DROPS Big Bouclé
DROPS Big Bouclé
60% Wool, 40% Acrylic
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 67-19
COAT:

Sizes: S - M - L
Finished measurements:
Bust: 96-108-116 cm
Hem: 136-148-156 cm

Materials: DROPS BIG BOUCLÉ,
60% wool, 40% acrylic, 50 g./50 m
1100-1200-1350 g. col. no. 07, grey.

DROPS 6 mm needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Big Bouclé
DROPS Big Bouclé
60% Wool, 40% Acrylic
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
COAT:

Gauge: 10 sts x 17 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Note: On account of the length and weight of the garment it will be approx. 10 cm longer when hanging or worn. All measurements on the schematic diagram and in the instructions are for when the garment is lying flat.

Right Front: Cast on 39-42-44 sts. Knit 2 rows garter st, then knit stockinette st, but keep 1 st at the side and 4 sts at the front edge in garter st throughout. When the piece measures 20-20-20 cm dec 1 st at the side 10-10-10 times every 7.5-8-8 cm = 29-32-34 sts. When the piece measures 94-96-97 cm bind off for armhole at the side every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 3-5-6 times = 24-25-26 sts. When the piece measures 109-112-114 cm bind off 4-4-4 sts at front edge for neck. Bind off at neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 time and 1 st 2-2-2 times = 13-14-15 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 115-118-120 cm.

Left Front: Cast on and knit the same as the right reversing all shaping.

Back: Cast on 70-76-80 sts. Knit 2 rows garter st, then knit stockinette st, keeping 1 st at each side in garter st throughout. When the piece measures 20 cm dec at each side as on front = 50-56-60 sts. When the piece measures 94-96-97 cm bind off for armholes at each side as on front = 40-42-44 sts. When the piece measures 115-118-120 cm, bind off all sts - the center 14-14-14 sts = neck opening.

Sleeve: Cast on 30-32-32 sts. Knit 2 rows garter st, then knit stockinette st, keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st throughout. When the piece measures 10-10-10 cm inc 1 st at each side: 5-5-6 times every 8-8-6 cm = 40-42-44 sts. When the piece measures 48-46-45 cm bind off at each side for sleeve cap every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2 times, 1 st 2-4-5 times and then 2 sts at each side until sleeves measures 55-55-55 cm, bind off.

Hood: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx. 40 sts around the neck. Knit stockinette st with 4 sts garter st at each side. After 2 rows increase evenly distributed to approx. 60 sts. Knit until hood measures approx. 36 cm. Put half the sts on a separate needle, fold the hood in half and Kitchener st the two sides together.

Assembly: Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. Use a brooch to close coat if desired.

FINGERLESS GLOVES IN ALPACA:

Sizes: Women’s Medium

Materials: Garnstudio ALPACA
100 g. col. no. 501, light grey

DROPS 3 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 24 sts x 30 rows in rib = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: * K 2, P 2 *. Repeat from * - *.

Glove: Cast on 80 sts; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib over all sts. When the piece measures 24 cm dec 20 sts evenly distributed on the row = 60 sts. Measure the piece from here. Start rib over. When the piece measures 2 cm put a marker between 2 P sts at one side. Inc 1 st at each side of this marker for thumb gusset every other row 6 times = 14 sts increased (the increased sts are knit in rib as you go along). Put these 14 sts + 1 st each side = 16 sts on a st holder. Cast on 2 new sts behind them and join work = 60 sts. When the piece measures 11 cm knit the next row as follows: 2 sts over gusset, 21 sts, put 13 sts on a st holder for little finger, cast on 1 new st; join and knit the remaining 24 sts. Knit 4 rows rib over these 48 sts. Put the 3 new sts and 16 sts each side of them on a st holder.

Index finger: There are 13 sts on needles, inc 3 sts and join = 16 sts. Knit 2 rows rib, bind off.

Middle finger: Knit 8 sts from underside of the hand, cast on 1 new st, knit 8 sts from upper side of hand, inc 3 sts at index finger and join = 20 sts. Knit 2 rows rib, bind off.

Ring finger: Knit 8 sts from the underside of the hand, inc 1 new st, knit 8 sts from the upper side of the hand, inc 3 sts at the center finger and join = 20 sts. Knit 2 rows rib, bind off.

Little finger: Knit the 13 sts from the st holder, inc 3 sts at the ring finger and join = 16 sts. Knit 2 rows rib, bind off.

Thumb: Knit 16 sts from st holder, inc 4 sts in sts behind gusset = 20 sts. Knit 5 rows rib, bind off.

Make a second glove, reversing all shaping.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 67-19

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Mi Andrén wrote:

Då "Big Boucle" har utgått har jag köpt "Alpaca Boucle" istället. Köpte 24 nystan men verkar få 18 nystan över. Vad blev fel?

09.04.2023 - 09:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mi, hvis du bruger vores garnomregner, så kan du se at du skal bruge 857 g DROPS Alpaca Boucle som du skal lægge dobbelt, så du strikker med 2 tråde.

13.04.2023 - 14:56

country flag Karen Dewillers wrote:

How do I make this pattern for 2xl size?

24.10.2021 - 15:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Karen, please understand that we cannot modify our patterns for each individual request. If you want to make a similar, but bigger piece, you will have to make a gauge swatch and recalculate the stitch and rownumbers. Happy Stitching!

24.10.2021 - 17:48

country flag Kirsten Bente Dalen wrote:

Hva kan jeg bruke isteden for Big boucle’

12.09.2021 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kirsten, Du kan veksle mellom alle garn fra samme garngruppen som Big boucle. God fornøyelse!

16.09.2021 - 08:34

country flag Wke Dao wrote:

Hallo wenn ich den Mantel aus dem DROPS Alpaca Bouclé Garn Stricken möchte steht hier 852 Gr doppelter Faden brauch ich dann 1700 Gramm Garn ?

06.10.2020 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dao, benutzen Sie unseren Garnumrechner, z.B. 1200 g DROPS Big Bouclé können durch 857 g DROPS Alpaca Bouclé ersetzt werden, bew 1 Faden Big Bouclé = 2 Fäden Alpaca Bouclé (die 857 g nicht verdoppeln), aber Maschenprobe beachten - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.10.2020 - 13:08

country flag Thuilliez wrote:

Bonsoir, Pour les demi devant j’ai compris mais comment faire l’encolure pour le dos svp

29.11.2019 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thuilliez, à 115-118-120 cm de hauteur totale, vous rabattez toutes les mailles, mais les 14 mailles centrales sont pour l'encolure dos, et les 13-14-15 m de chaque côté sont pour les épaules, vous pouvez placer un marqueur de part et d'autre des 14 m centrales pour bien repérer l'encolure. Bon tricot!

02.12.2019 - 08:09

country flag Thuilliez wrote:

Bonsoir, Je suis entrain de faire le dos j’ai fini les diminutions pour l’emmanchure comme pour les demi devant. Ma question concerne l’encolure je comprends comment je dois faire. Pouvez-vous m’aider svp.

29.11.2019 - 02:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thuilliez, à 109-112-114 cm de hauteur totale, vous commencez à former l'encolure: rabattez les 4 premières mailles côté encolure, puis tous les rangs à partir de l'encolure, rabattez: 1 x 3 m, 1 x 2 m et 2 x 1 m, il reste 13-14-15 m pour l'épaule. Quand vous tricotez le devant droit, vous rabattez les mailles de l'encolure en début de rang sur l'endroit, quand vous ferez le devant gauche, vous rabattrez ces mailles en début de rang sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

29.11.2019 - 08:37

country flag THUILLIez wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens vers vous car il y a une chose que je ne comprends pas concernant la diminution pour le devant 1m 10 fois toutnles 8 cm pour la taille L si je mesure bien je dépasse les 97cm alors qu’a cette hauteur faut faire la diminution pour l’emmanchure. Il y a t’il un souci dans l’explication ou c’est moi qui me trompe. Dans l’attente. Bien cordialement.

13.11.2019 - 17:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thuilliez, vous diminuez 10 fois tous les 8 cm:, soit: à 20 cm, 28 cm, 36 cm, 44 cm, 52 cm, 60 cm, 68 cm, 76 cm, 84 cm et 92 cm - les diminutions sont terminées à 97 cm. Bon tricot!

14.11.2019 - 09:27

country flag Csiha Krisztina wrote:

A magyar leírás a jobb elejénél hibás, nem szaporítani kell mindkét oldalon, hanem fogyasztani az oldalánál.

07.05.2019 - 22:46

country flag Maria Ernebro wrote:

Tack för hjälpen! Jag ser beskrivningen nu! MVH Maria Ernebro

04.10.2018 - 16:39

country flag Maria Ernebro wrote:

Nej! Det finns ingen beskrivning till bakstycket! Kolla själv! Maria

04.10.2018 - 08:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maria. Instruksjoner på bakstykke ligger altså rett under venstre fremstykke, og ser slik ut: Vänster Framst: Lägg upp och sticka som höger men motsatt. Bakst: Lägg upp 70-76-80 m (inkl 1 kantm i varje sida) på st 6 med Big Bouclé. Sticka 2 v rätst, fortsätt med slätst. När arb mäter 20 cm avm det i varje sida som på framst uppöver = 50-56-60 m. När arb mäter 94-96-97 cm avm det för ärmhål i varje sida som på framst = 40-42-44 m. När arb mäter 115-118-120 cm, maskas alla m av - de mittersta 14-14-14 m = halsöppning. God fornøyelse

04.10.2018 - 08:50