DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 73-7
Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL

Finished measurements: 92-104-118 cm

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT
100% mercerized Egyptian cotton, 50 g./100 m./109 yards
500-550-600 gr nr 01, light blue violet.

6 DROPS Pearl buttons nr 521

DROPS 4 mm and 4.5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 20 sts x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm on larger needles in pattern.
1 repeat of Pattern 1 = 7 cm wide.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern: See charts . The pattern is seen from the right side. Note: Patterns 2 and 3 (armhole shaping) are different for each size - use the chart for your size.


Rib: * K 2, P 4 *, repeat from * - *.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes along right button band. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 2 sts at center of buttonband (P sts) and cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts on the next row.
Make buttonholes when buttonband measures:
Size S/M: 2, 9, 15, 22, 28 and 34 cm.
Size M/L: 2, 9, 15, 22, 29 and 35 cm.
Size XL: 2, 9, 16, 22, 29 and 36 cm.

Body: Cast on 202-226-250 sts on smaller circular needles. Knit rib as follows (right side row): K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st), K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2 (these 10 sts are the buttonband), * K 2, P 4 *, repeat from * - * to last 12 sts, K 2, P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 and K 2 (edge sts knit in garter st). Knit rib for 8-9-10 cm - make buttonhole on right buttonband - see instructions above. Then put the 10 button band sts at each side on st holders, these will be knit separately. Change to larger circular needles, cast on 1 new st at each side at the center front (for sewing buttonbands) and inc 0-2-4 sts evenly distributed on the row = 184-210-236 sts.
Knit Pattern 1, keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout. When the piece measures approx. 31-32-33 cm - adjust to end after a complete repeat of Pattern 1 - knit the next row as follows (right side row): K 1 (edge st), 26 sts of Pattern 1, Pattern 2 (17-23-29 sts), bind off 5-6-7 sts for armhole, Pattern 3A (17-23-29 sts), 52 sts of Pattern 1, Pattern 2 (17-23-29 sts), bind off 5-6-7 sts for armhole, Pattern 3A (17-23-29 sts), 26 sts of Pattern 1, K 1 (edge st). Knit each piece separately.

Left front: = 44-50-56 sts. Read the entire next section before knitting: Now bind off for armhole at the side following Pattern 3A, knit the remaining sts as before. After armhole bind off knit Pattern 3B to finished measurements.
At the same time when 1 repeat of Pattern 1 has been knit after the start of armhole shaping (the piece measures approx. 35-38 cm), shape the neck following Pattern 5A (dec inside 1 edge st not shown on chart). After neck shaping follow Pattern 5B to finished measurements.
After all armhole and neck shaping is complete 23-25-27 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures approx. 51-54-57 cm.

Right front: = 44-50-56 sts. Bind off for armhole and neck as on left front but follow Pattern 2A/B and Pattern 4A/B. Bind off when the piece measures approx. 51-55-57 cm.

Back: = 86-98-110 sts. Bind off for armhole at each side following Pattern 2A and Pattern 3A = 76-80-84 sts remain on needles. Continue with Pattern 1 over the center 52 sts and Pattern 2B and Pattern 3B over 12-14-16 sts at each side. When the piece measures 49-52-55 cm bind off the center 30 sts for the neck = 23-25-27 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off the remaining sts when the piece measures 51-54-57 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 54-54-60 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 15 cm. Knit the next row as follows: * K 1, yo, slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso, K 1, K 2 tog, yo *, repeat from * - *. Change to larger double-pointed needles and knit stockinette st to finished measurements.
At the same time when the piece measures 17 cm inc 1 st each side of marker every 9-6-5 rows a total of 10-13-14 times = 74-80-88 sts. When the piece measures 49-47-45 cm bind off 3 sts each side of marker and knit the rest back and forth on needles. Then bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 2-5-7 times, then bind off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 57 cm and then bind off 3 sts 1 time. Bind off, sleeve measures approx. 58 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Left button band: Pick up sts on st holder and continue with rib on smaller needles until buttonband measures approx. 60-66 cm (measured to fit to center back, the buttonband should fit loosely when sewn. Bind off in pattern.
Right button band: knit the same as the left but make buttonholes along buttonband.
Sew button bands at center back. Sew buttonbands to the edge st on the cardigan. Sew in sleeves and buttons.

Diagram

symbols = stockinette st/knit (as seen from the right side)
symbols = yo
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = Slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Manya Groskamp wrote:

In het patroon moeten de terugaande steken allemaal averechts in plaats van rechts zoals de tekening aangeeft

18.03.2024 - 14:03

country flag Muriel Barlow wrote:

Chart 2a/2b for M/L states 23 sts but counting on the chart it has 22 (at dividing row). The other sizes show correct at 17 and 29. Is the chart incorrect or have I missed something?

06.10.2023 - 00:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Barlow, thanks for noticing, the diagram M.2A/M.3A has now been edited and fixed over 23 sts. Happy knitting!

06.10.2023 - 14:44

country flag Sharon Elliott wrote:

I need to clarify the binding off for the sleeve cap size SMALL. After I bind off the initial 3 sts each side of marker (68 sts remaining) and then every other row 2 sts 4 times (-16 sts for 52 sts remaining and next 1 st 2 times (48 stitches remaining), it says to bind off 2 sts each side until piece measures 57 cm and then bind off 3 sts 1 time. HOW MANY STITCHES SHOULD BE LEFT AT THIS POINT? Thank you, Sharon

05.12.2021 - 01:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, depending on your gauge, you may need to work more or less rows to get to 57 cm, that's why we don't mention the amount of stitches. Once you make all the bind offs and you have reached 57 cm, you bind off all the remaining stitches in the same row. Happy knitting!

05.12.2021 - 17:13

country flag Noyer wrote:

Bonjour, À quoi correspond le patron à la fin des explications ? les dimensions ne sont pas les mêmes que le patron juste au-dessus. Pourquoi y a-t-il 4 tailles alors qu'il y en avait 3 jusque là ? Cordialement

10.08.2021 - 09:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Noyer, le gilet est disponible en 3 tailles: S/M, M/L et XL - en revanche le top (que vous trouverez ici) est en 4 tailles: S-M-L-XL. Bon tricot!

10.08.2021 - 14:07

country flag Noyer wrote:

Bonjour, Pour le diagramme du point fantaisie, aux rangs envers, doit-on tricoter les mailles envers ou endroit ? Cordialement

10.08.2021 - 08:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Noyer, effectivement, dans ce modèle, tous les rangs envers des diagrammes se tricotent à l'envers (= jersey endroit: à l'endroit sur l'endroit/à l'envers sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

10.08.2021 - 14:05

country flag Stephanie Stewart wrote:

Please could you clarify what Pattern 1 is? The charts only show what to do once each piece has been separated.

08.05.2021 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stephanie, pattern one is the small chart in the middle of M.4 diagram. Happy Knitting!

08.05.2021 - 18:34

country flag Stephanie Stewart wrote:

I'm confused by the number of balls of yarn I need. Looking at the description it looks like I need 10 x 50g balls but further down it states that this cardigan can be made for £6.40 which would mean only 4 balls of yarn. I'm making the smallest size, please can you clarify?

06.05.2021 - 10:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stephanie, according to the pattern, you will need about 500 gramms, 10 balls of DROPS Muskat yarn. The price stated as "from" probably calculates with the lowest sale price of the yarn. Happy Knitting!

06.05.2021 - 10:57

country flag Lisbeth Friberh wrote:

Hvor finner jeg armfellingen ? Forstår det slik at det bare er 5 masker som skal felles under armen. Skal det felles mer .?. Symbol mangler forklaring ser ut som trekant, Vanskelig å forstå oppskriften

25.08.2020 - 00:24

country flag Leona wrote:

1. Increase row after rib. Is this a rib row or a knit row 2. Says to use Pattern 1. No such pattern, only M1 3. Page 2 has half the legend, only then on page 3 is the full diagram explanation. Extremely confusing 4. No video showing the actual pattern. All videos in stocking stitch. Why no sample knit of pattern?

01.04.2020 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leona, increase the 0-2-4 sts on a WS row so that first row in M.1 will be worked from RS - you will find how to read knitting diagrams here. Happy knitting!

01.04.2020 - 15:45

country flag Leona wrote:

How do I know what each of these refer to? The diagram is there but I do not know which character refers to which instruction..... I see this is the same on all Drops patterns. Is the assumption taht everyone has used your patterns before? = stockinette = yo =K2tog

28.03.2020 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leona, see symbol before diagram text like first one = white square = 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 2nd one: round in a square = yarn over and so on. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

30.03.2020 - 09:29