DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS 52-19
Sizes:
Women’s Small - Medium - Large
Finished measurements: 112 - 120 - 128 cm
Men’s Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Finished measurements: 120-128 cm
Numbers in ( ) are men’s sizes.

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
450-500-550 (600-700) g col. 01, natural white
250-250-300 (350-350) g col. 16, gray

DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm circular needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
DROPS 2.5 mm, 3 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

3 pairs DROPS tin clasps

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on largest needles in pattern = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See charts (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. Arrows indicate the starting points for different sizes.


Body: Numbers in ( ) = men's sizes. Knit the sweater in the round and cut steeks for armholes and neck split.
Cast on 248-264-280 (264-280) sts with natural white on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 3 cm stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge - measure the work from here). Change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern 1 - start at the appropriate arrow on the chart and knit pattern over 124-132-140 (132-140) sts for the front, place a marker, start at the appropriate arrow again and knit pattern over 124-132-140 (132-140) sts for the back. After Pattern 1 knit Pattern 2 - start at the arrow as on Pattern 1. When the work measures 33-35-36 (39-41) cm , inc 5 sts on either side (these sts are for the steeks and are not knitted into the pattern). When the work measures 39-41-43 (46-49) cm - adjust for complete pattern - knit Pattern 3 (start at the appropriate arrow on the chart and knit across the front, start at the arrow again and knit across the back). When the work measures 43-45-47 (50-53) cm, bind off the center 12 sts in the front for split. On the next row cast on 5 new sts over the bound-off sts - these sts are for the steek and are not knitted into the pattern. When the work measures 55-57-59 (62-65) cm, bind off the center front 16-18-18 (18-20) sts + 5 steek sts for the neck and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times. At the same time, when the work measures 58-60-62 (65-68) cm, bind off the center back 38-40-40 (40-42) sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each back neck edge on the next row. Bind off after Pattern 3. The work measures approximately 60-62-64 (67-70) cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 46-48-50 (50-52) sts on mid-size double pointed needles with natural white; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 3 cm stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge - measure the work from here). Change to largest double pointed needles and knit Pattern 1, centering the pattern on the sleeve. At the same time, when the work measures 7 cm inc 1 st each side of marker 37-36-37 (37-38) times:
Women's S + M + L and Men's M/L: every 3rd row
Men's S/M: alternately every 3rd and 4th row
= 120-120-124 (124-128) sts. After Pattern 1 repeat Pattern 2 until the work measures 34-33-32 (39-38) cm - adjust for complete pattern. Then knit Pattern 4 once, then Pattern 5 once. The work measures approximately 48-47-46 (53-52) cm. Then knit 2 cm reverse stockinette stitch with natural white for a seam allowance over the cut edge on the body. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew a marker thread in the center of the steek sts on either side and neck split. Sew two machine seams around the marker thread, 1st seam = 1/2 stitch from the marker thread, 2nd seam = 1/2 stitch from first seam. Cut steeks for armholes and split. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approximately 20-30 sts along the left side of the split on smallest double pointed needles with gray and knit border as follows: 3 cm stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), 3 cm stockinette stitch. Repeat along the right side of the split. Fold the edges over against the wrong side and sew. Pick up approximately 110-120 sts around the neck and over the placket on smallest double pointed needles with gray and knit border as follows: 3 cm stockinette stitch, change to natural white and knit 1 row stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge), 1 row stockinette stitch, change back to gray and knit 3 cm stockinette stitch. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew. Sew the sleeves to the body from the right side as follows: Sew alternately a stitch in the last row on the sleeve before the seam allowance and a stitch on the body after the machine seam. Turn the sweater inside out and sew the seam allowance from the sleeve over the cut edge on the body by hand. Sew on the hooks.




SOCKS:

Sizes: European shoe sizes 38-41 (41-44)
women’s US shoe sizes 7 - 9-1/2 (9-1/2 - 11)
men’s US shoe sizes 6 - 8-1/2 (8-1/2 - 10)
total length: 58 (65) cm
foot length: 23 (26) cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio

Alternative 1:
250 (300) g col. 16, gray
50 (50) g col. 01, natural white

Alternative 2:
250 (300) g col. 01, natural white
50 (50) g col. 16, gray

DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. The chart is identical for all sizes. The chart includes Patterns 6, 7, 8 & 9 -- only Patterns 6 and 7 are used for the socks.

Rib: * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from * - *.

Socks: Color alternatives are in ( ). Cast on 72 (80) sts on smaller double pointed needles with gray (natural white); join and place a marker at the join (this is the center back). Knit 14 (16) cm rib. Change to larger double pointed needles and knit 2 rows stockinette stitch. Knit Pattern 6 once, then repeat Pattern 7. When the work measures 30 (32) cm begin shaping the leg. Dec 1 st on each side of the marker at the center back (before the marker: knit 1, slip 1, pass the slipped st over (psso); and after the marker: K 2 tog) every 5th (4th) row 12 (14) times = 48 (52) sts. When the work measures 50 (56) cm , put the center 24 (26) sts in front on a stitch holder and knit the rest with gray (natural white). Then knit 5 (6) cm stockinette stitch (for the heel) over the 24 (26) center sts in the back, and then turn the heel:

1st row (right side): Knit until 8 (9) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
2nd row (wrong side): Purl until 8 (9) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
3rd row (right side): Knit until 7 (8) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
4th row (wrong side): Purl until 7 (8) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
5th row (right side): Knit until 6 (7) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso. Turn the work.
6th row (wrong side): Purl until 6 (7) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
7th row (right side): Knit until 5 (6) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, knit 1, psso 1. Turn the work.
8th row (wrong side): Purl until 5 (6) sts remain on the needle, slip 1, purl 1, psso. Turn the work.
Continue in this manner, working 1 less stitch before decreasing every other row, until 12 (14) sts remain.
Then pick up 12 (13) sts on either side of the heel and distribute all sts evenly on 4 needles = 60 (66) sts. Put a marker on either side of the uppermost 24 (26) sts. Dec 1 st before the marker before the 24 (26) sts and 1 st after the marker after the 24 (26) sts every other row 6 times in all = 48 (54) sts. Make the decreases as follows: Before the marker: K 2 tog. After the marker: slip 1, knit 1 st, psso. Knit until the foot measures approximately 19 (21.5) cm. Put a marker on either side of the foot and bind off for the toe on either side of the marker as follows: K 2 tog before the marker and K 2 tog after the marker, repeat 3 times every other row = 36 (42) sts, then 7 (9) times on every row = 8 (6) sts. Pull together remaining sts and fasten well.




HAT:

Size: Women's (Men's)
Circumference: 51 (55) cm

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
100 (100) g col. 16, gray
50 (50) g col. 01, natural white

DROPS 3 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows on larger needles in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See chart (1 chart = 1 repeat). The pattern is shown from the right side and is knit entirely in stockinette stitch. The chart is identical for all sizes. The chart includes Patterns 6, 7, 8 & 9 -- only Patterns 8 and 9 are used for the hat.


Hat: Cast on 112 (120) sts on smaller double pointed needles with gray; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 33 rows stockinette stitch, purl 1 row (for the folding edge - measure the work from here). Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern 8 and then Pattern 9. After Pattern 9 knit stockinette stitch in gray for 3.5 (4.5) cm , then attach a marker after every 8th (6th) st. On the next row, after each marker K 2 tog. Repeat this decrease every 6th row until 14 (20) sts remain. On the next row, * K 2 tog * across row. Then pull a double strand through the remaining sts and sew it in. Fold the edge over against the wrong side and sew.

Diagram

symbols = gray - sweater, gray (off white) - socks
symbols = off white (sweater), off white (gray) - socks
symbols = Women
symbols = Men
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Terttu wrote:

Miten hihan lisäykset tehdään ? Säilyykö kuvio myös hihan takana?

20.11.2023 - 09:14

DROPS Design answered:

Voit tehdä lisäykset esim. langankierroin. Neulo tällöin langankierrot seuraavalla kerroksella kiertäen, jottei työhön jää reikiä. Lisätyt silmukat voit neuloa pohjavärillä. Vaihtoehtoisesti voit neulo niillä mallineuletta sitä mukaa, kun pystyt tekemään kokonaisia kuvioita.

21.11.2023 - 18:23

country flag Margaret Stewart wrote:

I want to make mens jumper 52-19. It requires 3 pairs of DROPS tin clasps but i can't find anywhere that sells them. Can you give me supplier in the UK please. If not can you please suggest an alternative I want to make this for my son who was a big AHA/ Morten Harket fan in the 80's and would just love to have this made for him. kind regards Margaret

21.09.2023 - 11:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stewart, we have these claps unfortunately any longer - but your DROPS store might be able to help you further (even per mail or telephone). Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

21.09.2023 - 11:50

country flag Debby Westcott wrote:

I am wanting to knit the hat but don't understand where pattern 8 and 9 are?

13.09.2023 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Debby, Patterns 8 and 9 are part of the vertical pattern to the right of the other diagrams at the bottom of the page. Happy knitting!

14.09.2023 - 06:45

country flag Hazel Jennings wrote:

I'm not sure about needle sizes for the sweater as two lists are given. - one with 3 sizes and one with two. I just want to be sure I have the right "smaller circular needle"

11.04.2023 - 09:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jennings, the tension is here worked on the largest needles, ie size 3,5 mm. Happy knitting!

11.04.2023 - 14:20

country flag Torsten Grabow wrote:

Hallo wird bei der Mütze immer wieder nach 6 Maschen zwei Maschen zusammengesteckt in der 6 Reihe oder wird der Markierungsfaden nach dem zusamenstricken also dann nach der 5 Masche benutzt?

18.12.2022 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Herr Grabow, es wird immer nach jeder Markierungsfaden abgenommen, so sind es immer 1 Masche weniger nach jeder Abnahme - bei der 2. Größe haben Sie 20 Markier mit je 6 Maschen dazwischen, nach der 1. Abnahmen sind es nur noch 5 Maschen zwischen jeden Markierer, nach der 2. Abnahmen sind es nur noch 4 Maschen zwischen den Markierern, usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.12.2022 - 09:43

country flag Lois Schultz wrote:

When attaching the sleeve (which has a knitted \"facing\" in reverse stockinette) you work from the right side and take a stitch from the sleeve. What kind of stitch do you use? Following the wool direction (like Kitchener stitch) or simple up and down like sewing with thread? I wish there was a video of this process.

02.03.2022 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Schultz, you can sew the sleeve onto armhole as on this video and then sew the extra rows from WS as for the collar in this video. Happy assembly!

03.03.2022 - 15:13

country flag Maiken Bols wrote:

Hvilken str. er hægterne?

15.12.2020 - 09:21

country flag Rhina wrote:

Hej igen, Altså skal jeg starte ved pilen for den størrelse jeg strikker og så starte ved pilen igen når jeg er ved rygstykket? Hilsen Rhina

20.05.2020 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rhina, ja det stemmer :)

22.05.2020 - 15:09

country flag Rhina Misha Rusbjerg wrote:

Hej Er ikke helt med på hvad der menes ned det ? M.1. Start ved pilen på diagrammet og strik m over forstk, start tilbage ved pilen og strik m over ryg. Kan I uddybe det? Hilsner Rhina

16.05.2020 - 07:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Du ser längst ner på diagram M.1 och startar vid pilen för din storlek. Sticka härifrån på framstycket och när du stickat m på framstycket börjar du vid pilen på diagrammet igen och stickar rygstycket. Mvh DROPS Design

19.05.2020 - 11:38

country flag Brit Johannessen Hiis wrote:

Hei. strikker denne. Etter M2 står det at jeg skal begynne på M4, Dette kan vell ikke medføre riktighet da det etter M2 er tunger som er starten og dette finner jeg igjen på M3. Tenker jeg riktig her? At jeg starter med M3 og fortsetter oppover med M4 ? Takk for svar. Brit Johannessen Hiis

10.02.2020 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Brit. På bolen strikkes det M.1, M.2 og M.3, mens på ermene strikkes det M.1, M.2 og deretter M.4 og M.3. På bildet ser man at "krysset" ikke strikkes på ermene. God Fornøyelse!

10.02.2020 - 19:00