DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Priscilla Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with raglan and lace pattern in ”Air”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-1182
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-021
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 02, wheat

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 6 mm – or size needed to get 12 dtr x 4.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm and 12 dc x 14 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6 pieces in all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch.
Replace first dtr at beg of every dtr row with 4 ch.
Replace first triple tr at beg of every triple tr row with 5 ch.

CROCHET TIP:
If the crochet tension vertically is not high enough switch all dtr with triple tr.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Inc 1 dtr by working 2 dtr in same st.
In size XXL and XXXL it is necessary to inc 2 dtr in same st some places. Work by making 3 dtr in same st.

PATTERN-1:
ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1 dc in front loop of every dtr.
ROW 2 (= RS): Work 1 dtr in back loop of every dc.
Repeat rows 1 to 2 until finished measurements.

PATTERN-2:
ROUND 1: Work 1 dtr in back loop of every dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in back loop of every dtr.
Repeat rounds 1 to 2 until finished measurements.
INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 3 dtr before A.1 on BODY as follows: Work as before until 3 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dtr in each of the next 3 dc.
Inc 3 dtr after A.1 on BODY as follows: Work 2 dtr in each of the next 3 dc after A.1.
Inc 3 dtr before A.1 on SLEEVE as follows: Work 4 dtr in 1 dc before A.1.
Inc 3 dtr after A.1 on SLEEVE as follows: Work 4 dtr in 1st dc after A.1
Inc 2 dtr before A.1 as follows: Work as before until 2 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dtr in each of the next 2 dc.
Inc 2 dtr after A.1 as follows: Work 2 dtr in each of the next 2 dc after A.1.
Inc 1 dtr before A.1 as follows: Work as before until 1 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dtr in dc.
Inc 1 dtr after A.1 as follows: Work 2 dtr in first dc after A.1.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dtr/dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dtr/dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 dc/dtr dec.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

Work A.1 as follows:
ROW 1: Work 3 ch, skip 1 dc, * work 1 dtr in back loop of next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 2 dtr in same st the same way *, skip 3 dc, repeat from *-* 1 time, pull yarn through all 7 sts on hook, 3 ch, skip 1 dc.
ROW 2: Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 ch, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch.
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Work 86-86-90-90-94-94 ch (incl 5 band sts in each side of piece) on hook size 6 mm with Air. Work next row as follows: Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in every ch = 86-86-90-90-94-94 dc. Then work as follows from RS: Work all dtr in back loop of dc, and READ CROCHET TIP. Work 1 dtr in each of the first 5 dc (= band), A.1 - see explanation above - over the next 7 dc, 1 dtr in each of the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-3-3-5-7-9 dtr evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-2 – (= left front piece), A.1 over the next 7 dc, 1 dtr in each of the next 2 dc, A.1 over the next 7 dc (= left sleeve), 1 dtr in each of the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-6-6-10-14-18 dtr evenly (= back piece), A.1 over the next 7 dc, 1 dtr in each of the next 2 dc, A.1 over the next 7 dc, (= right sleeve), 1 dtr in each of the next 4-4-5-5-6-6 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-3-3-5-7-9 dtr evenly, A.1 over the next 7 dc, finish with 1 dtr in each of the last 5 dc (= right front piece). Work PATTERN-1 over dtr and A.1 over A.1 as before. On first row in pattern-1 there are 90-98-102-110-122-130 dc (incl A.1). Repeat pattern-1 and A.1 vertically until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! On next row (= dtr row) inc for raglan on every row from RS (i.e. every row with dtr) on each side of A.1 – READ INCREASE TIP-1 – as follows: Inc 3 dtr on each side of A.1 1 time in total, then inc 2 dtr on each side of A.1 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, then 1 dtr on each side of A.1 1-0-1-0-1-2 times in total (= 170-186-198-214-234-250 sts in total). On next row (= from WS with dc) work as follows: Work all dc in front loop of every dtr. Work 1 dc in each of the first 5 dtr (= band), A.1 as before, 1 dc in each of the next 15-18-20-23-27-30 dtr, work 8 ch, insert 1 marker in 4th ch, skip: A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr + A.1 (= sleeve), work 1 dc in each of the next 44-50-54-60-68-74 dtr, work 8 ch, insert 1 marker in 4th ch, skip: A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr + A.1 (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the next 15-18-20-23-27-30 dtr, A.1 as before, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 5 dtr (= band) = 98-110-118-130-146-158 dc (incl A.1) and 16 ch. Move the markers upwards when working. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
Work next row (= from RS) as follows: Pattern-1 over the first 5 dc (= band), A.1 as before, pattern-1 over the next 90-102-110-122-138-150 sts (i.e. work 1 dtr in every ch under sleeve), A.1 as before, finish with pattern-1 over the last 5 dc (= band). On next row there are 114-126-134-146-162-174 dc on row (incl A.1). Work pattern-1 and A.1 over body as before. When piece measures 6 cm, adjust so that next row is with dtr, inc 1 dtr on each side of each marker in the side (= 4 sts inc), repeat inc every 8 cm 3 more times. On next row with dc there are 130-142-150-162-178-190 dc on row (incl A.1). When piece measures 38-40-39-41-41-40 cm from marker, adjust so that last row is with dc, fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr + A.1. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in the 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, work last round of A.1 (= dc) over A.1, 1 dc in back loop of the next 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr, last round of A.1 over A.1, before working 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 44-46-48-50-52-54 dc. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve, move the marker when working. Then work piece with PATTERN-2 - see explanation above. When sleeve measures 4 cm, dec 1 dc/tr on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 5-4-4-4-4-3 cm 7-8-8-9-9-10 more times = 28-28-30-30-32-32 dc/dtr. Work until piece measures 46-47-45-46-44-42 cm – adjust so that last round is with dc. Work 2 round with 1 dc in back loop of every dc (= 3 round in total with dc at the bottom of sleeve). Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Beg mid front and work as follows from RS: 1 dc in back loop of every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-5-6-6 dc evenly = 82-82-85-85-88-88 dc. Turn piece and work from WS. 1 dc in front loop of every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-5-6-6 dc evenly = 78-78-80-80-82-82 dc. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band. Sew on first button in 2nd dc row from neck (= approx. 2 cm down from neck), then sew them approx. 7 cm apart. Button through dc rows.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 05.10.2016
Correction in INCREASE TIP-1 (Raglan on sleeve)

Diagram

symbols = ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = first row is explained in pattern
symbols = skip 1 dc, * work 1 dtr in back loop of next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 2 dtr in same st the same way *, skip 3 dc, repeat from *-* 1 time, pull yarn through all 7 sts on hook
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag Isabel wrote:

Hola! Alguien podria aclararme cómo seguir las instrucciones? Dios mío, es muy complicado de comprender. No entiendo a qué se refiere dentro de la pechera cuando habla de la manga o de los delanteros… Está bastante mal explicado.

16.01.2024 - 19:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Isabel, puedes preguntarnos si tienes alguna duda en concreto. En el canesú/ la pechera, hace referencias a manga o delantero izquierdo para indicar cada sección a qué parte de la prenda se corresponde. Por ejemplo, en la fila por el LD explicada dice que empiezas trabajando los puntos de la cenefa, después trabajas los puntos más aumentos del delantero izquierdo, después los puntos para la manga izquierda, e.t.c. Los puntos después del término entre paréntesis se corresponden a la siguiente parte.

23.01.2024 - 00:00

country flag Aruna wrote:

Hi there - I have a question regarding the pattern. When making the yoke, this section of the pattern says: "On first row in pattern-1 there are 90-98102-110-122-130 sc (includes A.1). Repeat pattern-1 and A.1 vertically until finished measurements. " What are the finished measurements? Also on the diagram there is a vertical measurement of 7 from the top till the dashed line. What does this represent? Thank you in advance.

12.04.2021 - 01:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aruna, "until finished measurements" means that from that time until you finihse the piece, for the remainder of the piece. On the schemantic drawing, the dotted line (of 7 cm) means the depth of the neckline. Happy Crafting!

12.04.2021 - 04:40

country flag Sine wrote:

Jeg har købt drops Air og vil hækle Priscilla cardigan. Men jeg ser i kommentarer og spg at mange har problemer med denne opskrift. Der nævnes noget om en rettelse i opskriften opdateret 5/10 2016, men hvor finder jeg det ? Jeg klikker på linket “se rettelse og video her” men linket leder ikke nogen steder hen. Hvad gør jeg så ? Hvordan finder jeg det når linket ikke virker ? kh Sine

28.01.2021 - 00:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sine, de rettelser der evt har været er skrevet ind i selve opskriften på nettet. Husk at vi også har lavet en video, så du tydeligt ser hvordan man starter :)

28.01.2021 - 15:37

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hola! Tengo una duda. Los aumentos del raglan deben empezar a partir de terminar A1 una vez o 2 veces. O sea enseguida despues de la primera hilera de p.a.d o despues, no me quedo muy claro. Gracias de antemano!

21.01.2021 - 19:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Claudia! Los aumentos del raglan deben empezar a partir de terminar A1 una vez. Buen trabajo!

25.01.2021 - 18:35

country flag Patricia wrote:

La chaqueta está muy bonita pero creo que deberían revisar el patrón es muy confuso en la parte de los aumentos.

17.09.2020 - 16:25

country flag Esther wrote:

Hallo und vielen Dank für diese tolle Anleitung. Leider tue ich mich etwas schwer damit. Bei der ersten Raglanzunahme heißt es: „ je 3 D-Stb beidseitig von A.1 insgesamt 1 x, dann je 2 D-Stb beidseitig von A.1 insgesamt 3-4-4-5-5-5 x,....“. Mache ich das alles gleichzeitig vor jedem Herzen (Außer Blende)? Dann würde ich in XL ja 26 Maschen vor und nach jedem Herzen zunehmen....

21.01.2020 - 09:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Esther, dieses Video zeigt wie man zuerst 3 D-Stb zunimmt, dann wie man 2 D-Stb und 1 D-Stb zunimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.01.2020 - 10:19

country flag Maria Teresa Barbati wrote:

Modello Priscilla Per quattro volte gli aumenti si intende su quattro righe di maglie alte doppie. Se cosi fosse non riesco ad avere 198 maglie per la taglia L ma bensì 212 a cui aggiungere ancora gli ultimi 10 aumenti Grazie per la risposta Maria Teresa Barbati

31.08.2019 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Teresa, gli aumenti vanno lavorati sulle righe a maglie alte doppie. Buon lavoro!

31.08.2019 - 21:23

country flag Tina wrote:

Hej. Mht. Knaphullet : Jeg forstår ikke, hvordan Knappen skal komme igennem fastmaskerækken? Mener I i stedet at der skal knappes gennem dobbeltstangmaskerne?

28.05.2019 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tina. Det stemmer at knappene skal gjennom fastmaskene, det kan hende du må presse dem gjennom første gangen. Dobbelstavene gir nok et for stort hull. Om du har problemer med å få dem gjennom kan du eventuelt prøve mindre knapper. God fornøyelse

29.05.2019 - 07:18

Renée wrote:

Ik ben echt gek op jullie patronen maar ik vind jullie beschrijvingen niet te doen. In dit patroon is de beschrijving voor de raglan echt niet duidelijk. Er staat letterlijk: Meerder 3 dstk aan ELKE kant van A1. Er wordt nergens beschreven dat de 1e en de laatste A1 niet meetelt. Dit is het 2e patroon van Drops dat ik nu haak maar ook bij de eerste heb ik het haakwerk zó vaak uit moeten halen. Het kan, naar mijn bescheiden mening, veel eenvoudiger.

05.09.2018 - 01:44

country flag Anne-Mette Boel wrote:

Opskriften er meget vanskelig at følge, og man kan ikke regne med størrelserne. Jeg startede med en str. M, måtte trevle op og gå 2 størrelser op (XL) - men den bliver stadig for lille (bruger normalt M). Ærmerne er for trange og den kan ikke lukkes over brystet. Meget frusterende! :( Ærmerne bliver i øvrigt ikke som resten af cardiganen - der en synlig forskel i maskernes udseende, som en anden også påpeger.

12.07.2018 - 10:54