DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Morning Light

Knitted DROPS Tunic with lace border on neckline in ”Bomull-Lin”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 112-1
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour no 03, linen

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.75£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

LACE BORDER:
Right neckline:
ROW 1 (RS): K3, 1 double YO, P1, K3.
ROW 2 (WS): K5, K1 into back of loop, K3.
ROW 3: Cast off 2 sts (= 1 st left on right needle), K2, P1, 1 double YO, K2 tog into back of loop, K1 into back of loop.
ROW 4: K2, K1 in first YO, slip the other YO off needle, K4.
Left neckline:
ROW 1 (WS) = K3, 1 double YO, K4.
ROW 2 (RS): K3, P1, K1, K1 into back of loop, K3.
ROW 3: Cast off 2 sts (= 1 st left on needle), K3, 1 double YO, K2 tog into back of loop, K1 into back of loop.
ROW 4: K3 (slip the second YO), P1, K3.

DECREASING TIP (neckline):
Make all dec from RS.
Dec as follows after lace pattern: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows before lace pattern: K2 tog.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 176-188-204-220-244-260 sts on circular needle size 5 mm with Bomull-Lin. Work 4 rounds garter st – see above – and continue in stocking st. Insert 8 markers in piece with approx 22-23-25-27-30-32 sts between each marker. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 5 cm dec 1 st to the right and to the left alternately of all markers on every 8 cm a total of 5 times (= 8 dec per round) = 136-148-164-180-204-220 sts.
When piece measures 38 cm continue in garter st. Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 at beg of round and 1 after 68-74-82-90-102-110 sts (to mark the sides).
When piece measures 44 cm continue as follows, beg after the first marker: 32-35-39-43-49-53 stocking sts, LACE PATTERN – see above - on the next 7 sts (work row 1 for right neckline), 129-141-157-173-197-213 stocking sts, cast on/pick up 4 new sts behind right neckline = 140-152-168-184-208-224 sts.
Turn piece and now continue back and forth on needle. Work next row as follows from WS: Lace pattern on the first 7 sts (work row 1 for left neckline), stocking st on the next 126-138-154-170-194-210 sts, Lace pattern on the last 7 sts (work row 2 for right neckline). NOTE! Number of sts on row will vary because of the lace pattern. If counting the sts, always count after a full 4 row repeat of the pattern. When piece measures 51-52-53-54-55-56 cm cast off 3 sts on each side of both markers at the sides and complete each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-76-84-96-104 sts. Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-1-2-3-5-6 times and 1 st 0-0-1-2-3-4 times = 62-64-66-68-70-72 sts. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm work garter st on the middle 30-30-32-34-34-36 sts, work remaining sts in stocking st. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm cast off the middle 14-14-16-18-18-20 sts for neck and cast off 1 st on neckline on next row = 23-24-24-24-25-25 sts left on each shoulder. Continue in stocking st with 7 garter sts towards neckline. Cast off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: = 33-36-40-44-50-54 sts. Cast off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 33-34-35-36-37-38 sts. Continue in stocking st with Lace pattern on neckline, AT THE SAME TIME dec to shape the neckline inside Lace pattern on every 1.5 cm a total of 10-10-11-12-12-13 times – SEE DECREASING TIP = 23-24-24-24-25-25 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 50-52-54-54-56-58 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with Bomull-Lin. Work 10 rows garter st and then continue in stocking st. When piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st each side on every 9-6.5-4.5-3.5-2.5-2 cm a total of 4-5-6-8-10-11 times = 58-62-66-70-76-80 sts. When piece measures 34-33-33-33-31-30 cm (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) cast off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-3-3-4-4 times, 1 st 0-1-2-3-3-5 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 40-40-41-42-42-43 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts on next row. Piece measures approx 41-41-42-43-43-44 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sews shoulder seams. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve seams.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.02.2009
Right neckline:
ROW 3: Cast off 2 sts (= 1 st left on right needle), K2, P1, 1 double YO, K2 tog into back of loop, K1 into back of loop.
Left neckline:
ROW 3: Cast off 2 sts (= 1 st left on needle), K3, 1 double YO, K2 tog into back of loop.
Updated online: 12.06.2009
When piece measures 44 cm continue as follows, beg after the first marker: 32-35-39-43-49-53 stocking sts, LACE PATTERN – see above - on the next 7 sts (work row 1 for right neckline), 129-141-157-173-197-213 stocking sts, ....
Updated online: 30.07.2014
under LACE BORDER and Left neckline (K1 into back of loop was missing):
ROW 3: Cast off 2 sts (= 1 st left on needle), K3, 1 double YO, K2 tog into back of loop, K1 into back of loop.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (180)

country flag Sharon Hunt-Edwards wrote:

Hi, I have completed row 1 WS and row 2 WS of the neckline. The is now row mentioned her so am assuming it’s part of row 2. Am not sure 🤔 what to do here. Am I supposed to turn so the right side is facing me to work row 3?

18.03.2024 - 07:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt-Edwards, now turn and work the right side the right neckline = row 3 at the beg of the row and end with row 2 = left neckline, then turn and work from wrong side the row 3 of left neckline and end with row 4 of right neckline and so on. On right neckline every row from RS is an odd numbered row and on left neckline every row from RS is an even numbered row. Happy knitting!

18.03.2024 - 15:05

country flag Sharon Hunt-Edwards wrote:

Hello, have now gotton the 214 sts on the needle. Am i understanding correctly that the lace pattern is done ONLY on the extra sts that are at the end of the needles? If so I don’t understand how it is attached all around the sweater. Am so afraid to mess this up and taking it out again. Thanks 🙏 for explaining this.

15.03.2024 - 07:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt-Edwards, that's right, the lace pattern is only worked on each side of work, ie for the edge along neckline, work as explained under LACE BORDER, following right/left neckline and matching row from RS/WS. Happy knitting!

15.03.2024 - 09:33

country flag Sharon Hunt- Edwards wrote:

Yes thr last to explantion helps. You guys are the best. Am so happy now. Thank you.

11.03.2024 - 17:19

country flag Sharon Hunt-Edwards wrote:

Thanks for asking. Am asking about the dividing row the right and left front is going to overlapp. Seems so from a earlier response that i never saw before I posted my last question. Please confirm any way

11.03.2024 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt-Edwards, when working the dividing row you first work the 1st row of the right edge over the 7 stitches to start the right edge/right front piece (when garment is worn), ie K3, double YO, P1, K3, then work the whole round ending with casting on 4 new stitches, turn, work the row 1 on left edge (= K3, double YO, K4), work in stocking stitch until the sts on right front piece remain and work row 2 on right edge (= K5, K 1 twisted, K3). Can this help?

11.03.2024 - 16:03

country flag Sharon Hunt- Edwards wrote:

Hello, i just counted from start on my project. When I count i ended up yo the right of the row 1 of the lace pattern. Is this correct. Am sure it is but I wanted to make sure before I proceed. Thank you.

11.03.2024 - 06:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt-Edwards, not sure to understand properly what you mean here sorry, can you tell us more? Which row do you have an issue with?Thanks for your comprehension!

11.03.2024 - 14:25

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Am so sorry 😢 but this isn’t working out for me. I have a marker at the start of the round and 1 at 110 sts. I did the lace pattern on the first 7 and last 7 sts but the stitch count for me is incorrect. St. Count is 218 and am suppose to have 224 but the is on 218. I ripped back counted all the sts on the needle on have a stitch count of 220 as stated before lace pattern. Am working on the back and largest size.

09.03.2024 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, when you inserted the markers you should have 220 stitches. Now you displace the beginning of the round from the mid under the sleeve to the center of the neck by working 53 stitches in stocking stitch. Work the right neckline stitches, then work 213 stitches in stocking stitch, which should get you back to the right neckline stitches and pick up 4 stitches over the right neckline stitches (= 224 stitches). Now you will turn and start working the lace edge over the 2 necklines (so you work 7 lace edge stitches + 210 stocking stitch + 7 lace edge stitches.). There may be a slight misalignment because of starting the lace edge in the right neckline earlier. Happy knitting!

10.03.2024 - 23:50

country flag Sharon Hunt wrote:

Dear Drops am not understanding the instructions for the lace pattern. Am I supposed to repeat row 1 of the lace pattern between the markers 1st marker at begynning of round and 2. marker at 110. This will then be 214 when completed?

08.03.2024 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, only work lace over the first and last 7 stitches on row. Work only one side (half) of the lace pattern on 1st round to create a border on the right side of the neckline. At the end of this 1st round, cast on 4 new stitches after the lace edge to create the overlap (point) of the neckline in the middle of the front piece. Then work back and forth and the lace pattern will be the first and last 7 stitches on the row. Just note that the pattern order is different at the beginning and end of the row! (The pattern is offset because it was started 1 row earlier on the right side. ) Happy knitting!

09.03.2024 - 10:50

country flag Sharon Hunt-Edwards wrote:

Hello, thanks for the respond so far. I have 260 sts as stated in the pattern , but 4 sts left after all markers er placed. Is this correct?

04.03.2024 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt-Edwards, you should have approx. 32 sts between each marker, but as 260 is not divisible by 32 you will have sometimes 33 sts instead between each markers, ie 32-33-32-33-32-33-32-33 = 260 sts/8 markers. Happy knitting!

04.03.2024 - 10:06

country flag Sharon Hunt-Edwards wrote:

What does it mean to knit alternately as instructed below. When piece measures 5 cm dec 1 st to the right and to the left alternately of all markers After setting up 7 markers 32 sts apart I have 5 sts left. Am I doing something wrong? I have 260 sts as stated in the pattern. Thanks for your response to my previous question. Sharon

03.03.2024 - 20:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, alternately means that you will decrease at the right or left of each marker, not always on the same side. The first time you decrease you decrease at the right side of all markers. Then, 8cm later, decrease at the left side of all markers. 8cm later, decrease at the right side again. Continue in the same way. This will help correctly shape the garment. Happy knitting!

03.03.2024 - 23:41

country flag Sharon HuntEdwards wrote:

Hello Drops! I have awuestion about the instruction in the pattern below: When piece measures 5 cm / 2’’ dec 1 st to the right and to the left alternately of all markers on …. Do I decrease on when piece measured 5 cm and there after 8 cm per rest of instruction. Thanks for responding.

02.03.2024 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharon, you increase at the 5cm mark and, counting from here, every 8cm. So it would be 8cm from the 5cm mark or 13cm from the very beginning. Happy knitting!

03.03.2024 - 20:07