DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 101-12
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Note: In this pattern, each size of the cardigan will look different compared to the picture. The cardigan on the picture is a size M.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
300-300-350-400-450 g colour no. 6347, blue lilac
DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 3 mm or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.

DROPS silver buttons, no. 534: 6 pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 23 sts x 36 rows on needles size 3 mm in pattern sts = 10 x 10 cm .

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.7. The diagrams are seen from the RS.

Garter sts back and forth: Knit on all rows

Front band: Knit 7 front band sts each side mid front as follows (seen from the RS): 1 garter st, K1, P2, K1, P2. Continue with K over K and P over P until finished. Note! For best results knit the front band a bit tight.

Button holes: Cast off for button holes at the right front band: 1 button hole = P the 3rd and 4 st from edge tog. and make a yo.
Cast off for button holes when the piece measures:
Size S: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41 and 47 cm
Size M: 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 48 cm
Size L: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43 and 49 cm
Size XL: 12, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 50 cm
Size XXL: 13, 21, 29, 37, 45 and 51 cm
___________________________________________________________________

Back and front piece:
Knit the cardigan back and forth on circular needle from the mid front.
Cast on loosely 275-295-315-355-395 sts (incl of 7 front band each side mid front) on circular needles size 3 mm. Purl 1 row from the WS.
Continue as follows: 7 front band sts – see explanation above M.1A (= 11 sts), M.1B over the next 240-260-280-320-360 sts, M.1C (=10sts), 7 front band sts – see explanation above. After M.1 is completed there are 249-267-285-321-357 sts left.
Continue as follows: 7 front band sts, M.2A (=10 sts), M.2B over the next 216-234-252-288-324 sts, M.2C (=9 sts), 7 front band sts.
Remember button holes on the right front band – see explanation above. After M.2 is completed there are 197-211-225-253-281 sts left.
Continue with M.3 and M.4 as follows: Purl 1 row from the WS according to diagram and then from the RS as follows: Front band as before A (=7 sts), B over the next 168-182-196-224-252 sts, C (= 8 sts) and front band as before. On the last row of M.4 inc. 2 sts for size M, evenly distributed = 197-213-225-253-281 sts.
Continue to knit M.5 as follows: Purl 1 row from the WS according to diagram and then continue from the RS as follows: Front band as before M.5A (=3 sts), M.5B until 11 sts remaining, M.5C (= 4 sts) and front band as before. After M.5 is completed the piece measures approx. 12 cm. Knit M.6 1 vertical repeat – at the same time on the 1st row inc. evenly distributed number of sts to = 203-217-231-259-287 sts. After M.6 is completed knit M.5 for 3 vertical repeats – at the same time on the 1st row adjust the number of sts to 205-217-233-261-289 sts. Continue to knit M.3 again – at the same time on the 1st row inc. evenly distributed number of sts to = 211-225-239-267-295 sts. Knit M.3 for 3 vertical repeats and then finish with M.4 – on the last row of M.4 cast off for armholes as follows: Knit 51-55-58-65-72 sts (=front piece), cast off 10 sts for the arm hole, knit 89-95-103-117-131 sts (=back piece), cast off 10 sts for the armhole, knit 51-55-58-65-72 sts (=front piece). The piece measures approx. 38 cm.
Put work aside and knit the sleeves

Sleeve:
Knit sleeves round on double pointed needles. Cast on loosely 80-80-80-100-100 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Alpaca and purl 1 row. Continue to knit M.1B = 72-72-72-90-90 sts. Continue with M.2B, after M.2B is completed there are 56-56-56-70-70 sts left. Continue with M.3B and M.4B – at the same time on the last row inc. 2 sts for size XL and XXL evenly distributed = 72-72 sts. Continue with M.5B. After M.5 is completed the piece measures approx. 12 cm.
Please read all of the following section before knitting it!
Knit M.6 for 2 vertical repeats, then M.5 and then M.3 for four vertical repeats, finish with M.4. At the same time when the piece measures 12-12-12-14-14 cm inc. 2 sts mid underneath the sleeve on every 3-2.5-2-3-2.5 cm a total of 11-13-16-10-12 times = 78-82-88-92-96 sts – knit new sts in stocking sts. On the last row of M.4 cast off 10 sts mid underneath the sleeve = 68-72-78-82-86 sts. The sleeve measures approx. 45 cm. Put work aside and knit another sleeve.

Yoke:
Put the sleeve onto the same circular needle as the back and front piece – where cast off for armholes = 327-349-375-411-447 sts. Cut the thread and begin to knit from the mid right front side. K the 1st row from the RS (front band as before) at the same time adjust the number of sts to 321-337-369-401-445 sts (do not dec. in the front bands). Continue to knit M.5 as follows: Purl 1 row from the WS according to diagram and continue from the RS as follows: Front band as before, M.5A (= 3 sts), M.5B until 11 sts left, M.5C (=4 sts) and front band as before. After M.5 is completed knit and dec. according M.7 (knit front band as before) – at the same time on the 1st row adjust the number of sts to 318-334-366-398-446 sts.

Neck shaping:
When the back and front piece measures approx. 48-49-50-51-52 cm put 14 sts at the mid front each side on a thread or a stitch holder for shaping of the neck. Continue to cast off 1 st each side towards the neck on every other row until finish – make sure the pattern will not be displaced and knit sts not divisible into M.7 in stocking sts. When M.7 is completed approx. 60 – 90 sts are left. Knit in stocking sts until the piece measure 57-58-59-60-61 cm to the shoulder – at the same time on the last row dec. number of sts evenly distributed to 54-67-60-63-66 sts.

Neck edge:
Pick up approx. 30-42 sts each side of the neck (incl. the sts from the thread or the stitch holder) = approx. 114 to 150 sts (number should be divisible with 3). Knit 5 rows of Rib = K1, P2 with the front band as before. Cast off loosely with K over K and P over P.

Assembly:
Sew the opening underneath the sleeves. Sew on the buttons. To make sure the cardigan sits nicely - steam it well.

Diagram

symbols = K from the RS, P from the WS
symbols = Make a yo
symbols = K2 tog.
symbols = Slip a st as if to knit, K1, psso.
symbols = Slip a st as if to knit, K2 tog. psso.
symbols = K2 tog.
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Ariadna Rodriguez wrote:

Hola! Empezaré a tejer la prenda pero tengo una duda con la simbología, en el M7 se tejen dos puntos juntos derechos, pero en el resto de los gráficos también se tejen dos puntos juntos derechos pero con una simbolo diferente. Hay alguna diferencia entre esos dos símbolos o se hace exactamente lo mismo?

09.09.2022 - 23:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ariadna, se trabajan igual, pero los triángulos negros indican que se están trabajando disminuciones de puntos, mientras que las rayas implican que son para el dibujo de calados.

12.09.2022 - 23:14

country flag Nina wrote:

Jag ska börja på diagram M3B på ärmen men förstår inte hur jag ska sticka första varvet på rätsidan. Hur ska jag göra med hoptagningen som hamnar på två stickor?

09.01.2021 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nina. Om det er 2 masker som skal strikkes sammen, kan du fint bare løfte over 1 maske til neste pinne og så strikke de sammen. mvh DROPS design

18.01.2021 - 12:45

country flag Jo Dubbs wrote:

You gauge this pattern at 23 sts x 36 rows in pattern sts - exactly which pattern sts? There are 7 different patterns in these directions.

15.07.2019 - 07:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jo Dubbs, make your gauge in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

15.07.2019 - 08:25

country flag Agneta Sjöberg wrote:

Förstår inte hur jag gör på varv 8 på M7. Visar ingenstans hur jag maskar av med trekanten. Hur gör jag?

26.10.2016 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Agneta. Det er sidste symbol i forklaringen: 2 rm tills

27.10.2016 - 09:57

country flag Ilona wrote:

Hallo, leider verstehe ich nicht wie die Aermel gestrickt werden. Es steht da man soll 80 Machen anschlagen und eine Reihe links stricken. Weiter steht dann man soll das Muster M1B stricken = 72 Maschen... Meine Frage ist wo sind die 8 Maschen geblieben? Danach gehts mit Muster M2B weiter und dier sind es dann nur noch 56 Maschen. Vielen Dank im voraus fuer die Hilfe!

31.08.2016 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ilona, M.1B is über 20 M gestrickt, aber nach M.1B gestrickt ist, bleiben nur 18 M übrig, dh wenn Sie 4 x M.1B stricken, stricken Sie über 80 Maschen aber es sind jetzt 72 M übrig ( 2 Abnahmen x 4 M.1B = 8 M abegnommen). Das gleiche betrifft M.2B, dh Sie werden auch im Diagram abnehmen.

01.09.2016 - 10:18

country flag Ellis M. wrote:

Hallo, Waarom worden er 2 verschillende tekens gebruikt voor 1 en hetzelfde ding? Bij de tekenverklaring staat een schuin streepje over 2 steken én ong. hetzelfde maar dan is de obderste helft zwart ingevuld. Beide verklaringen: 2 r samenbreien. Moet dit niet op 2 verschillende manieren gedaan worden? Vr.gr. ellis

09.05.2016 - 17:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Ellis. Dit is correct. Beide zijn 2 st r samenbreien, maar de ene teken hoort bij het kantpatroon (samen met een omslag) en de andere hoort bij het minderen bij de pas.

10.05.2016 - 11:08

country flag Natalia Bigorra wrote:

Hola! No entiendo bien como tejer el grafico M2 ya que cuando lo he terminado de tejer se me han aumentado muchos puntos Podriais indicarme porfavor como se hace? Gracias

13.11.2015 - 09:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Natalia, si te fijas en el diagrama para cada aumento hay una disminución. Recomendamos marcar con MP (maracapuntos) cada repetición del patrón de 18 pts para controlar que el nº de pts no varía.

15.11.2015 - 10:32

country flag Mieke Brandt Hessels wrote:

Ik had het vest eerst op nld. Nr 3 gebreid, maar toen was het vest veel te klein, ik heb hem weer uitgehaald en met nld nr 3,5 gebreid, toen was het wel goed. Groetjes, Mieke.

06.09.2015 - 16:29

country flag Christa wrote:

Rückenteil: Nach M1, M2, M3, M4, M5 soll die Arbeit 12 cm messen. Wie soll das funktionieren, wenn schon die Maschenprobe (M3) 10cm misst?

03.01.2015 - 08:01

country flag Christa wrote:

Rückenteil: Nach M1, M2, M3, M4, M5 soll die Arbeit 12 cm messen. Wie soll das funktionieren, wenn schon die Maschenprobe (M3) 10cm misst?

03.01.2015 - 08:01