DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 120-18
DROPS design: Pattern no W-392
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Size: XS - S/M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
NOTE: Because of the rib the jacket will become very elastic and therefore seem smaller than measurements in chart. Knit your usual size.

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour no 16, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4 mm – or size needed to get 19 sts x 25 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS SILVER BUTTON, no 533: 2 pcs..

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 to M.4. Diagrams show the pattern from RS.
INCREASING TIP (applies to sleeve):
Make all inc from RS! Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st each side by making 1 YO, on next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. BUTTONHOLES:
Make 2 buttonholes on right front band approx 37-39-41-43-45-47 and 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm from shoulder. 1 BUTTONHOLE = cast off 1 st and cast on 1 new st on next row (for neatest result make buttonhole in P-section, as seen from RS).
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JACKET:
All parts worked back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 81-95-109-123-135-149 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows (first row = RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see above, K2, * P4/K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 1-2-3-4-4-5 times, * P3/K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, * P4/K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, P4, * K3/P3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, * K3/P4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 1-2-3-4-4-5 times, K2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST. When piece measures 6 cm work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, rib as before on the next 6-13-20-27-27-34 sts, stocking st on the next 21-21-21-21-27-27 sts, rib as before on the next 25 sts, stocking st on the next 21-21-21-21-27-27 sts, rib as before on the next 6-13-20-27-27-34 sts and 1 edge st. Continue like this with K over K, P over P and edge sts in garter st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 34 cm dec on next row from RS as follows: dec all P4 (= 6-8-10-12-12-14 P-sections) to P3 by P tog the first 2 P sts in each P-section = 75-87-99-111-123-135 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm cast off for armhole each side at beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time for all sizes, 4 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-3-4-4-6 times and 1 st 1-2-4-5-4-6 times = 65-71-71-77-83-83 sts. Continue with K over K, P over P and 1 garter st each side towards armhole. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm cast off the middle 19-19-19-21-21-21 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 22-25-25-27-30-30 sts left on shoulder. Cast of loosely with K over K and P over P when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 33-40-47-54-61-68 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from mid front (first row = RS):
Size XS: M.1A (= 26 sts), P4/K2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST.
Size S/M + L + XL + XXL + XXXL: M.1A (= 26-26-26-33-33) sts, * P4/K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 1-2-3-3-4 times, P4, K2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST.
ALL SIZES: When piece measures 6 cm work M.1B instead of M.1A until finished measurements (work remaining sts as before). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34 cm dec on next row from RS as follows: dec all P4 (= 1-2-3-4-4-5 P-sections) to P3 by P tog the first 2 sts in each P-section = 32-38-44-50-57-63 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm cast off 4 sts for armhole at beg of row from WS and now cast off to shape the armhole at beg of every row from WS: 4 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-3-4-4-6 times and 1 st 1-2-4-5-4-6 times = 27-30-30-33-37-37 sts left on needle. Continue with K over K, P over P and 1 garter st towards armhole. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm dec 5-5-5-6-7-7 sts evenly on M.1 = 22-25-25-27-30-30 sts left on shoulder. On next row cast off all sts of with K over K and P over P.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored, i.e. work M.2 instead of M.1. When casting off for armhole at the side cast off at beg of row from RS (instead of WS).

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 52-52-52-52-56-56 sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib back and forth on needle as follows (first row = RS):
Size XS + S/M + L + XL: 1 edge st in garter st, P1, * K3/P3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, M.3A (= 24 sts), * P3/K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, P1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Size XXL + XXXL: 1 edge st in garter st, P1, * K3/P4 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, M.3A (= 24 sts), * P4/K3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, P1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
ALL SIZES: Continue like this until piece measures approx 8 cm. Now work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, 13-13-13-13-15-15 sts in reverse stocking st (i.e. P on RS and K on WS), M.3B, 13-13-13-13-15-15 sts in reverse stocking st and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this (M.3B repeated vertically). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 9-9-9-9-11-13 cm inc 1 st each side - see INCREASING TIP, and repeat the inc on every 6-4-3-2.5-2-1.5 cm a total of 7-10-12-14-15-18 times = 66-72-76-80-86-92 sts. When piece measures 49-48-45-45-44-43 cm - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- cast off for sleeve cap each side at beg of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 2-3-9-9-10-12 times, then cast off 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-56-56-56-56-57 cm. On next row cast off 3 sts at beg of row, and now dec 6 sts evenly on M.3. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row and work remaining sts on row, P sts from M.3. Cast off all sts.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Like right sleeve, but work M.4 instead of M.3.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

FRONT BAND:
Pick up from RS approx 149-155-161-167-173-179 sts (divisible by 6 + 5) along left front piece from mid back to bottom edge on circular needle size 4 mm with Paris. K 1 row from WS and continue in rib as follows from RS: 2 garter sts, * P3/K3 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with 3 garter sts. Continue like this until front band measures 4 cm. Now insert a marker after 32-32-32-38-38-38 sts from mid back. Continue in rib as before, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st in each P-section (as seen from RS) on the 32-32-32-38-38-38 sts = 5-5-5-6-6-6 inc sts (to make collar wide enough round neckline). Repeat the inc when front band measures 7 and 10 cm. When front band measures 11-11-11-12-12-12 cm cast off all sts with K over K and P over P. Repeat along right front piece from bottom edge to mid back (first row rib worked as follows from RS: 3 garter sts, * K3/P3 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain and finish with 2 garter sts mid back). When front band measures 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm make 2 BUTTONHOLES – see above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew front bands tog mid back in outer loops of sts. When folding collar towards RS there will be 4 garter sts mid back with K6 each side. Set in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in outer loop of sts. Sew buttons on left front band.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 6 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K4, slip the last 2 sts from cable needle back on needle, K2, K4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Véronique wrote:

Bonjour! Je tricote présentement le dos et j’ai débuté la section au-delà des 6cm de côtes. Dans le patron, il est mentionné de tricoter 21m en jersey, intercalé entre les côtes du centre et des bords. Je me demande si j’ai bien compris le patron car il ne semble pas y avoir d’autre sections tricotées en jersey sur le modèle. Merci d’avance!

14.02.2024 - 14:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, c'est juste ainsi, vous allez tricoter le dos avec les 21 mailles centrales en jersey et (en taille S à XL), avec des mailles en côtes de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

14.02.2024 - 16:31

country flag Brina We wrote:

Ja, ich glaube es hat jetzt klick gemacht re., li. 4 re. 3 li., 3 re, usw. bis zum Ende der Klammer. Also im Grunde der rechte Teil vom Diagramm. Danke für den Denkanstoß

18.02.2022 - 09:48

country flag Brina We wrote:

Geholfen haben Sie mir schon mit dem x 2. Ich bin von x 3 ausgegangen, weil ich nicht richtig geschaut habe und beim Rückenteil ich an dritte Stelle gucken musste. Aber ich verstehe nicht, was ich bei M1A stricken muss. Welche M. Sind M1A.

17.02.2022 - 20:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brina, die Diagramme sind alle in 2 Teilen geteilt, die unteren Reihen sind A und die oberen sind B; bei M.1 in L stricken Sie nur die 26 ersten unten markierten Maschen (siehe "XS+S/M+L+XL" im Diagram), bei M.2 die 26 letzten. M.1A/M.2A sind die ersten Reihen die an der rechten Seite (M.1)/linken Seiten(M.2) gezeigt/markiert sind = Bündchen vor Zöpfen. (Gleich dann mit M.3 und M.4, die ersten Reihen sind A und die letzten B). Hilft es Ihnen noch?

18.02.2022 - 08:25

country flag Brina We wrote:

Ich versuche mich gerade an dem Vorderteil, aber ich komme auf keinen grünen Nenner. Ich habe für Größe „L“ 47 M. angeschlagen und dann eine R. li gestrickt. Und bin nun wieder bei der Vorderseite. Ich soll nun das M1A stricken über 26 M. und danach 4 li. 3re 3x + 4 li. 2 re + Kr. = 27 Doch 27 + 26 = 53, dass passt ja nicht bei 47 M. Was muss ich in M1A Stricken? Ich hab es mit dem Diagramm versucht, aber das verstehe ich nicht.

17.02.2022 - 12:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brina, in L stricken Sie so: die 26 Maschen in M.1A, dann *4 li, 3 re*, x 2 (7x2 = 14 M Rippenmuster) + 4 li + 2 re, + 1 Randmasche = 26+14+4+2+1=47 Maschen. Dann stricken Sie M.1B über die Maschen M.1A (= 26 Maschen) , dh immer 47 Maschen; oder misverstehe ich vielleicht Ihre Frage?

17.02.2022 - 13:39

country flag Shel wrote:

Hello again! For the front band a couple of questions please: 1) what does it mean to pick up "161 sts (DIVISIBLE BY 6+5)" ? I'm making size Large. 2) is it 161 stitches altogether (right AND left sides) or 161 each side? I tried picking up 161 on the left side but could only find about half that number to pick up - and they are quite close together. Thank you.

19.10.2021 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shel, the number of stitches given for the bands should be picked up from the middle of the neck on the back, through the bottom edge. Once for the left side once for the right side. Of course if it feels too much, you can use less stitches, but the number should be a number that could be divisible by 6 plus 5. Happy Stitching!

20.10.2021 - 02:32

country flag Debbie wrote:

Front band. To make band wider? Inc 1 sts in each p section on every 38 sts ? So when I have 3 pearl stiches I would increase 1 sts or 3 sts, on every 38 sts? I would like to know is it 1 or 3 inc in the pearl section,don’t understand the directions. So then I will not have 167 sts I will have around 15 sts more,correct.

02.07.2021 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, for the bands, you start out with picking up 149-155-161-167-173-179 stitches, then when you get to 4 cm, mark out 32-32-32-38-38-38 stitches from mid back, and then do the increases in the purl stitches of these marked out stitches. Happy Stitching!

03.07.2021 - 06:42

country flag Debbie wrote:

Right front piece. On size xl what are the 26 sts p4/k3 times 3=21 sts then p4,k2 and 1 edge st =7 so 21 sts +7=28 how to knit the 26 sts ?

03.05.2021 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Debbie, if you mean the set up row, the 26 stitch is not all that is in the row, but it is M.1A pattern (wich is on 26 stitch), and then *p4 /k3- 3 times, , p4, k2, and the edges stitch in one row (26 + 21 stitch = 47 stitch for size XL, wich you cast on to beginn with.) Happy knitting!

03.05.2021 - 23:39

country flag Shel wrote:

Hi, just started the back piece. It says "continue in rib as follows (first row= RS" followed by rib pattern. My question- for WS is the pattern followed exactly the same or are the stitches reversed i.e. knit for purl and purl for knit? Thanks!

09.04.2021 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Shel, you start the back with ribbing, so from the WS you knit what looks like a knit stitch (that was knit as a purl from the other side), and purl the stitches that look like purls (that were knitted in the previous row, from the RS. Happy Knitting!

09.04.2021 - 19:04

country flag Chris wrote:

Me again.. On the front sides, when you get to 37 stitches (for XXL), the instructions say 'continue with K over K' etc.. Does that mean you don't continue with the pattern? Thanks.

13.01.2019 - 22:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, work the sts as before, with cables towards the neck. Happy knitting!

14.01.2019 - 12:33

country flag Chris wrote:

I did not intend that my full name should appear in my question - everyone else only has their first name shown - would you please revise my name to Chris or delete my question as soon as possible.

04.01.2019 - 21:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Chris, your question (and the answer) has been updated. Happy knitting!

07.01.2019 - 09:21