DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Afternoon Date

Crochet DROPS jacket in ”Safran” with lace pattern. Size: S to XXXL

DROPS 120-31
DROPS design: Pattern no E-155
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-750-800 g colour no 50, light ice blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm – or size needed to get 23 tr x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, no 521: 5 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Turn each row with 3 ch – NOTE: These 3 ch do not replace the first tr but are additional sts.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.4 – NOTE: Make sure length of 1 ch is the same as width of 1 tr, otherwise the pattern won’t be even.
DECREASING TIP-1:
Dec 1 tr by crochet 2 tr tog as follows: Crochet 1 tr in first st but wait with the last pull-through, crochet 1 tr in next st and when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
DECREASING TIP-2: (applies to armhole and sleeve cap):
Dec as follows at the end of row: Crochet row until number of tr to be dec remain, turn piece and work return row.
Dec as follows at beg of row: Crochet sl sts on number of tr to be dec.
BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 buttonhole = replace 3rd tr from mid front with 1 ch.
Make buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 9, 15, 21 and 27 cm.
SIZE M: 4, 10, 16, 22 and 28 cm.
SIZE L: 5, 11, 17, 23 and 29 cm.
SIZE XL: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30 cm.
SIZE XXL: 7, 13, 19, 25 and 31 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 8, 14, 20, 26 and 32 cm.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
Crochet 267-297-327-357-387-417 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 3 mm and Safran. Crochet first row as follows (from WS): 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 212-236-260-284-308-332 tr (+ 3 ch at beg of row). SEE CROCHET TIP!
Crochet next row as follows: M.1A (= 8 sts), M.2A a total of 8-9-10-11-12-13 times, M.2B (= 4 sts) and M.3A (= 8 sts). Continue with M.1B over M.1A and M.3B over M.3A (continue M.2 as before).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-4-5-6-7-8 cm make BUTTONHOLES – see above!
After M.2 continue with tr over M.2 and M.1B and M.3B each side as before, AT THE SAME TIME on first row after M.2 dec 16 tr evenly (do not dec in M.1 and M.3) – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 = 196-220-244-268-292-316 sts. Insert a marker 52-58-64-70-76-82 sts in from each side (= 92-104-116-128-140-152 sts between markers on back piece). When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm dec 1 tr each side of both markers – SEE DECREASING TIP-1, and repeat the dec on every 3rd row a total of 3 times = 184-208-232-256-280-304 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
SIDE INC: When piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm inc 1 tr each side of both markers by working 2 tr in 1 tr, repeat the inc on every 3rd row a total of 5 times.
NECK DEC: When piece measures 28-29-30-32-32-33 cm dec for neck. Dec 1 st inside M.1 and M.3 – SEE DECREASING TIP-1, and repeat the dec on every row a total of 4 times for all sizes, then on every other row 14-14-15-15-15-16 times.
ARMHOLE: At the same time when piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm divide the piece for armholes and complete front and back pieces separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work row until 4-5-6-7-8-9 tr remain before marker at the side, turn and work return row – continue dec for neck. Now dec for armhole towards the side on every row: 2 tr 0-1-2-4-6-7 times, then 1 tr 3-5-6-6-6-7 times – SEE DECREASING TIP-2. When all dec for armhole and neck are complete there are 29-30-31-32-33-34 sts left on shoulder. Continue with tr and pattern as before until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm, cut the thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

BACK PIECE:
Crochet tr back and forth on the middle 88-98-108-118-128-138 tr between markers (4-5-6-7-8-9 tr each side = armhole) – AT THE SAME TIME dec for armhole each side as described for front piece = 82-84-88-90-92-96 tr. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm crochet 2 rows on 29-30-31-32-33-34 tr only on each shoulder (the middle 24-24-26-26-26-28 tr = neck). Cut the thread, piece measures approx 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

SLEEVE:
Crochet back and forth. Crochet 93 ch for all sizes (includes 3 ch to turn with) with crochet hook size 3 mm and Safran. Crochet first row as follows (from WS): 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* = 73 tr (+ 3 ch at beg of row). Continue in M.4, 3 repeats across the row – SEE CROCHET TIP, and finish with 1 tr in last tr. After M.4 continue with 1 tr in each tr until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME on first row after M.4 dec 13-13-11-11-9-9 tr evenly – SEE DECREASING TIP-1 = 60-60-62-62-64-64 tr. When piece measures 18-18-16-20-19-15 cm inc 1 tr each side by working 2 tr in the last but one tr, repeat the inc on every 4-3-3-2-2-2 row a total of 9-11-12-14-15-17 times = 78-82-86-90-94-98 tr. When piece measures 49-48-47-46-45-44 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) dec for sleeve cap on every row each side – SEE DECREASING TIP-2: 4 tr 1 time, 3 tr 1-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 tr 3-2-2-2-2-3 times and 1 tr 1-1-3-5-5-6 times, then dec 2 tr each side until piece measures 56 cm, now dec 3 tr 1 time each side. Cut the thread, piece measures approx 57 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge. Sew sleeve seams and set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.

PICOT BORDERS:
Beg mid back and crochet along neckline, down along left front piece, along bottom edge, up along right front piece and back to mid back. Crochet with crochet hook size 3 mm and Safran as follows: 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch (= 1 picot), skip approx 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
Crochet a similar border round both sleeve edges.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.02.2010
SLEEVE: ..... Cut the thread, piece measures approx 57 cm.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 tr
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (48)

country flag Christine wrote:

Wenn die Wendeluftmaschen nicht das erste Stäbchen ersetzen sollen, sind diese dann jeweils am Anfang "zuviel". Ist das so gemeint und wofür ist das nötig ? Freundliche Grüße !

04.04.2023 - 20:58

country flag Concha wrote:

Hola, hay algo que no entiendo, cuando empieza el escote, hay que disminuir dentro de M1 y M3, pero así la cenefa del borde se estropea. O es entre M1 y M3?

22.03.2023 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Concha, dentro de M.1 y M.3 quiere decir: después de M.1 y antes de M.3. M.1 y M.3 no varían.

26.03.2023 - 22:28

country flag Florence wrote:

Je n'ai pas bien compris comment faire l'arrondi des manches - DIMINUTIONS 2 : 1 fois 4 B, -2 fois 3 B, 2-2-3 fois 2 B et 1-1-3-5-5-6 fois 1 B. Sur combien de rangs cela se fait il ? Au début, j'ai fait 1er rang diminution 4 B, 2ème et 3ème rang diminution 3 B, 4ème et 5ème diminution 2 B et les 6 rangs suivant 1 B : mais l'arrondi ne correspond pas. Faut il faire 1er rang 4B, 2ème 2x 3B, 3ème 3x2B, et les 6 rangs suivant 1B ? Merci pour votre aide

31.10.2022 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florence, on doit diminuer tous les rangs (mention ajoutée, merci pour votre retour); autrement dit, vous diminuez comme indiqué sous DIMINUTIONS 2 : au début (avec des mailles coulées) et à la fin (tournez quand il reste le nombre de mailles à diminuer) de chaque rang, sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. L'arrondi de la manche doit mesurer 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm (cf schéma) - pour chaque diminution, 1 fois = 1 rang, donc 1 rang en diminuant 4 b de chaque côté, puis 2 rangs en diminuant 3 b de chaque côté etc... en taille XXXL vous allez crocheter 15 rangs au total soit environ 13 cm. Bon crochet!

31.10.2022 - 16:18

country flag Justyna wrote:

Hello, I like this pattern verry much and I wonder whether it is possible to crocet it wit use brusched alpaca silk? If yes, how many g I would need?

29.10.2022 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Justyna, no, you can't use Brushed Alpaca Silk since it's thicker than Safran and if you work too tight the resulting garment will not be the same. Happy crocheting!

30.10.2022 - 20:07

country flag Viviane wrote:

En respectant les augmentations et diminutions pour la taille S, le nombre de mailles est correct jusqu'à la hauteur de 40 cm. Au moment de poursuivre le dos et les côtés séparément, j'ai une erreur du nombre de mailles pour le dos ! J'obtiens 50 (côté 1) - 108 (au lieu de 98) - 50 (côté 2) J'ai beau recompter le tout, j'ai toujours 10 mailles de trop entre les marqueurs (en plus des 10 mailles laissées libres pour les emmanchures). Pourriez-vous m'aider svp ? Merci

05.08.2022 - 13:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Viviane, suivez-vous la taille S (= 88 m pour le dos après 39 cm) ou bien la taille M (= 98 m pour le dos après 40 cm)? Après la division, vous diminuez en S: 3 x 1 bride de chaque côté soit 6 mailles = 88-6 =82 brides; en M: 1 x 2 brides + 5 x 1 bride de chaque côté soit 14 m en moins = 98-14=84 mailles pour le dos. Pensez à bien sauter 4-5 brides après le 1er devant et crochetez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 4-5 brides avant le 2ème devant (emmanchures). En espérant avoir pu vous aider. Bon crochet!

05.08.2022 - 16:30

country flag Gerda wrote:

De zijkanten, M1 en M3, tellen slechts 8 rijen op het telpatroon. Moet je dan na de 8ste rij herbeginnen met M1A en M3A en daarna M1B en M3B of laat je M1A en M3A weg en haak je enkel nog telkens opnieuw de 7 rijen van M1B en M3B voor de zijkanten? Alvast bedankt. Groetjes, Gerda.

04.04.2022 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gerda,

Je herhaalt M.1B en M.3B steeds in de hoogte. M.3A en M.1A haak je slechts 1 keer.

04.04.2022 - 13:49

country flag Mira wrote:

Hallo Ich möchte diese Jacke gerne ohne Taille häkeln, also gerade an den Seiten hoch . Kann ich dann ich dann den Teil mit den 16 stb abnahme und Aufnahme einfach überspringen und bis zum Armausschnitt gerade weiter häkeln? Das selbe möchte bei dem Arm auch machen, kann ich da bis ca 18 cm normal hoch häkeln und dann mit der Zunahme der M beginnen? Danke

06.03.2022 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mira, also ja wahrscheinlich, beachten Sie nur, daß Sie vielleicht dann etwas mehr Garn brauchen werden. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

07.03.2022 - 09:02

country flag Uta Große wrote:

Wird immer nur am Reihenanfang der Armkugel abgenommen? Oder gleichzeitig am Anfang und Ende?

30.03.2021 - 11:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Uta, Sie nehmen sowohl am Anfang als auch am Ende jeder Reihe ab. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

03.04.2021 - 11:05

country flag Stéphanie wrote:

Bonsoir, je suis bloquée dès le début du travail... Au 4eme rang du diagramme, il y a un point ajouré formé par les 2 mailles en l'air mais je ne tombe pas juste à la fin du rang car je n'ai pas les 13 brides qui séparent la fin de M2 et le début de M3B. Je crois que je ne lis pas correctement ces diagrammes...je réalise une taille L. Pouvez-vous m'aider s'il vous plaît ? Merci

03.03.2021 - 22:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Stéphanie, vérifiez que vous crochetez bien les diagrammes comme il faut, autrement dit: M.1 (= 8 brides), puis répétez 10 fois les 24 mailles de M.2A (= 240 mailles au total), crochetez maintenant les 4 mailles de M.2B et terminez par les 8 mailles de M.3A; vous avez ainsi: 8+ (10x24) + 9 + 8 = 260 mailles. Au 4ème rang, M.2A se commence par *13 brides, puis 2 ml, on saute 2 brides et on termine par 9 brides* (=13+2+9= 24) et on répète 10 fois de *-* et on termine par les 4 mailles de M.2B (= vous aurez ainsi bien 13 mailles après le dernier point ajouré). Bon crochet!

04.03.2021 - 07:57

country flag Liv wrote:

Ich arbeite am Vorder- und Rückenteil. Es heißt, auf beiden Seiten des Markierungsfadens je eine Masche ab- bzw. zunehmen. Sind dies direkt die Maschen links und rechts vom Markierungsfaden, oder in gleichmäßigen Abständen über die Reihe verteilt? Danke!

25.08.2020 - 07:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Liv, die Abnahmen auf beiden Seiten der Markierungsfäden sollen vor und nach jedem Markierungsfäden abgenommen werden (nicht regelmäßig), dh es wird jeweils 1 M bei jedem Vorderteil abgenommen und 2 M beim Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

25.08.2020 - 09:24