DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Starry Night Jumper

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke and Nordic pattern, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 166-23
DROPS design: Pattern no u-769
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 53, anthracite
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 72, light pearl grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 40, light old pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rounds in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for edge in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 2.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for correct size. Work entire pattern in stocking st.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Inc on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on each side of marker in every transition between sleeves and body as follows: Work until 1 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 98-104-104-106-110-112 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with anthracite.
Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 round with anthracite while inc 2-8-8-18-22-32 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 100-112-112-124-132-144 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 - READ KNITTING TIP. Inc on 4th round as shown in diagram (= 25-28-28-31-33-36 sts inc and 125-140-140-155-165-180 sts on needle). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked (finish after a round marked with arrow for correct size), K 2 rounds with anthracite while inc 3-4-4-5-3-4 sts evenly on 1st round = 128-144-144-160-168-184 sts. Then work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 16-18-18-20-21-23 repetitions of 8 sts). Continue pattern like this and inc as shown in diagram. When diagram A.2 has been worked, there are 256-288-288-320-336-368 sts on needle and piece measures approx. 17-17-17-19-19-19 cm from cast-on edge.
K 1 round with anthracite while inc 8-6-6-10-12-4 sts evenly = 264-294-294-330-348-372 sts. Work next round as follows (with anthracite): Work 75-83-87-99-109-119 sts (= back piece), insert a marker, work the next 57-64-60-66-65-67 sts (= sleeve), insert a marker, work the next 75-83-87-99-109-119 sts (= front piece), insert a marker, work the next 57-64-60-66-65-67 sts (= sleeve), insert a marker.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Then continue pattern in the round according to diagram A.3. After 1 round with pattern in A.3 inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts inc). Repeat inc for raglan every 4th round 3-3-4-3-4-5 times in total - NOTE: Work the inc sts in pattern but always work 1 st on each side of each marker with anthracite.
After inc for raglan there are 288-318-326-354-380-412 sts on round and piece measures approx. 22-22-23-24-25-27 cm from shoulder.
Work next round as follows (continue pattern as before): Work the first 81-89-95-105-117-129 sts (= back piece), slip the next 63-70-68-72-73-77 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts (= under sleeve), work the next 81-89-95-105-117-129 sts (= front piece), slip the next 63-70-68-72-73-77 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts (= under sleeve).

BODY:
= 178-194-210-230-258-282 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts cast on in each side (= 89-97-105-115-129-141 sts between markers on front and back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stocking st in the round with pattern according to diagram A.3 - NOTE: Continue pattern from yoke - work the sts that do not fit the pattern in the sides of body in anthracite. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, dec on each side of both markers – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec in each side every 3-3-3-5-6-6 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 162-178-194-218-246-270 sts - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern in anthracite when dec. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm, finish A.3 and work with anthracite until finished measurements. When piece measures 18-18-19-21-23-23 cm (piece measures approx. 40-40-42-45-48-50 cm from shoulder), inc on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3 times = 178-194-210-230-258-282 sts. When piece measures 34-36-37-38-39-39 cm (2 cm remain before finished measurements, try the jumper and work to desired length), switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work 4 ridges and LOOSELY cast off. Jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work in stocking st in the round with pattern according to diagram A.3 (continue pattern from yoke and work sts that do not fit the pattern mid under sleeve in anthracite). In addition cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts at the end of first round = 71-78-78-82-85-89 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new sts (= mid under sleeve) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
When piece measures 2-3-3-3-3-4 cm, dec on each side of marker – REMEMBER DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 3-2-2-2-2-1½ cm a total of 11-14-14-15-16-17 times = 49-50-50-52-53-55 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-4-6-6-6 cm, finish A.3 and work with anthracite until finished measurements. When piece measures 39-39-39-39-39-37 cm (2 cm remain before finished measurements, try the jumper and work to desired length), switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work 4 ridges and LOOSELY cast off, sleeve measures approx. 41-41-41-41-41-39 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = anthracite
symbols = light old pink
symbols = light pearl grey
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts, on next round K YO twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Sarah Thiessen wrote:

Das kraus gestrickte Bündchen unten klappt sich immer nach außen. Was habe ich da falsch gemacht?

23.02.2022 - 21:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Thiessen, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.02.2022 - 10:23

country flag Ela wrote:

A ja zrobilam rok temu sweter, czapkę, rękawice i skarpety w tym wzorze dla córki jest zachwycona. Dziękuję Ci jesteś wspaniała!

11.08.2021 - 14:38

country flag Marian wrote:

No entiendo cuando hay que hacer los aumentos o cada cuantos puntos, en la vuelta 6 y siguientes

15.07.2021 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Marian, los aumentos están incluidos en el diagrama A.2. En la vuelta 6, el diagrama empieza con 1d, lazada, 6d y otra lazada... En la siguiente vuelta, las lazadas se trabajan retorcidas para evitar que se formen agujeros. Después, se vuelve a aumentar en la 10ª vuelta.

19.07.2021 - 20:23

country flag Miriam Glass wrote:

Beautiful

31.12.2020 - 14:11

country flag Birthe Nielsen wrote:

Mangler der ikke udtagning på række 6 i mønster 2A

24.06.2019 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birthe. Det er 2 kast på omgang 6 i A.2: 1 etter første maske og 1 før siste maske. De er litt vanskelig å se innimmellom tegnene for "koksgrå", men de er der. God fornøyelse

26.06.2019 - 08:04

country flag Else Marit BERG wrote:

Maskeantallet stemmer ikke da a 2 er ferdig hva er galt??

13.02.2018 - 09:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Else Marie, det er svært at se hvor det er gået galt. Du skal have 16 masker i hver rapport når du har afsluttet A.2. Sæt gerne et mærke mellem hver rapport, så du er sikker på at få alle udtagninger med. God fornøjelse!

21.02.2018 - 15:38

country flag Hanne Gunnertoft wrote:

Overvejer at bruge hue mønstret på nederste 2/3 af blusen. Kan man det?

31.01.2017 - 01:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne. Det lyder som det kunne blive rigtig flot, saa det tror jeg sagtens du kan. Du skal sörge for at faa placeret mönstret saa det er paent (centreret) og strik eventuelt en pröve med mönster saa du har en strikkefasthed - mönsterstrik kan nogen gange traekke lidt mere sammen end ren glat.

31.01.2017 - 15:29

country flag Anita Kastrup østerberg wrote:

Når der tages ud (første gang i A2) er det så: 1r slå om 6 r slå om 2 r slå om 6 r osv pinden rundt?

19.01.2016 - 17:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Ja det är riktigt. Lycka till!

26.01.2016 - 14:35

country flag Ritva Piili wrote:

Neuloin kyseisen mallin, ohje ihan ok! mutta lankojen menekissä huomauttaisin ettei vaaleaa helmiäisharmaata sävyä kulu koossa "S" kuin vajaa 100gr. Terveisin Ritva Piili

05.01.2016 - 11:54

country flag Coyane wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. Je me suis mal exprimée. Je tricote a l'endroit pour avoir du jersey mais le rendu est inversé : il y du point mousse sur l'endroit des manches (partie visible extérieure), le point Jersey est dans l'intérieur des manches ???) Merci pour votre aide

04.11.2015 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Coyane, quand on tricote du jersey en rond (sur doubles pointes ou circulaire), on tricote tous les tours à l'endroit - cf vidéo ci-dessous. Pour du jersey envers, on tricoterait tous les tours à l'envers, pour la bordure point mousse du bas de la manche, c'est 1 tour end/1 tour env pour 1 côte mousse (comme indiqué ce matin). J'espère avoir bien compris votre question. Bon tricot!

04.11.2015 - 14:39