DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 64-11
Sizes: Extra Small - Small/Medium - Large
Finished measurements: 90-106-120 cm


Materials: DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
53% Egyptian cotton, 47% linen, 50 g./85 m
800-900-1000 g col. no. 01, white.

DROPS 3.5 mm and 4.5 mm circular and double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 20 sts x 26 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm.

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is seen from the right side. An arrow indicates the center st («midt m») of the pattern.
Note! In chart M.1 6 sts in right side should be displaced first when the 6 sts gets displaced in the left side.

Body: Cast on 180-210-240 sts on smaller circular needles. Join and knit 2 rows garter st; increasing 108-126-144 sts evenly distributed on the last row as follows: * K 1, inc 1 st in the two following sts, K 1, inc 1 st in the next st *, repeat from * - * = 288-336-384 sts. Change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern 1 over all sts. Attach a marker at the center front and center back - see the arrow on the chart. When the work measures 39-41-44 cm, bind off 8 sts at each side (4 sts each side of side markers) for armholes. Front and back each = 136-160-184 sts. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 136-160-184 sts. Bind off at each side for armholes every other row: 4 sts 0-1-1 time, 3 sts 0-2-4 times, 2 sts 1-2-4 times, 1 st 3-3-5 times = 126-126-126 sts. Keep 1 st at each side in garter st throughout and continue in pattern.
When the work measures 50-53-56 cm, dec 16-16-16 sts evenly distributed over the center 38-38-38 sts. On the next row, bind off the 24-24-24 center sts for the neck. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 4 times, 1 st 3 times = 32-32-32 sts remain on each shoulder. When the work measures 58-61-64 cm, dec 10-10-10 sts evenly distributed on each shoulder = 22-22-22 sts. On the next row, bind off all sts.

Back: = 136-160-184 sts. Bind off for armholes as on the front = 126-126-126 sts. Keep 1 st at each armhole edge in garter st throughout and continue in pattern until the work measures 56-59-62 cm. Dec 20-20-20 sts evenly distributed over the center 54-54-54 sts. On the next row, bind off the center 34-34-34 sts. Bind off 2 sts at each neck edge every other row 2 times = 32-32-32 sts remain on each shoulder. When the work measures 58-61-64 cm, dec 10-10-10 sts evenly distributed on each shoulder = 22-22-22 sts. On the next row, bind off all sts.

Sleeve: Cast on 50-50-50 sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 2 rows garter st; increasing 30-30-30 sts evenly distributed on the last row = 80-80-80 sts. Change to larger double pointed needles and establish pattern as follows: Pattern 2 over 8 sts (4 sts each side of marker), and Pattern 1 over the remaining 72 sts. Continue in pattern as established. When the work measures 6 cm, inc 1 st at each side of Pattern 2, 12-12-12 times:
Size XS: every 9 rows
Sizes S/M and L: alternately every 8 and 9 rows = 104-104-104 sts. Knit the increased sts into Pattern 1 as you go along. When the work measures 49-46-45 cm, bind off 4 sts each side of marker (the 8 sts of Pattern 2). Bind off at each side for sleeve cap every other row: 4 sts 2-0-0 times, 3 sts 1-2-1 times, 2 sts 1-8-13 times, 3 sts 1-2-2 times, 4 sts 3-1-0 times. Dec 8 sts evenly distributed over the remaining sts. On the next row bind off all sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 90 to 100 sts around the neck on smaller double pointed needles and join. Purl 1 row (right side row), knit 4 rows stockinette st, purl 1 row, and then knit 5 rows stockinette st for facing. Bind off loosely, fold the facing over double against the wrong side and sew. Sew in the sleeves using the edge sts on the body as a seam allowance.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.03.2006
Chart M.1: 6 sts in right side should be displaced first when the 6 sts gets displaced in the left side.
Updated online: 30.11.2016
BODY:...Attach a marker at the center front and center back - see the arrow on the chart. When the work measures 39-41-44 cm, bind off 8 sts at each side (4 sts each side of side markers) for armholes. Front and back each = 136-160-184 sts. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = put 2 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, K 2, K 2 from the cable needle.
symbols = put 4 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, K 4, K 4 from the cable needle.
symbols = put 4 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K 4, K 4 from the cable needle.
symbols = put 2 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, P 2, K 2 from the cable needle.
symbols = put 2 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K 2, P 2 from the cable needle.
symbols = put 4 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, P 2, K 4 from the cable needle.
symbols = put 2 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K 4, P 2 from the cable needle.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 64-11

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Capite Britou wrote:

Bonjour, quelle longueur d'aiguilles pour une taille S/M pour ce modèle merci

28.01.2024 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Britou, on doit toujours utiliser une aiguille circulaire de circonférence inférieure à celle de la circonférence totale, autrement dit, une aiguille de 80 cm suffira pour le bas du pull, vous pouvez utiliser une aiguille circulaire de 40 cm pour le haut des manches/le col ou les tricoter sur aiguilles doubles pointes/magic loop. Bon tricot!

29.01.2024 - 12:23

country flag Marianne Kenny wrote:

Hi are rows 22, 23 and 24 repetitions of 30 pattern stitches? Regards Marianne

31.01.2023 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marianne, rows 22, 23 and 24 of A.1 have 24 stitches in the repeat. It shows more stitches so that you can better see how the cable is displaced. You work 30 stitches in each repeat, but you don't need to increase stitches; you just start working on the last 6 stitches of the previous repeat. Happy knitting!

31.01.2023 - 23:04

country flag Marianne Kenny wrote:

Hi I mean are rows 22, 23 and 24 repetitions of 30 stitches I counted wrong in my first question also do you start the pattern on a wrong side row?

22.01.2023 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kenny, you will displace the cables when working row 22 and 24, ie on row 22 you displace the first P2 towards the left by working (put 2 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K 4, P 2 from the cable needle) and you will dixplace the last P2 towards the right at the end of the repeat working ( put 4 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, P 2, K 4 from the cable needle.), then on row 24 you will displace the first P2 again towards the left (7th symbol) and then the last P2 towards the right (6th symbol). Then the first cable is now the large one and the 2nd one is the smallest one. Happy knitting!

23.01.2023 - 10:01

country flag Marianne Kenny wrote:

Hi are rows 21, 22 and 23 repetitions of 30 stitches or do you just do the extra 6 stitches at the beginning? Can’t understand how the cabled stitches in row 21 correspond with the 2 purl stitches if you put 6 extra stitches in at the beginning of the repetition?

22.01.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kenny, there are 16 sts in this section and you will make 2 cables over each 8 sts: put 4 sts on a cable needle behind the work, K 4, K 4 from the cable needle. then put 4 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, K 4, K 4 from the cable needle. Happy knitting!

23.01.2023 - 09:56

country flag Mie wrote:

Hvilken længde skal rundpinden have?

08.05.2022 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mie. Når du strikker rundt på bolen er det best med 80 cm lengde. 50 eller 60 cm når du strikker rundt på halskanten og ønsker du å strikke rundt på erme når du har nok masker, kan du bruke 50 cm. mvh DROPS Design

09.05.2022 - 12:46

country flag Hilde Jenny Sørensen wrote:

Jeg har strikket genseren i oppgitt garn, men ønsker nå å bruke Rainbow Cotton 8/6 fordi jeg ikke finner ønsker farge i oppgitt garn. Jeg prøver å skjønne hvordan jeg skal regne om slik at genseren får samme mål - 2 tråder? større str. for å få riktig mål?

24.04.2022 - 09:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hilde Jenny. Rainbow Cotton 8/6 er ikke et DROPS garn, så det garnet har vi ikke noen informasjon om. Om du ønsker å bruke et annet DROPS garn, kan du bruke vår garnkalkulator og du vil få opp 15 forslag på DROPS kvaliteter du enten strikker med 1 tråd eller 2 tråder. mvh DROPS Design

25.04.2022 - 11:38

country flag Eva Johnsen wrote:

Hei. Er det tilfelle at S/M skal ha 336 m i bolen? Etter rillen, skal det økes fra 210 m til 336? For meg set det ut som dette blir en veldig stor genser. Ser at strikkfastheten er 20 m =10 cm. Håper jeg kan få svar på dette?

28.03.2022 - 15:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Ja, i str S/M skal det være 336 masker på bolen. Strikkefastheten er oppgitt i glattstrikk, men hele genseren er strikker i strukturmønster (maskene vil trekke seg mye sammen). Om du ser målene på målskissen er det den størrelsen genseren vil få. mvh DROPS Design

04.04.2022 - 11:27

country flag Michelle Plettau wrote:

Can you please explain exactly how to read and knit diagrams for 64-11 cabled jumper. I know to start in bottom right and work to left of diagram M. 1. Is diagram M. 1 24 stitches repeated over 24 or 48 rows? Also why is the top half of M. 1 shifted to the right? When do I knit diagram M. 2?

22.10.2021 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, the pattern itself is 48 wor high, however, the second 24 rows unit is just about the same as the first one, only moved half a repeat to the right (that is is why the to half is shifted as well). Happy Stitching!

24.10.2021 - 02:46

country flag Michelle Plettau wrote:

I would like to knit drops 64-11 cabled sweater. Can you please explain \'exactly\' how to read the diagrams. I know to read from bottom right to left of diagram M. 1 but is the diagram 24 stitches repeated over 24 rows or 48 rows?? Also why is the top part of diagram M. 1 shifted to the right? Also don\'t know when I am supposed to be knitting diagram M. 2 as this isn\'t explained in instructions

22.10.2021 - 18:20

country flag Rita wrote:

Buongiorno, per favore mi spiegate in maniera più semplice questi due passaggi: motivo: Nota! Nel diagramma M.1 6 m del lato destro devono essere prima spostate quando le 6 m vengono spostate nel lato sinistro. manica: motivo 2 su 8 m (4 m a ogni lato del segnapunti), e motivo 1 sulle 72 m rimaste. grazie

07.10.2021 - 08:51