DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

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Knitted DROPS Jacket in moss st with cables in ”Silke-Alpaca”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 108-52
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour no 9015, grey

DROPS double pointed and pointed needles size 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in moss st = 10 x 10 cm. NB! Make sure you do not knit too loosely.
DROPS Metal button, no 542: 3 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Moss st:
Row 1: * P1, K1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K.
Repeat row 2.
Pattern: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS.
Work M.1 as follows: Work 1 row in M.1 (= RS). Work row 2, but turn piece when 1 or 2 sts remain – see Knitting tip-1. Work row 3 in M.1. Work row 4, but turn piece when 1 or 2 sts remain. Continue in M.1 until there are 2 sts left.
Work M.2 as follows: Work the first 2 rows in M.2 (row 1 = WS). Work row 3, at the end of row work 1 st back into pattern – see Knitting tip-2. Work row 4. Work row 5, at the end of row work 2 sts back into pattern. Continue in M.2 until all sts have been worked back into pattern.
Knitting tip-1: Every time you turn mid piece, tighten thread to avoid a hole.
Knitting tip-2: To avoid holes when sts are worked back into pattern, work first st from right needle and first st from left needle (i.e. the st worked back into pattern) tog as follows: P through both sts, leave st on needle, K into back of loop of both sts (= 2 sts).
Buttonholes: Cast off for buttonholes on right front piece. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
Size S: 20, 28 and 36 cm.
Size M: 21, 29 and 37 cm.
Size L: 22, 30 and 38 cm.
Size XL: 23, 31 and 39 cm.
Size XXL: 24, 32 and 40 cm.
Size XXXL: 25, 33 and 41 cm.
Decreasing tip, applies to neckline:
Make all dec from the RS as follows:
Before 23 sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
After 23 sts: K2 tog.
Increasing tip, applies to neckline:
Make all inc from the RS as follows:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in 1 st, work inc sts in moss st.

Back piece: Cast on 90-98-104-112-124-134 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with 2 threads Silke-Alpaca. P 1 row from WS and continue with 1 thread in moss st – see above. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 10 cm dec 1 st each side on every 3-3.5-3.5-4-5-5 cm a total of 7 times = 76-84-90-98-110-120 sts. When piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm cast off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-3-4-4-6 times and 1 st 2-3-3-4-6-6 times = 62-64-66-68-70-72 sts. When piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm cast off the middle 16-16-18-20-22-24 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 22-23-23-23-23-23 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm.
Left front piece: Work 2 sts towards mid front (the last 2 of the 8 moss sts) with 2 threads throughout. Use a separate ball and let it follow the piece. Cast on 48-53-56-60-66-71 sts with Silke-Alpaca on needle size 4.5 mm. Work first row from RS as follows: 25-30-33-37-43-48 moss sts, P1, K6, P1, K6, P1, 8 moss sts. Now continue – from WS – with shortened rows as follows (continue in moss sts and K over P): 2 rows on the first 13 sts, 2 rows on the first 25-26-27-28-29-30 sts, 2 rows on the first 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts and 3 rows on all sts. Now continue in M.1 (first row = RS). See Pattern and Knitting tips! See start arrow for your size! After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 (= 2 sts on needle) continue in M.2. See Pattern and Knitting tips! After 1 vertical repeat of M.2 – see arrow for your size – there are 48-53-56-60-66-71 sts on needle. Continue with cables and moss st on all 48-53-56-60-66-71 sts (now work all sts on every row without turns). When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm (measured from B in measurement chart) inc 1 st after the 8 sts towards mid front and dec 1 st after 23 sts from mid front – see Decreasing and Increasing tips! I.e. number of sts remain the same but no of sts before the cable inc and no of sts after the cable dec. Dec and inc on the same row on every 2-2-2-1.5-1.5-1.5 cm a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times. At the same time when piece measures 41-42-43-44-45-46 cm cast off for armhole at side as described for back piece = 41-43-44-45-46-47 sts. When piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm dec 4 sts on the cable (work the 13 sts on cable as follows: K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, P1, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog) = 37-39-40-41-42-43 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm cast off the outermost 22-23-23-23-23-23 sts for shoulder and continue on the remaining 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts for collar with shortened rows as follows: * work 2 rows on all sts, work 2 rows on 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts towards mid front only *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm (measured where shortest) from shoulder. Cast off.
Right front piece: Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember to cast off for buttonholes – see above. Mirrored pattern: Cast on 48-53-56-60-66-71 sts with Silke-Alpaca on needle size 4.5 mm. Work shortened rows – in the following pattern, as seen from the RS : 8 moss sts, P1,K 6, P1,K 6, P1, 25-30-33-37-43-48 moss sts – as follows – from RS: 2 rows on the first 13 sts, 2 rows on the first 25-26-27-28-29-30 sts, 2 rows on the first 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts, and 4 rows on all sts. Then continue in M.1, but mirrored, i.e. beg at the left side of diagram and work the turns at the end of row from RS.
Sleeves: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 41-41-43-45-45-47 sts on needle size 4.5 mm with 1 thread Silke-Alpaca. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) at beg of round. P 1 round and continue in moss st. When piece measures 10 cm continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 1 st on each side of MT on every 4-3.5-3.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 9-10-11-13-15-16 times = 59-61-65-71-75-79 sts. When piece measures 48-47-47-46-45-44 cm – less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder - cast off 3 sts on each side of MT and complete piece back and forth on needle. Cast off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 1-2-3-4-6-8 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 55-55-56-56-57-58 cm, now cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 56-56-57-57-58-59 cm.
Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew side seam inside 1 edge st. Sew collar tog mid back and sew to neckline. Sew on buttons

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.10.2008
New chart M.2. One row was missing.
The chart online is now updated and corrected.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = casting on row (= side of jacket)
symbols = bottom edge of jacket
symbols = turn here before end of row
symbols = front band
symbols = work sts back in pattern
symbols = continue jacket
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag SILVIA BARBERA wrote:

Hola estoy tejiendo este modelo pero no entiendo el Tip 2 me podrían explicar. Desde ya muchas gracias!!!

07.09.2023 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Silvia, quiere decir: se trabajan el primer punto en la aguja izquierda (el que estamos trabajando) y el 1º punto en la aguja derecha (el que acabamos de trabajar). Se trabajan estos 2 puntos juntos de revés y después, sin deslizar este punto, se trabaja 2 puntos juntos de derecho (sacando 2 puntos de los mismos 2 puntos).

10.09.2023 - 19:30

country flag Sylke Wildenhain wrote:

Ich möchte dieses Modell gerne aus dem Garn 'Soft Tweed' stricken. Wieviel würde ich dafür in Größe XL benötigen und müsste ich es evtl. in einer größeren Größe stricken, um auf die selben Maße zu kommen? Danke für eure Hilfe!

17.05.2022 - 10:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Wildenhain, diese Jacke wurde mit einem Garn der Garngruppe C (= Silke Alpaca) gestrickt, Soft Tweed gehört der Garngruppe B und wird hier keine Alternative dafür sein - aber wenn Sie Soft Tweed mit Kid-Silk zusammen stricken, können Sie mal schauen, ob Sie die richtigen Maschenprobe bekommen, und ob Ihnen diese neue Textur Ihnen gefallen wird. Siehe Beispiel hier. Gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail damit weiterhelfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.05.2022 - 14:19

country flag Birgitte Hollerup wrote:

Hej. Jeg kan ikke finde ud af mønster 1 , hvordan man ender med 2 masker, når der står i strikketips-1, man skal stramme tråden. Og ej heller mønster 2. Jeg kan ikke finde en video, det ville være smart. Håber i kan hjælpe, God weekend

01.11.2020 - 09:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, det er når du strikker vendepinde ifølge opskriften som du strammer tråden og det gør du lige når du vender midt på en pind. Slå det antal masker op i din størrelse som står i opskriften og strik hver pind som beskrevet. Først når du har strikket 3 pinde over alle masker fortsætte du med M.1. God fornøjelse!

05.11.2020 - 12:23

country flag Joli Caillou wrote:

Bonjour, j’adore ce modèle mais je n’ai pas obtenu de proposition en utilisant le convertisseur. Pensez vous que je puisse obtenir un bon résultat avec Karisma ou puna ? Merci pour vos modèles et tout et tout...

17.02.2019 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

La laine original etat du groupe de fils C. Le convertisseur nos donne les alternatives suivantes (j;ai pris la taille S, donc 800 g de laine a remplacer): 640g DROPS Nepal (1 fil), 640g DROPS Big Merino (1 fil), 576g DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk (2 fils), 576g DROPS Alpaca (2 fils). Vous pouvez bien sur utiliser chaque laine du du groupe de fils C. Puna et Karisma sont toutes les deux du groupe B. Bon travail!

18.02.2019 - 07:56

country flag Marie Foulon wrote:

Dos : En taille M, monter 88 mailles (donc moins que pour la taille S?) et diminuer 7 fois 2 mailles. Ça ne peut pas donner 84 mailles ? Pouvez-vous m'expliquer, j'ai peur de me lancer.... merci

18.12.2018 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Foulon, il faut monter 98 m en taille M - la correction a été faite, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!

19.12.2018 - 09:02

Maree English wrote:

Thanks so much for your quick reply. I understand about the cable set up, but aren't there moss rows before I start on M.1?

24.05.2018 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs English, no there are no moss st row before starting set up row and M.1 - the cast on edge will be sewn along the side of back piece (from bottom edge to armholes), just start working 1 row from RS as explained then work M.1. Happy knitting!

24.05.2018 - 10:04

Maree English wrote:

I love the design, I hope I can knit it. For the left front piece, the instructions read ***Work first row from RS as follows: 25-30-33-37-43-48 moss sts, P1, K6, P1, K6, P1, 8 moss sts*** Why knit the P1, K6, P1, K6? It doesn't seem to follow the pattern in any way. Also, are we meant to purl a first row for the left and front pieces like the back before we start the moss pattern?

24.05.2018 - 07:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs English, these (P1, K6, P1, K6, P1) are for the cable worked at the end of row - as shown in M.1. On front piece you cast on the sts and work in pattern from 1st row from RS (= do not start with P1 from WS as for back piece). Happy knitting!

24.05.2018 - 09:52

country flag Silke wrote:

Strickt man die Seiten C und E zusammen während man M2 strickt oder näht man sie hinterher zusammen, wenn das komplette Vorderteil fertig ist?

22.02.2015 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Sie stricken die Vorderteile mit verkürzten R. Die C/E-Kante ist die Stelle, an der die verkürzten R enden bzw. wo anschließend wieder die M, die bei der verkürzten R nicht gestrickt wurden, weitergestrickt werden. Sie müssen also an dieser Stelle nichts zusammennähen. Im Verlauf des Strickens wird Ihnen sicherlich klar, wie es gemeint ist. Zu den Grundlagen für verkürzte R können Sie sich übrigens bei Bedarf ein Video anschauen, unter "Videos" im Kopf neben dem Foto.

22.02.2015 - 23:49

country flag DROPS Design wrote:

1. yes, the 3 last rows are worked completely as normal rows over all sts. 2. there was a row missing in the chart. chart is updated. thank you!

03.10.2008 - 19:42

country flag Leslie Campos wrote:

Hello.. I need some help!!! 1. Where says "Now continue – from WS – with shortened rows as follows (continue in moss sts and K over P): 2 rows on the first 13 sts, 2 rows on the first 25-26-27-28-29-30 sts, 2 rows on the first 37-39-41-43-45-47 sts and 3 rows on all sts." Are those 3 last rows worked completely as normal rows not shortened? 2. Is a row missing in the second graphic(M2) after the M size finishes?

02.10.2008 - 13:05