DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS jacket knitted from side to side in garter st in ”Fabel”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 113-8
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 912, soft chocolate

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS dark Buffalo horn buttons no 535: 5-5-5-5-6-6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K2 tog and cast on 1 new st on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures – from bottom edge:
SIZE S: 10, 17, 24, 31 and 39 cm.
SIZE M: 10, 17, 24, 32 and 40 cm.
SIZE L: 10, 17, 25, 33 and 41 cm.
SIZE XL: 10, 18, 26, 34 and 42 cm.
SIZE XXL: 9, 15, 22, 29, 36 and 43 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 9, 16, 23, 30, 37 and 44 cm.
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RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked from the side towards mid front, back and forth on circular needle. NOTE: make all measurements from cast on row. READ ALL OF THIS SECTION BEFORE KNITTING IT! Cast on 31-34-36-38-41-43 sts on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. K 1 row from WS. Insert a marker in 2nd st at the right side of piece (as seen from RS). Row 1 = WS. Work garter st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 (= RS) inc 1 st on each side of st with marker, and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 53-58-62-67-74-82 times – inc by making 1 YO, K YO on return row. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 cast on new sts at the left side of piece (as seen from RS) as follows:
on every 6th row: 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-3 times, then
on every 4th row: 2 sts 1-2-3-4-6-8 times, then
on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-4-4-5 times, then cast on 40-38-38-33-31-26 sts 1 time.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 4 inc 1 st at the right side of piece (as seen from RS) and repeat the inc on every 8 row a total of 16 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-20-22-23-26-28 cm cast on 14-14-14-17-17-17 new sts for collar at the left side of piece (as seen from RS). When these sts have been cast on continue with shortened rows as follows (row 1 = WS): * 4 rows on all sts, 2 rows on the top 60-64-66-68-70-72 sts on the left side of piece (as seen from RS) *, repeat from *-*. REMEMBER INCREASES! When piece measures 22-24-26-28-31-34 cm – increases on each side of st with marker are now complete – slip sts to the left of st with marker + st with marker (= 143-153-161-174-186-199 sts) on a stitch holder. Insert a new marker in piece. Now work next row on sts on the right side of piece as follows: *K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2. Continue in garter st on all sts – continue inc on the right side of piece = 70-75-79-84-91-99 sts left on row when inc are complete. When piece measures 10-9-8-7-5-3 cm from marker cast off these 70-75-79-84-91-99 sts sts. Pick up 24-22-20-16-12-7 sts towards mid front and slip sts from stitch holder back on needle = 167-175-181-190-198-206 sts. Now work all sts (no shortened rows) for front band. K 1 row from WS, and work next row as follows from RS and bottom edge: K 24-22-20-16-12-7 sts, * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2. Continue in garter st. When front band measures 2 cm make BUTTONHOLES – see above – and cast off when front band measures 4 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but without buttonholes. Assemble left front piece with WS out (i.e. mirrored).

LEFT BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from side towards mid back. NOTE: make all measurements from cast on row. READ ALL OF THIS SECTION BEFORE KNITTING IT! Cast on 31-34-36-38-41-43 sts on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Insert a marker in the 2nd st on the right side of piece (as seen from RS). Row 1 = WS. Work garter st on all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 (= RS) inc 1 st on each side of st with marker, and repeat the inc on every other row a total of 53-58-62-67-74-82 times – inc by making 1 YO, K YO on next row. AT THE SAME TIME on row 2 cast on new sts at the left side of piece (as seen from RS) as follows:
on every 6th row: 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-3 times, then
on every 4th row: 2 sts 1-2-3-4-6-8 times, then
on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-4-4-5 times, then cast on 40-38-38-33-31-26 sts 1 time.
AT THE SAME TIME on row 4 inc 1 st at the right side of piece (as seen from RS) and repeat the inc on every 8 row a total of 16 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 18-20-22-23-26-28 cm cast off 4 sts on the left side of piece (as seen from RS). When piece measures 22-24-26-28-31-34 cm – increases on each side of st with marker are now complete – cast off 125-135-143-153-165-178 sts on the left side of piece (as seen from RS). Insert a new marker in piece. Work next row as follows on remaining sts: * K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2. Continue in garter st on all sts – continue inc on the right side of piece = 70-75-79-84-91-99 sts when inc are complete. Cast off when piece measures 10-9-8-7-5-3 cm from marker.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
Like left back piece. Assemble right back piece with the WS out, i.e. mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 58-60-62-64-66-70 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm with Fabel. Work garter st. When piece measures 10 cm continue in reverse stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 3-2.5-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 12-14-16-18-21-21 times = 82-88-94-100-108-112 sts. When piece measures 47-47-46-46-45-43 cm – less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – cast off for sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 4-4-5-5-5-6 times, 1 st 3-4-4-6-7-9 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56-57 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 55-56-56-57-57-58 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew back pieces tog mid back. Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seam inside 1 edge st. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew on buttons.


Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (83)

country flag Deraeve Monique wrote:

Bestaat er een filmpje om mitered trui te breien

24.01.2020 - 09:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Monique,

Er zijn wel instructievideo's van diverse steken die gebruikt worden in dit patroon, maar er is niet een video over hoe je deze trui breit van begin tot einde. Laat even weten waar je niet uit komt, dan kunnen we je wellicht helpen.

26.01.2020 - 15:03

country flag Juana Ortiz wrote:

Porque no hacen vídeos con el paso a paso de las prendas este modelo me encanta pero no creo que pueda hacerlo así solo con esas intrusiones. Muchas gracias

05.09.2019 - 21:24

country flag Diane Vanek wrote:

I am not a beginner knitter and I'm finding this pattern very confusing. The whole AT THE SAME TIME is boggling my mind. Is there any version of this pattern that lays it out row by row or at least with the rows listed where changes need to be made and what those changes per row are exactly?

20.08.2018 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Diane, We are sorry, but there are no other versions available for this pattern.

21.08.2018 - 07:12

country flag Michaela Drozd wrote:

Hallo, ich habe die 153 Maschen auf die Hilfsnadel gelegt, wieviel Maschen müssen auf der rechten Nadel übrigbleiben, mit denen man weiter stricken muss. Ich bin mir im Moment nicht sicher ob ich alle Zunahmen richtig gemacht habe. Gruß Michaela

20.11.2017 - 06:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Michaela, wenn Sie 153 M auf der linken Seite des Markierungsfadens + die M. mit dem Markierungsfaden haben, dann soll es alles klappen. Wenn alle Zunahmen fertig sind, sollen Sie 75 M haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.11.2017 - 10:05

country flag Sheila Richardson wrote:

Question on the short row instructions for 113-8 The short row instructions: - if row 1 is the WS, then I would cast on the collar stitches, knit WS row in garter stitch, then knit RS row in garter, repeat for two rows, then knit a short row on the wrong side, then knit another short row on the right side, then repeat with the full rows x4 and short rows x2 until the piece reaches the next length measure?

18.07.2016 - 04:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Richardson, sts for collar are inc/cast on at the end of a row from RS (right front piece), then start short rows from WS so that the 2 short rows are worked over the sts for collar (left side seen from RS) and not on the right side (from RS). Happy knitting!

18.07.2016 - 09:41

country flag Sheila Richardson wrote:

Hi there - great design! Instructions say to repeat the YO-K-YO increase 62 times on every other row - by my calculations this takes me to row 124 - which is where I should cast on the new stitches for the collar and start the short rows. The line after the short row instructions says : REMEMBER INCREASES! And further instructions after short row instructions imply I continue the increases?

18.07.2016 - 04:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Richardson, when you are working the short rows, remember to continue inc as before with a YO on each side of the st with marker. Happy knitting!

18.07.2016 - 09:38

country flag Joanne Sherek wrote:

Drops 113-8. I do not understand the increase row on the return. On RS work inc on each side of marker. That is ok but, the return row, "inc by making 1 YO, K, YO." Is this on every row? Where do I make this increase? Over the inc from the row before? I am really confused.

02.07.2016 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sherek, from RS you inc 1 st on each side of the st with marker with YO, K the st with marker, YO - from WS work all sts. Then continue inc on each side of the st with the marker with a YO on every other row (= every row from RS) - then K YO on next row. Happy knitting!

04.07.2016 - 10:34

country flag Gerda Kristensen wrote:

Skal omslagende ved udtagene strikkes drejet ret ? Hvis ikke bliver der jo et hul, skal der være det? M.v.h. Gerda

05.05.2016 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gerda, Ja vi har strikket ret så der bliver et lille hul, men du vælger selv om du vil gøre hullet mindre ved at strikke drejet ret. God fornøjelse!

06.05.2016 - 10:08

country flag Nana Wood wrote:

Jeg er i tvivl om udtagningerne på hø forstykke, venstre side. Der står 2 masker på hver 6. pind 1-2-2-2-2-3 gange, er det ialt 12 gange x 2 masker eller er det 2 masker x 1 eller 2(ialt 4) masker på samme pind, jeg er forvirret.

12.01.2015 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nana. Nej, hvis du f.eks. strikker str S, saa tager du 2 masker ud 1 gang i alt. Numrene er per störrelse

12.01.2015 - 16:09

country flag Claudia wrote:

Eine sehr schöne Jacke, die ich gerne anziehe. Die Anleitung hört sich kompliziert an, aber wenn man einfach anfängt, erklärt sich alles und dann ist es ganz einfach. Die Arbeit hat sich gelohnt!

14.05.2014 - 12:43