DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 162-31
DROPS design: Pattern no l-136
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: Approx. 54/56 – 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio
100-100 g colour no 02, off white
100-150 g colour no 21, dark blue
Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100-150 g colour no 17, off white
150-150 g colour no 103, dark wash

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 16 tr x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 1.75 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr at beg of every tr round with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

STRIPES-1:
ROUND 1-3: Dark blue/dark wash
ROUND 4-6: Off white
ROUND 7-9: Dark blue/dark wash
ROUND 10: Off white
S/M is done, continue with 1 round dark blue/dark wash in L/XL.

STRIPES-2:
ROUND 1-4: Dark blue/dark wash
ROUND 5-7: Off white
ROUND 8-11: Dark blue/dark wash
ROUND 12-14: Off white
ROUND 15-18: Dark blue/dark wash
ROUND 19-20: Off white
ROUND 21-22: Dark blue/dark wash
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HAT:
Crochet 5-5 ch on hook size 4.5 mm with dark blue/dark wash and form a ring with 1 sl st.
ROUND 1: Work 12-12 tr in ring – read CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2: Work 2 tr in every tr = 24-24 tr.
ROUND 3: Work * 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in the next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36-36 tr.
ROUND 4: Work * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48-48 tr. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 5: Work * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60-60 tr.
ROUND 6: Work * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72-72 tr.
S/M is now done, continue as follows in M/L:
ROUND 7: Work * 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 5 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84 tr.
BOTH SIZES:
Continue with 1 tr in every tr, AT THE SAME TIME work STRIPES-1 - see explanation above. When stripes-1 has been done and piece measures approx. 17-18 cm, continue as follows:

Now work a brim in dc and STRIPES-2 - see explanation above.
ROUND 1: Work * 2 dc in first tr, 1 dc in each of the next 11-14 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 78-90 dc.
ROUND 2: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 12-15 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 84-96 dc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 dc in each dc = 84-96 dc.
ROUND 4: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 13-16 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 90-102 dc.
ROUND 5: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 14-17 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 96-108 dc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in every dc = 96-108 dc.
ROUND 7: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15-18 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 102-114 dc.
ROUND 8: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 16-19 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 108-120 dc.
ROUND 9: Work 1 dc in every dc = 108-120 dc.
ROUND 10: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 17-20 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 114-126 dc.
ROUND 11: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 18-21 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 120-132 dc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 dc in every dc = 120-132 dc.
ROUND 13: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 19-22 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 126-138 dc.
ROUND 14: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 20-23 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 132-144 dc.
ROUND 15: Work 1 dc in every dc = 132-144 dc.
ROUND 16: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 21-24 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 138-150 dc.
ROUND 17: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 22-25 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 144-156 dc.
ROUND 18: Work 1 dc in every dc = 144-156 dc.
ROUND 19: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 23-26 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 150-162 dc.
ROUND 20: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 24-27 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 156-168 dc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 dc in every dc = 156-168 dc.
ROUND 22: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 25-28 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 162-174 dc.
Brim measures approx. 12 cm.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres each with off white. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread the string in last stripe before brim. Thread the string under a tr for approx. every 10 tr on this round. Tie a double knot or a bow.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Elena wrote:

No entiendo cómo se coloca el cordón en el modelo de sombrero SUMMER STRIPES. Es para atarse el sombrero o es como adorno?

18.12.2023 - 18:56

country flag Dawn wrote:

On the pattern it says ch 5-5 and row 1 12-12 dc. Should I be using 2 strands of drops Paris ? I have purchased recommended amount but there seems to be lots of yarn. Thanks

30.06.2023 - 06:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dawn, remember to check and keep your tension, you should have 12 tr (UK-English) / dc (US-English) and 9 rows = 10 x10 cm. Work with only 1 strand Paris. Happy crocheting!

30.06.2023 - 07:59

country flag Marian wrote:

Beginnende haakster ben ik, wat wordt hiermee bedoeld: INFORMATIE VOOR HET HAKEN: Vervang het eerste stk aan het begin van elke stk-toer door 3 l. Eindig elke toer met 1 hv in de l aan het begin van de toer. Ik snap 3 I niet! Dank alvast, groetjes Marian

04.04.2021 - 18:02

country flag Karen Thomas wrote:

I am a little uncertain about the brim. I need to go back and alter my hat a little as it is a bit too deep - I had to alter my crochet hook size to get the tension in stitches but obviously my rows were out. The brim seems to flop rather a lot? So I was wondering if, when I re-do it, whether I should maybe do htr instead of tr and maybe drop a hook size when I do the brim, as well as changing to a dc? Any thoughts more than welcome. I am very new to crochet so not very competent!!

22.10.2016 - 12:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Thomas, remember to always check and keep correct tension, you can also use a smaller crochet hook to get a firmer texture, or/and lightly starch the brim a bit to get it be as you would like it to. Happy crocheting!

24.10.2016 - 09:34

country flag Joanna wrote:

Bardzo dziękuję za porady. Kapelusz jest już gotowy i jestem zachwycona wzorem - jest łatwy do wykonania, idealny dla początkujących, a uzyskany kapelusz - naprawdę ładny.

04.07.2016 - 09:18

country flag Joanna wrote:

Mam jeszcze dwa pytania, tym razem dotyczące sznureczka. W jakim celu się go wstawia? I czy należy go wstawiać w taki sposób, aby większa jego część była z góry czy z dołu? Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź i pozdrawiam serdecznie :)

28.06.2016 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Sznureczek jest po to aby lepiej dopasować kapelusz, pełni też funkcję dekoracyjną. Zacząć przeciągać od środka tyłu, ponad rondem i tam zakończymy. Wiązanie jest z tyłu. Pozdrawiamy

28.06.2016 - 21:54

country flag Joanna wrote:

I repeat my question in a more popular language ;-) : 72 dc in STRIPES1 part makes about 45 cm not 54 cm. Isn't the hat going to be too small if I follow the pattern? TIA for the answer.

08.06.2016 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

We wzorze w tym miejscu nie ma oczek ścisłych (dc), ale słupki (tr) i robótka będzie bardziej rozciągliwa. Dzięki temu kapelusz nie będzie spadał i nie będzie również za mały. POWODZENIA

08.06.2016 - 12:46

country flag Joanna wrote:

Witam :). Mam wątpliwości co do części przerabianej jako PASKI 1 - przecież 72 słupki przerabiane tak, jak przy wykonywaniu próbki dadzą mi około 45 cm obwodu, a nie 54-56 cm... Czy kapelusz przerobiony dokładnie wg opisu nie wyjdzie za mały? Pozdrawiam i z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź. Joanna

07.06.2016 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Robótka przerabiana słupkami będzie bardziej rozciągliwa. Dzięki temu kapelusz nie będzie spadał. POWODZENIA

08.06.2016 - 12:47

country flag Karin wrote:

Ik zie net dat Yulla Olsen hetzelfde commentaar had. Ik moest overigens net als zij haak 3,5 gebruiken. Misschien moeten jullie het commentaar wat serieuzer nemen.

04.06.2016 - 19:58

country flag Karin Robbers wrote:

Er staat dat ik van de lichte kleur drie bollen Paris nodig heb. Ik heb echter maar anderhalve bol gebruikt en ja de stekenverhouding klopte.

04.06.2016 - 19:53