DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Blue Moon

Knitted circular jacket in DROPS Silke Alpaca or DROPS Air, with texture pattern Size: S – XXXL

DROPS 102-6
Size: S - M/L - XL /XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS Silke Alpaca from Garnstudio
1200-1300-1450-1600 g colour no 4305, grey blue
Or use: DROPS Air from Garnstudio
600-650-700-750 g colour no 09, navy blue


DROPS circular needles size 4.5 mm (80 cm): 2 pcs –
or the needle size needed to obtain correct knitting tension

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Pattern: See diagram M.1. Diagrams are seen from RS. NOTE: Each size has own diagram.

Short rows: Work short rows to ensure circular shape of piece, as follows:
1st / 2nd row: Knit 102-112-124-140 sts, turn piece and knit back.
3rd / 4th row: Knit back and forth over 18-16-20-20 first sts on row (these sts = outermost on circle) – read knitting tip 1 below.
Repeat 1st to 4th rows, but reduce stitch number by 2 sts on every 1st/2nd row before turning piece – repeat this 10-10-12-12 times in total, then reduce sts number knitted by 4 sts before piece is turned – repeat this 6-9-8-12 times in total and
from this point reduce sts number by 8 sts before piece is turned – repeat 5-5-6-6 times in total.
Remaining are 18-16-20-20 outermost sts of circle.
Start again from beginning over all sts.
– read Knitting tip 2 below.

Knitting tip 1: When turning piece slip the first st as if to knit and tighten yarn before continuing knitting. This is done to avoid holes when turning. This does not applies to innermost 20-20-24-24 sts of circle – when piece is turned knit all sts as normal.

Knitting tip 2: On row where all sts are knit, P 20-20-24-24 innermost sts in circle (seen from RS). Then continue as before with chart M.1.

Measuring tip: All measurements on circle are done with piece lying flat. Do not measure across! Measurements follow curve to 63rd - 69th -73rd - 81st sts.

Circle:
Knit piece back and forth on needle to make room for all sts. Cast on 102-112-124-140 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Silke Alpaca or Air. Insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker after 63-69-73-81 sts, make all measurements from this point. Knit chart M.1 (see diagram for your size) from right to left (i.e. from outside towards inside on circle) 1st row = RS. At the same time as chart M.1 knit Short rows – see explanation above – to make circular shape. When piece measures 37-40-49-57 cm from marking thread or stitch marker – read measuring tip – knit armholes.
Armhole: Slip outermost 63-69-73-81 sts onto an extra needle size 4.5 mm (circular needle to make room for all sts). Continuing, cast off next 2 sts (= armhole). Insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker between 2 cast off sts. Leave remaining sts on needle. Continuing, knit 2 parts (sts before and after armhole) separately, but knit them at the same time on separate needles with separate balls of yarn. This is done so the short rows are correct on both sides of armhole. Continue with pattern and short rows as earlier.
When armhole measures 18-21-23-25 cm cast on 2 new sts over armhole(i.e. between the 2 parts). Continuing, slip all sts onto one needle again = 102-112-124-140 sts. Insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker after 63-69-73-81 sts. Continuing, measure piece from this point.
Now knit chart M.1 and short rows on all sts. Continue like this until piece measures approx 15-17-19-21 cm, this should be a ½ circle. Continue until piece measures approx 30-34-38-42 cm from marking thread – read measuring tip. Now make armholes in same way. When all sts are back on one needle again insert 1 marking thread or stitch marker after 63-69-73-81 sts. Continue measuring from here. Continue with M.1 and short rows until piece measures approx 37-40-49-57 cm from marking thread or stitch markers (adjust to 1 whole pattern repeat with short rows). Cast off loosely.

Sleeve:
Knit piece back and forth on circular needles. Cast on 56-59-65-68 sts (incl 1 front edge sts on each side) on needles size 4.5 mm with Silke Alpaca or Air. P1 row from WS. Continue with Rib K2/P1 and 1 edge sts on each side. When Rib measures 13-13-14-14 cm K 1 row from WS at the same time dec 10-11-13-14 sts evenly = 46-48-52-54 sts. Continue in stocking sts with WS out until complete measurement. When piece measures 16 cm inc 1 sts on each side on every 9 -4.5 -3.5 -3 cm 5-9-11-13 times in total = 56-66-74-80 sts. When piece measures 56 cm cast off top shape sleeve top on each side on every other row: 4 sts 1-2-2-2 times. Continuing, cast off 2 sts on each side until piece measures approx 61-62-62-63 cm. Then cast off 4 sts 1 time on each side. Piece measures approx 62-63-63-64 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly:
Sew circle tog in outermost edge of cast on sts and cast off edge. Sew in sleeves so seams under sleeve meet at middle of marking thread or stitch marker placed at bottom of armhole and middle of sleeve top meet marking thread or stitch marker placed on top of armhole. Sew sleeve seams.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = outermost on circle
symbols = innermost of circle
symbols = marking thread is placed here
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 102-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (236)

country flag Iris wrote:

Hello! I wanted to confirm something about the pattern. You have written that the first armhole should be started when the piece measures 37cm from the 63rd stitch of the first row to the 63rd stitch on the needle following the curve (on the smallest size). Is this right? It seems like 37cm is very long. What's the circumference of the piece following the 63rd stitch around? I'm knitting this for my sister as a graduation present so I want to make sure I have it right! Thank you!

20.07.2023 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Iris, the radius of the circumference is indicated in the pattern measurements: 50 cm. The diameter would approx. be 100cm. The width between the armholes (width of the back) would be 30 cm. 37 cm would be between the cast-on edge at the bottom of the piece up to the beginning of the armhole (so it would be 37 cm in the curve perimeter of the circle). So the total perimeter would be: 70 cm on half a circle and 70 cm on the other half. Happy knitting!

23.07.2023 - 19:06

country flag Ellie wrote:

Hi, i was talking about the 16st we knit at the start of the row, do we have to knit that at the end of the row or is the short row in the middle of the row? thanks

09.09.2020 - 11:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellie, the 2 rows over the 16 sts (row 3 and 4 in M.1, size M/L) are worked over the first 16 sts = extra short rows, they come extra to those explain in the text. This means, every time you repeat the row 1 and 2 in M.1 you will work them over 2 sts first then 8 sts - see "Short rows" at the beg. of the pattenr. Happy knitting!

09.09.2020 - 15:14

country flag Ellie wrote:

Hi, i am trying to do this pattern. so we don't knit short rows at the other end? and decreasing the sts is it ok to do the normal dec st? thanks

08.09.2020 - 05:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellie, not sure to understand properly what you mean here. You are working the short rows over all stitches, this means you will work less stitches on every row from RS (from WS work the same number of sts worked from RS), this means the number of sts not worked at the end of row from RS will by and by increase (= middle of circle), and the beg of row from RS are towards outside edge of circle. Happy knitting!

08.09.2020 - 10:34

country flag Murielle Kingsbury wrote:

Je trouve ce modele absolument super. mais j'ai des difficultes a lire les instructions. je suis tres visuelle. est-ce possible d,avoir des videos specifiques a ce modele ou tout autre video qui pourrait m'aider. dans l'attente d'une aide quelquonque , un gros merci a l'avance.

20.05.2020 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kingsbury, Vous allez tricoter pour le dos/les devants de la veste un cercle mais dans le sens du rayon, donc avec des rangs raccourcis pour avoir la bonne forme. Vous tricotez en suivant le diagramme M.1 mais en même temps, tricotez les rangs raccourcis, pour les emmanchures, vous allez crocheter les 2 parties (avant/après l'emmanchure) en même temps (pour garder le rythme des rangs raccourcis) mais avec 2 pelotes différentes (pour créer la fente de l'emmanchure). Pour toute assistance individuelle complémentaire, n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

22.05.2020 - 09:02

country flag Ghada Gamil wrote:

In the sleeves I do not understand tge meaning of dec 10-11-13-14 sts evenly and also continue in stocking sts with ws out What do you men by evenly? and out ?

07.02.2020 - 15:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gamil, after the rib you have to decrease the number of stitches to avoid the sleeves to be too wide when working reversed stocking stitch. Read more here how to decrease evenly. Then you continue working in reversed stocking stitch, ie the knit stitches should be WS and the purl stitches should be RS. Happy knitting!

07.02.2020 - 15:54

country flag Anita wrote:

I am trying to understand the directions and can not make sens of it. We should go from 112 sts (medium size) to 16 sts, and start again from begining, but nowhere does the direction say cast on again, or add sts or you end up with 12 pieces and graft is together. I am very frustrated, read the directions in two different languages and still can not make sens of it. Short raws will not add up to be a circle thats only the outer edge.

15.01.2020 - 01:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anita, you first work 2 rows over all stitches (= 112 stitches), then work 2 rows over the first 12 stitches, and continue repeating these 4 rows, but when you work the first 2 rows, work some stitches less every time (you need short rows to get the wide of the outer circle), so next time you work: 2 rows over 112 sts - 2 sts = 110 sts, next time you work row 1/2 you work 110-2 = 108 sts, then 106 sts, then 104 sts etc.. (2 sts less 10 times in total), then work 4 sts less instead of 2, then work 8 sts less instead of 2 then 4, until only the 16 sts from the outer circle remains on needle. Happy knitting!

15.01.2020 - 09:35

country flag Tove Janka Lunden wrote:

Hvor finnes disse diagrammene til hver str??....

09.01.2020 - 18:07

country flag Natty wrote:

I’m trying to use the yarn converter but need the thread count/number, can’t find it anywhere, can you help please?

20.10.2019 - 10:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Natty, read more about our yarn converter here - you are working here either with 1 strand Silke Alpaca or 1 strand Air. Happy knitting!

21.10.2019 - 10:24

country flag Ivonne wrote:

Hallo! Kann ich diese Jacke auch mit Big Merino stricken? Danke!

15.05.2019 - 22:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ivonne, Big Merino gehört auch der Garngruppe C – aber bitte beachten, daß Garne mit unterschiedlichen Strukturen auch unterschiedlich aussehen. Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen gerne weiter helfen, die beste Alternative zu finden - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Mehr über Big Merino lesen Sie unter die Farbkarte und- siehe Garnpflegetipp für Merino. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.05.2019 - 09:35

country flag Jane Curley wrote:

The pattern says 'for Air' then quotes amount for Silke Apaca..states that is unavailable but in alternatives it does not mention 'Air'...which yarns are suitable please.

08.04.2019 - 11:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Curley, this pattern was originally requiring 1200-1300-1450-1600 g DROPS Silke Alpaca, and we suggest now DROPS Air: 600-650-700-750 g. Happy knitting!

08.04.2019 - 12:06