DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Venetian Romance

DROPS shrug knitted in bobble and lace pattern with “Silke-Alpaca”. Size S - XXL

DROPS 101-6
Size: S – M - L – XL – XXL

Materials: DROPS Silke-Alpaca from Garnstudio
350-400-400-450-500 g colour no. 7120, light grey green

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 4.5 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Silke Alpaca
DROPS Silke Alpaca
80% Wool, 20% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows on needles size 4.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: P 4-0-2-4-0, K3,*P3, K3*, repeat from *-* over the following 48-54-54-54-66 sts, P 6-3-3-4-2 sts, K 0-2-4-4-0 sts, P 0-3-3-4-0 sts *K3, P3*, repeat from *-* over the following 48-54-54-54-66 sts, K3, P 4-0-2-4-0 sts

Bobble: 1st row: Knit 3 sts into 1 st, turn. Now knit a total of 6 rows over these 3 sts - do not knit the other sts – as follows: 2nd row: P2, 1 yo, P1. 3rd row: Purl. 4th row: Knit. 5th row: Purl. 6th row: Knit the sts tog. 2 by 2 and pass the first st over the second sts (1 st left).

The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Dec and Increasing tip: When Dec/Inc in the P parts do not Dec/Inc in the outer most 3 sts each side.
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SHRUG
Because of the number of sts knit the piece back and forth on circular needles. Cast on 116-122-128-134-140 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Silke-Alpaca. Knit Rib – see above. When the piece measures 4 cm knit as follows from the RS: P3, M.1, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.2, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.1, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.3, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.4, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.5, P 8-9-10-11-12, M.4, P3. When the piece measures 11-11-13-13-13 cm cast off 2 sts each side = 112-118-124-130-136 sts. At the same time when the piece measures 11-11-13-13-13 and 21-21-23-23-23 cm dec. 1 st each side each P part ( = 12 dec. each row) – read Dec and Increasing tips = 88-94-100-106-112 sts. When the piece measures 41-41-48-48-48 and 51-51-58-58-58 cm inc. 1 st each side each P part = 12 inc. each row) – read dec and Increasing tips = 112-118-124-130-136 sts. At the same time when the piece measures 51-51-58-58-58 cm cast on 2 new sts each side and P new sts (seen from the RS) = 116-122-128-134-140 sts. When the piece measures approx. 58-58-67-67-67 cm (adjust to a hole repeat vertically) knit 4 cm of Rib – see explanation above. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P, the piece measures approx. 62-62-71-71-71 cm

Assembly:
Bend the piece double along the long side (Rib against Rib) and sew the outer most 11-11-13-13-13 cm tog – the remaining opening = arm hole. Pick up approx. 66 – 78 sts (divisible with 6) on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Knit round. Knit Rib with K3 and P3 until the Rib measures 4 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P. Repeat for the other armhole.

Diagram

symbols = K from the RS, P from the WS
symbols = P from the RS, K from the WS
symbols = Bobble: See explanation in pattern above
symbols = Double yo, on returning row work only 1 yo and drop the other
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (53)

country flag Marie wrote:

I'm having difficulty with the graph. Although it shows 20 rows are these the right side rows and there are wrong side rows not show in the graph. In other words are the graph rows odd numbers and the wrong side rows would be even. Many thanks

23.02.2022 - 23:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Marie, the diagram shows all the rows in the pattern, start from RS (all odd numbered rows will be worked from RS) and read from the bottom up and right towards left; and work the WS rows (all even numbered rows will be worked from WS) reading from the left towards the right. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

24.02.2022 - 10:31

country flag Katarina Ammitzbøll wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke forklaringen til at begynde med, Er det bare rib af 3 var. Og 3 ret? Jeg vil bare strikke vesten glat uden bobler og huller, og så syntes jeg forklaringen er utrolig kompliceret , Kan det udtrykkes mere enkelt?

11.07.2020 - 21:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Katarina. Vi har ikke mulighet til å omskrive oppskriften og siden skulderstykket både har bobler og hullmønster, kan den virke litt komplisert, men lang fra uoverkommelig. Det er ikke bare 6 rett- 6 vrang i begynnelsen, men følg forklaringe til Vrbord i den størrelsen du skal strikke. Om du ønsker en enklere oppskrift, kan du søke på Bolero og se på utvalget vi har. God Fornøyelse!

13.07.2020 - 12:55

country flag M. Perlee wrote:

Mijn moeder probeert model 101-6 te breien, maar loop tegen het volgende probleem:Volgens de gegevens zou ik 112 steken moeten opzetten en daarmee de boord breien. Daarna breien volgens de telpatronen: 3 av, M 1 = 3 st. + 8 av. - M2 = 12 st. + 8 av. – M1 = 3 st. + 8 av – M3 = 26 st. + 8 av - M4 = 3 st. – 8 av - M5 = 12 st. + 8av - M4 = 3 st. – 3 av. Totaal 116 st. Wat doe ze fout?

01.04.2015 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Waar hebt u 112 st vandaan? In het patroon staat: Zet 116-122-128-134-140 st op met rondbreinld 4.5 mm en Silke-Alpaca. Als u bijvoorbeeld maat S hebt gekozen, dan klopt 116 st precies.

02.04.2015 - 09:37

country flag Ruth wrote:

I also love the shrug. In the instructions what do you mean by "(adjust to a hole repeat vertically)"?

13.03.2015 - 21:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, adjust to a whole repetition of M2/M3/M5. Happy knitting!

17.03.2015 - 08:50

Irene wrote:

3rd row in M4 work: K1, double YO, slip 1, K1, psso, K1. on 4th row in M4 work: P1, work first YO purlwise and drop the 2nd YO, P1.

24.07.2014 - 06:31

Irene wrote:

Hi, As I am working on M.4. 1st row: work only P1 yo and drop the other. Am I right? How can I work on 2nd, 3rd and 4th row for M.4? Good day!

20.07.2014 - 12:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Irene, on 1st row in M4 work: double YO, slip 1, K1, psso, K1 (M4 = 3 sts), on 2nd row, P2, work first YO purlwise and drop the 2nd yo (= 3 sts). Happy knitting!

23.07.2014 - 09:08

country flag Diane wrote:

After you complete the ribbing at the start of the pattern, do you always Purl the 8 stitches in between the chart instructions for the both Right side and wrong side of this pattern.

11.06.2014 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Diane, the P8 worked between each diagram are worked P from RS and K from WS (reverse stockinette). Happy knitting!

12.06.2014 - 08:39

country flag Antje wrote:

Hallo, Ich habe diese Anleitung gefunden und finde sie wunderschön. Allerdings ist diese hier angegebene Wolle nicht mehr verfügbar. Welche Wolle wäre eine Alternative? Wäre die Drops Alpaka eine Alternative - wenn ja einfädig oder zweifädig? Danke für die Rückinfo. Viele Grüße Antje

09.02.2014 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antje, Sie finden eine ganze Reihe von Alternativen unter dem Stichwort "GARNALTERNATIVEN" in dem grauen Balken neben dem Foto.

10.02.2014 - 09:36

Andrea wrote:

I love this shrug! Although i would like to make it with a little bit longer sleeve. Is this possible by modifying the number of stiches dec and inc? Thank you in advance :)

26.01.2014 - 12:02

country flag Susy wrote:

Is there a mistake in the first row of the instructions, after ribbing? The stitches should add to 116 (I'm knitting the small) and they only add to 112, as a result you end up with 4 stitches left. I'm taking care of the problem by P9 instead of P8 four times symmetrically along the row but please rectify. It could save time to someone else. It took me precious time to realize that it wasn't me making a mistake. Thnx

06.01.2014 - 20:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Suzy, no of sts match to pattern, in size S you work : P3, M.1 (= 3 sts), P 8, M.2 (=12 sts), P 8, M.1 (=3 sts), P 8, M.3 (=26 sts), P 8, M.4 (=3 sts), P 8, M.5 (= 12 sts), P 8, M.4 (=3 sts), P3 = 116 sts - You then cast off 2 sts each side = 116 - 4 = 112 sts. Happy knitting!

07.01.2014 - 09:25