DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Jane Austen

Knitted DROPS jumper in stocking st with hood and crochet borders in 1 thread ”Paris” or 2 threads “Alpaca. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 120-1
DROPS design: Pattern no W-386

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 30, jeans blue
50 g for all sizes, colour no 17, off-white
Or use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour no 6347, dark steel blue
50 g for all sizes, colour no 0100, eco off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st with 1 thread Paris or 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 3.5 mm – for garter st.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm – for crochet borders.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.75 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 54.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
MEASUREMENT TIP:
Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements whilst the garment is hanging, otherwise it will be too long when worn.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 204-216-232-248-264-284 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 thread jeans blue Paris or 2 threads dark steel blue Alpaca. Work 2 rounds GARTER ST – see above – and continue in stocking st on all sts. See MEASUREMENT TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 36 cm for all sizes change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 at the beg of round and 1 after 102-108-116-124-132-142 sts. Now work 14 rounds garter st, AT THE SAME TIME work first round as follows: 11-14-18-22-28-33 garter sts, K2 tog across the round until 11-14-18-22-28-33 sts remain before first marker, 22-28-36-44-56-66 garter sts, K2 tog across the round until 11-14-18-22-28-33 sts remain before second marker, and garter st on the remaining 11-14-18-22-28-33 sts = 124-136-152-168-188-208 sts. After 14 rounds in garter st, change back to needle size 5 mm and work 1 round stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 12 sts evenly for all sizes after approx every 9-10-11-12-14-16 sts (make sure to inc 6 sts each side of both markers) = 136-148-164-180-200-220 sts. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm work next round as follows: 31-34-38-42-47-52 stocking sts, 6 garter sts, turn and now continue back and forth on needle, work 6 GARTER STS – see above, stocking st on remaining sts, and cast on 6 new sts towards mid front = 142-154-170-186-206-226 sts. Continue in stocking st with 6 garter sts each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on next row cast off 6 sts for armhole each side (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and complete each piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 34-37-41-45-50-55 sts. Continue to cast off for armhole at the beg of every row from the side: 2 sts 1-2-3-4-6-8 times and 1 st 1-1-2-3-4-4 times = 31-32-33-34-34-35 sts. When piece measures 58-60-61-63-64-66 cm (adjust so that last row is from WS) slip the 6 garter sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Now cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 5-6-6-6-6-7 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time = 15-15-16-17-17-17 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. NOTE! make sure last row before neckline is from WS as on left front piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-76-84-94-104 sts. Cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 56-58-60-62-62-64 sts. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm cast of the middle 24-26-26-26-26-28 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 15-15-16-17-17-17 sts. Cast off when piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.

HOOD:
Pick up 64-68-71-71-78-78 sts (includes sts on stitch holders) on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 thread jeans blue Paris or 2 threads dark steel blue Alpaca. Work 4 rows garter st back and forth on circular needle and work next row from RS as follows: 6 garter sts, stocking st on the next 20-22-23-23-26-26 sts, * 1 YO, 1 stocking st *, repeat from *-* a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 times, finish with 20-22-23-23-26-26 stocking sts and 6 garter sts = 76-80-84-84-92-92 sts. P YO into back of loop on return row. Continue in stocking st with 6 garter sts each side. Cast off when piece measures 34-34-35-35-36-36 cm. Place hood double and sew tog at the top.

SLEEVES:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 42-44-46-48-50-50 sts on double pointed needles size 5 mm with 1 thread jeans blue Paris or 2 threads dark steel blue Alpaca. Work 2 rounds garter st. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue in stocking st. When piece measures 6 cm inc 1 st each side of marker. Repeat the inc on every 4-2.5-2.5-2-1.5-1 cm a total of 6-8-9-10-12-14 times = 54-60-64-68-74-78 sts. When piece measures 30-29-29-28-27-25 cm (NOTE! less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker) and complete sleeve back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, 1 st 3-5-6-7-7-9 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 38-38-39-39-40-40 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side and cast off remaining sts. Set in sleeves.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border along bottom edge of jumper with crochet hook size 4 mm and 1 thread off-white Paris or 2 threads eco off-white Alpaca as follows: 1 dc, * 4 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip 2 cm, 1 dc *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first dc. Crochet a similar border round sleeve edges, round the hood and along split. Fasten right side of split behind the left side with 1 small st.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (206)

country flag Carol wrote:

Guten Abend Ich hänge bei der Kapuze fest. Ich verstehe nicht ganz, wie ich die 71 Maschen verteilt aufnehmen muss (Grösse L). Ich habe 12 M von den Hilfsnadeln, 26 M abgenommen am Rückenteil. Je 11 M pro Vorderteilseite PLUS noch die je 2 cm um auf die Totalhöhe zu kommen. Wie muss ich die 71 M aufnehmen? Danke und lG

04.08.2023 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carol, dann fassen Sie ca 5/6 Maschen auf diese 2 cm, dh beidseitig zwischen den abgketteten Maschen vorne am Hals über Schulter bis die 26 M vom Hals am Rückenteil; so haben Sie: 6+11+5+26+6+11+6=71 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.08.2023 - 09:27

country flag Margret wrote:

Hallo,hab ich nach den 36 cm nach der 1.Krauripperunde mit den Abnahmen wirklich nur noch 136 M(bei Gr.M) auf der Nadel,ist das nicht viel zu eng??

25.03.2023 - 19:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Margret, so haben Sie 80 cm Umfang für die Taille (siehe Maßskizze), es wird dann für den Brust zugenommen. Viel spaß beim stricken!

27.03.2023 - 09:13

country flag Nancy Villiard wrote:

"répartir 12 augmentation toutes les 11 m. Veiller à augmenter 6m. De chaque côtés de chacun des 2 marqueurs" Je dois augmenter 6 mailles en plus des 12 augmentation ou les 6 sont elles comprises dans les 12 augmentation ? Merci

06.02.2023 - 03:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Villiard, la formulation doit être modifiée effectivement, vous devez augmenter 12 mailles au total, en augmentant après environ chaque 11ème maille (en taille L) - et en veillant à bien augmenter autant de mailles de chaque côté des marqueurs pour que ces augmentations soient bien réparties (= 6 pour le devant et 6 pour le dos). Bon tricot!

06.02.2023 - 10:24

country flag Nathalie De Failly wrote:

Bonjour, pour la capuche, s’agit il d’une seule augmentation au milieu dos de la capuche, tous les 2 rangs. ? Merci d’avance pour la réponse ! Nathalie

13.04.2021 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, pour la vapuche, on n'augmente qu'une seule fois 12, 13 ou 14 mailles selon la taille et on tricote la capuche sur les 76-80-84-84-92-92 mailles obtenues sans plus augmenter, en jersey avec 6 mailles point mousse de chaque côté jusqu'à ce qu'elle mesure 34-34-35-35-36-36 cm de hauteur totale. Bon tricot!

14.04.2021 - 07:27

country flag Nathalie De Failly wrote:

Après 36 cm, je suis le modèle M et ne tombe pas sur le même nb de mailles. 7 en plus. Il faut tricoter au point mousse et les diminutions à l’endroit ? Pour la suite, faut il continuer en alternant point mousse et pont endroit . Je suis perdue . Merci pour votre aide .

06.04.2021 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme De Failly, vous tricotez 14 tours point mousse (7 côtes mousse - voir cette vidéo), au 1er de ces tours (un tour en mailles endroit), tricotez: 14-m point mousse, tricotez les m suivantes ens 2 par 2 à l'endroit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 14m avant le 1er marqueur, 28 m point mousse, tricotez les m suivantes ens 2 par 2 à l'endroit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 14m avant le 2ème marqueur, et point mousse sur les 14- dernières m = 136 m. Bon tricot!

07.04.2021 - 07:13

country flag Inger wrote:

Jeg strikker denne opskrift i str xl og er nået til hvor arbejdet måler 48 cm. I opskriften står der, at jeg nu skal strikke 42 masker i glatstrik, 6 masker retstrik og så vende arbejdet og strikke tilbage igen. Men de 6 masker der skal slås op. ?. Skal de slås op lige efter jeg har vendt arbejdet og har strikke de 6 masker retstrik ? Vh Inger

31.01.2021 - 11:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inger, du strikker 42 masker glatstrik, 6 masker retstrik (= de 6 midterste masker foran), vender, 6 masker retstrik, hele vejen rundt til den anden side i glatstrik og slår 6 masker op sidst på pinden (som skal ligge bagved de første 6 masker retstrik du strikkede). God fornøjelse!

03.02.2021 - 14:39

country flag Ari wrote:

Sind Ihre Produktbilder geschützt?? Ich möchte darauf hinweisen, dass genau dieses Foto in einem Onlineshop namens silkbers zu finden ist, wo der Pullover (angeblich) verkauft wird. Der Produktname auf silkbers ist "Hellblau Lässig V-Ausschnitt Strickpullover". Es scheint ein illegaler Shop zu sein, wenn man das Impressum betrachtet... Nur falls Sie das weiter verfolgen möchten, vielleicht findet sich noch mehr Bildmaterial von Ihnen in diesem Shop. LG, Ari

12.01.2021 - 23:37

country flag Doris wrote:

Wenn ich bei der Armkugel die Abnahmen mache und dann zum Schluss immer 2 Maschen abkette bis ich bei 39 cm bin, habe ich aber weit mehr Maschen als nur noch 6. Was habe ich da falsch verstanden?

03.10.2020 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, wenn die Ärmel 39 cm misst, sind es mehr Maschen als 6 übrig, aber am Anfang der 2 nächsten Reihen ketten Sie jetzt 3 Maschen und dann bei der nächsten Hinreihe ketten Sie alle Maschen ab. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.10.2020 - 10:07

country flag Doris Litz wrote:

Hallo, ich noch mal. Fehler gefunden, nur 1 M abketten, nicht 17!! 17 sollen dann übrig bleiben und das stimmt dann auch. Wer lesen Kann ... Danke noch einmal für die tolle Anleitung Lg Doris Lietz

23.07.2020 - 12:50

country flag Doris Lietz wrote:

Hallo Ihr Lieben, Ich bin vorne bis zu den Schultern gut klar gekommen. Es bleibt nach Abnahme des Ausschnittes aber nur 1 Mache übrig. Wie soll ich mit 1 Mache bis 74 cm weiter hochstricken? 35 M, wenn der Armausschnitt fertig ist -6 stillgelegte -7, -4, -17 = 1 Masche? Ich mache erst einmal hinten weiter, vielleicht kommt noch eine Erleuchtung. Ich freue mich auf ihre Antwort, denn es ist ein schönes Stück, jetzt schon Lg Doris Lietz

23.07.2020 - 12:40

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, Sie dürfen zuletzt nicht 17 Maschen abnehmen, sondern nur 1 Masche, denn 17 ist die Angabe der restlichen Maschen auf der Nadel! Also 35 -6 -7 -4 -1 = 17 Maschen übrig. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

24.07.2020 - 10:20