11.2023 - 14:39

country flag Kemba wrote:

Is there a video on this top?

22.07.2023 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kemba, we don't have a specific video for working this top. You can find all relevant videos for this top in the videos section after the pattern instructions. If you need help with a specific part of the pattern you can always ask here. Happy crocheting!

23.07.2023 - 19:38

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Jeg forstår simpelthen ikke hvordan diagrammet skal læses. Skal det opfattes om at D1 viser hvordan det skal se ud i både høje og venstre side? Kan i forklare højre forstykke? Skal jeg lave halsrunding i samme side som ærmegabet?

03.07.2023 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, Halsindtagningen er beskrevet i opskriften på samme måde som ærmegabet og D1 viser hvordan det ser ud i venstre side når du har cardiganen på :)

04.07.2023 - 08:26

country flag Elizabeth wrote:

After crocheting several rows they appear less open than the picture , does the weight of the finished garment help to pull it down and open up the pattern ?

20.06.2023 - 13:58

Elizabeth answered:

Sorry folks I’ve answered my previous question by putting sc of next row into the centre chain of the loop and that opens it up perfectly!!

20.06.2023 - 14:25

country flag Steph Miller wrote:

I can't switch from cm to in when I go to the spot to change it. I want it in inches . Any suggestions ?

30.03.2023 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Steph, for the measurements in inches, you can take the measurements in cm and input it into the following conversor: https://www.garnstudio.com/conversions.php. If you press convert to inches, the measurement in inches should pop up at the right of the rectangle with the measurement in cm. Happy knitting!

02.04.2023 - 16:54

country flag Monica wrote:

Non tornano le diminuzioni per il top: prima si aumenta di due archi, poi diminuendo di due si dovrebbe avere un totale più alto, invece dice che ci sono 15archi. Qualcosa non va

24.02.2023 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monica, dai 19 archi di catenelle si diminuiscono 2 archi per lato arrivando ad un totale di 15 archi di catenelle. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2023 - 19:15

country flag Monica wrote:

Avete un tutorial per seguire le diminuzioni con un lavoro a catenella come questo? Non riesco a capire come eseguire le diminuzioni e a terminare il lavoro. Grazie

24.02.2023 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Monica, purtroppo non abbiamo tutorial specifici per questo modello. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2023 - 19:11

country flag GRG wrote:

I don’t understand this part. Can someone help me please? For armhole — Crochet to last ch-loop, turn the work, continue with ch-loops and repeat bind off at the other side (I have seen diagram 1a. I can read the diagram but I’m not sure how to begin this step).

01.01.2023 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear GRG, I'm not sure where you are exactly in the pattern, can you please let us more? top, jacket, size? Thanks for your comprehension.

02.01.2023 - 15:45

country flag Hmasters wrote:

Thank you for your pattern! I made the cardigan using Hobby Lobby\'s \'Must be Merino\' in aqua. Crocheted with a size 4mm needle and pattern worked out perfectly. Had a few hiccups but after reworking some pieces I\'m very pleased with the outcome!

04.07.2022 - 03:21